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Lexus RX 300

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    wasbwasb Member Posts: 1
    If you're referring to the lens cover getting cloudy, my mechanic has a polisher that brightened up the lens cover to good as new.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Gel toothpaste reportedly works as a home remedy. :shades:

    Healing Hazy Headlamps
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    tencomtencom Member Posts: 11
    Hi, I hope it's not too late to give some feedback.
    If the tail lights plus the license plate late are not working.
    Check the 10Amp fuse under the steering wheel.
    Change it if it's already busted. You can get it at any shop for less $5.
    Once you change the fuse and it gets busted right away when you turn on the switch. Check the wiring in the rear under your RX. It's possible that some of the wires are touching the body of your vehicle and causing a short. Insulate these wires and you should be good to go. If this is not the case, you may have to bring it in and have them check.
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    mainsail3mainsail3 Member Posts: 4
    I was just told that the struts on my 2001 RX300 are bad and are causing the tires to cup. The tires are only mildly cupped with 38000 miles on them (the car has 68000 total miles). Personally, I notice nothing unusual in the ride or handling. The car does not sway, wallow or bounce when you push on the bumpers, so what gives? I'm reluctant to spend over 1800.00 for struts and plates if I really don't have to spend it. Any experiences with this?
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...mildly cupped with 38000 miles..."

    At 38,000 is there enough tread left on the tires for continued use..?

    Front, rear, both...??

    I think that I would install a new set of tires and only begin to worry if they start showing cupping prior to 35,000 miles.

    Lexus (and Toyota/etc) has had a serious spat of strut mounting plate rubber insulator failures that result in a "thunk" or "clunk" sound going over slight bumps at low speed. The struts themselves are just fine but the rubber strut plate insulator is compressed to the point the spring is making metal to metal contact with the strut mounting plate.
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    tadgofftadgoff Member Posts: 1
    I have two key remotes and neither will lock or unlock the driver's side door but will still unlock all other doors. The power lock door switch on the driver's door doesn't lock the door. Could this be something easier than the switch? Maybe a fuse or something?
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, you have a failed door lock actuator.
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    txgal1txgal1 Member Posts: 14
    My passenger door lock was not working for a couple of weeks and then all of a sudden, it started working again. Weird but grateful!
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    mainsail3mainsail3 Member Posts: 4
    Actually, I had 6/32" tread remaining. The tires are Bridgestone Alenza's and have performed very well. Yes, all four tires mildly cupped, but they were rotated every 5k miles. I don't believe it's the strut mount as I've never had any real clunking sounds - only the whaaa, whaaa , whaaas at about 45 mph.

    Our minds are going the same direction with this as the dealer adjusted the price of the tires so I got the new set for less than the original set of Alenza's I bought nearly five years ago. I don't believe the strut story and I am already heeding your advice. Replacing and then watching... Thanks for the response.
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    jem4jem4 Member Posts: 1
    We bought the 2000 RX300 AWD with 23,000 miles. The transmission failed at 65,000 miles. Had it repaired at a national transmission company and bought the 3 yr/36,000 mi warrantee. Now the transmission overdrive failed with 130,000 miles. I wouldn't want anyone else to have this "ongoing" expense. Fix A Third Time? or What?
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    kestaskestas Member Posts: 1
    Engine stalls immediatly upon starting. Cranks OK. After numerous tries starts and runs, but when I start the idle speed is very low. Once I get the car in gear and drive, works fine. This is an intermmitant problem. Does not do it all the time, sometimes when cold, sometimes when warm. Seems that shutting of AC helps. The RX300 is model year 2000 and has approx 60K miles
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    lexus300fanlexus300fan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 RX 300. After using it an hour earlier, I went to leave work and the key fog would not unlock the doors. The climate control would engage the air conditioner compressor but nothing else was functional. The LED panel displayed the radio and clock but nothing else. The dome light doesn't come on when the door is opened but the switch will turn it on. The rear wiper doesn't work nor does the auto-on headlight sensor, the door locks or the fog lights. I have these problems once before plus the horn was randomly going off and the battery was being drained. I pulled the fuse for the horn and the battery kept it's charge. It's been that way since. The dealer was not able to find the problem the first time but everythinkg came back to life so I've just lived with no horn. Any ideas???
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Search IACV (idle air control valve) in this forum. It is common for RX300's to need this little gem to be cleaned after so many (especially city) miles. It isn't mentioned in the maintainence items so the dealer will just replace it with a new one (charging you several hundred dollars) at your expense.
    If you do your own work, this is easy to do. I would also clean the fuel injectors with a high-quality spray meant for the same purpose, available at CarQuest or Napa, as well as cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and checking your engine air filter, all part of the same procedure.
    The symptoms of a dirty IACV is the engine stumbles when starting (warm weather, cool engine?) and won't start unless you intervene, but it does eventually start and runs normally afterward.
    Mine has only done this once, and has not done it again (yet) so I know I'm on warning to go clean it, which I've done before.
    Please report back and let us know what you find out.
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Bad body control (computer)? Reset of body control computer? I haven't seen many posts related to this kind of failure.
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    dashworthdashworth Member Posts: 6
    I have never used the towing package on my 99 RX300 purchased new. The towing package was installed at the dealership. Connecting a test light shows a good ground on the appropriate pin, but nothing on the other pins. This has been verified by a seperate VOM meter. I have no idea where the fuse is located so have not checked that angle. There is a small module which appears to be an interface between the lights and the external load (trailer). Ideas on where to start?
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    pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    When I had my 99 RX300, I installed the trailer wiring myself. I recall that there was an aftermarket module (Hoppy?) that converted euro-wiring to the US "flat-four" and although it was seldom used, did fail at one point and needed to be replaced. There was also an in-line fuse holder near that component. Hope this helps a bit.

