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Comments
-mike
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All you do it unscrew the trim bracket at the back door so you can lay the drill template over the bare floor. Mark the holes and you have some flexibility where the holes go to position the seat slightly to one side or front to back a little bit. Mark the holes again after measureing everything again. Then drill the holes. Install the brackets from under the floor there is plenty of room under there to reach the bottom of the floor. The brackets will stay put even if you unbolt the seat from inside, that is the "Easy" remove for cargo space feature still requires you to remove four bolts. Put the carpet and trim back down and cut holes matching where the holes in the floor are. Place the seat in its final resting place and reach under the seat inside the Trooper to bolt it down with the four bolts. The seat works great.
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The dealer can do it or any body shop would do it probably for less than the dealer. Maybe you have a mechanically inclined neighbor that could use a six pack of beer in trade for some hand holding or doing it for you.
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Then the final half hour as the kids and mom ooh and aahh over the new seats and pose for pictures in it. My kids love my Trooper. They always prefer the Trooper over the minivan even though the minivan has more space to strech out.
Robert
Thanks for the step-by-step install instructions for the seat boxtrooper. What sealant or silicone product did you use on the bolts where they went through the metal floor? I am going to try it myself (with help from my drag racer brother--69 Mustang 428 Cobra Jet). I'm going to try to get express delivery service from littlepassengerseats.com. Then, I'll be in the market for a flip-down TV and video cassette or DVD package.
-mike
5,500 miles and 10 months after buying it, I'm still finding things on this truck that make me glad I bought it.
Regards,
Charlie
2004 Rodeo:
Tralblazer chassis
Trooper/Axiom Drive-line
Isuzu Body/Interior
2003 Trooper:
Yukon/Tahoe SWB chassis
Isuzu V8 possible diesel option.
TOD/Isuzu driveline
Isuzu Body/Interior
-mike
BTW I just received my Sway-A-Way torsion bars, haven't put 'em on yet though, weekends are booked...
-mike
paisan, did your EGR valve fall under warranty? If not, what was the cost to replace it? I've heard from a few folks that a bad/plugged/etc. EGR valve is a common cause for pinging/knocking.
Replacement should be easy, it's right on top of the engine against the firewall.
-mike
I'm too am curious about the reprogram of the computer for less pinging and more horsepower. Is it specific to certain year models?
Oh, one last note. What kind of mileage are you folks with 2WD Troopers getting? My new 01' went on a trip to the Ozark Mountains with me last weekend and I can't believe the numbers. This was my first trip out with it on the open road, and boy am I pleased with how it drives. Takes the hills beautifully, handles very solidly in the curves, and has plenty of passing power. Road noise was minimal, windshield noise very low. Made this trip most enjoyable. I couldn't believe how quickly the miles blew by and how quickly I arrived at my destination. I really wanted to just keep on driving, even though I had been on the road a couple hours! Happy Trooping !! ;->
I had it in 2wd going down and back with no speeds less than 77mph most cruising was done in the 85-90mph range. Got around 17.5-18mpg which isn't bad for that speed.
-mike
Thanks...
The soultion has been to use Concentrated Chevron Techron for 2 tanks of gas. The higher octane gas works for awhile but all your doing is masking the real problem.
PC
I think that the PC upgrade is good for all +98 Troopers, VX's and Rodeos. I know paisan has had his PC flashed already. More HP??? I don't think so. Help with PING??? didn't help mine.
Check here for an easy trick to increase your MPG
http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum15/HTML/001125.html
It did not take me 3 hours though, more like just over 1 hour. The passenger side was easy,
the drivers side rear was difficult.
It was hard just to get the "coil pack" screw off to get to the plug. Then I think I used a
socket, long extension, short extension, 3/8 to 1/2 converter and ratchet to get just the
right length to get it out.... Good fun.
The plugs I removed had the center electrode worn away to a thin point too! I have never seen
this before? Any ideas why this happens on Isuzu engines?
I replaced the plugs with Denso's, same that came out, and the electrode was significantly
missing from the old plugs.
Plugs are cheap, and relatively easy to swap on Troopers, so why not do them at 50K or even 30K intervals.
...at 7-8pm Pacific/10-11 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/isuzuchat.html
Where did those of you who already made the change get your new Nippondenso plugs and about how much did you pay? The only source I can find is St. Charles at about $6.50 each. For some reason only one local auto parts chain even carries Nippondenso and they cannot (will not?) order the platinum plugs.
