Call Mark Jerrick @ Staten Island Subaru/isuzu. He is located in Staten Island, and will search out any Trooper you want. Tell him I sent you and he'll give you a great price. 718-979-9595
Hey Mike: WHat is the story with the Trooper S pricing. The isuzu internet site show Trooper S's in Virginia and the south at $20K. The same vehicles in Jersey are $30K. Is there a catch or trick to this? Do I have to go to Virginia to get these deals?
I've made my decision on the new TROOPER Purchase! I will be getting the 2001 S 4x4 for $19500.
I found a cheaper interest rate! No co-signer
Also, BLUEDEVIL AND BSMART THANKS FOR THE INFO. I don't get the 10/120 warranty because it's not a new vechle and it's not froma Isuzu dealer. I still get the 5yr warranty. I don't plan on driving it that much because I still have my ole' reliable HONDA Accord with 162,000 miles.
GADKINS1- I'm sorry to here about you XL-7. I too test drove this mini-SUV. very impressed. The only reason I didn't push the issue on getting this vechle was because the TROOPER is more roomy. I don't think you could go wrong with a TROOPER. Everyone in this club gives great info. about where to find helpful TROOPER hints.
I just finished dumping some serious cash into the Trooper!
I can't believe this thing ALREADY needed pads and rotors turned, AND it needs TIRES again..... All this and it only has 93,000 miles on it! Can you believe it! Rear brakes on this 5000 lb SUV only last 93k miles....
This is my 2nd set of Tires, they only last 47k miles each!
Seriously now, I did end up getting the Edelbrock IAS shocks installed. I know I could have gone MUCH cheaper on those. Initial reaction is good, but my wife drives the rig more than I do. I will let all know if I have an impression either way on these. Spent $69.99 each.
So with 90k miles service complete and new brakes, shocks and tires coming this baby will be good for many more owner satisfied miles!
on a very good vehicle and a VERY reasonable price. It should provide you good service for many years to come. It also sounds like you got a good deal on that rascal, especially when you consider it is a 4X4 model. Mine is a 2WD and it cost me a bit more than that. Forget about those few miles, you got yourself a NEW Trooper!
Gadkins1 Now about that Trooper pricing in the North vs. the South. It sounds kinda fishy to me. My Trooper was stickered at $29000+ and its a S Model 2WD. I'm in the South and all we had available down here were 2WD models. They did have a $7500 rebate allowance going on them, so that brings the price down in the 21K-22K range you mentioned. Maybe ISUZU dealers are showing pricing from different states, some including the knockoff for the rebate already included, while others are not. If you saw a Limited or LS model there in NJ for about $30K, it sounds like a pretty good deal to me! Down here these models sticker at about $35K-$37K. Again, this could be tricky depending on if there is a rebate involved. If you're serious about a Trooper, its worth asking all these questions. Happy Trooping!!!
I've been watching Trooper prices here in SE VA for the last year or so. Right now in Va Beach Checkered Flag has about 8-10 S 4x4 auto (some are stick). They've been advertising $18,990 for the sticks and $19,990 for the Auto. Add in $600 for freight and $300-400 processing fee and your about $21,000 not including TT&L (another $1000?). These just came in about two weeks ago, I was surprised to see them get such a big shipment of '01s this late in the year. No '02s yet. Most of the dealers down here have internet sites where you can check their inventory. We're only about a 6 hour drive to most of PA.
I think it starts around December/January, as opposed to most manufacturers starting the previous fall (Sept/Oct). The result is that many other manufacturers have new model-year vehicles for sale, and Isuzu still has "last year's" stuff. We probably won't see any 2002 Isuzus for a couple more months.
I contacted a dealer in Fairfax Va. that has a Trooper S for 19,899. He is faxing me directions so I can make the trek down there from NJ. I sincerely hope this is a legit deal with the pricing. I'm looking forward to joining all of you happy Trooper owners. Then, all I'll need is a third row seat and a flip down TV with a VCP. ANy thoughts on who has the entertainment system?
ear differential drain plug on our 98 Trooper broke off last night. I need advice/suggestions/info please - what is the likely fix, what should it cost, where should I go (dealer or not), etc.
