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Im wondering since the truck has already been lowered do i need to find shocks that are a smaller size (then stock length) this way the truck will still sit 4" low when air shocks are empty
(If any of this makes no sense I'm sorry i am a beginner in the automotive field)
Any and all suggestions and comments appreciated
Anyone needing shocks, compressors or anything related to the Autoride/Load Leveling systems should check them out. They have stuff for numerous makes and models of cars.
BTW, the rough grinding sound that you mentioned may not be the shock, could be the control-arm bushing(s)...
Thanks..
Of course no one sell just that part, but before you buy a new compressor for a $10 coil here's what you need to check. To make it easier, It I took the blue and white wire out of the connector so I could just handle the solenoid. Use a utility knife and cut the expoxy of the top of the plate, Place the solenoid into a vise just so the vice is holdig that top plate. I put a small screwdriver between the two ears that project up on both side and slightly tapped the metal shroud out. Once out the you will see the plunger and spring in the center. The coil is wrapped in a blue tape remove the tape and expose the terminals where the 12V is supplied. The coil is wound with a hair width wire that on mine was broken off from the terminal. I resolder the wire, bench tested the coil by giving it 12V, took a paper clip inserted inside the coil and it snapped to the coil telling me the magnetic field was working.
As they say, reverse the steps to put it back together, I just used a good expoxy to seal the top again.
Put the system back in and every is running fine.
Sorry for the long post but this took a total time of about 30 minutes to test and fix so I hope it saves someone else a couple hundred bucks too.
Do I have to replace all 4 shocks at the same time?
Is there any special installation requirements i most follow prior to installation?
Once i have replaced them is there anything I else i must do?
thanks for your help
Does this mean the the built in auto-dampening system is disabled???
I do have to say that I am still receiving the "Error Message" even after doing this. I am working through the issues with Adam Arnott currently. I only asked for his help late Friday and he has responded quickly on Saturday but me being a dumb*&% I forgot to tell him what I was installing them on, so I am sure I will hear from him shortly. I will keep you posted once the message goes away.
My thoughts on the shocks, I have 135000 miles, and the cost savings over the auto dampening was not that important to me. If you got the cash and want to spend it go for the direct replacements. I still have a kid in college!! That is why I do not have a new truck yet!! Got one out & One to Go!! $26K savings a year should buy me a nice new somthing in 2 years.
Right behind the rear Driver's side wheel you will see the compressor housed in a small compartment protected by a flexible rubber shield. Remove the plastic push bolts and drop that down.
There are three torx screws holding the compressor in place. Remove those, the one also has the ground wire attached to it for the compressor. Once you remove those the compressor can be wiggled down, if they haven't dropped out yet they will, there are three spacers, one for each screw, you will also see a black tube about 3/8" dia. attached to the bottom of the exhaust solenoid, just pull that off. Then there will be another black connector with a wire snap ring on the back side of the unit , rotate that wire ring 90 degrees and pop that connector off. The last thing to disconnect is the main electrical connector, if you look at it there is a push button that need to be depressed and then the connector slides apart. This is the hardest thing to do since is almost a one handed operation.
That's it, the compressor should be out.
To put it back in and to make things a little easier, I loosened the "Click" connector that holds the 3/8 tubing, then you can get a little more play in the line to make reinstalling it easier, you will see what I mean once the compressor is out.
TIP: The connector with the wire snap ring can also be disconnected if your looking at the rear tire like you are going to change it, you can acutally see this connector from that position, and can easily reach in an disconnect the tube.
To reinstall I put the 3/8 tubing on first, then the connector with the snap ring and then the main electrical connector. after the compressor is back in you can reach around and take up the slack in that rubber tubing and "Click" the snap back together. Then just screw the 3 screws back in with the black spacers, don't forget the ground wire and your done.
No programming involved, there are no computer chips, modules or anything that needs programming. The guy that told you this is an idiot and if I had to I would find a reputable mechanic form now on.
You can also save some money by going to Arnot Industries, they sell the compressor for $179 shipped but you will have to use your own exhaust chamber.
I would also bench test the compressor with 12 V (Hook 12 V to the Red wire and ground to the black inside the connector) if it fires up and runs I would look at my previous post on how to check the exhaust solenoid (Ohm out the Blue & white wire in the connector, if you do not get a constant reading or it flucuates, it's the problem) which is the problems most of the time. You can save yourself a few hundred bucks.
I hope this helps.
I did want put out a caveat for anyone that might be considering ordering parts from GMPARTSDIRECT.COM. Do your own research and look on the web for other reviews, but may find a purchase as a risky transaction. Ordinarily, I could get Arnott to send shocks for about $12 from Florida to Northern Virginia, but GMPARTSDIRECT.COM wanted to charge me $173 for Shipping and Handling. They don't specify how they are shipping and on their website the FAQs say that the difference pays for their staffing costs and the website cost. Isn't that part of their overhead that should be included in their base pricing? Sure it is. This is IMO may be questionably unethical and I hope that the state of North Carolina and/or other organizations call them on this. Due to a lot of the less than favorable blogs and reviews, I elected to go with my local dealer who offered a reasonable discount on this large purchase. GMpartsdirect.com has a very strict policy on returns. (forgitaboutit!). :mad: I also have a policy of never purchasing from any website that does not clearly have a physical address and telephone number. You cannot call these folks and there's no reasonable guarantee as to when you may receive your parts. Caveat Emptor folks.
Please refer to a previous post ( June 9th) I did on how to repair it easily, I also wrote another way to test the exhaust solenoid in that post which is by jumpering across the Blue & White wires, After you jumper and turn the truck on and the compressor starts that confirms the solenoid is bad.
