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Hyundai Tucson Acceleration Problems



  • Just recently bought a used 06 tucson after my elantra got totaled had the car about 3 weeks had similar problem turns out it was the fuel pump cost me about 400. from a local garage but mine had about 89k miles that could be the problem your having good luck
  • fahdjfahdj Posts: 1
    I also have the same problems in my new 4w 2009 tucson
    the agent told me the injectors need to clean but the problem get back fast
    they reprogram the engine the engine acceleration become good for short time but and return bad It seems this problem will not solved
    note:- I bought this care 5 monthes ago
  • doblakdoblak Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 Tucson with 5,374 miles that is 16 months old and just had to replace the Blower Motor and Radio LCD Display due to failure. This was done when I had the oil changed at no charge except for the oild change cost.

    One morning the blower/heat controls were not functional and there was not a blown fuse.

  • I have a Tucson 2009 4W 42,000 km. for the past two months I have been problems with accelerating, the car feels like it is going to stall. After replacing the O2 censor twice and another censor the measures the amout of gas that come out when you accelerate and a censor that measures the volocity when you turn and the fuel pump. I have to take the car back again, because the problem occured again.
    Anyone else with a simular problem what have you done to get it fixed?
  • To almost all above, mentioning problems with acceleration, stalling, engine light comming on, black smoke from the rear (on diesel), bad fuel economy.
    READ THIS !!!
    I have during the past 3 months experienced all of the above, replacing part after part, believing I had resolved the problem. But it always comes back, the stalling, the engine light etc.
    I have replaced the rail sensor, the mass air flow sensor, the in tank fuel pump, the filters and even the turbo. But still no god.
    And yesteday was a breakthrouh.......for probably the third time, I opened the cover under the rear seat to access the fuel pump, and found lots of dirt in the diesel. Of course, the filter was clogged, which I lately have replaced 2 times in less than 10 tanks.
    So I drained the tank, and noticed a sort of layer of paint comming loose, from the tank wall.
    Thinking WTF !
    Called my local dealer today, and they tell me that this had actually been an issue on some Santa Fe's, Tucson's and one H1.
    It appears that some sort of alloy inside the tank disolves in time, resulting in huge problems of course, and a need for a new tank.
    Check this on your car, if you are experiencing some of the same symptoms.
    In my opinion, this is for sure a production faliure, and Hyundai Corp. shoud deal with the cost of replacing the tank with a new one. I will for sure put up a fight with my local dealer, cause this is absolutely ridiculous ! If they say this is normal, than why is it not in the service manual, that the tank need replacing every for example 100 000 km ??!!!
    Worth noticing that gas and diesel models run tha same tank and pumps, but they differ acording to year. (Mine is a -05 2.0 CRDI.) Hope this will help some of you that have had the problem re-appear, like I have several times.
    Let me know, and good luck :-)
  • amobofoneamobofone Posts: 1
    So I can't tell from your post if you actually replaced your tank and if that corrected the problem? I've narrowed mine down to only stalling out and engine light comes on when I have the air conditioner on and I accelerate quickly!? Never happens in the winter, just in the summer when I have the air on...weird, any one else assotiated it with the air conditioning being on?
  • spgandauspgandau Posts: 3
    2005 Tucson. Exact same issues. started at 110,000 miles, and I have been dealing with it for the past 2.5 years. Generally, if I pull off to the side of the road and wait 5 minutes, the problem goes away for a few days. In my "testing" of what it feels like I noticed that if I carefully reduced throttle I could feel a mechanical change in the pressure required to push the accelerator pedal and observe the corresponding rpm. In my case, I noticed that if I kept the rpm less than 2000 and slightly above 1500 rpm, I could slowly coax the car into going faster, gently moving accelerator back and forth. Engine still ran rough, but I could limp home.

    Been to 3 different dealers. Even if the check engine light does not come on, it will throw a code. Here is the dealers "solutions":
    #1. Spark plug code. Replaced all spark plugs and changed timing belt. (dealer #1).
    #2. O2 sensor code. replaced O2 sensor. (dealer #2)
    #3. "engine compression is low; we can give you a new engine or a used engine. which one do you want?" (dealer #3) I took my car (after a week) and drove home without incident.
    #4. I asked dealer #2 for a quote to replace the fuel filters. He never responded to my request.
    #4. fast O2 sensor code. replaced fast O2 sensor. (dealer #2)
    #5. catalytic convertor code. I did NOT replace the catalytic convertor. Dealer #2 said that the fast O2 sensor and catalytic sensor codes were the same, so they were taking the "cheaper" route by changing hte fast O2 sensor first. However, after with other mx people, the symptoms do NOT indicate a bad converter.

