they charged me a hundred bucks which i am not too mad about but if i can get a few of those bucks back i will try. anyone know if light bulbs are covered under the bumper to bumper extended warranty?
Approaching the 30k point with my 2003 RX AWD. Some have suggested switching to synthetic oil. I know this has been kicked around before but not for some time. What do people think in general and if yes, what synth. oil would you recommend?
Recently, my RX300 experienced flooding in the spare tire wheel well and on the interior floor (floor mats were very wet). This has happened three times (after rain storms), and after the last time, my radio would light up but no sound would come out. Best guess is the flooding likely caused damage to the stereo amplifier. We took the car to the dealership who said they would have to charge and arm and a leg and rip out all the seats to diagnose the cause. So, we did a little investigating on our own spraying the car with water from a hose but could not find any leaks. We've left the car outside (but not driven it) a few times in the rain, and no flooding has occurred. Upon further inspection of the car, we suspect that the flooding may have been caused by some missing screws in both the right and left rear wheel wells. Our next action step is to take it back to the dealership to put these screws in, drive it in the rain, and see what happens, but I just wanted to check with folks to see if they've had similar experiences or might know of some other causes. Thanks in advance for your help!
After 5 years and 93K miles, I finally got new brakes. The rears were down to 2/32, and the fronts were 4/32. The dealer suggested replacing the rears; I decided to do them both at the same time.
So...new pads front and rear, rotors turned, transmission drain and fill, and an oil change for $430 out the door.
Oh..and as always, the "dealer" was the local Toyota dealer.
I have a 2001 RX AWD. Changed to Mobil 1 synthetic at 9859 miles. It has worked very well for the last 58000 miles. I use 10W30 in the summer and 5W30 the rest of the year. Engine runs smoother once I started using the synthetic oil. I live in Virginia with mild winters, but it still starts quicker with the synthetic.
I only drive about 11,000 miles a year and change the oil every 2500 miles. I am sure this is extremely conservative, but cheap insurance. I purchase the oil at BJ's Wholesale Club and it is not significantly more costly than standard petroleum oil.
I work for an equipment manufacturer and we sell a great deal of PAO synthetic oil as an after sale item. The benefits of a full synthetic are real in my opinion in industrial equipment in severe applications in addition to automotive applications.
I have a 1999 with 130,000 miles. Overall the car is great! I had one problem, the charchol canister. The check engine light came on and that is what is was. The total bill was $600.00 at the dealer. Service manual recommended cleaning this in the maintenance guide. I never had it done, but when I took it in at 100,000 miles for alot of general maintenance the service advisor told me they dont clean them? Oh well. I had my car checked over at 100,000 and they found a slight leak in the water pump. The rest was just preventative maintenance. Other than the normal things (just front brakes once,tires and oil changes) this car has been good to me. One strange thing I did encounter was the power window started working sporadically on the drivers side. It did it for one or two days and then the brake light burned out on the same side. I replaced the brake light and the power window worked fine. It was strange and I dont know why but somehow the two are related.
My 99 RX's panel lights went out the other day, and as I suspected, the fuse was blown. I promptly replaced that fuse with a new one, but as soon as I turned on my headlights, that same fuse blew again. Tried it one more time with another new fuse, but the results were the same - as soon as I turned on the headlights, the fuse blew.
I'm now thinking that there may be a short in the fuse box, but none of the other fuses are affected. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
The short is most likely located between the headlight switch and lights that are not working when the fuse blows, not at the fuse box. I assume from your post that headlights/taillights are ok. Problem is just dash panel lights?
for a 1999 RX-300, 50,000 miles, single owner. Has sunroof, rack, cd-changer, leather seats.
Dealer has given a take-it or leave it price of $16,900.
Couple of paint chips near the front grill. few paint chips on the front and rear bumper which the dealer will take care of. and of course the 'D' light bulb has blown (that he is not gong to replace)
Interior is exceptionally clean. It feels like no-one has sat in the car. Dealer says an old man owned the car, who brought and serviced it meticulously at the same dealer and now traded it in for a new lexus. Dealer even showed me the complete serice history from the Lexus service database.
I drove the car around the dealers lot in the dead of the night at 9:30pm and could not find one single unusual noise coming from anywhere in the vehicle.
