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Comments
Seems to me that less moving parts equals less cost, and from what I have read, that theory appears to be true. Can you cite any evidence to qualify the claim?
I somewhat agree on the reliability issue. But, to be fair, seems that Toyota has been having far more auto trans serviceability issues than Nissan has been having with CVT's.
Short term reliability seems to be fine now but we're still not sure about 6-10 years out. And there is still a significant torque limit.
Now, I'm not saying that all of those people that complain about the new Accord's gas mileage are idiots. I'm sure their findings are grounded in a fair deal of driving and personal research. People just need to realize that it's a larger car, a higher horsepower engine, and Honda tuned it to be a fun car to drive. Naturally, that's going to make people want to drive it harder. I think that would have an effect on certain people's opinion about the car's fuel efficiency.
Not really...I was comparing apples to apples. Number of units to number of units.
In Nissan's case, its more than a few thousand...the vast majority of Altima's come with CVTs.
But, I agree if you are referring to a few units .vs. many units.
My first Mazda6 is on a truck headed to my dealer as we speak. It's an s GT in Performance White. I should have this car early next week. I will check back once I give it a test drive!
For the bigger cars, Camry and Sonata have the advantage in the interior noise and ride smoothness.
I figure my mileage the real way... or the old fashioned way. :shades:
I also have a trip computer with my Navi unit and the two are always pretty close either way.
(lol, kdshapiro)
More details here: Honda Accord Real World MPG
If I don't dump it, it will get shocks and springs ($650) and tires and wheels ($800) as well as a trailer hitch ($125+50) for the bike rack. It would also get a leather wheel or leather wrapped wheel or whatnot as the generic vinyl wheel feels, eh, bad. Oh, and it needs some way to connect an iPod.
It is a great family car and holds baby seats very well and has room to sit next to the rear facing infant seat. It gets great mileage, my worst tank was 30.4 (although Ms LEB got 24 on a tank). In 15k I have spent $20 on maintenance (tire rotation).
So I am thinking I will see what the new Mazda6 looks like, see what deals they have on the outgoing Fusion SEL 5 speed manual or its Mercury sibling, or try to find a previously loved MazdaSpeed6 (the lead idea). I am concerned I am crazy for giving up 30+ mpg on low grade to get 24-27 on super high grade, but having a fun ride might make up for it (in addition to the $1500 worth of stuff the Accord would need that the MS6 wouldn't - suspension tires and wheels, leather wheel/shifter).
The V6 does, it gets 215/50R17 while the the 4cyl gets somewhat neutered 205/60R16 (the issue is more with the aspect ratio of 60 than the tire diameter of 16, there are great 205/55R16 performance tires available but 205/60 is pretty lacking).
I highly doubt that, unless the Fusion also had special suspension bits and tires/wheels.
Yeah, the manual transmission FuLans are typically either a beer can (NO options) or highline SELs with appearance package (big tires and wheels). And then I would get SYNC.
i measure fill up to fill up.
some zero out their trip computer and check it after a few miles, and say i'm getting xyz mpg.
Nothing wrong with that as long as you disclose that's what you're doing.
I reset mine often to measure my 11 mile, 25 minute daily commute. I get anywhere from 18 mpg to 24 mpg depending on traffic and stop lights (and weather). Overall I average around 20 mpg in my "city" driving. But you can't compare one person's city driving to another - too many variables.
You can also use it to measure mpg on the highway at different speeds. e.g. in our new Edge I get 25 mpg running 60-65 and 23 running 75-80. Average is 24.
My first shipment of 2009 Mazda6's arrived this afternoon. Since they won't be PDI'ed until tomorrow morning, I can't fully test drive them yet. However, I did take a little spin, and got to play around the cabin. Here are my first impressions.
Build quality is fantastic. Plenty of soft to the touch materials and great build quality. Placement of controls is very user friendly, and if you currently drive a Mazda6, it's not much of a transition to figure out how the new 6 works.
Interior space is leaps and bounds over the the first gen. I am 6'3" and I had 3-4 inches of leg room between my knees and the driver seat, with the drivers seat in a position that I would be comfortable driving in. The seats are very comfortable, and the cloth and leather surfaces do not seem cheap. The stereo controls and HVAC controls are also of good quality and feel sturdy. Overall, the car felt very very solid.
The 3.7L V6 and all transmission are built in Japan, not in the U.S like many thought. The 2.5L is built in Mexico like the previous 2.3L
Overall, the car really does not look that big. The Accord, Camry and Altima LOOK much much bigger. The style really hides what size the Mazda6 does have.
Once I can take a full test drive, tomorrow morning, I will fill you in and see if the auto journalists were right about this car.
Your comments about the legroom have me excited, at 6'6" I need all the legroom I can get. Did you drive one with a sunroof and how is the headroom?
I always fill my tank and I calculate mileage based on the whole tank.
I always fill my tank and I calculate mileage based on the whole tank.