    At this point, I decided to choose my own solutions, as I realized that the dealers have NO ability to troubleshoot, and are simply reading codes and swapping pieces. Good money for them; no solutions for me.

    I changed the coil and bought new spark plug wires. I bought a complete fuel filter replacement kit and am doing the filter replacements myself.
    I purchased a rebuilt ECU from a vendor online; that will be going on after I have replaced the fuel filters. All these parts cost me slightly less than what the dealer was going to charge for the catalytic converter replacement.

    I noticed that the car was sometimes taking a few more seconds to start (cranked longer before actually starting). That is what motivated me to change the coil and plug wires. After reading other sites, I understand that if the coil does get hot, it can begin to breakdown; causing harder starts. I thought if the starts could be an issue, perhaps at cruise it might send strange pulses to the computer?? (at this point, I am grasping for possible solutions!)

    there are no "aha!" solutions, and Hyundai is generally lacking in its willingness to listen and figure this out. they prefer to read codes and swap parts. You are on your own. :(
  • No, I didn't replace the tank.....way to expencive and lot's of work.
    So I made my own dieselfilter inside the tank, wrapped around the stock filter attached to the pump. Capable to pick up A LOT more filth before getting clogged. Works like a dream :-) Basically, my plan is to keep driving it till it stops, then take out the filter and clean it. Still havent had a stop for 2 months now though. Still fighting with the Hyundai dealer here, but doesn't seem to get anywhere, so I have contacted a consumers` council here.
    We'll see how it turnes out, but the car will be sold. Never had such a piece of crap.
  • spgandauspgandau Posts: 3
    Jun 22, 2012 updated info:
    After doing all the work above, I replaced the ECU with a rebuilt unit. within 100 miles, I got a check engine light. I went to the dealer and asked for a code and explanation. The code was P0420 (catalytic coverter) The technician, after realizing that I was technically-bent gave a reasoned explanation. Basically, he explained that if the catalytic converter was going bad, it could cause the 02 sensors(both of them) to go bad, and cause other check engine lite issues. He also claimed that the catalytic converter should be replaced every 80,000 miles... which was the first that I had heard of this.
    I went home, bought a "bolt-fit" catalytic converter from NAPA and replaced my old unit (which now had 150,000+ miles). Dealer wanted $900+ to do the job. I bought the unit, rented an impact wrench to get teh bolts loose, spent 5 hrs working, and paid $300+.
    I also sent off my old ECU and had it overhauled. The overhaul report showed the ECU had one capacitor break and spill electrolyte onto the printed circuit board. Several solder joints were poorly done. The overhaul facility cleaned the board, replaced the capacitor and re-soldered several joints. seems that part of the issue may have been the catalytic converter being old and partially plugged(?) seems that 95% clear is enough to cause a catalytic failure code. It also seems that the ECU had also failed and was partially causing some of the seemingly unrelated codes.
    I have re-set the check engine light (disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, and removed the 10A ECU fuse and waited overnight). So far, I have driven only 50 miles. Runs OK. My understanding is that if I get the P0420 code again, it is most likely caused by the pre-catalytic units that are integral to each exhaust manifold (V6 2.7 L). They will be an expense that I am not ready to cross. If I get another code, I will probably sell the car and get a different brand altogether.... :confuse:
  • spgandauspgandau Posts: 3
    I have finally resolved my issues, to my own satisfaction. I will list them in order:

    a) The ECU was the utlimate culprit. It was broken inside, and after I had it overhauled, there was no more issues with acceleration problem, hesitation, etc.

    b) The check engine light did come on after I initially installed the new ECU. It consisently gave a P0420 code (bank one, which is the aft set of cylinders on the V-6). I had already replaced the catalytic convertor, so I am confident that it was a legitmate code. I did nothing to replace, clean, or deal with the P0420 code.

    c) I re-set the ECU--disconnected the battery AND removed the fuse overnight. Then, I drove for 500+ miles. Initially, the light was off for 70 miles, then on until 200+ miles ( I confirmed the codes at Autozone), then it went off and stayed off. Car operated normally, UNTIL the high outside temperatures arrived.....

    d) Then, the AC was intermittent. I noticed that the engine began to overheat (it never reached redline), and as the engine temperature rose above normal, the AC began to put out less cold air. Eventually, the AC stopped altogether. Then, as the engine temperature returned to normal, the AC began to work again. As long as the outside air temp was less than 90 degrees F, the AC worked. As the temperature rose above 90, the engine would begin to over heat and the AC would slowly put out less and less cold air until it would only blow HOT air.

    e) The check engine light remained OFF through all of this AC problem and engine overheating, so I am confident that the issue of acceleration was resolved with the ECU change. If acceleration is your only issue, I would recommend changing the ECU.