The drain plug appears to be a 24mm unit. It's "hollow" in that there's a small round/cylindrical magnet in the center, with the threads around the outside of the bolt. While trying to tighten the plug last night, it broke off. Approximately the top half of the threads are stuck in the hole and the rest of the threads are still on the bolt/drain plug.
The drain hole is 99% open (the drain plug head did NOT break off in the hole), so the fluid drained out.
I'm out of town now (Grand Rapids, Mich.) and only local Isuzu dealer is closed today. I want to acquire the part ASAP even though I cannot pursue a repair until tomorrow at the earliest.
I'm hoping that the broken-off threads can be removed from the hole (by some "tapping" procedure my dad described) and that the entire rear differential housing/drain pan/whatever the thing is called that the drain and fill plugs thread into does not need to be replaced.
Your help advice is appreciated. Please, hold the wise cracks until AFTER I get this problem resolved!
You may want to try a local aftermarket auto parts store such as PEP BOYS. They may have a drain plug that will fit. You can also try an auto salvage yard (junkyard) that may have a wrecked Isuzu on the lot. The old bolt thread pieces should remove easily with a pair of needle-nosed locking pliers. The key is not to damage the remaining thread in the differential so that a replacement plug will go in easily. If the hole is 99% open as you say, there should not be much thread material left and it should come out easily. Save the tapping process for a professional shop as a last resort. You don't want to tap the hole and inadvertently push metal pieces into the differential fluid. Damaged rear end gears could result. Either way, be careful. God bless.
I bought a new '01 S 4WD Auto. Drove it out of the dealership for 21,500, including tax. I maybe could have done better, but I got the feeling that the sales mgr was getting fed up. He finally offered me within 50$ of what I wanted just to leave him alone. (good thing I only do this once every few years...)
I spent the last 2 years with an Expedition. As much as I hate to say it, what a piece of crap! When the warranty ran out last month, I started seriously looking for a replacement.
I have owned 3 Isuzus before, two I bought new from the dealers. The first was a 4x4 pickup (84, the first year they had 'em under Isuzu's name). Drove that for 100,000 miles, then sold it to a friend of mine. He's still driving it. Had another pickup that ended up with 160,000 miles and was still running strong.
I bought a loaded F-150 4x4 in '91, and in '92 sold it and bought an Amigo 4x4. Best car/truck/whatever I ever owned. Sold it when it got to 100,000 and we had our 3rd child (only two seatbelts in back). Bought a used Montero, okay but lots of nitpicks. Traded that on a '98 Expedition 4x4. Talk about problems!.
Anyway, here I am, back to my old standby Isuzu. I hope that I will get the same great service and dependability with this Trooper as I have had with the other Isuzus. Reading all of your posts helped me make up my mind. (the incentives didn't hurt either). I'm looking forward to keeping this one a long time. And my wife likes the Trooper better because it's not so damned BIG!
So all I need now is a 3rd seat. Also need to get a CD player installed. Any thoughts on whether to cough up for a real Isuzu one?
Thanks for this forum. I'm glad to know I'm not the only Isuzu fan out there, and I'm happy to join the happy Trooper owners club!
I have been looking at the 2001 Trooper LS 2wd and took one for a test drive. My impression was that it was a very well put together vehicle that would be a good value in todays market. I am looking for some opinions on the value and quality of these vehicles on how well they hold up and last. I currently drive a 98 Ford Explorer XLT and have put 85000 miles on it and really enjoyed that vehicle. However, it appears to now be 'nickel and diming' me every 5000 miles on something new: thermostat, oxygen sensor, etc. Does anyone out there have a good comparison between the two or comments on the durability of the Trooper?
