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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
During the last round of cold weather here, the temp gauge reading dropped during my morning commute. It dropped completely out of normal range. I checked coolant level and all was fine. On the drive home, the check engine light came on. On-Star ran the codes as I drove, and the code showed a cooling system failure. Not a critical problem (according to them) but should be checked in next few days. The next day the temp gauge was normal. After a few days it malfunctioned again, but I noticed that when the gauge ran too cool that the cooling fans were running continuously. If I disconnected one of the cooling fans, the temp would rise. I checked relays and sensors and possibly had a loose connection on the coolant sensor located on the front of the block. After that I ran the car for awhile and the computer reset itself. No check engine light, and the temp gauge has been normal. It's probably sensor and computer related but I still don't know what caused it for sure. It sounds like this is not an isolated incident. I think it is time to start filing complaints with NHSTA http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ . The only thing that seems to get GM's attention is numbers.
Other than that the car is great. The warped brake rotor problem is common with many new cars. Switch to heavy duty service types for the Imp and you should have no more worries about warped rotors..
Just went thru same thing with my '01LS with 105k, turned out to need a new thermostat.
Then light out, gauge works, no extra fan action, this for a few days.
Finally, light came on and stayed on, so I brought it in, got new thermostat, problem solved.
Will definitely try your suggestion in case of further leaks.
Another question for you - I've always struggled with learning how to use controls for temperature inside vehicle.
Example - I lie in Michigan - cold most of the time - easily "steams" up with multiple people inside (couple dirty/wet kids from wrestling).
What's the best way to manuever these controls??
Problem occurs especially when it's very cold outside.
What seems to be an issue is that front windshield cleans easily. How do I get side front and back windows to easily clear of fog???
Sorry for lengthy question - just happened to jump on site tonite and noticed your reply. Always looking for helpful advice and you seemed to have a good answer.
Thanks for taking time to read this over - believe me I need help (technically challenged to say the least - you should see my son's eyes roll).
Could this be because the previous owner had the theft deterrent system installed after he purchased the car? If so, how can I make sure it's functional? Is there a way to set it off by accident?
-Nixed
I looked on my insurance slip, and they gave me a small discount for having an "anti theft device on the car". If it's not the factory theft alarm, then I wonder what it is they are referring too. I'm going to give the dealer a call tomorrow so he could shed some light on this. Maybe it's there, but not active like you said.
-Nixed.
Or maybe try rolling down a window, then locking the doors with the keyfob from the outside, and then reach in and unlock/open the door; that'll usually set it off too.
Somebody please give me some advice....
Thanks
THeres the "passlock, VTD" TDS and the "content" TDS.
I believe all of the cars come with the passlock and its suppose to keep the car from being stolen along with someone stealing your radio and trying to use it in another vehicle. The passlock is suppose to disable the engine and NO alarm is sounded.
the "content" TDS is an option and it works like your typical alarm if someone breaks into your car.
hope this helps.
Is there a reason why you want the Impala?
Have you tried the MAXX? its suppose to have adjustable pedals on the upper trim version.
If you are height challenged? (PC), i would try alot of other vehicles and check specifically for your requirements. EIther go to one of the rentals that have a selling lot, or maybe a used car lot. I detest dealers, and ive found that the Car rentals/sellers are more likely to leave you alone.
It has also just started having transmission problems sliding between 3rd and 4th gears at 45-50 mph. It is currently being rebuilt by AAMCO for $2,500. I've been driving a KIA rental for 5 days and can't wait to get back behind the power of my 3.8 V6 engine!
I'll drive my Impala till the wheels fall off!
I'm probably going to just get a Prestige alarm installed as I already have the Passlock, and Radio theft deterrent which chrisis30 mentioned. It would have been nice to have the factory alarm, but it's only a factory install
You will need to empty the gas tank as much as you can, disconnect the battery and "drop" the tank. Replacing the sensor itself is simple, about a 4 hr. job.
Just in case you have bugs.
I bought an '03 new and no probs at all. If my veh is locked and I use my key to open the trunk it'll set off the alarm every time!
Take care,
Rodger
I've considered adding an alarm for content protection, but would love to hear feedback from other owners. I wonder if that comment about "bugs" from adding an alarm, from one owner, is usual.
I am not sure how much protection a car that has it's alarm going off would give, so many alarms go off on their own, and people don't pay attention to that.
And what kind of alarm system did you add? Someone told me they have good car alarms at Best Buy, but someone else told me to go to a place that sells car alarms.
Thanks so much!
Either way 68k or 82k seems too short for the life of an 02 sensor.
I just came across this forum today---about 4 years too late judging by the date stamps. Anyway, I have a 2002 Chevy Impala LS. Like you and some others, I have this odd popping sound that occasionally, and annoyingly, seems to be coming from the dash. Like you, I thought a rock or pebble had hit the windshield, but when it happened a 3rd and 4th time I realized there was something else going on.
Recently I brought it to the dealer for some unrelated work, and I happened to mention the noise, but the service advisor stated that in all probability the dashboard would have to be taken apart, and that would be very expensive. I decided to wait on investigating what the problem might be, but as time grows on I am getting more and more concerned about what the problem might be. Note that there is no predicting when the problem will happen, but it does appear to be happening more and more.
I've tried to correlate the problem with the temperature, but it seem to occur when it is cold and relatively mild as well.
Any ideas?????
Fs
Sensor #2 is the one after the catalytic converter, used to monitor catalyst efficiency.
