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Ford Windstar Problems
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A Wheel Bearing Problem. My van is on it's third set.
I was lucky, the extended warranty covered the cost.
Are there any other wheel bearing problems out there?
I think the third set is starting to go.
What else could it be?
can't wait till its paid off in a month then I'm ditching it for the new Subaru Tribeca 7 seater this summer.
2nd question, is a nuisance. Recently I had the instrument cluster replaced due to the tach messing up. Everything on the instrument cluster works fine, except now if I go 78mph or higher I get the dinging that you get if you leave the door open with the keys in the ignition. The dinging won't stop until you get back to 77 MPH. This is going to drive me crazy if we have to take a long trip. Has anyone heard of a fix, or way to get rid of this?
Late Dec. I had the fuel filter and IAC valve replaced, throttle body cleaned, weather got warm...no problems. End of January gets cold again, the van acts up. Back to the dealer to replace the Mass Air Flow sensor, warmer weather again, no problems.
Now it cold again and it's doing the same thing. The Dealer is scrathing his head since it's not lighting up the check engine light and therefore it's not showing any codes.
Ideas/thoughts/suggestions/HELP!
Today we found out we needed to replace the heater core for approx $350. This is on top of the other problem we actually brought it in for - my rear brake drums SHATTERED the other day with no warning whatsoever. This will be $240. I hate my Windstar but am reluctant to get rid of it and take on car payments.
Has anyone else ever had either of these issues with their "Crapstars??"
It was very expensive though...
1. Door indicator light stays on intermitently on on the dashboard when no door is open.
2. Interior lights stay on intermitently.
3. Door's chime goes off and on when no door is open.
4. There is a problem with rear wiper, sometimes it will not turn on and sometimes it will not turn off. (mechanic says it's somehow connected to the front windshield wipers and this is how it's supposed to be)
Independent mechanic spent 4 hours, and charged me approx. $200 trying to find out the problem with the door indicator. He said the problem is the wiring to the back door latch. To save me money on a new latch, he said he bypassed the problem by rewiring the wires to the latch. The car was fine for 2 days, and now the problem has started again.
Advice is greatly appreciated!!
3.8L Engine
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs.
Remove the ignition wire brackets from the valve cover retaining studs.
Remove the upper intake manifold.
To remove the forward valve cover:
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation tube.
- Remove the oil filler cap.
- Remove the alternator wiring harness from the valve cover studs.
To remove the rear valve cover:
- Remove the cowl vent panel.
- Position the air cleaner assembly aside.
- Remove the PCV valve.
- Note bolt and stud locations prior to removing the valve cover.
- Loosen the valve cover retaining bolts and studs
- Remove the valve cover.
To install:
Clean all gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
Lubricate all bolt and stud threads prior to installation.
Install new valve cover gasket and align fastener holes.
Position valve cover on cylinder head and tighten bolts in sequence to 71-97 inch lbs. (8-11 Nm).
To install the forward valve cover:
- Install the alternator wiring harness on the valve cover studs.
- Install the oil filler cap.
- Connect the crankcase ventilation tube.
To install the rear valve cover:
- Install the air cleaner assembly.
- Install the PCV valve.
- Install the cowl vent panel.
Install the upper intake manifold.
Install the ignition wires.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
So now we have had overheating problem. First time in, two months ago, the thermostat was replaced which seemed to be enough. But a week ago, we had problems with overheating. Fan never kicks in and the car stalls sometimes when first started. Also sounds like something is knocking around sometimes in idle, but this is intermittent.
For anyone considering a windstar, I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND!
We were told this morning that the head gasket needs to be replaced for about 2100, and that we will most likely have radiator problems in near future.
The van has only 80,000 miles so this is extremely disappointing. I had a 95 Buick that ran great with over 202,000 miles and i STILL sold it for 2,000 in '03.
We've had children leave lights on with the result that the car doesn't start. However, this morning, I used the remote and it didn't work. I thought maybe the battery was dead. When I got in the car to start it, the front dashboard lights came on but there was no sound from the engine.
Somehow I think this is serious. There were no lights on in the van. I don't recall the remote not working before when the battery went dead because of lights being left on.
Any ideas on what the problem might be? Thanks.
PS. My husband used his car and jumper cables to restart the car, but do you have any ideas on the underlying cause of the car not starting when no lights were left on?
Having a problem with transmission (read the forum and i know i'm not alone.) but as i am Dutch it took me while to look for Tranny in stead of Transmission.....
All shifts work fine..very smooth..engine runs fine also...but from idle (i think you mean this for standing still with running engine in gear ?) the Tranny (learning) feels verry irregular and lowers the engine RPM. when pulling up it's very abrupt ....untill end of first gear..then everything is smooth again..
Can somebody help me out here..? Thanks !!
(throttle position sensor) you'll get those
kind of problems as well. A TPS's job is to
tell the trans when to shift based on the
position of the accelerator pedal. I'm a mech
in the Army, seen this stuff for over 15 yrs.
hope this helps
As a new member of this very interesting website in which we can all benefit by reading each others frustrating experiences with our way of transporting our family. I can't say that I have already learned a thing or two which will help me with some of the problems that we are all experiencing. Yeah....interior lights staying on....going off....whenever they pleased. I would have to disconnect the battery terminal, because I was not smart enough to take the fuse out. Which I just read about it today. Well enough of that!!!
My current situation is that I have no exterior lights. Not to mention my brake lights. None of them work. Just today I pulled out the owners manual and checked every single fuse in both of the fuse boxes. Of course some how fuse #4 is not getting juice....... Can someone please assist me with the smalllllll situation.....(CHALLENGE) Hector, Norfolk, VA
(torque converter clutch electrical)
does anyone have a clue what means?????
And "transmission" is actually the correct term. "Tranny" is just a word used by Americans trying to sound cool. You speak English fine, much better than a lot of Americans!
Thanks!
I have been negligent and have never serviced the transmission. The dealer checked it out and showed me about one tablespoon of filings on the magnet on the pan. He said I should not drive any further until I replaced the whole transmission ($3,ooo). I suggested flushing it and filling it with fluid. He said that would be the worst thing I could do. I asked him to replace the pan and fill it with fluid.
It drives fine and I am skeptical about replacing the whole transmission and expect that a flush and fill should be sufficient.
Am I crazy??
Steve, Host
Thanks