I can attest that my 1999 Trooper has been trouble free for the first 30,000 miles. Check out my website at www.Isuzu.8k.com - I have a spreadsheet of expenses I incurred the first 25,000 miles. (This website is down this afternoon because the hosting service is having a problem.)
I have been unable to build a shelter in my backyard due to local zoning regulations. Consequently, I have been considering buying a cloth/canvas cover of some type to put over the vehicle when not using it. Does anyone know of an effective cover for a Trooper and where to buy it? This cover must not scratch paint, a lesson I learned many years ago when I put a plastic tarp over a newly refinished MG.
I travelled 250 miles today to get a Trooper S in Virginia. They seemed to have the best deal based on internet prices. I wondered how the prices could be so much lower than elsewhere. But when I got there, the salesman showed me how their prices can be so low. They underpriced the Trooper and offered me $4,000 less for my trade than my local dealers. I should have known better. I back to trying to locate one in my local area (New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, New York); preferably within 50 miles of Philadelphia.
Just a thought. When I bought my Amigo, my dealer in town tried for 2 weeks to do a dealer trade for my Truck. Finally they said, it wasn't going to workout. So I called up Corp. Isuzu and spoke with the VIP department (you need to be a member of planetisuzoo.com $25.00 for a lifetime memebership) and they did a dealership search for me and they found that there were 3 trucks in the nation that were like mine. And one happened to be about 120 miles away. One call and One day later I had my new Amigo!
You can read all about Trooper's legendary reliability at www.epinions.com. Seems just about everyone that has one swears by them and says that they run 150,000 miles +. So far, no problems with my still new 2001 Trooper S 2WD with 5000 miles on the odometer.
My understanding is that most dealers (Isuzu or otherwise) will perform an electronic search to find what you're looking for at another dealership. You should not need to be a member of any club or organization to get this benefit.
Regarding dealer lowballing on trade-in, this is quite common. It is the reason why I never trade my vehicle in to the dealership. It's also the reason why I am skeptical about people who report what a great deal they got on their new vehicle: if a trade-in is involved, the price paid for the new vehicle part of the transaction is meaningless.
You will not likely get a great price on the new vehicle AND a fair price for your trade-in. The dealer typically will make sure it does well on the trade-in part of the transaction since it's harder for the customer to tell what a fair price is for a used vehicle than for the new vehicle. Why? Because there are many more subjective factors in determining the value of a used vehicle (condition, demand, how much the dealer can sell it for, etc.) and it's therefore easier for the dealer to make money on a used car than a new one.
I have noticed that my engine has been pinging a lot lately. I just had the oil changed at the dealer and checked it and it is fine. I wonder if anyone else has had that problem. Also, the heat shield sounds horrible when it is cold, any ideas how to fix that? Let me know, thanks.
Can anyone help me? I'm looking at buying a 1995 Isuzu Trooper. I thought it was an LS, but it's not badged at all, and I have no way of knowing otherwise except for maybe the Vin number. The owner doesn't know. According to edmunds there is a difference in price between the S and the LS, and I want to make sure I make an offer that is appropriate for the model. The Vin is JACDJ58V9S7909777. Any help would be appreciated.
About the dealership search thing first. Yes a dealer will do a search for you. This is what mine did, but the dealer won't tell you where the truck is, knowing this info you can just go to the other dealer, and say, "Hey I'm looking to buy that truck, here is my quote from dealer X, can you beat it?" And without a doubt the 2nd dealer will. That is why I went to the top first.
As for PING....
I have/Had it (and a handfull of others here too) ... a possible fix is to try to run some Concentrated Chevron Techron (NOT the Proguard stuff, the Concentrated stuff) make sure you get the 20oz bottle. And try it with 2 tanks of gas in a row (one bottle of Chervon each time). That seems to work for most folks.