How can you calculate using the whole tank capacity, unless you run it dry? I think dividing miles traveled by gallons burned (between fill ups) would be easier. :confuse:
No, it's not obvious. Not with the posts I see on these forums. Some people obviously don't know how to calculate mileage.
I check my mileage with every fill up. I've never run the tank dry... yet.
I didn't really look at who the poster was.
I check my mileage with every fill up. I've never run the tank dry... yet.
Is it really necessary to check the mileage that often? I check my mileage once or twice every six months, just to make sure the engine is running as efficiently as it should. But every fill-up? Are you a hyper-miler? :surprise:
I wasn't going to use that word, but I do think some are "obsessed" with mileage. I check the mileage every now and then, just to make sure it hasn't dropped considerably. I can say I get roughly 20-23mpg with daily in-town driving, and I can get 30 on the highway, if there's not much traffic. I do some things to save gas, like coasting to a red light, not tailgating, and not taking off like a "bat out of hell", but that's as much about saving my brake shoes, drive line, and engine, as it is about saving gas.
Seriously. I hear that assertion all the time--that fuel economy numbers calculated by hand, based on different pumps (each with its own idiosyncrocies), are more accurate, or "reliable", than the numbers from a computer. I've compared the two several times myself, and the difference is very small--small enough that I have no idea whether the error is with the computer, or with variations in the pumps used. I do know that, depending on the pump, I can put up to 2 gallons more (or less) into my tank before auto-shutoff. On a 14-gallon tank, that is a lot of room for error.
So... how about some proof?
Well, I don't know about Pat's vehicle but on mine I always compare the computer mpg readout with a calculator, trip odometer and the gas pump receipt. My manual calculations have always shown it to be 1.5-2 mpg higher than the computer display.
I reset the computer after each fill-up. I suppose I could go a month without resetting anything if I saved all of my receipts and see how close the two readings are then. I don't like doing it that way because if I use one tankful at a significantly lower mpg average than usual I might forget that I did a lot of stop-and-go city driving some week earlier in the month and instead think that something was wrong with the car.
Backy, I told you how I calculate my mileage. Obviously it is not precise. I have no reason nor need to prove a thing. Sorry I misunderstood the intent of your post, for some reason I thought you were being sarcastic. My mistake.
But I was serious about asking for some proof (if not by you, then by someone else and probably in a different discussion) that FE calculated by a trip computer is significantly less reliable/accurate than FE calculated manually. Maybe some organization has actually studied that question before. Or, maybe fodder for a future Edmunds.com report?
There were two absolutes with regards with gas mileage. Heavy stop and go driving lowered the mpg while highway driving at a steady cruising speed increased mpg. Above that, after a while I really didn't care about the mileage because it was a function of traffic and my foot. It is what it is.
Given the mileage discussion, you would probably have been better off with the windows up and the AC on at highway speeds. At lower speeds, or if you are driving a 90s F150, I don't think it makes a difference.
Same here. I don't really need to know what the outside air temp is to be able to operate my car but it's nice to have. The same goes for the digital compass. Heck, I have a GPS nav map screen if I really want to know what direction I'm going. The NE, SW, etc., readout is still handy.
I'm one of those drivers who occasionally cycles through the display just to see what the individual air pressure is on each wheel as I drive along. Gadgets all the way.
I don't wonder how head-on collisions happen. :sick: One of "those" drivers.
That's how we do the airbag check. :P
I'm not a hypermiler but I admit to a certain obsession with mileage. I enjoy keeping track of it. I'm a data freak.
I also like the outside temp gauge. And the clock. Hey, maybe my next car will have a rain gauge!! :P
I think there are many of us that keep records in a "car record" booklet for either our own record or for IRS (just in case) as needed. Then it is obvious not only what the mileage is per refill, but also whether or not things are holding their own, or getting better or worse. The most accurate way of determining the MPG is by checking it over a longer mileage. Personally I not only check this way, but also note the mileage on each page of the record book, reflecting the page mpg, and the mpg from the 1st tank recorded, (ie, from the dealer, as new). MPG will always vary slightly from tank to tank, but over the longer periods the average will be evident. Also, when on road trips, my record book reflects the hwy mpg too. For me, this is the most accurate reflection of the vehicles MPG.
van
van
My best friend has an '04 BMW 330i and he has mentioned that his averages are signifiantly off from his own calculations. The BMW actually reports LOWER numbers than he does based on mileage between fillups divided by number of gallons required to refill the tank. I've even checked his math.
The 'Average MPG' and 'Remaining Miles' are the only two items that are useful, in my opinion. The average MPH is depressing because it reminds me how often I sit in traffic and the 'Current MPG' is totally useless because it's all over the map. Going downhill with my foot off the gas, it shows 99.9 and on the highway at 75mph, with cruise set on level ground, it still fluctuates from 23 to 32 mpg which tells me very little.