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Regards,
Tom
The car would run with an engine that had a snapped Crankshaft for pete's sake!
Anyone have any ideas???
NEED HELP!!!! NEED THE CAR!!!!!
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Note: There is an aftermarket suspension kit by OME (Old Man Emu) that will make the suspension feel better than new and the effect seems to never wear out, the OME set is around $60 * 4 shocks + $60 * 2 rear progressive coil springs, a real deal for what you get.
Pic is posted here:
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/Isuzu Trooper/41868995.gif/page/photo.html#pic
To access trouble codes, a jumper lead must be fitted to ALDL connector. With the ignition "OFF" connect these two leads together. Turn ignition "ON" but do not start engine. "Check Engine" light will begin to flash code 12. Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes. After a longer pause, code 12 will repeat two more times. This check indicates that the on-board diagnostic system is functioning. If no other codes are present, the cycle will repeat until the ignition is switched "OFF."
If trouble codes are stored in memory, the lowest number code will flash three times followed by the next higher code number until all stored codes have been displayed. The codes will then repeat in the same order until the test lead is disconnected.
OK, I installed the OME's on my 01' 2WD Trooper, and took her for a spin around the block, across town and back. I'm NOT that impressed with the ride or handling improvement for the $400+ spent. I admit the ride is somewhat improved, but I was expecting MUCH more for the investment. Yeah, they have a 2 year warranty, but I doubt I'll ever replace them. I ran the original shocks for 5 years and I checked them after removing them today. 2 of them are really bad with significant dead spots in them when you change direction in movement. The other 2 weren't great, but not really all that bad either. I suspect I could have gotten by with some nice KYB's or Rancho's for about 1/3 the cost. Oh well, you don't know until you try it.
I poured Sea Foam in my 99' Trooper the other day and plan to run it for a few hundred miles then change it out and see if it cleans up the system a bit. My oil consumption isn't all that bad, about 1 quart every 1500 miles or so. I'm considering going to Rotella on the next change, depending on what you report here from your experience.
I also put Sea Foam in my 01' Trooper today and I'll leave it in there til the next oil change. It hardly consumes any oil unless on a long raod trip, then it usea about 1 quart every 2000 miles.
Last road trip in the 01' got about 20 mpg, and the 99' got 19 mpg. Can't fuss too much about those numbers. In town is a different story!!
Other than oil consumption, the thing runs perfectly. Aside from having to check it frequently, I really thing the Trooper is a great vehicle. I just purchased a BMW 540i with sport package, so I have a feeling the Troop will be sitting more. :surprise:
Regards,
Tom
I'm about replace the timing chain and water pump on my 98 trooper (113,00 miles). Has anyone on this board tackled this task before? Any tips or pointers.
Thanks in advance,
Breck
Bill
I've heard there are two areas to adjust a Trooper clutch - one is the hydrolic system, and the second has to do with some wire.
Unless you clutch is obviously failing, perhaps there is some other place you can adjust it?
I likely will take mine back to the dealer to ensure that the clutch is properly adjusted - the other repair shops don't seem to be able to work on the Trooper properly.
Has anyone else had this problem and actually fixed it?
Does anyone know?
The real test will be the short road trip I am taking soon, and pulling a trailer. That is when this thing has historically used oil at a prodigious rate. I'll report back after that.
I'm hopeful that this is a good sign. I can live with a qt/1600 miles. It has used a quart/2000 miles average since I got it new.
My latest problem has been lots of pinging under normal driving. I did buy gas from a fly-by-night place, so I will try another tankful of something quality. If that does not work, I will look into a decarbonizing product.
Regards,
Tom
Anyway, I'll report back on this as well.
Regards,
Tom
I'm continuing to adjust to the new ride in the 01' with the new OME shocks all around. It doesn't ride nearly as 'softly' as the 99' with the new OME springs and 4 year old Rancho shocks with 0-5 adjustment ability. Its super smooth, although a little 'mushy' feeling at times. I'm still playing with which settings give the best overall feel of the road, combined with smooth/soft comfort. These Ranchos still seem to perform quite well, and respond appropriately when adjusted to a new setting.