Does anybody have a suggestion for another brand? I have read that the Bosch Platinum 4's are a bad choice for the 3.5L. I don't know if that is correct but would appreciate any feedback.
Nice meeting you at the Uwharrie meet. Guys, if you ever get a chance to do one of these trips, I strongly recommend it. Great group of people. Anyway, I've got the OME's and after installing them, I cranked up on the front torsion bars to get even lift. Somehow, I got things out-of-wack and the truck started pulling to the left on the interstate. I had an experienced tech adjust the height and alignment and now it rides great.
After spending the weekend spinning my stock Goodyear Wranglers in the greasy clay, I got the itch to put on something more agressive for the GA clay I encounter. Does anyone have experience with going with 31's - 35's with 15 inch wheels or is it better to stick with something like a 265/75R16 on stock rims. Since the stock rims are 7 inches wide, this limits the size of tires that will fit the monstrous wheel well. Looking for a tire that I can also cruise on the road without driving me crazy, so the swamp boggers are out. Tires that come to mind are the Pirelli Scorpion's, BFG T/Ako, and Yoko Geoloander's. Any experience with how these affect the trooper ride, drivability, acceleration? I don't want to add too much unsprung weight, so if I replace the rim I want to go with an alloy wheel.
I was pretty hell bent on the Pirelli Scorpion ATs in 275-70-16 on the stock rims, but after last weekend I'm thinking of 265-70-16 Yokohama Geolander ATII+ cause jason did very well with them on his Migo.
-mike
I would scour the brands for a compromise MT tire that isn't TOO aggressive, but has a more open tread pattern than an AT.
Robert
-mike
Now about that mileage I mentioned last week that surprised me. I have around 1100 miles on the new 01' and I'm not babying the engine. I understand babying it can lead to oil consumption down the road. Anyway, I'm seeing 20mpg on the road and about 16/17 in town right now. I'm pleased with it. Happy Trooping !! ;->
Steve
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I assume I changed the plugs back at 60k miles when I did the timig belt, etc. So that would mean these plugs were withering away at 32k miles?
Prior to changing the plugs I was getting just over 14 mpg. After changing - back up to
16.1 mpg on my last fill up.
The attitude of the driver is good for AT LEAST 1.5 mpg (which in 10%!). My wife (the lead foot) who fears-not the gas pump, gest >15 mpg. I was babying the car and got 16.1 in a mix
of street and highway driving.
Edelbrock shocks still good! New tires coming....
For those of you who already did a plug change, was the rest of the plug condition consistent with overheating (for a plug condition chart see - http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html)?
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The news I have so far is....the voltage dip is normal by design on this year model. It's there for maximum acceleration purposes. There's a slip clutch or something in the alternator that unloads it under acceleration unless you have your lights on. Sounds wild to me, but they were adamant about it. I know this was the case on my 1988 model, so I guess its true.
As far as the rear end goes, they admitted it needed more LSD additive, which they installed and its working fine!
The theory on the lifter tapping is excessive varnish on the valve lash adjusters. They quoted a service bulletin on this one. We'll see. The fix is run the vehicle at 2000 rpm with Mobil 1 0W-30 weight oil for 30 minutes. The oil costs $54 for 6 quarts!!
On the timing belt replacement, the price quoted was $459.69 which includes the tensioner pulley. This price can be adjusted if they have to open the engine to do something to the lifters.
On the Bosch Platinum plugs, radman6 is correct about the center electrode size. It is tiny. But, I've had a set of them in my 1988 Trooper for years now and they have performed just fine. That is what I put in my 97' as well earlier this year and they have been working great. So I don't know that I would panic if you have them in your engines and they perform correctly. If you have symptoms like he mentioned, it would be worth investigating. Happy Trooping !! ;=>
valves for (god knows how) many miles now!
Please share the info.
Thanks!
Unless to you style is glamour as in women's high pointy heel shoes which are stylish to some peoples eye but universally painfully disfuctional.
-mike
If you're having problems with miss / hesitation and you're running these plugs - you might check them for fouling and try a different brand of platinum plug.
If you're looking for new plugs for a higer mileage engine that burns a little oil - there are probably better choices out there for the same money.