    Pete :)
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Has anyone found any upgrades, including parts for the Silversport that could be retrofitted?

    Any suggestions to find parts?

    Thanks...
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    tylerswiretylerswire Member Posts: 1
    la4mead - thank you very much for writing these instructions. My wife has a 1999 RX300 & yesterday the drivers side window decided to come loose from the bar that runs along the bottom of it; just on the side where the door opens from. It came off the tracks on both sides and became wedged and stuck in the down position. With the aid of your instructions & bit of gorilla glue - we're back in action.

    Many thanks
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I'm glad it helped. I need to look that post up again because it's time to replace my rear passenger lock solenoid. I'm just not looking forward to it.

    I was hoping to be able to add a cheap generic lock solenoid as a "slave" unit add-on as some others have successfully done, but I'm still a little unclear just how until I take the door panel apart, but I don't want the car down for days while I'm trying to match up parts. If anyone has instructions to share (and part source info), I'm interested.
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    jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    I have a 2000 RX300 (since new). For the past 5 years, I have put a car seat on the right rear seat. It never had any issue till 2 weeks ago. However, during the past 2 weeks, the seat belt un-buckle itself twice. My son, who was sitting in the car seat, fell with the car seat. In both cases, this happened on a highway onramp with sharp right turn. I was doing 25-30mph. Those are really scary experiences, even though my son was not really hurt. I have since moved the car seat to the left.

    My daughter had sit in that car seat till she was almost 40lbs. My son is only 32lbs. So I don't think weight is the issue.

    So my questions are: how could seat belt un-buckle itself? If an adult is sitting in that seat, is the same issue going to happen? Any recommendation to fix the issue? I google, but I didn't find any reference to such an issue. Thanks.
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    You may have tried these obvious suggestions, but to troubleshoot: First, with a finely focused flashlight and maybe a magnifier, I would look for debris and/or wear inside the (female) buckle (that goes to the vehicle frame). I would check to see if the (vehicle side female) buckle is worn out or the (belt side male) buckle is worn. Chances are pretty good that you have dirt/stuff in the (vehicle side) buckle keeping from seating in the buckle and securing (usually with a full, positive "click", and wiggling it about.

    I would then test it without a child in the belted seat, to see if it's just a matter of "clicking" the buckle tightly, to see if it stays locked together when it is buckled correctly.

    I would also refer to the child restraint's mounting instructions; I'm no expert, but shouldn't there be another mounting point in addition to the belt? (Really?)

    I hope you find your solution, and wish you safe travels...
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    gmkanegmkane Member Posts: 5
    My antenna has stopped going up/down. Feed back on how hard it is to install a new one??
    Gordon
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Do you know that parrots can learn to unlock their cages without being shown how...?

    How old is the child..?
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    jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    My 2000 RX has the same issue. Check the link below. I am thinking of fixing the issue during XMas break.

    http://antennamastsrus.com/Lexus/RX%20300/RX%20300%201999-2003.htm
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    jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    My son is only 2.5. At first, I also thought that maybe he released the buckle himself. But after I did some measurement, I completely rule that out. He was so tightly fasten in his car seat, his hand can never come within 10-15" of that buckle.