I think we need to forget all this TOD talk. I figured if the fronts were on asphalt and the rears on ice, then one could pull the parking brake (making the rears need more torque) which would then give the front more torque at the 50/50 split
FYI: I fully understand part-time systems like TOD in Low. The engine doesn't have to work twice as hard when running in low. A couple basic drive train rules, neglecting drive train loses: Horsepower is constant through a drive train and torque varies with gearing along with rpm.
Hey gang, I picked up my New Trooper on Saturday. I'm sooooooo happy. I love it! I thought it was $19,500 ended up being $19,995. It was listed as 22,995. with 7000 miles. I still think I got a deal. I picked the truck up in Dayton,OH, I live in Indianapolis which is 120 miles away. Excellent drive home. Here's a few questions I have.
1-I put new batteries in my second remote because I didn't realize it didn't work before I left the dealership (purchased from Honda Dealership) New batteries still didn't work. Someone said I need to program the 2nd remote is this true?
2-What type of oil should I use? 3-I need a cd-changer any suggestions? Thinking about bidding on a 6 disc changer(Pioneer)@ ebay. Does the factory system support a Pioneer changer? 4-The power button any suggestion about when to use it? I drove back from Ohio with the button on.
So far I'm riding high! Everyone agrees that the Trooper rides like a car.
Also, I had a great experience with RoadLoans.com very helpful.
Here are the programming instructions for '98-02' Isuzu Rodeo and Troopers... Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper (with factory keyless entry) Instructions for programming
1. Get in car and make sure all doors are unlocked. 2. Open drivers door and leave open. 3. Put key in ignition. 4. Turn key to on position(dash lights on, but do not start) and back to off position 3 times in 5 seconds or less. (you must turn the key very fast) 5. Close and open drivers door 2 times in 5 seconds or less. 6. Turn key to on position and back to off position 5 times in 5 seconds or less. (turn key very fast) 7. Close and open drivers door doors should lock and unlock twice after this happens push the lock or unlock button on the remote, doors will lock and unlock. Push the lock or unlock button a second time and doors will lock and unlock again. You are finished!
The above sequence erases all previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote, you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of turning the key to the on position and back to the off position 5 times in 5 seconds or less, do it 3 times in 5 seconds or less and then continue to step 7.
***Remember to turn the key to the on and off position very fast.
As for the cd changer here is a link to the CD interface cable.
This will work ONLY with Eclipse products, and your current deck needs to have the CD changer controls ... you could buy the factory indash CD for about 100-150 used from http://www.car-parts.com and then hook it up into your current deck, again as long as it has the changer controls.
bluedevils: Thanks for the info from you on this subject. The vin didn't have the info I was looking for, but I've compared the features on the vehicle that I may purchase, with that of the standard equipment for the LS and the options. I'm pretty comfortable that it's an LS model. Now the negotiations will begin. I'll keep you all posted.
Wow, that's impressive! Not even a broken window or anything. I wonder if our towing setups would have made it worse or even better. Glad to hear you had fun 4 Wheeling, Paisan. Will be watching for updates. Also, Ryanendres, thanks for the remote entry reprogram info. I had it done at the dealer when I bought mine (for free obviously) and I can verify that that's exactly what it looked like they did. So, I have printed your info out for future reference. Also, ToddsWagner, I had a heatshield come loose on my Subaru once, the dealer made it sound like a big pain in the [non-permissible content removed] (probably to make the hour worth of labor, or whatever it was, seem reasonable), but they ended up just having to weld it back in place. No problems since.
I'm sure it would have helped the trooper cause. My bar would have pushed even more into the LS400! It's nice to use regular cars as your crumple zone.
I would like to hear what you come up on the resolution to the PING you mentioned. Is it a PING, as in pre-ignition valve noise, or is it a light knock as in valve lifter noise? You mentioned it started after changing oil and I'm not sure how the two could be related. I have started experiencing a little PING and valve lifter noise as well. The PING has been related to BAD gas, low octane. The valve lifter noise just started and I'm going to take it to the dealer for investigation. It's still under 60,000 miles, so it's warranty work.