The things that control the auto leveling are:
Compressor
Exhaust Solenoid (On Compressor)
Pressure Switch (on compressor with 3 wires)
Level Sensor at each wheel ( disconnect and rotate the arm and you should hear a faint beep to tell you they are working.
ESC-Electronic Suspension Control Module (Located inside the passenger side rear panel inside the truck) I believe this hardy every fail since there is very little information anywhere on the web about this thing but if it does it's about $900.00 at the dealer.
ALC Compressor relay (Located outside the fuse box compartment, engine side in a huge cable of wires-Grey. This can be bench tested.
3 Fuses:
RTD Fuse 30A;
IGN Fuse 3A;
STUD #1 Fuse 40A.
Good Luck.
Hmmm.. if the compressor runs when jumpered but the wires (Exhaust solenoid) were OK too I am wondering does it run now with no jumper?
I would also make sure that the connection through the connector is good when connected by checking the continuity.
If it's neither one of those, there is a small orange O ring at the bottom of the plunger is that still on there?
If it ohms out ok, continuity is good throught the connector and still does not work unnless it jumpered then I'm stumped,
My first mistake: hearing a small leak, and doing nothing. I thought "Oh Well, the Compressor just has to run a little more"...
Second mistake: I suspect too much weight loaded. If you look at ratings and weigh your unit, you'll find too much weight is pretty easy.
End Result of mistakes: bad shocks and a bad compressor;
Before I found this forum, I read on line that others chose to replace the autoride with regular shocks. But I wanted to keep the air version. Arnott of Florida looked good - so I invested $600 in two shocks & a compressor. I am not a mechanic, but how hard could it be. It went well. Not knowing the compressor could come out by itself, I took out the whole bracket off the frame. Oh well - that was OK for a first time. The two torsque screws came off. The third philips screw was rusted solid. Drilled it out, not knowing what I'd do then...but then I see Arnott actually had that one bolt in their package. Guessing that one philips head bolt was well known to be an issue. The drier rebuild kit with the new Arnott compressor was very easy. Wish Arnott included 2 new torques bolts to go through the supplied rubber mounts, as one of my originals was locked tight to the original bushing. Had to improvise and find my own bolt. With everything in and attached, I turned the key - - - and nothing. I heard a click at the compressor, but no running compressor. Called Arnott for technical help. They asked if I bench tested the compressor just to be sure (they mentioned they did it before shipping). Now I wish I had pre-tested the compressor. Took out the compressor (but not the whole bracket), tested direct to 12 volt battery and it worked fine. Back in it went. I was almost ready to drop it at the dealer for their analysis of the electrical. But here, in this forum, I read to check a few fuses. First fuse checked was RTD (30A) in the engine compartment for the ride. It was OK. Second fuse checked was 40A STUD also in the engine fuse compartment . . . . and it was blown. Replaced it for $4 and heard the sweet sound of a new compressor. Sorry for the long post - - - - but THANK YOU.
Thanks for all the info. I have an '02 Denali XL with 82k miles (original owner family vacation vehicle so not much use). For the past several months, the compressor runs for about 30-seconds when the vehicle is started and intermittently while the vehicle is running (with no change in the weight loaded). I've also noticed poor handling on corners (especially when there is weight in the vehicle). I figured some time ago that there was a leak in the system but have been unable to determine where. I finally gave up and to it to a dealer and they diagnosed a need for a new compressor ($700) b/c the 'exhaust valve' on the current compressor was stuck open.
It looks like the Arnott compressor is the way to go for $189, but is there a chance the current problem with the exhaust valve can be fixed and avoid the new compressor?
I'm just not sure if the exhaust solenoid issue in your post is the same 'exhaust valve' issue referenced by the dealer. thanks for any help!
I'll pull the compressor tomorrow (I assume it can't hurt to remove it and still drive the truck since it really can't be doing much now with the exhaust valve stuck open). Once I have it out (which sounds like a pretty fast process), I'll do some checking/testing on the bench and let you know what I find. Worst case, I'll place an order with Arnott for a new pump (I'll likely be ordering their shocks anyway).
I'll keep you posted.
I have to say I'm still glad I pulled it b/c the dealer was wrong (but so was I as I had the same thought as the dealer). I ohmed the blue & white wires to the solenoid and got a constant reading of 21.6 so I decided not to pull apart the solenoid just yet.
I plugged the unit back into the truck harness and powered it up. It kicked on for about 6 seconds and shut off (usual startup). However, after a lot of testing, I found the air leak was at the point where the air dryer canister connects into the compressor. I removed the one bolt holding the canister in place and found a small o-ring that look fine. Mostly, it seems to me there is no way the dryer canister can fit tightly to the compressor using only the one lower bolt. It seems to me there should be another fastner somewhere (possibly at the insertion point) in order to keep this connection tight given the amount of air pressure that builds in the system). So I think I've lost a fitting somewhere but GMC says there are no individual parts available.
I tried holding the dryer canister tight to the compressor (along with the single screw in place) and air did built but in under 10 seconds a big burst of air (and some white dust) shot out of the connection around my hands. After that, I could see the oring was no longer correctly in place.
There is a thin bracket along one side of the compressor that bolts in to two of the compressor bolts (one of which is broken also). This bracket doesn't connect to the air dryer cannister anywhere - and I really can't tell how it does anything of value.
So I'm afraid I'm stuck buying a new compressor (the old one is looking pretty bad anyway with the gasket worn almost through), and I'm worried that the Arnott option may not work if my cannister is missing parts or otherwise broken.
Any thoughts?