    I did more google. It seem that a person in SC who had a 2002 RX, reported the same issue with the same seat (right rear).
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    edited December 2010
    Since it wasn't a parrot (this time), what did you find out? Which part is worn out - is it the female end? I'm curious what you found out.

    Does it hold when you click it?
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    jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    I called Lexus. They said they had never heard of this kind of issue and they recommended I visit a local dealer. So I take the car to the service department of a local Lexus dealer. A guy over there did some simple tests and found nothing wrong. The only suggestion he gave was to buy a new car. He didn't response when I asked him: "What about the unlucky future owner of the car?". I am really disappointed with Lexus and this dealer.

    I checked NHTSA database. There had been only 1 report of this issue for that generation of RX300. Then I added my case to that database. I don't think there would be a recall of this issue.
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If you're concerned then why not simply have the seat belt assembly replaced on your own nickel.
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    That sounds logical to me, too. I would just replace whatever is giving you trouble once you identify it.
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    irishcaseyirishcasey Member Posts: 36
    Hi, I'm trying to replace the rear, high third brake light on my 02 RX 300. It would be much appreciated if someone could explain how to get to the bulb. Also if you knew what bulb to use. Thanks much !!
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    pschiffepschiffe Member Posts: 373
    As I recall, you carefully remove the plastic bezel by prying and lifting. My experience was that you need to use an OEM Toyota/Lexus bulb for this application. The 921LL Sylvania lamp sold by auto parts houses did not work properly and is subject to premature failure.

    Pete
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    newhaukennewhauken Member Posts: 1
    Ok, I have done all that has been discussed here with the exception of changing the sensor with no luck. Any other suggestions? I have a 01 RX300 with 100k just had the service done with plugs wires fluids etc.
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I'm not sure where you are on this. Is this regarding the MAFS (mass air flow sensor)? I found that I had been cleaning the filiment easily enough, but it was the wrong filiment - duh!

    When you remove the 2 screws and the connector and pull the sensor up, you will see there is an obvious filiment. But the actual MAF filiment that needs to be cleaned is at the end of the tube and can only be viewed with a focused light down the tube. I used a good quality cleaner: CRC brand for MAFS. When it was clean and dry I reinstalled it and it's been working great. The car's worth spending the $ on a new sensor, but money's tight and I don't want to throw it away needlessly.

    I hope this is helpful for you.
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Has anyone replaced the small parking lamp bulb; it's the outermost light in the headlamp cluster?

    The backside of the twist-out bulb socket is deep inside the fender. On either side there is a lot of stuff in the way. Are you supposed to remove all that (driver's side includes the power distribution box, battery, air intake, etc.)?

    Did Lexus intend the whole headlamp cluster to be removed, or the fender liner, tranny cooler, bumper/skid pan - in order to access the parking lamp socket? Is it even possible to reach it from underneath the fender?

    Once I can get at it, I'm replacing it with something brighter and longer lasting.

    I'm puzzled. Thanks,
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...brighter and longer lasting...."

    Oxymoron, that...!
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    The bulbs I was referring to were something like this:
    http://genet.gelighting.com/LightProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=COMMERCIALSPECPAGE&- PRODUCTCODE=12327&BreadCrumbValues=Automotive%5EAsh%20tray&SearchFieldCode=null
    Compared to this:
    http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp- =%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x6.htm

    But the real question is how to get at them easily?
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    avery1avery1 Member Posts: 373
    Have a '99 RX. Replaced the transmissiona at 107,000 and had a gel engine scare at the last service. I also have a 2006 Sienna and have been watching the forums about an unacknowledged door problem that Toyota is ignoring. So it is goodbye Toyota/Lexus. Just ordered a Volvo AWD XC60 for overseas delivery. Even with several strikes against it I did look into the new RX and decided the XC60 was a much better value. No espresso at service but I can live without that.
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Recently the BRAKE indicator started flickering with a corresponding chime. I'm under the impression the only conditions that it would warn are for the parking brake, low brake fluid level, or low brake fluid pressure. However, there is no loss of brake fluid pressure, the fluid level is OK, and the parking brake fully releases. Yet the light comes on intermittently, flickers irregularly, and the chime activates with it annoyingly, as if asking for an expensive trip to the dealer that may or may not fix the issue.

    It seems to be worse when the vehicle is cold (and continues until heat soak) and/or at the same time a high-load switch is turned on (like the headlights or rear/mirror defrosters).

    My guess is either a bad parking brake switch (where is it?) the fluid level sender in the master cylinder cap, or brake line pressure sender (again, where is it?).