On that heat shield rattle, I've been plagued with that as well. I've found that metal hose clamps do a pretty good job of stopping that awful buzzing noise they make. Happy Trooping !!!
OH congrats to all you NEW Trooper owners! Aren't these just the GREATEST vehicles!
I am in the market for a used SUV to be used off-road in Colorado during the Spring/Summer months. I have been told that the Trooper is one of the best off road performers. I was curious what the folks on this board think, why and whether you would recommend a used Trooper. I was also interested in any tips you can offer in selecting a used Trooper (e.g., problems to look for). I'm guessing I'm looking for something with high mileage to fit my budget ( $10K max) so longevity and reliability are also concerns.
You're talking to the right folks about a used vehicle to go offroad with. As you can see from this board, there aren't any GENERIC problems with Troopers. They are rugged, roomy, and durable. You can get a lot of Trooper for $10K. The best availability as far as variety is probably Ebay. Check em' out. Theres all kinds on there from new to mid eighty's models. Good Luck with your search. If you spend a little time reading messages on this board, you'll get a good feel for Trooper reliability and know quirks.
I'm not an expert on old Troopers, but in general they are very durable and capable, though not an abundance of power.
I have heard that, for off-road use, the most desirable version of the old boxy ("first generation") Trooper came with 4.77 gears and limited slip rear diff.
You can get a 2nd gen trooper probably around '96> If you could find one with TOD even better. I just took my stock trooper offroad in NC. I put at least 2-3 Jeep Wranglers that were Modded to shame. Took me 1.5 attempts, took them 5-7 attempts over the same obstacle (Proving Grounds Obstacle on the Rocky Mount Trail @ Uwharrie)
It looks like good things happened to the Trooper in 1998 - more HP, more torque, less weight. You guys know all this. I'm just showing off so I can ask a few dumb questions.
My first is whether offroad is better/easier etc with a manual or an auto. As you can tell, I'm not into this sport yet, but my cabin is at 9,000 ft and the trout are at 12,000 ft +. I'm going to learn, one way or the other. So, a little friendly advice to a rookie would be appreciated.
Since I want to stay around $10K, and assuming I want the goodies the '98 model brought to the Trooper, I'm going to have to go for high mileage (100k +). Any reservations out there about a high mileage vehicle? Are there maintenance items that I should insist on (timing belts etc).
Belts should have been done at least 1x. Autos are good for off-road, but manuals are also. Manuals allow more engine braking. The TOD on the '98> Autos is also very very nice. Especially in mud and slippery conditions.
In anticipation of a purchase soon, I am looking for people who have experience with the third seat in the Trooper. My dealer's part manager said they have only ordered two seats in over two years. They said it takes about six weeks to get it through their parts department. I don't believe it should take that long. Has anyone out there ordered the 3rd seat from littlepassengerseats.com? If so, how long did it take? Has anyone tried the do-it-yourself installation? Thanks for any info.
At least your dealer will do it. Every dealer I've dealt with has said they refuse to buy them because they aren't DOT inspected for the US and don't want the responsibility of re-selling them. An active guy on here has the little passenger seats.
Do you happen to remember what the correct spec is for the front alignment (which: cast or camber...?) when using the taller springs? I have the OME springs as you know, and need to re-align the tires to correct the extra wear on the outside of the tire.
I'm preparing to put some new 265/75r16 Pro Comp AT on my '99 Trooper. Have you heard any good or bad about this tire? It is rated for severe weather (snow and ice) and has a 50,000 mile warranty. Suppose to be quiet also.
BTW: my '99 now has 44,000 miles on it with absolutely nothing wrong/no problems. Still no significant oil usage at all using the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic (10w-30) and the Pur One filter. I run the oil about 7500 miles with a filter change at the halfway point. Still love the OME springs/shocks and Sway-A-Way bar combo.
Mine didn't need any re-alignment after the OME lift. It wasn't signficant enough to throw off the alignment at all.