Unfortunately, the oil burning was the same. I drove about 350 miles towing a 6x12 trailer with a bunch of stuff in it. The thing used about a quart of oil, maybe a little less. It's clear that when you load it up and/or do extended freeway driving, it loves to sip oil. But so long as I check it, it's runs just fine. It just annoys the hell out of me.
Regards,
Tom
Thank you for the question and reply.
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A million years ago, I dented the front of my mom's 1965 Impala and someone at night broke out a rear window. I found another Impala at a used car lot. I talked to the guy and asked if I could just buy the parts I wanted from that used car. He was all for it. I just harvested the parts right on the lot and paid what I considered a low price for all.
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I drive only manual transmission Troopers, no problems, but no TOD either.
I've had to replace the starter on my 99' Troop and I think I can recognize when the problem will occur on my 01' I noticed a different sound when starting the vehicle several times before the starter completely quit. It was at about 89000 miles when it gave out. This seems to be about a typical life expectency for starters on Troopers.
I put Sea Foam in the crankcase of both Troopers a few weeks ago, and it seems to be making a small difference in the 01' model. We've made a couple of 500 mile trips since putting the SF in, and there's no indication of oil use at this point!! We'll see if this holds up.
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Maybe change your battery sooner and not lose the starter.
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While on the battery topic, consider using an AGM battery, their internal resistance is 1/10 that of a regular wet cell battery, so at a given starting current, the voltage drop will be much less, so your starter gets more voltage and starts quicker under more ideal conditions. Also, the AGMs don't leak or vent corrosive gas so your battery terminals stay shiny new and do not contribute to lower cranking voltage.
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I believe that the GRP31 battery is the largest that will fit, good for winches etc..
http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/rvbatterysize.php
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I have also used the Optima brand in a smaller size that needs a spacer for the Trooper battery clamp to hold it sucure.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive.html
Regards,
Tom
The reply by paisan in '01 suggested the winter switch was intermittently activating, as the problem was not consistent. However, someone else suggested it was the transmission control module. There was very little in the way of follow-up on the discussion, so I'm asking for some help here now.
I do not know where the trans control module is located, nor do I know much about these kinds of things. It seems that the TCM is part of the computer system. However, it could be a sensor kind of thing. So how do I find it, so that I can either have it tested or replace it?
How would I disconnect the winter switch (which seems like a redundant system when you have 2WD-4WD capability)?
The transmission shop refused to work on this car, as they said the wiring harness was bad ("wires pulled, broken, the plug on the transmission destroyed...a butcher job") but I visually inspected all the wiring and found no such condition. I think they just don't want to get into a '93 rewiring job and have to give a warranty. Thoughts, all you Trooper experts out there?
By the way, I bought Isuzu because 11 years ago when I remarried an '87 Isuzu pup came with the ring...and you couldn't shoot the thing and kill it. It gave us 25+ mpg when the head was so warped it burned up a gallon of antifreeze every tankful.
I would suggest the mode switch first, then other options. Truprs are known for electrical gremlins, so checking the connectors and cleaning connections are a good place to start as well. One guys opinion
However, I fixed the problem, and it wasn't the mode or winter switches...this time. I simply need better glasses.
I put the vehicle up on a platform so I would have better working room, which also put the wiring harness/transmission into my good-vision-without-glasses range. Using a mirror on an extendable arm, I found that the two wires for the plug at the top of the trans (right under the shifter on the console) had been spliced improperly. I also found another wire, on another plug to the driver's side of the transmission (the 4-pin one).
For others who might have this same problem, here's what I did:
I don't know the names of the parts, so I'll try my best to describe them. I disconnected the shifter by taking out a cotter key on the end of the flat rod that went from the shifter to a round rod. (The round rod is connected to a flat rod that is connected to the shift mechanism in the trans. I simply disconnected that part which I knew would not alter the gear locations in the process.) After removing the key, I simply laid the rod end down (it rested on the muffler, if I recall correctly), and then took apart the console. The only caution I have about doing this is to be very careful with the positioning of the screws on the cable that leads from the shifter to the ignition. These got changed when I re-installed them, and I had to make several adjustments in order to get the key out of the ignition switch.