I will take a drive. Absolutely. But what do you think about the price? I don't want to pursue if it is not worth it.
I somwhow like the dealer and trust him because he refused to sell 2 other RX-300s on his lot since they were not without some "mechanical" issues. He indicated that he will sell them to local "ace imports and the like" but not to an individual person because he does not want a disgruntled customer. and by the way, this dealer is the worlds #1 Lexus dealer.
I think the price is a little high. For not much more (21-25K), you should be able to pick up a 2001 or 2002 RX300 which may still be under the original powertrain warranty. Some good updates were available on the 2001 like HIDs, larger gas tank, LATCH, VSC to name a few.
Should be we picked up a 2000 AWD with the upgraded stereo with 38,000 in 2003 for $24,000. offer less meet somewhere in the middle.. Good luck... Matt
LOL, you would have to ask that. :shades: I'm going to take the chicken route and refer you to Real-World Trade-In Values. You'll get some advice from folks who buy and sell every day.
And check out the posts over in the Certified Used Vehicles (CPO) discussion too. The range looks to be anywhere from $800 to $2,800, depending on the model and manufacturer.
Other than dealer negotiation, what's the least expensive way to get a new key for a 2002 RX. The plastic head on mine broke while turning it over in the ignition.
Search this thread, I got mine from sewell (lexus-parts com) and it looks like a new one for your 2002 would be $186. You then have to program it (I think directions are also on this forum). Of course the least expensive way is to get the valet key without the remote. They also sell shells which may work if just the plastic case broke.
Find a locksmith who can cut high security "sidewinder" keys and ask him to get you a DAP-Key Lexus replacement housing and blade (remote head shell). He can then duplicate the key and swap the module from the old key to the new one, no programming necessary. Street price should be around $50.00, see also Msg #8700 above.
I believe you are right about JM Lexus. Spoke to someone that works there and he said they sold 100 cars the day after Thanksgiving alone. That whole weekend saw tremendous sales.
There new showroom is really neat, as is the rest of their "compound". I live pretty close to it and I love driving by it. Never seen so many awesome cars!
What options are there for re-keying the locks and ignition if keys are STOLEN ?? Our home was burglarized and the spare "remote" key and the valet key were taken (we have the second remote key and therefore we're able to drive the car). I have received a quote of $1100 from the Lexus dealer who will change the locks in each front door, the back hatch door, the glove box and the ignition. Obviously, my concern is that the car could be taken at some future time by the same person, as they know the license and know where we live.
Insurance Co. (State Farm) is refusing to pay (so far) to have the locks and ignition re-done.
Are there less costly alternatives to re-gain security of the car??
Rekeying formerly required replacement of the ECU (engine control module). I'm told it is now possible to "reflash" an existing ECU and furnish different keys. Some locksmiths that do high security automotive work are able to accomplish this task. It should be less expensive than the quote you received from your Lexus dealer.
as regards to state farm not coughing up for the key locks, why worry? When the vehicle is stolen, they will pay for the whole car instead of just the locks!
thanks for all the advice, but I went to the dealer today and to my surprise they will replace it free. said they have had several problems like this recently. great dealerhip. they now have handled three issues after the warranty. I'll definetly go back there for my next purchase. my wife suggested super glue and we will do that to have a back-up. but won't replacing the battery require reprogramming?
We just sold our 2001 RX300 2WD with 81K miles for $17,500. Bought it almost two years ago with 58K miles for $20,800.
Likes: Fit/finish Quality Solid feel Decent power on highway Top notch leather seat quality and comfort Unmatched excellrnt brake feel
Dislikes: No room for items. Narrow interior Annoying/poorly designed center console The worst turning circle of anything I have ever owned. My 2003 Ford Explorer feels likes it can turn on a dime compared to RX300
Problems: catch in ignition column where the key does not turn burned out 'D" bulb in instrument panel Annoying constant FAINT light flickering Tough to reach oil filter
Will I recommend 2001-2003 RX300? Yes. Just make sure it is well maintained. I feel Dealer's CPO's are worth what they charge for them.
I will buy another Lexus at some point. They pay great attention to details, do not cut corners, and their decent reliability make them a good buy.
Sounds like you had a pretty good experience to drive a luxury SUV for 25,000 miles for about $3000.
I agree with the console, the D light, and the turning radius...those components all SUCK.