The Pro-comps are ok. A good friend used the Yokohama Geolander AT+IIs this weekend at uwharrie in thik caky mud w/o a problem. I'm going for either the Scorpions in 275-70-16 or the Yokos in 265-70-16.
At their website, littlepassengerseats.com says that their seats meet Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards established by the Department of Transportation. What do you mean when you say they aren't DOT inspected? How can the manufacturer insist they meet these standards if they are not DOT inspected? Does this mean the manufacturer tested them but DOT does not?
I believe the owners manual indicates the timing belt should be changed at 100k. So if you go with a trooper approaching 100k, check whether it was done and the cost of that replacement.
I noticed on the one pic that the door got bent. The rear bumper bar (see Matt's indepent4x web site) may have saved that from happening. I have a rear bumper bar on the hitch. When I take it off when using my receiver for towing and don't put the bar back on the same day, I feel a little unprotected.
Well I was referring to the OEM Isuzu 3rd row. It is available outside the NA market and isn't available here because it hasn't been tested for DOT use. I'm not sure if or how the littlepassengerseats.com have been tested for the DOT. I would feel perfectly comfortable using either the OEM ones or the litlepassengerseats.com ones. My point was that most dealers won't import OEM ones if they aren't available as an option on NA Market due to the liability involved in selling a part that could come back to bite them.
Comments
-mike
-mike
I found a cheaper interest rate! No co-signer
Also, BLUEDEVIL AND BSMART THANKS FOR THE INFO. I don't get the 10/120 warranty because it's not a new vechle and it's not froma Isuzu dealer. I still get the 5yr warranty. I don't plan on driving it that much because I still have my ole' reliable HONDA Accord with 162,000 miles.
GADKINS1- I'm sorry to here about you XL-7. I too test drove this mini-SUV. very impressed. The only reason I didn't push the issue on getting this vechle was because the TROOPER is more roomy. I don't think you could go wrong with a TROOPER. Everyone in this club gives great info. about where to find helpful TROOPER hints.
-mike
I can't believe this thing ALREADY needed pads and rotors turned, AND
it needs TIRES again..... All this and it only has 93,000 miles on it! Can you
believe it! Rear brakes on this 5000 lb SUV only last 93k miles....
This is my 2nd set of Tires, they only last 47k miles each!
Seriously now, I did end up getting the Edelbrock IAS shocks installed. I know
I could have gone MUCH cheaper on those. Initial reaction is good, but my
wife drives the rig more than I do. I will let all know if I have an impression either
way on these. Spent $69.99 each.
So with 90k miles service complete and new brakes, shocks and tires coming this baby
will be good for many more owner satisfied miles!
Congrats to us Trooper owners!
Gadkins1
Now about that Trooper pricing in the North vs. the South. It sounds kinda fishy to me. My Trooper was stickered at $29000+ and its a S Model 2WD. I'm in the South and all we had available down here were 2WD models. They did have a $7500 rebate allowance going on them, so that brings the price down in the 21K-22K range you mentioned. Maybe ISUZU dealers are showing pricing from different states, some including the knockoff for the rebate already included, while others are not.
If you saw a Limited or LS model there in NJ for about $30K, it sounds like a pretty good deal to me! Down here these models sticker at about $35K-$37K. Again, this could be tricky depending on if there is a rebate involved. If you're serious about a Trooper, its worth asking all these questions.
Happy Trooping!!!
These just came in about two weeks ago, I was surprised to see them get such a big shipment of '01s this late in the year. No '02s yet.
Most of the dealers down here have internet sites where you can check their inventory. We're only about a 6 hour drive to most of PA.
The drain plug appears to be a 24mm unit. It's "hollow" in that there's a small round/cylindrical magnet in the center, with the threads around the outside of the bolt. While trying to tighten the plug last night, it broke off. Approximately the top half of the threads are stuck in the hole and the rest of the threads are still on the bolt/drain plug.
The drain hole is 99% open (the drain plug head did NOT break off in the hole), so the fluid drained out.