Here's the Readers' Digest version of the diagnostics. Any competent tech should be able to diagnose and correct it:
Document ID# 475350 2000 Chevrolet/Geo Impala
Circuit Description
The PCM supplies a bias voltage of about 450 mV between the HO2S signal and low circuits. When measured with a 10 megaohm Digital Multimeter, this may display as low as 320 mV. The oxygen sensor varies the voltage within a range of about 1000 mV whenthe exhaust is rich, down through about 100 mV when exhaust is lean. The PCM constantly monitors theHO2S signal during Closed Loop operation and compensates for a rich or lean conditionby decreasing or increasing injector pulse widthas necessary. If the HO2S 2 voltage remains at or near the 450 mV bias for an extendedperiod of time, DTC P0140 will set.
Conditions for Running the DTC
• No TP sensor, EVAP system, misfire, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, Fuel Trim, fuel injector circuit, EGR Pintle Position, ECT sensor, CKP sensor, or MAF sensor DTCs present.
• Engine run time more than 200 seconds.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
HO2S 2 signal voltage remains between 425 mV and 475 mV for up to 90 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM will illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the second consecutive trip in which the diagnostic test has been run and failed.
The PCM will store conditions which were present when the DTC set as Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM will turn OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the third consecutive trip in which the diagnostic has run and passed.
The history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a malfunction.
The DTC can be cleared by using a scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
Check for the following conditions:
• Corroded exhaust flange bolts -- Using a Digital Multimeter, ensure that continuity exists between the engine block and the heated oxygen sensorshell. If resistance is excessively high, replace corroded exhaust flange attaching hardware as necessary. Refer to Exhaust System Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
• Poor connection or damaged harness -- Inspect the harness connectors for the following conditions:
- Backed out terminals
- Improper mating
- Broken locks
- Improperly formedor damaged terminals
- Poor terminal to wire connection
- Damaged harness
• Malfunctioning HO2S heater or heater circuit -- With the ignition ON, and the engine OFF the HO2S voltage displayed on a scan tool should graduallydrop to below 250 mV or rise to above 600 mV. If not,disconnect the HO2S and connect a test lamp between the HO2Signitionfeed and heater ground circuits. If the test lamp doesnot illuminate, repairthe open ignition feed or sensor groundcircuit as necessary. If thetest lamp illuminates and the HO2Ssignal and low circuits areOK, replace the affected HO2S. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Replacement .
• Intermittent test -- With the ignition ON, monitor the HO2S signal voltage while moving the wiring harness and related connectors. If the malfunctionis induced, the HO2S signal voltage will change. This may help isolatethe location of the malfunction.
If the DTC cannot be duplicated and is determined to be intermittent, reviewing the Failure Records can be useful in determining when the DTC was last set. Also refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
Changed calliper, but has not helped. Pads and rotor seem fine.
Any ideas as to what might be causing this problem?"
I didn't expect to get a reply back so soon! Thank you very much for responding. It is comforting to know that I'm not the only one experiencing this problem, and that the problem doesn't appear to be anothing major.
Thanks again!
I have upgraded to Sylvania Brite Lites - incredible difference in light!
Switched to Mobil 1 after after the first year. Have used nothing else, also use the larger Mobil 1 oil filter (One for the late '90's Blazer V-6) fits with no problems and works well!
Brakes
Still have the original pads, rotors, and calipers. Never have had any problems. Vehicle is used in short distance stop and go traffic. Went to change the front pads. Still have more than half left. Brakes should start sqealing when 1/8" of pad is left. No unusual wear on the rotors. Boots look fine.
Normal maintenance
Change oil and air filter every 3 months
Change fuel and cabin filter every year
Change oil every 6 months
Replaced all four tires at 27,500 miles
Problems
Driver's side high beam wouldn't work
Fixed under warranty, pinched wire
On Star won't work
Haven't got it fixed yet
Excellant vehicle, runs well, handles well, warms up quickly in the winter (Wyoming).
Place jackstands where the tire jacks go. Use a floorjack on the ridge just inboard of the rocker panels. DON'T try to raise the vehicle other than the cutouts in the rocker panels. The rocker panels are plastic and you will bust the plastic fastners holding the panels to the car. $37 for a replacement set of fastners. Yes plastic - doesn't rust.
Anybody get leaves in the front fenders? Noticed the visible fiber piece (visible when you open the front door)sort of drifted down and stuff has collected at the bottom. Used a Shop Vac to suck out the accumulated debris.
Can anyone give me any additional info on this, and on whether I should confront the dealer with this info... the work was done yesterday.
PS. The transmission was replaced at 37000 miles by dealer "voluntary warranty" after they had misdiagnosed problem 3 days earlier and charged me $250 for cleaning ignition fuel jet nozzles (whatever). While I"m pleased they fixed it, they didn't offer any refund of the $250.
Thanks for help!
After having a flush and fill done, the temperature gague now varies up to and sometimes slightly beyond the 200 degree mark (12:00 position). Is this normal?
I wonder whether my water pump is getting weak or if I'm just paranoid. I also smell radiator fluid, but there is no leak that I can detect. Perhaps the heater core?
Please respond with a copy to my e-mail, and thanks in advance.(Lroach1@rochester.rr.com)
I've just bought a 2004 Impala from a GM dealer, and after driving more than 20 ins my legs start to go dead.I have read in this forum that this a problem with these cars. My car is going back to the dealer this Thurs for a new "under seat foam pad" in any ones experience does this correct the problem?
Also, where can I find a list of tsb's for this car so as to see if there are other problems in case I need to exercise my 30 day satisfaction guaranty.
Thanks in advance
Chris
Any thoughts on dealer parts vs Autozone, etc?
tx
Can anyone tell me if GM has had any recalls for Coolant Leaks. I need to get mine fixed but would like to see If there are any recalls first. I understand there a lot of people with the same problem.
Thanks!