Using electronics cleaner spray, I cleaned the exposed wires, trimmed them and twisted the strands. I added dialectric grease, and used electrical connectors, the kind that you put on the end of the wire and crimp down, to reconnect them. In this way, I had a good electrical connection, free of grease and oil, and protected from future invasion of water, etc. The spray, connectors, and grease were not expensive. In fact, the spare change I found when I took the console apart paid for about half of the cost! My husband found that rather amusing.
In putting the console back together, I had my husband work the brake pedal as I reinstalled the knob (and the release button) on the top of the shifter. The pedal needs to be depressed in order for the release button to sit properly when you align the screw holes at the bottom of the knob.
There are other botched splices in other areas, and I will address them shortly. Fortunately, all are fairly accessible. The blue plug behind the left headlight has several bad splices, and there are two wires leading the the fuel injector that need work, but right now the vehicle purrs.
So, atfdmike, thanks for the encouragement to retrace the wiring again, even though I never opened the mode switch assembly. I appreciate knowing that elsewhere on this forum are instructions for doing so, if I ever need to and desire to get my achy, aging body back underneath again. In the meantime, I am serious money ahead.
Apologies to the AAMCO guy, but his description of the wiring harness was grossly overstated, as was his estimate of repair costs.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I guess it's possible, though. I have never priced valve guides nor looked at the work needed to install them.
Regards,
Tom
Well, it was about that time this weekend, so I pulled them out and took a good look at their conditions. Yep, they were loaded with debris and pretty blackened with dirt. I got my re-gen kit out and read the directions on it, followed them to the T, and tada....filters look as good as new!! The only downside is, you better not need the vehicle for a couple of hours. You gotta pull the filter, wash it out with a detergent, let it air dry, and then re-coat it with a new oil film that K&N provides. Process takes a couple of hours on a hot humid day.
Troops breathing freely again..........
I finally got back to my Trooper blower motor problem, but I'm at a loss.
First, I know the new motor I purchased works. I hooked it up to a 12V power supply and it runs hard.
Second, I took the dashboard apart enough to get to the blower motor switch and did continuity tests across the switch. It appears to work fine.
My problem now is I can't figure out where the gang of resistors that control the blower motor speed is. It's not near the switch. All the wires are ganged together in a plug that connects it to a wiring harness that disappears deep in the dash. I have no idea where it goes.
You wouldn't happen to know whether this resistor set is an independent piece, or where it is, would you? I know that bringing this to the dealer is going to be an incredibly expensive exercise, but I'm sort of at a loss now. Any help would be appreciated.
The wires from the blower motor disappear above the panel at the front seat passengers right foot. Unfortunately, it looks like they disappear into a plastic tube with other wires. There is a metal box behind that panel, but it looks like quite a few wires connect to it. I'll look harder.
Thanks for the thought.
So, after the cleaning I have not seen the oil pressure flux I was seeing. I'm keeping an eye on it. Wish I had cleaned the EGR valve before...it was real easy to get to and not much work to it. I would recommend all Isuzu owners do that if they have not already. Hoping it might slow the oil burn between changes, but that is not a critical issue with me.
If I was at a quart every 1500-2000, I would be jumping for joy . . . .
Regards,
Tom
What about a bad PCV valve and oil consumption? I could see something that caused excess vacuum to promote sucking oil out or excess pressure forcing it the other way but can't really visualize exactly.
Yep, I keep a quart of oil in the pocket in the back door and just need to make sure I check regularly. Once I get down I add some, usually twice during the 3500-4000 mile oil change cycle I'm in now.
I'm kind of getting the new car fever, but have trouble trading the paid off Trooper for something with payments as long as it is running good.