I've driven my 01 for 93K miles and still enjoy the ride. It's the first car in 15 years that I honesty don't want to get rid of. The paint still looks great, the ride is still nice, the leather (thanks to zainobrothers) still looks new, and it still looks like a relatively new car. Although I initially wanted the 330, I'm satisfied with my paid-off 300.
As mentioned a few posts back, I got new brake pads for the first time at 92 or 93K -- which is stellar in my book. I'll keep it several more years.
I have a 2001 RX300 with 28,000 miles (as you can guess, it's not driven much)with no problems until now. While driving it, the VSC light and check engine lights both came on at the same time and have remained on. Everything still seems totally normal. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone have any ideas before I take it in?
Lose gas cap is the most common cause. Second most common cause is evap hose behind air filter box pulled off when someone lifted the top of the air filter box to check the filter. Did you get recent service where they may have done this? If it is either one of these just correct it and the light will reset itself eventually or if you want immediate reset pull fuse marked EFI or battery cable. If it is neither of these it is most likely one of the sensors and should have the code read by someone with a scan tool to determine which one.
There has been no service done for months and no gas fill for weeks (remember - don't drive much). I've seen posts and suggestions for Check Engine light but my big concern is also with the VSC light being on.
I saw in the owner's manual that there are 3 fuse boxes. I found the 2 fuse boxes under the hood, but can't find the 3rd one. It appears in the picture to be on the driver's side near the side mirror. I checked all of the interior on the driver's side as well as under the hood but can't find it. Where is it and how do I access it?? Thanks.
I just went through the same frustration. It is located behind the little compartment on the left. (I use it for businesscards.) You pop out the door and you will see the fuse box.
Speaking of that. I had to find it because I blew a fuse that controls lights behind the stereo and down by the gear shifter. I replaced that fuse about a week ago and it just blew again. Anyone have any ideas?
I just purchased a 02 rx300 last night and while i was on my way to work this morning i noticed the vsc and engine light on. I freaked but i am glad to see that it is a minor problem, i already have an appt tuesday to have it checked out
A few weeks ago the lights went out on my radio/cd/tape buttons as well as the light by the shift knob showing what gear you are in. It turned out to be a 7.5 amp fuse in that fuse box in the driver's compartment. I replaced it and it worked fine for about a week. Yesterday it blew the fuse again. Seems if there was a short it would have blown the fuse right away. Any ideas?
A dead short means the load resistance on power supply is nearly zero, causing much higher current than just a little over the normal load. It heats up the fuse very quickly so that the fuse explodes/splashes what so ever, to blacken the window. An overload melts the fuse gently so the window is still clean.
It could be one of the minor problems but it could also be one of the sensors which the dealer may get $500 or so to change. Hopefully you are going back to where you purchased it for the repair. It seems highly suspect that the light came on right after you picked it up. Kind of like the problem was already there before purchase and someone just reset the light when you test drove it and before you drove it away. It takes a little while for the light to come back on after reset.
Just went to back out of the garage and my 2000 rx300 started than quit.Turned the key and all it does is go tick tick real fast.Would it be the starter solenoid? or the starter? Is the solenoid on the starter or somewhere else? HELP!!!!
Comments
Thanks,
Jim d.
tidester, host
So...new pads front and rear, rotors turned, transmission drain and fill, and an oil change for $430 out the door.
Oh..and as always, the "dealer" was the local Toyota dealer.
9859 miles. It has worked very well for the last 58000 miles. I use 10W30 in the summer and 5W30 the rest of the year. Engine runs smoother once I started using the synthetic oil. I live in Virginia with mild winters, but it still starts quicker with the synthetic.
I only drive about 11,000 miles a year and change the oil
every 2500 miles. I am sure this is extremely conservative, but cheap insurance. I purchase the oil at
BJ's Wholesale Club and it is not significantly more costly than standard petroleum oil.
I work for an equipment manufacturer and we sell a great deal of PAO synthetic oil as an after sale item. The
benefits of a full synthetic are real in my opinion in
industrial equipment in severe applications in addition to
automotive applications.
