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In all seriousness, though you can get an SAFC which will adjust the timing and you *CAN* get more power by adjusting the timing. The problem is that you need to run a higher octane fuel to achieve this. Thus you will get more power, less milage, and fuel costs that are about $2.50-$5/gal
-mike
Checking/replacing the PCV valve is very easy. If you can blow air freely through the valve in one direction but not the other, then the valve is probably fine. A replacement only costs a few dollars at any auto supply store and is trivial to install.
I hope my post sticks around for you to read, here is a photo of the EGR:
-mike
I think some noise from it while in operation is OK.
Thanks.
The 5MTs you can only use the 4wd on non-paved roads/snow covered roads, there is a rear LSD but that's the extent of the traction control involved with the 5MTs.
-mike
Ryan, if you could send paisan the writeup so he could post it on his site, that would be great.
off-roads during short time only. If 5MTs Trooper is what you'd buy, probably, you should think about 2WD model instead 4WD.
I used my 99 trooper w/auto tranny, w/TOD all the last year with "non-winter" tires, just simple "all-season" . So that was fine.
But I'm sure, non-TOD t-case is more robust 'cause more simple.
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In the 2001 2wd/4wd is advertised as an on the fly thing you can do.
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In the 1995 if you want to shift 2wd/4wd on the fly then first from a stop engage 4wd and drive forward a few meters, then as long as you don't back up, the auto hubs stay engaged, while the auto hubs are engaged you can shift 2wd/4wd on the fly for example when the road is moslty clear but there are patches of ice.
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In all Troopers you should only shift 2wd/4wd or 2wd/TOD while all four wheels are turning the same speed as it going straight and not spinning a tire.
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I went to great length to get a manual 5 speed replacement for my totaled 1995 manual 5 speed because I like the fun of shiftng.
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Comparison of manual transmissions in Troopers:
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1984 4 speed manual was best easiest shifting transmission I have ever driven in any vehicle. 70 MPH = 4200 RPM One time I was stuck so good that I could not turn the tires, only burn the clutch be revving to >5500 and stepping off the clutch pedal.
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1995 5 speed stiffer (cushioned stiff feel) than the 1984, but very good feel, no problems. It worked easier using RedLInOil.com's MTL transmission fluid. 70 MPH = 3100 RPM
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2001 5 speed as stiff or stiffer (bare metal hard stiff feel, feels efficient for the transmission) than the 1995 and the MTL made less of a difference in shifting effort. This one has a weakness: When in 3rd gear, if you did not place it firmly enough in gear it can pop out of gear. 70mph = 2700 RPM
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On all three after a month I hardly realize I am shifting. The 2001 has a bunch more torque than the 1995 and feels lighter to drive overall. On all three I have had the clutch last the life of the vehicle.
I've had an '86 and a '99 both 5-speed. The '86 shifted smooth as silk. I wanted a 5-speed so bad on my '99 that I purchased a base and added an aftermarket stereo, leather, fog lights etc.
I was looking at rodeo sports the other day and was surprised that a 5-speed is only available with the 4-cylinder engine. That's ashamed, a 5 -speed 3.2 combo sounds like a lot of fun in such a small package.
Thanks
Thanks!
The manual describes a process with an ohm meter to test the resistor, not sure I can convey it with words, but I'll try.
Remove the connector. There are 5 terminals shown - 3 in the top row, and 2 on the bottom row with a empty space between. From left to right, top to bottom, they are numbered 3, 2, 1, 6, 4 (5 missing).
At fan speed switch position 1, test between terminals 1 and 2, should be 2.4 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 2, test between terminals 2 and 4, should be 0.90 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 3, test between terminals 2 and 6, should be 0.28 ohms.
At fan speed switch position 4 (high), test between terminals 2 and 3, should be no resistance.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Jim
I tried this weekend again (before you post) and just couldn't see it.
Thanks
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I also found that the former rental Troopers had mis-matched tires, example one or two of the tires on the ground were a different type.. strange.
As far as features? If you are set on an LS's features then you need to be sure you are getting what you want. I have an S with auto/TOD. I am not sure what options the LS had over the S, but I cannot imagine a lot...perhaps leather seats? The cloth are wearing well in my 1999.
If you want you can swing by and look at the manual, it is much easier to understand the diagrams than me verbalizing it.
With some manufacturers, you can go the the service tech and give them your VIN and they'll print out the vehicle's "build sheet". Has anyone done this out of curiosity regarding the used Trooper they bought?
Another thing to look for, the "LS" models typically have manual seat height/angle adjusters on the driver side, both have armrests.
BTW, I may be getting a 2002 LS, 19,000 miles, looks, smells, and feels band new, for an incredible $13.5k. All depends on how much I can get for my 99.
Remember me the one with the 265,000 KM on the 94 Trooper with the ticking engine.
I was concerned about driving it 500 miles to the dealer, but it didn't seem to bother it, it just ticked it's way there. The noise got louder to the point where I had to do something it was driving me crazy.
It turned out to be the Timing Belt Tensioner. Replaced it and all is well in Trooper land.
Thought I would let you know, it sure sounded like lifters, but it seemed to be coming from deeper down in the engine. This is the 3.2 DOHC.
flin4
For the differences in the models, I held out for the LS. An LS should have 6 disc CD, power retractable/heated mirrors that match paint, 8 way power/heated seats, mesh wheels, a huge sunroof (option), etc.
ARB or IPF makes/carries some regular wattage low/high beam aux lights that might be good for driving. Check out
www.arbusa.com
Cheers to all.........
-mike
I had them on my nudge bar, and then moved em to my ARB Bumper afterward.
-mike
All suggestions are appreciated.
I think the only issues are - that you get the application area clean of dirt and wax (i.e. clean and use the included alcohol swipes), that the item uses a quality tape such as 3M, and that you get it exactly where you want it the first time as once it attaches it is not easy (or even possible) to move.
Good luck, I HTH.