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I plan to solder on small extensions, and reinsert the wires back into the adapter with new connectors. Lots of electrical tape will be used I'm sure. I will drop a line letting you know if this works.
Either the drain is blocked (I had that issue on my '99), or the rubber strip under the plastic piece below the wipers has gotten out of position. Hopefully that is all it is, and not a leaky roof.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rHbrsvzxWc
@gear kat - how much would you charge for the repair? I'm not in your area, but just so I have an idea. What would I call it to ask my own mechanic? thanks for your help
But if you bring up the fact that the green and purple wires might have become separated under the console, you are definitely going to sound like you know what you are talking about. Save this tidbit though if the mechanic comes back saying you need a new wire harness or something that will mean a bigger bill.
I've been running into this problem for probably about a year. Usually, the key eventually comes out after I cycle the shifter through Park-Reverse-Neutrial-4 and back. Yesterday was the first time that the key just wouldn't come out.
After a lot of Internet research, I finally came across a video that was straightforward and easy to do:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYBD4_Bm_8g&NR=1
this appears to solve the problem (for now). I'll keep everyone posted if things change...
First of all, I'm not the "that guy" who posted the video. I'm simply a satisfied customer who spent hours this morning trying to find a solution online (to no avail) until stumbling across that fellow's youtube video.
Secondly, you're probably right in a sense that the proposed solution is a "workaround". I don't doubt that. But for myself, and many others I'm sure, this workaround is just what I was looking for - a simple and inexpensive corrective action. Before doing online research, I was quoted by a local dealer over the phone that repairing this issue by them would be ~$800 or more.
Thirdly, I read your unnecessarily disparaging comments towards the owner of his video in his youtube comments section. I was very confused as to why you would try to discredit a fast, cheap, and effective solution - but then I realized why. I've read some of your comments and came to the realization that you are trying to sell your business. You don't want people to fix their car problems by using a cheap and easy solution; no, you want people to buy YOUR products and profit from others' hardship. You're not looking out for others; you're looking out for YOURSELF. Shame on you.
There are ways to be profitable and run a small business without ripping off the American consumer. It's called being in a win-win relationship; perhaps you should invest some time researching the concept.
Sorry to all who has to suffer through reading through gearcat and my quibble. Surely, you didn't come to this thread to see two people argue online.
I just felt the responsibility to expose gearcat for who/what he truly is - a coward and a fraud.
The mechanic said it was going to be ~$800 because they don't want to take the time for a $40 dollar repair. They'd rather replace your ignition coil, wire harness, and whatever else they can think of to justify whatever price they quote.
By the way, my research on the web shows that the $800 repair you mention often doesn't work, leaving you $800 out and still dependent on a work around. My fix was done 4 or 5 weeks ago now, and my car is working just fine. I have sold some of the L-shaped terminals on my ebay store to other do-it-yourself types and I have not had any negative feedback, or request for further information about how I did the repair. Nor has anyone tried to return the part I supplied. I can only conclude silence is golden. Here again is my YouTube video with a summary of how I did the repair.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rHbrsvzxWc
I have been talking to alot of mechanics that seem to not listen to me as I am a women and I guess most women probably know nothing about cars but I have a family full of uncles and none of them are around me right now or else they would be fixing it for me. I probably would be able to do it I am pretty handy but I would need step by step visuals to see what I am supposed to be doing. But now if I drop my car off for an oil change or whatever I sound crazy explaining to them how to take my key out of the ignition and I'm afraid they won't be able to take the key out and leave the doors unlocked.
Do you know what I can do for dirty gas? I'm 100% sure I received bad gas from the station, my car is not 100% and I sometimes have problems with it starting but it will but not the first few times like it's not getting gas, changed fuel filter put a high octane in and a gasoline antifreeze/water remover but it still doesn't sound 100% have any ideas what i should do.
I finally followed somebody else's advice and stuffed a straw into the hole. I lost the cover that I had to pop off, so I used a piece of duct tape to hold it in place. No problems so far!
Good luck to everyone!
1. Open your central console and remove the insert where you keep your stuff (for me its change and gas receipts)
2. Locate a small rectangular hole on the front of the console just above the cup holder
3. Insert screwdriver into this opening
4. Gently but forcefully pry up on the plastic cover, it should 'pop' off
5. on a flat surface, with the car off, move the shifter to the neutral position
6. slide/pull the console cover up, gently pushing up on the seat heater insert from underneath
7. look under the shifter to where the now revealed wire harness is running from the area under the radio to the area under the shifter
8. you should see 6 or 7 wires, the wires you are interested in are green and purple. if they have come loose they will be apart from the white terminal to where the rest of the wires are attached.
I have a unedited version of my repair where all of this is shown, but most of the video is me cursing, walking back and forth, or just being silent as I work. Also I was just recovering from laryngitis when I made the video so I sound rather disgusting. If you need more of a visual for these steps I can make another video showing how I get the console cover off. It should run all of 45 seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYBD4_Bm_8g.
There are other videos on how fix the problem permently. You really see the work being done. What a stress reliever.
To check if it is the green and purple wire all you need is 1 screw driver and a few minutes.
1. Remove the insert in the center console
2. Find the rectangular hole in the front of the center console just above the cup holder
3. Insert screw driver and leverage upward gently but forcefully to pop off the console cover
4. Shift the front end of the console in front of the shifter and look for a bunch of wires taped together running out from under the radio area to the shifter.
5. Follow the green and purple wire, pull on them gently, pulling away from the shifter.
6. If you feel no resistance and see the end of the cables, therein is your problem, if you feel resistance, quit pulling and look into getting your ignition switch replaced.
Would you explain in detail how this problem is caused by the ignition switch and whether this is the only item needing replacement?
I have this problem on my 97 GTP and have checked the harness (it's tight) but have read of an actuator switch, possible gear shift solenoid etc.... so would like to read your take on the ig switch.
I look forward to your reply.
I posted to this thread earlier with a link to a YouTube video showing a good workaround.
I've think I've now found a "permament" solution (knock on wood). Here's what I did:
I removed the cover the bottom cover behind the steering wheel (the cover that houses the igntion system). I noticed that the wiring that hooks up to the cylinder behind the ignition was a little loose. I simply hooked the wires up more tightly and (voila!) I haven't had any stuck key issues since.
I realize that this fixed my problem, but may not help everyone elses, but I hope this helps at least one person out there!
So everyone keeps talking about this little hole on the bottom the steering column almost directly under where the key goes in. Mine is plugged with something, maybe I can pry it open with screw driver, however, I discovered an easier trick FOR MY MODEL/YEAR.
1. Locate that little "hole" or "hole with a plug in it" on the steering column right under where the key goes in.
2. Tilt the wheel so it's up as far as it will go.
3. At the spot where it hinges stick your finger up into the elbow or the hinge and feel for that little plastic hole/plug. As soon as you touch the plug it will pop right out and drop to the floor HOWEVER directly above this plug is the release button so once you feel the plug simply lift your finger up lightly push on the button.
4. You should hear the ignition click/release, key will come right out. No more aggravation!! No need to stick a small straw or toothpick up the hole, finger works great and only takes 2 seconds.
Maybe someday I'll pull the shifter column/console apart and look for that loose wire as I sort of fear it could lead to something worse but for now this works great, been doing it for 2 months.