I had one problem, the charchol canister. The check engine light came on and that is what is was. The total bill was $600.00 at the dealer. Service manual recommended cleaning this in the maintenance guide. I never had it done, but when I took it in at 100,000 miles for alot of general maintenance the service advisor told me they dont clean them? Oh well. I had my car checked over at 100,000 and they found a slight leak in the water pump. The rest was just preventative maintenance. Other than the normal things (just front brakes once,tires and oil changes)
this car has been good to me. One strange thing I did encounter was the power window started working sporadically on the drivers side. It did it for one or two days and then the brake light burned out on the same side. I replaced the brake light and the power window worked fine. It was strange and I dont know why but somehow the two are related.
I'm now thinking that there may be a short in the fuse box, but none of the other fuses are affected. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Dealer has given a take-it or leave it price of $16,900.
Couple of paint chips near the front grill. few paint chips on the front and rear bumper which the dealer will take care of. and of course the 'D' light bulb has blown (that he is not gong to replace)
Interior is exceptionally clean. It feels like no-one has sat in the car. Dealer says an old man owned the car, who brought and serviced it meticulously at the same dealer and now traded it in for a new lexus. Dealer even showed me the complete serice history from the Lexus service database.
I drove the car around the dealers lot in the dead of the night at 9:30pm and could not find one single unusual noise coming from anywhere in the vehicle.
Is this OK? Should I go for it?
tidester, host
But what do you think about the price?
I don't want to pursue if it is not worth it.
I somwhow like the dealer and trust him because he refused to sell 2 other RX-300s on his lot since they were not without some "mechanical" issues. He indicated that he will sell them to local "ace imports and the like" but not to an individual person because he does not want a disgruntled customer. and by the way, this dealer is the worlds #1 Lexus dealer.
Good luck!
tidester, host
6-cd, leather & sunroof.
Asking price of dealer $23,788
Is there any wiggle room here?
Appraise a used car before you buy.
Steve, Host
And check out the posts over in the Certified Used Vehicles (CPO) discussion too. The range looks to be anywhere from $800 to $2,800, depending on the model and manufacturer.
Steve, Host
Thanks,
Ken
I belive the largest volume Lexus dealer is JM Lexus in Margate, FL.
Pete
There new showroom is really neat, as is the rest of their "compound". I live pretty close to it and I love driving by it. Never seen so many awesome cars!
The Sandman
Our home was burglarized and the spare "remote" key and the valet key were taken (we have the second remote key and therefore we're able to drive the car). I have received a quote of $1100 from the Lexus dealer who will change the locks in each front door, the back hatch door, the glove box and the ignition.
Obviously, my concern is that the car could be taken at some future time by the same person, as they know the license and know where we live.
Insurance Co. (State Farm) is refusing to pay (so far) to have the locks and ignition re-done.
Are there less costly alternatives to re-gain security of the car??
Pete
as regards to state farm not coughing up for the key locks, why worry? When the vehicle is stolen, they will pay for the whole car instead of just the locks!
thanks,
ken
Pete
Likes:
Fit/finish Quality
Solid feel
Decent power on highway
Top notch leather seat quality and comfort
Unmatched excellrnt brake feel
Dislikes:
No room for items.
Narrow interior
Annoying/poorly designed center console
The worst turning circle of anything I have ever owned. My 2003 Ford Explorer feels likes it can turn on a dime compared to RX300
Problems:
catch in ignition column where the key does not turn
burned out 'D" bulb in instrument panel
Annoying constant FAINT light flickering
Tough to reach oil filter
Will I recommend 2001-2003 RX300? Yes. Just make sure it is well maintained. I feel Dealer's CPO's are worth what they charge for them.
I will buy another Lexus at some point. They pay great attention to details, do not cut corners, and their decent reliability make them a good buy.
Joe
I agree with the console, the D light, and the turning radius...those components all SUCK.
I've driven my 01 for 93K miles and still enjoy the ride. It's the first car in 15 years that I honesty don't want to get rid of. The paint still looks great, the ride is still nice, the leather (thanks to zainobrothers) still looks new, and it still looks like a relatively new car. Although I initially wanted the 330, I'm satisfied with my paid-off 300.
As mentioned a few posts back, I got new brake pads for the first time at 92 or 93K -- which is stellar in my book. I'll keep it several more years.
Speaking of that. I had to find it because I blew a fuse that controls lights behind the stereo and down by the gear shifter. I replaced that fuse about a week ago and it just blew again. Anyone have any ideas?
Pete