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please help winter is here.
Here is my solution:
1) Check your blower fan relay, located on the firewall above the blower fan compartment. Mine was OK. I had to remove some corrosion from the wire connector pack. Spray occasionally with WD40 to prevent further corrosion.
2) Check your blower fan resistor pack. It is located on top of the AC/blower fan compartment. Mine was rusty. I cleaned it with some sandpaper and a wire brush. If yours is really bad or burnt out, replace it, otherwise it can be cleaned with no problems.
3) If your fan doesn't work at all, replace it.
4) If cleaning the connections doesn't help, and your fan still only works on HIGH while on DEFROST, then your fan switch and wire harness connector in the dash are no good. REPLACE THESE AS A PAIR. My switch and wire harness connector were melted. When a blower fan is failing, it draws more current than normal, causing the wires and switch the heat up at the point of connection. This melts the plastic and makes an even poorer connection. I bought a used switch and harness at an auto wrecker for CDN$5. After solder-splicing each wire and carefully taping, everything works just great.
If you replace the switch and wire harness connector, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REPLACE THE BLOWER FAN MOTOR ALSO, otherwise the switch and wires will melt again because the motor is failing.
Make sure to check a few vans at an auto wrecker for a good switch and harness connector. I had to look at about 5 vans before I found one good enought to buy.
Hope this helps. Good Luck.
@ 90 degree Fahrenheit as soon as turn on the AC, temperature gage climb all the way to red the zone. After turn of the AC, temperature goes back down.
I got a problem and I think I saw the answer on here a long while back.
The problem is when driving down the slab with the air cond. on and it is cooling just fine, when I approach a hill or have to step into it for power to go up a small grade the air switches to the floor , after toping out of the hill and go back to cruise and not calling for power it comes back on and blows out the dash as it should.
I am losing vacume some where or it is restricted, cracked or pinched,,, what ever but how do you find it and where do you start looking????? This is giving me fits and if there is a lot of hills around it gets very uncomfortable .
Helppppppp. thanks much.
Thanx
baldwin4
If you find it please let me know also.
N5445
n5445
THERE IS A VACUUM HOSE THAT DETERIATES WITHIN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE INSIDE ENGINE COVER TO GET THE ONE END. THE OTHER IS NEAR THE WASHER RESERVIOR.
I DID MINE ABOUT 2MONTHS AGO. YOU'LL NEED SOME RUBBER TUUBING ABOUT 3-4 FT LONG. JUST REPLACE THE HOSE FROM THE WASHER AREA TO THE VALVE LOCATED WITHIN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT PRETTY MUCH EVEN WITH THE GAS PEDAL
I FOUND ALL OF THE DETAILS ON PRIOR LISTINGS ON THIS SO JUST SEARCH A LITTLE WITHIN THIS SITE.
Hope this helpe you!
I have replaced the low pressure cutoff switch on the accumulator and my mechanic has checked the freon level and pressures.
I've been told that there is no vacuum control for this section, but it sure acts like it does. Any ideas?
My wife is happy, so I'm happy.
Charlie
Thanks
The factory service manual says to remove the access panel.
But there are no pictures/diagrams for the heat core removal.
My assumption, is that it can be removed from inside the van on the passenger side as the heater hoses go through the fire wall.
Am I correct?
Any assitance in removal/replacement would be appreciated.
AstroMark
First off, thanks to all of you for helping me diagnose the problem. I went the doghouse route, by the way. Yes it was a pain, but I think it would have been worse to try and do it through the hood. The break in my line was about five inches off the connection at the intake. From the hood side, it looked as though someone had already done this before because there wasnt't the thin factory line or the thicker elbow at the tee end; there was just what looked like a typical vacuum hose (maybe 1/4 or 5/16 inch).
Anyway, the line was connected at the tee and just dangling down toward the Vacuum Ball (or whatever you call it). I pulled on it and it came up free (unconnected), so I just assumed that it was disconnected at the Ball. I spent a good hour under the car feeling around the ball, but all the lines were connected there. The unconnected end of my 1/4" line (again, remember it was connected at the tee near the evaporator), had the 1/8 inch "stiffer" line sticking out of the end, oh about an inch and a half. After reading some of these threads I found that this was indeed the line that goes back to the intake and at that point, the elbow was intact and there was about 5 inches of pretty stable 1/8" line.
So I went to the auto parts store. Of course they didn't have the dealer part, so I started looking around for some tubing. The guy had some 1/8" nylon tubing, so I got a 72" spool of that for $5.95. I also got some bigger tubing for which I hoped the inch or so of protruding 1/8" line would go into. If not that, then maybe the nylon tubing would work. The bigger line that I bought had a 7/64" ID, which I though would create a nice snug fit. It didn't. The 1/8" nylon tubing was too loose and slid around too easily in the larger tubing. Which made me think that the dealer 1/8" tubing is really for ID not OD. And of course the 1/8" line that was protruding from my unconnected line just fell apart when I tried sticking it in the new 7/64" tube.
But not to despair. My 7/64" ID tubing fit pretty well on the factory 1/8" line coming out of the intake. (oh yeah, I paid a whopping 79 cents for a foot of the 7/64" tubing). But I still needed to connect that to the line that was coming off the tee and, as I said the 1/8" protrusion was crumbling. This called for a splice. If the nylon tubing hadn't been so small, I could have used it. But like I said, it was just too loose. So I started thinking: What would be about that size; I only need a section of it to connect the two larger tubes.
Hey, what about one of those extension wands that are on a can of compressed air or WD-40? No good. Too small. And then I had my brainstorm: the ink tube in a cheap ball point pen. It took about five pens to find one that was almost out of ink (I wanted it clean and as much as I could get), but it was a perfect fit.
Turns out I could have gotten away with just a couple inches. But the bottom line is that with a piece of ink tubing from a cheap Bic pen (which are about $1.00 a dozen, so less than 20 cents for the one pen which had pretty much already served it's purpose anyway) and a 79 cent one foot piece of 7/64" ID tubing, I got the job done, with plenty of extra space to route it over the air cleaner housing.
All climate control vent settings now work like they're supposed to. Thanks to you guys and about a buck.
The relay is a part of the resistor pack.