    Has anyone else come across this phenomenon?
    How was it dealt with?
    Is there another reason the BRAKE indicator is supposed to warn for (is there a hard-wired sensor for other conditions?
    Any advice which switch, and it's location?

    To avoid confusion, it's not the orange warning for a dead bulb or the ABS warning, which are fine. It's the red BRAKE indicator that normally comes on while starting or when the parking brake is depressed.

    Early '99 RX300 2WD (3/1998)
    Thanks for your help!
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    richot34richot34 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 99RX 300 this summer. My mechanic checked it out and the problem may be a faulty float in your master cylinder. The float looks like a white styrafoam cylinder. If it does not "float" when placed in the cylinder this will cause the brake light to come on your dashboard. My mechanic checked it and I got a used one from a used care lot for about $10. Try that first.
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    mbrosenymbroseny Member Posts: 5
    I replaced an auto leveling system sensors on my 2002 Rx300 a few years ago, and now I'm getting an indicator on my dashboard that it's happening again. Can this be a recurring problem on this model Lexus?
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    mbrosenymbroseny Member Posts: 5
    I would definitely have the car checked out by a licensed mechanic. Make sure the transmission fluid has been changed every 30,000 miles. Also, check for any hesitation or noise when you switch gears and driving the car. You might want to see if you can get an extended warranty on the drive train. Good luck.
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    jbl85jbl85 Member Posts: 49
    Do you mind commenting on what kind of service you had to your transmission prior to it giving out? Was the fluid ever changed, etc.?
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    melanjianmelanjian Member Posts: 31
    i have a 01 rx 300 awd since i bought it new and it is excellent in every way no problems, 124,000 miles and i just took a trip and drove 525 highway miles and i used over 2 quarts of oil!!!! Just had the oil and filter changed 2 days prior to the trip.. no leaks and no exhaust smoke...usually i use about 1/2 quart of oil between 6,000 mile oil changes of fully synthetic oil as i have since i bought the car!!! any thoughts by anybody especially by wwest whose post i have read since 2001 are greatly appreciated!!!!!!
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Something to do with that last oil change..

    Who did it..?

    Wrong dipstick..?
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    melanjianmelanjian Member Posts: 31
    nothing to do with the oil change because the exact same thing happened
    last august when i made the same trip.. 550 highway miles over 2 days.. adding almost 2 quarts.. only happens when making sustained highway trips !!! any ideas???
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    la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    I'd start with jacking the car up on stands and examine the undercarriage thoroughly. You may have already thought of that...

    If you determine there is definately no sign of leakage, you will probably want some engine diagnosis like compression testing, etc. Good luck!

    FWIW, Mine uses less than a refillable amount of oil during the oil change cycle, meaning I've never needed to add oil in between changes. It's still above the low mark on the dipstick when it's time to change it (3-5 or 6000 miles at the most), which seems to be normal to me. If your engine is burning oil quickly, it's not a good sign. You might see signs like blue smoke at start up. Running it when 2 quarts low might exacerbate the problem.
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    wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited May 2011
    124,000 miles....piston ring blow-by at sustained high engine RPM.... 2-lane roads, lots of passing...under load....pulling a trailer/RV....?? Make sure your PCV valve is clear or install a new one.
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    melanjianmelanjian Member Posts: 31
    no towing ever done.. but i will check the pcv valve ..where is it?? and is it something i can do easily??? that valve has never been looked at as far as i know .can you give me directions on how to inspect it or dismantle it.. and could the pcv valve be the cause??? can you explain??? you say sustained high engine rpm..would average sustained speed of 65 mph be high engine rpm??? thanks !!!
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    melanjianmelanjian Member Posts: 31
    thanks..compression testing sounds like a good idea ..somebody said i might need a new engine block..less likely to be pistons or ring problem
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    ktcktc Member Posts: 30
    My wife has a 2001 RX300, and after reading this forum, I have been using Mobil 1 for oil change to prevent the engine sludge problem and go to Toyota dealer to change transmission fluid every 15000 miles to avoild the early transmission problem. Knock on wood, after 10 years and 100K miles, no trouble (except the Instrument panel "D" light went out) so far. Now my wife is thinking to get a new one. Question for WWEST, for the 2011 RX350, I suppose the engine and transmission should all be fixed (does Lexus still use Aluminum parts for transmission?) and I do not need to do all these special care? Is that right?

    With the current production slow down due to Japan earthquake and nuclear problem, I am more thinking to buy a new 2012 RX350 near the end of year and hopefully the production problem resolved and plenty of inventory make the price negotiation easier.
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