I'm out of town now (Grand Rapids, Mich.) and only local Isuzu dealer is closed today. I want to acquire the part ASAP even though I cannot pursue a repair until tomorrow at the earliest.
I'm hoping that the broken-off threads can be removed from the hole (by some "tapping" procedure my dad described) and that the entire rear differential housing/drain pan/whatever the thing is called that the drain and fill plugs thread into does not need to be replaced.
Your help advice is appreciated. Please, hold the wise cracks until AFTER I get this problem resolved!
I spent the last 2 years with an Expedition. As much as I hate to say it, what a piece of crap! When the warranty ran out last month, I started seriously looking for a replacement.
I have owned 3 Isuzus before, two I bought new from the dealers. The first was a 4x4 pickup (84, the first year they had 'em under Isuzu's name). Drove that for 100,000 miles, then sold it to a friend of mine. He's still driving it.
Had another pickup that ended up with 160,000 miles and was still running strong.
I bought a loaded F-150 4x4 in '91, and in '92 sold it and bought an Amigo 4x4. Best car/truck/whatever I ever owned. Sold it when it got to 100,000 and we had our 3rd child (only two seatbelts in back). Bought a used Montero, okay but lots of nitpicks. Traded that on a '98 Expedition 4x4. Talk about problems!.
Anyway, here I am, back to my old standby Isuzu.
I hope that I will get the same great service and dependability with this Trooper as I have had with the other Isuzus. Reading all of your posts helped me make up my mind. (the incentives didn't hurt either). I'm looking forward to keeping this one a long time. And my wife likes the Trooper better because it's not so damned BIG!
So all I need now is a 3rd seat. Also need to get a CD player installed. Any thoughts on whether to cough up for a real Isuzu one?
Thanks for this forum. I'm glad to know I'm not the only Isuzu fan out there, and I'm happy to join the happy Trooper owners club!
I have been looking at the 2001 Trooper LS 2wd and took one for a test drive. My impression was that it was a very well put together vehicle that would be a good value in todays market. I am looking for some opinions on the value and quality of these vehicles on how well they hold up and last. I currently drive a 98 Ford Explorer XLT and have put 85000 miles on it and really enjoyed that vehicle. However, it appears to now be 'nickel and diming' me every 5000 miles on something new: thermostat, oxygen sensor, etc. Does anyone out there have a good comparison between the two or comments on the durability of the Trooper?
Thanks,
Tom
Regarding dealer lowballing on trade-in, this is quite common. It is the reason why I never trade my vehicle in to the dealership. It's also the reason why I am skeptical about people who report what a great deal they got on their new vehicle: if a trade-in is involved, the price paid for the new vehicle part of the transaction is meaningless.
You will not likely get a great price on the new vehicle AND a fair price for your trade-in. The dealer typically will make sure it does well on the trade-in part of the transaction since it's harder for the customer to tell what a fair price is for a used vehicle than for the new vehicle. Why? Because there are many more subjective factors in determining the value of a used vehicle (condition, demand, how much the dealer can sell it for, etc.) and it's therefore easier for the dealer to make money on a used car than a new one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Also, the Isuzu customer service folks will help you with this information as well. Grab the toll-free number from the Isuzu web site (www.isuzu.com).
As for PING....
I have/Had it (and a handfull of others here too) ... a possible fix is to try to run some Concentrated Chevron Techron (NOT the Proguard stuff, the Concentrated stuff) make sure you get the 20oz bottle. And try it with 2 tanks of gas in a row (one bottle of Chervon each time). That seems to work for most folks.
-mike
FYI: I fully understand part-time systems like TOD in Low. The engine doesn't have to work twice as hard when running in low. A couple basic drive train rules, neglecting drive train loses: Horsepower is constant through a drive train and torque varies with gearing along with rpm.
1-I put new batteries in my second remote because I didn't realize it didn't work before I left the dealership (purchased from Honda Dealership) New batteries still didn't work. Someone said I need to program the 2nd remote is this true?
