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Comments
When I crank it over it sputters but won't start. The fuel pump is new and it works if I apply power to it.
If I set the cam sprocket two teeth advanced, the engine will start and run but the distributor is at the extreme retarded position of it's adjustment range, it runs rough and lacks power.
Can anyone tell me why the FI works then but not when things are set according to the book?
I also noted that fuse # 8, #10, #11 & #12 get power from the main engine relay but have no power with the key turned on, and the relay is good. Fuse #10 powers the fuel pump relay. Does that energize after the engine starts?
Does anyone know where I can find a "Theory of operation" manual on the fuel system?
Thanks,
I just purchased a 94 Trooper LS. It needs some TLC as its been sitting for 8 months. I have a few problems I'm trying to collect info on.
1. I was wondering what the avg. oil pressure reading is at 55mph, as they don't give this in the service manual or on Mitchell.
2. I have a hesitation when the engine's cold and a whistling sound under med. acceleration(thinking a vacuum leak, possibly related to the hesitation??) I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar situation so I can pinpoint the cause easier.
3. When shifting from 3rd to 4th the trans shifts and rpm drops, but then it rises about 200-400rpm then drops again to the normal speed (2250@55mph or there abouts). Could this be TCM or band related, the trans operates normally otherwise. I'm not very experienced with computer controlled transmissions.
I'd appreciate any input on these matters, Thanks
As for the trans, first off, do you know the maintenance history? If not, changing the filter and fluid is a great idea. IT is a GM made 4L30E with as you know, electronic control. One thing you do NOT want to do is get a power flush and fill on the trans unless you know the previous owner had been getting them regularly. A flush seems to be a bad thing as many owners report trans problems after doing so even in trans that never had a symptom. The thinking is that the flush dislodges too much crap and it plugs valves and check balls in the valve body.
I suggest you get the fluid changed and filter changed and then change it again after 10,000 miles.
As to your surge in OD, your converter is a locking converter controlled by the trans control module through a solenoid. If you drive with shifter in 3 rather than OD, and there is no surge, then likely it is in the OD circuit. I would change the fluid and filter, and give it a few miles to see if it cleans up the problem. If not, the TCC solenoid can be replaced pretty easily, assuming that is where the problem lies. When you are under the trans, the smaller pan in front of the larger trans pan is the locking converter body added to the 4L30 base transmission to make it a 4L30E. Checking the electrical connections for the trans mode switch located on the trans input shifter shaft and grounds is always a good idea, clean and tighten them, and report back. Also, this link goes to a discussion on the TCC. http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=48646
HTH One guys opinion.
Any advise or suggestions?
I am just really worried that my transmission is going to fall out as I am driving home. I know I might be over paranoid... but I would rather err on the side of caution.
Thank you again for the advice
Connie
Is this something as simple as a battery, now that he is in his college parking lot ???
thanks so much !
sensor filed down a little--broke down again
sensor replaced--so back to square one--except--engine wont start now
question--does the diagnostic machine have to instruct the EMS---to reset itself somehow
we know that this poor engine has had historic problems--by design
the cause is probably worn crank bearings--at 49000 thats poor
but at least the engine should start and idle
I've been advised that I should have the transmission flushed because the ATF is dark (it should be a translucent red).
I've also been told that I should NOT have the transmission flushed because I run the risk of loosening particles and deteriorating the seals through the process of flushing. This would then lead to having to rebuild the transmission.
I purchased the vehicle used and I don't have maintenance records. I assume that the transmission was flushed at some point in the past since the mileage is so high (the Trooper would have died before reaching 196K without a flush, right?) Even though I prefer to take preventive measures I am thinking of not flushing the transmission and replacing the filter since it drives fine. If/when the transmission falters then I'll have it rebuilt. Does anyone have any other advice or insight?
Thanks for your reply in advance and let me know if you need more information to better respond to my post.
Kenneth
While a power flush does get most of the old trans fluid exchanged, it also does as you describe. Better to change the filter and fluid gradually. 4L30E transmissions are known to get into the 200,000 mile range, but need regular care to do so.
Power flushing a trans with that many miles usually proves problematic, and many owners report trans failures shortly after doing it. Since your history is unknown, you don't know that the previous owner ever did it. Rule of thumb with power flushing is do it the first time and everytime if you do it at all.
HTH One guys opinion.
Thanks for your suggestion. Given the concerns with flushing the transmission, are there any concerns about changing the fluid and filter? Conceptually, gradually changing out the fluid makes sense to me rather than "shocking" the transmission with a flush. However, is there also the threat of deteriorating the seals or dislodging particles with a fluid and filter change? Ultimately, I would like to avoid rebuilding the transmission until necessary (it dies). My concern is that a new filter may change the pressure in the transmission which could lead to damaging the seals which would then lead to rebuilding the transmission. Have you ever heard of a transmission having to be rebuilt after a fluid and filter change?
HTH One guys opinion.
HTH One guys opinion.
Also, my mechanic is saying that he is having difficulty getting parts for the Trooper. Are parts shortages becoming an issue now that Isuzu is not in the USA anymore.
thanks,
dan
However, putting it into 4 wheel drive manually works but it just bugs me, that light flashing and wondering what it would do if it all worked properly.
Any thoughts, thanks.
I have an intermitten electrical issue of some sort, like an injector missing its open signal or something like that once in a while. It almost feels like a spark plug not getting spark, you can feel it thru the whole drive train, but its very random and spurratic. :mad:
Cost 24 bucks + S&H, $31.90 total.
I have a 1995 trooper and want to remove the seats. Thanks for your directions.
Mine has bolts that look very different from bolts I have seen (six notches with curves and a pattern on top?) . I have tried the standard sockets wrenches but they don't seem to fit. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
I have a 91 trooper 2.6 6cyl. Bought it a few months ago with about 160000 on it. Had the whole engine rebuilt top to bottom due to a major coolant leak. Part of that rebuild included replacing the clutch kit.
A couple weeks ago my clutch started losing pressure and would not go into gear, especially not into reverse without grinding. My mechanic thought it may be the master cylinder and the slave which he replaced. After replacing those two components Trudi (my trooper) ran fine with the clutch nice and tight with lots of pressure shifting quite well. Two days later tho the clutch started losing pressure again and is now not shifting very well especially not reverse...
It feels like sometimes itll have more pressure than others especially if I sit and pump the clutch for a while before shifting... ANYWAY
Does anyone have any idea what may be affecting my clutch pressure if the master cylinder and slave have been replaced??? I dont think its the pressure plate because Ive been told that if that was the issue then it wouldnt be inconsistent like mine is.... Honestly the pressure plate seems to be the only thing left to replace as everything else is new as far as I know...
ANY help would be greatly appreciated as Trudi runs really well other than this problem... and my mechanic said that as far as clutch pressure goes the master and slave would be the only things causing that problem ---- yet! the problem has come back!
HELP HELP!!!! S.O.S. Please and Thanks Trooper lovers