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Side question: Notice any change in MPG with Revos? ....My mileage is on the low side as is with GY Wrang APs now.
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To buy back the "salvage" as they call it, would cost me $1050 and somewhere the taxes get lost so they would take $5720-$1050 and get $4434.75.
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I have a visit scheduled from the local truck salvage yard to let them bid on buying the "salvage" of my 1995. If they offer more than $5720-$4435=$1285 plus a margin to make it worth my time to sell it to them they will get it. Otherwise the insurance company will pick it up after the title has been signed over to them.
Any recommended manuals, books, etc?
Thanks!
Might have to do the sway bar bushing replacement. I keep reading that it makes a significant difference.
I also have a question about the tranny flush issue that has been discussed recently on this board. I was thinking of doing a flush in the near future (I'll probably be around 55K miles or so), but now I'm wondering if I should do so. I've never had the tranny flushed before -- just drained. Is it too late to do a first flush at 55K miles? Some of the posts above suggest that if the transmission has significant mileage on it and hasn't been flushed before, I should avoid flushing it. But how much mileage is too much? If anyone has any additional thoughts on this subject, I'd appreciate reading them.
Look a your engine from the front. On the left you will see a tensioning pulley for the belt on a spring loaded swingarm. In the middle of the pulley there is a bolt head. Put a socket and breaker bar or socket wrench on the bolt and crank to the right. Instead of the bolt turning, the whole swingarm will swivel, loosening the belt...slip the belt off of all the various pulleys and then install the new one using the reverse procedure.
It is slightly tricky to get the new belt positioned on all the pulleys, but if you get someone to help hold it in place that will help...although I was able to do it myself. Just remember to make a drawing of the belt route before removing it.
Just to be safe though I suggest you at least do an initial check of the fluid.
If it looks really bad, you may want to only do a partial fluid change, a pan drop, and a screen/filter change to remove the loosened junk. Then maybe wait a while (a few months?) and do a complete flush/filter change.
If the fluid looks slightly bad then maybe do the flush but also drop the pan and change the screen/filter. This is probably the official Isuzu approach.
If the fluid looks reasonably good then maybe do the flush. Or, if you want to be more careful, you could just do a partial fluid change again. Then, wait a few months before doing a complete flush.
Just my hopefully helpful thoughts. But then again I am not a real mechanic so your mileage may vary and new ATs are very expensive so be careful.
-mike
I did this this past weekend, and it took about 5 mins. I bought the belt from St. Charles for 14 bucks with free shipping.
-Ryan
My Mazda had a lousy transmission built by Ford that ran way too hot and wasn't heavy duty enough for the car IMHO.
john
ryanendres-do you have a website for St. Charles?
Thanks for all your help!!
We paid an Isuzu dealer to replace the serp belt in our 98 Trooper (3.5L - same engine as your '00 Troop). Cost was $70-80 - fairly high, but worth it to me.
There are about 8 different listings under for that at JC whitney. My guess is this:
1992 - 2000
Isuzu
Trooper
"BB" One-pc. Trailer Light Connector with Converter (A)
Each
07ZX0194U
$26.99
Would that be correct? Will that include everything needed?
The harness you need will depend on your intended load.
Mike's right, the installation process takes less than 5 minutes. You may want to add a small plastic box under your bumper to store the wires when not in use. I picked one up at NAPA for under $10.00
-mike
David
I'm adding an XM tuner next week and wanted some feedback on antenna placement. My options are as follows:
roof mount (flat box)
roof mount (short plastic point)
bracket mount (short rubber antenna)
window mount (short rubber antenna)
I am leaning towards a flat box roof mounted just in front of the rear spoiler, but I wonder if the "trucker" style would offer better performance.
Any input or past experience would be great.
Thanks - Lee
I am already about to put close to $1000 into fixing the AC and I only paid $2500 for the vehicle. It runs great but it gets really hot w/o the AC on (poor me).
I have read it is easy to do, just remove a kickplate of some sort and lay on your back and you should see it easily...
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The finance company needs 5 days to sit on their hands with the new pay off check, then it takes them five more days to mail the title release to the guy I bought the Trooper from, who will fedex it overnight. Considering that weekends do not count toward those delay days, this is about a two weeks and a couple more days proccess. So my ten day tag will probably expire then I can go get another ten day government permission slip to drive my new Trooper.
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I am still not used to the new feeling of the manual shifter.
My mechanic quote me a price of $517 for the same compressor online for $320 - the only difference I could find was his description said compressor & clutch and the online parts description said AC compressor. Is the clutch automatically part of the compressor assembly?
If so the description clearly notes it includes the clutch assembly.
I personally wouldn't pay that kind of money for an unnamed, remanufactured unit but that is just me. Also, do yourself a favor and read the fine print at this site (e.g. "1-Year Warranty (parts only) except for compressor warranty - Buyer must have a proof of purchase of new dryer / accumulator").
I suggest you go to a a/c specialty shop and see what they can do for you. Or, try St. Charles Isuzu as they have excellent prices on all OEM parts.
Where is St Charles Isuzu? Is it a website? Can you provide the web address?
Steve, Host
I ordered a new blower motor from St. Charles Isuzu, but now I wonder if it is the blower, the switch, a relay, or something else?
I always bump the pressure several lbs. plus over the factory suggested settings to start with - but not exceeding the max cold inflation pressure of the tire for street use.
I went around and around on the shocks and in the end just went for simplicity of ordering at the same time thru Tirerack and simplicity of design. I'm just looking for solid predictable performance and longevity.
Thule Hitching Post Pro 934 - $170.
Here are my reasons why:
1. It folds down far enough so the doors can both open all the way without having to remove rack from hitch.
2. It clears the spare tire with an inch or two to spare and it doesn't appear that any kind of wiggling will cause it to scrape.
3. It has two arms to hold the bikes, which I think is more stable than one.
4. The two arms also fold down when not in use so you can leave the rack on the truck without having to worry about the 3 ft poking out the back of your truck.
5. The brand is reputable.
Could it be a fuel filter?
Where is the fuel filter located?
Thanks,
UNi
My '99 seemed to be "surging" on upshifts, like it was holding the gear and then sling-shotting the truck at times. I had a transmission flush and that problem has since gone away? I also had a problem with my intake manifold gasket, which may have caused the computer to adjust driving and also caused this? The two services were done too close together to be sure which one fixed it.
-UNi