2-What type of oil should I use?
3-I need a cd-changer any suggestions? Thinking about bidding on a 6 disc changer(Pioneer)@ ebay. Does the factory system support a Pioneer changer?
4-The power button any suggestion about when to use it? I drove back from Ohio with the button on.
So far I'm riding high! Everyone agrees that the Trooper rides like a car.
Also, I had a great experience with RoadLoans.com very helpful.
-mike
Here are the programming instructions for '98-02' Isuzu Rodeo and Troopers...
Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper (with factory keyless entry)
Instructions for programming
1. Get in car and make sure all doors are unlocked.
2. Open drivers door and leave open.
3. Put key in ignition.
4. Turn key to on position(dash lights on, but do not start) and back to off position 3 times in 5 seconds or less. (you must turn the key very fast)
5. Close and open drivers door 2 times in 5 seconds or less.
6. Turn key to on position and back to off position 5 times in 5 seconds or less. (turn key very fast)
7. Close and open drivers door doors should lock and unlock twice after this happens push the lock or unlock button on the remote, doors will lock and unlock. Push the lock or unlock button a second time and doors will lock and unlock again. You are finished!
The above sequence erases all previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote, you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of turning the key to the on position and back to the off position 5 times in 5 seconds or less, do it 3 times in 5 seconds or less and then continue to step 7.
***Remember to turn the key to the on and off position very fast.
As for the cd changer here is a link to the CD interface cable.
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/audio-etc/isu-98-ecl.html
This will work ONLY with Eclipse products, and your current deck needs to have the CD changer controls ... you could buy the factory indash CD for about 100-150 used from http://www.car-parts.com and then hook it up into your current deck, again as long as it has the changer controls.
http://www.anltd.com/wreck/
-mike
Jim
-mike
On that heat shield rattle, I've been plagued with that as well. I've found that metal hose clamps do a pretty good job of stopping that awful buzzing noise they make. Happy Trooping !!!
OH congrats to all you NEW Trooper owners! Aren't these just the GREATEST vehicles!
Thanks in advance.
Elight 50
I have heard that, for off-road use, the most desirable version of the old boxy ("first generation") Trooper came with 4.77 gears and limited slip rear diff.
-mike
My first is whether offroad is better/easier etc with a manual or an auto. As you can tell, I'm not into this sport yet, but my cabin is at 9,000 ft and the trout are at 12,000 ft +. I'm going to learn, one way or the other. So, a little friendly advice to a rookie would be appreciated.
Since I want to stay around $10K, and assuming I want the goodies the '98 model brought to the Trooper, I'm going to have to go for high mileage (100k +). Any reservations out there about a high mileage vehicle? Are there maintenance items that I should insist on (timing belts etc).
Thanks.
Autos are good for off-road, but manuals are also. Manuals allow more engine braking. The TOD on the '98> Autos is also very very nice. Especially in mud and slippery conditions.
-mike
-mike
Do you happen to remember what the correct spec is for the front alignment (which: cast or camber...?) when using the taller springs? I have the OME springs as you know, and need to re-align the tires to correct the extra wear on the outside of the tire.
I'm preparing to put some new 265/75r16 Pro Comp AT on my '99 Trooper. Have you heard any good or bad about this tire? It is rated for severe weather (snow and ice) and has a 50,000 mile warranty. Suppose to be quiet also.
BTW: my '99 now has 44,000 miles on it with absolutely nothing wrong/no problems. Still no significant oil usage at all using the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic (10w-30) and the Pur One filter. I run the oil about 7500 miles with a filter change at the halfway point. Still love the OME springs/shocks and Sway-A-Way bar combo.
Thanks for your help!
The Pro-comps are ok. A good friend used the Yokohama Geolander AT+IIs this weekend at uwharrie in thik caky mud w/o a problem. I'm going for either the Scorpions in 275-70-16 or the Yokos in 265-70-16.
-mike
-mike