    I did the only thing left to do... :sick:

  • Google (leave spelling errors) " 2008 Tucson GL, 2.0 Auto tranny, intermittent hessitation/loss of power " and there should be a link to the Hyundai forum with a detail probs of my vehicle and repair history.

    This vehicle does mostly short trips and in city, 1-5 miles on freeway occasionally. So has 40K plus of just city driving, often engine does not even get warmed up.

    O2 sensors were only error codes even after being replaced. Purge valve replaced, did not help. Catalytic converters broke...engine revved up and heard a knocking sound under vehicle. Both cats replaced and new O2 sensors. Problem still existed. Reset ECU and it ran horrid!!! Mass air flow sensor replaced.. Ran great for a month then again intermittent hesitation and died at stopped sign. Before dying, the radio/CD play totally unresponsive to any controls, volume, CD track, power switch...then car died at stop sign. Ran perfect after than and off to the dealer with it....

    The head mechanic has been in conversation with Hyundai hotline.
    They think it is a Metal Gasket by exhaust manifold that occasionally leaks which can emit vapors causing electrical issues than make the car die. The pressure leaks causes the hesitation. Vehicle is in today to have gasket replaced and the gasket has been redesigned and is not metal so a KNOWN issue.

    Tucson Engine same as Elantra according to the head tech who is assigned to work on my vehicle...his daughter has an Elantra and he says not problems ever with it!

    I must say my dealer has been fantastic trying to find out probs, given me loaner. Vehicle has been in over 20 times...often I have the oil changed and other general maintenance. They replaced a burned out headlamp free once...was charged the 2nd time for the other headlight. I drive with them on 24/7.

    If your dealer can't figure out a problem ask them to call the Hyundai Hotline and speak to them.

    There has been a recall but no mention of hessitation issues. I have had the ESC light stay on. The ESC switch was replaced a couple of years ago and that issue was solved....but twice this year had the ESC light come on...which is one of the symptoms of the recall issue affecting some other switch.

    Other than the hesitation blues probs above & ESC light issue, the vehicle has been great. Much more reliable than my Ford & Saturn...not as reliable as my B2000 Pickup that ran and ran and ran....but then again it had mostly freeway driving the 1st 100K miles.
  • freewill2freewill2 Posts: 1
    I have a tucson,2007 crdi 2.0 ,210,000 km . smoke,after- normal like nothing


    I have a tucson,2007 crdi 2.0 manual gear ,210,000 km .
    On 0606-2013 'after driving for two hours i had a low speed section and when i accelerate I suddenly had uncontrolled high pitch rpm+enormous smoke black mostly from the egzoz , i couldn't control the gas and had to shut down engine with key .
    Pulled over, tried to start again- it started normally but pressing slightly the gas caused the same .
    Shut it again , waited for 4 hours and then it started and drove as like nothing has happened.
    So far drove about 200 km more with no sign of trouble!!!
    All during the happening no check engine light apppeared !
    I had the epr unit replaced and the check engine once lighted but they said it was only un balanced reading .
    The car drive about 300 km a week in mixed areas , no terrain, some highways but rarely long distance drive.
    so far it is the first time such a thing happens.
    What is it ?
    thank you .
  • vkoolvkool Posts: 1

    O my Days! I see all your comments and I am having so much regrets that I feel like bawling! I purchased a 2013 Tucson GLS and whenever it is in low speed or the steering wheel in turning motion - it lurches and speeds off like the devil is after it! It had only done 22km when I purchased it. The lurching and speeding happens sporadically. You don't know when it is going to happen, there is no indication but as said before I notice it mainly happening in low speed or when steering is in turning motion. One day it jumped off the side off the road when going around a corner and ended up in a ditch. I called and took it to the dealers. They kept it for 9 days before it occurred with them. It was not hooked up to the diagnostic machine when it happened. They connected it to the computer afterwards and it didn't show that anything was wrong. The service technician turned up the ECU values and returned the vehicle to me. I asked him why did he do that when it is apparent that it is a computer problem. He more or less said because it was occurring at low speed it could have been some delay issues so he turned it up. Until now - I don't see the sense in that. It started happening more frequently so I returned it after a few days. This time they kept it 2 days and cleaned the throttle body and changed the air filter. Well, the vehicle started racing in reverse, with the jumping and speeding up continuing. I gave it back to them and they have had it for a month! The 2009 Elantra I believe had a similar problem. If I had seen the site before - I wouldn't have have purchased a Hyundai. The experience with the dealer has left a sour taste in the mouth.

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