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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
WE just helped a fellow Dak owner last week who was suffering from the same problem, except the only thing he did was install a "high performance" air filter. In his case he got way too much oil on the filter element. It had coat everything from the air filter housing to the throttle body. After four cans of a spray carburetor cleaner we got everything back to normal. He installed a Mopar air filter and his 4.7 is now idling like glass.
By the way, these high performance air filters will only provide a slight increase in flow at the extreme end. Newer factory induction systems nowadays are so well designed (usually) that they are efficient through the entire engine RPM range. On the Dakota you might gain a horsepower or two at max throttle. Not much of a valuable performance increase to normal users.
Best regards,
Dusty
On engines that use the Mass AirFlow (MAF) sensor, the oil from those "high performance" filters will DESTROY THE MAF SENSOR. Leaving you with a hefty bill to replace the MAF sensor.
BOTTOM LINE: Those oilable filters are not a very good idea.. there is no measureable gain for normal street driving BUT there is measurable problems associated with using them.
Bests,
Dusty
I have a 98 Dodge Dakota, V6 3.8l. The engine is having a rough Idle. The truck was sitting about 6 months with out driving. I filled up the gas tank with new gas and added some of the octane boost/injector cleaner. I have also cleaned the air cleaner and throtle body with no imporvements. I am having issues just at the idle position. Other than that the engine runs fine at operating speeds. Any suggestions?
There are many causes for a poor idle quality from spark plugs, air filter and PCV valve, to other ignition components; vacuum leaks and sticky valves or other combustion chamber issues, to a clogged catalytic converter and or throttlebody.
These are a few of the things that should be checked in order to diagnose your problem.
Regards,
Dusty
This might be the chance to install a 360 Magnum motor of your choice. Small block Mopars make plenty of power and torque, and will fit to existing Dakota pieces.
Best regards,
Dusty
A few months ago I had the Dodge dealer look at my drivers' side window for chatter in the up position, After lubricating the power window regulator (which resolved the issue) I noticed that on occasion I would hear a slight rattle noise emanating from the door. This winter is became more pronounced on cold mornings and/or before sufficient cabin heat.
Anyway, during a recent warming trend a couple of weeks ago I removed the door panel to troubleshoot the rattle. I adjusted the door handle operating rods by slightly bending them. This appears to have resolved the rattle.
However, during re-installation of the door panel I noticed that a triangle-shaped foam gasket that is surrounding the opening in the door frame for the power mirror had become loose and was out of position. This gasket appears to have adhesive coating on the side that is suppose to mount to the door frame. I pushed it back into position applying enough pressure to get the adhesive to secure it.
After reassembly and the subsequent road test I realized that a whistling sound that only occurred when I had the passenger window down between 1-4 inches was completely gone!
Best regards,
Dusty
majordomo@dakota-truck.net
Ron
Well, I've been in several "rental cars", some 'cheap', some not so 'cheap'. I would rather drive my '05 dak than any of them.
Certainly, there is a possiblity that you have gotten hold of a problematic vehicle out of the bunch, but what you are stating is not by any means what has proven to be the norm.
And, most certainly, I have not experienced any of the things you quip about in either of my Dakotas.
I wonder if there is a REASON that the Dak has reverted back to rear drums starting in 2005?
while replacing my clutch, I snagged my clutch slave cylinder and broke that fantastically "strong" plastic fitting where the line connects to it. No problem, so I thought, until I found out that Dodge charges $200 for the unit (master and slave in a sealed unit) Ouch!!! not good! So I obtained a third party unit that turned out to be only the slave cylinder.... My problem is how to remove the old cylinder---anyone have any tips??
Thanks
Virtually ALL non-US named vehicles have a pushbutton so the driver can control when the AC compressor is enabled.
The book says that you can change whether the power outlet is on 24x7 or only when the truck is on. (I think it said you can do it to both plugs in one thing I read)... But I cannot find anything that tells me how to do it.
How is this done? (I need to change my dahs outlet to "always on"
Thanks,
Mike
Regards,
Dusty
Needed something to do tonight!
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks,
Mike
The alert light of the rear ABS is on and the speedometer only begins to work starting from 60 MPH.
I believe that the problem is in the speed sensor.
Am I correct?
Which the difficulty of changing that sensor ?
I looked in the distirbution box (I guess that is what we used to call the "Fuse box") and sure enough it was there. Kind of like moving a jumper, but the fuse itself was the jumper. Position 22 is the power outlet fuse. If it is to the engine side it is on with the key, if it is on the fender side it is always on.
Hope this helps others.
Mike
From Dusty:
"Hmmm, interesting. My '03 Dakota service manual states that power is available to the power outlets at "all times." Except, I know that this is not the case on my truck. There is only power there when the ignition is on. I've looked at the wiring diagrams (for my '03) and I'm suddenly suspicious that full-time power may be accomplished by moving a jumper in the Power Distribution Center.
Needed something to do tonight!
Best regards,
Dusty"
Bill
Any signs that the transmission is overheating? Although it would be my last suspect, a automatic transmission could cause engine overheating.
Regards,
Dusty
I had the same problem. It seems the system is very sensitive to any loss of coolant. Check your radiator cap (when cold, of course!) I found that on mine, the rubber seal on the underside which contacts the inner flange of the radiator was distorted and allowing coolant to pass, thus not holding the proper pressure. It wasn't a dramatic distortion, just enough to allow a leak.
Bill
Bill
regards &later cookie :confuse:
Before this all started happening the gauge never moved. I haven't driven it up the mountain to see if gets hotter or not. I'm starting to think the radiator needs power flushed, or replaced. :confuse:
QC, Dakota. Since I was putting off some needed main. I changed plugs, airfilter,
and cleaned throttle body today. I taking it to the dealer Monday, so what should I expect? O2 sensor? I have extended warr.
The sensor is mounted on the differential housing, and access is pretty easy. You have to remove a nut that holds the brake line clamp, and lift off the brake lines. Next, you remove the stud that they were bolted onto. This will free up the metal shield and the sensor. Remove the metal shield, (lift the front edge over the plastic tab on the sensor body) and you can rotate the sensor body to free it up. It is just slip fitted into the housing, and sealed with an o-ring, but mine had some built-up crud and corrosion above the o-ring, so it took a little "convincing" to get it out of the hole. Carefully! wipe the built-up crud out of the hole, and pop the new sensor into the hole. I used some motor oil to lube the o-ring. (I don't know if this is recommended or necessary, but my new sensor was "reluctant" to go into the gunked up hole, and I don't have the facilities to pull the rear axle housing, remove the gears, etc. and clean the hole properly...)
If so, try some higher-octane fuel. That will most liekly cure pre-ignition.
The reference to "gasket on the intake pan" may be suggesting that air leaking into the intake plenum will cause the engine to run lean. This will also cause pinging.
One way to check the engine is to do some sparkplug readings. Often that will give you an indicator if the engine has been running lean.
a lemon!
When we try to start it, there is a clicking noise in the solenoid (which I thought was the starter clicking), but the starter will not turn over the engine.
We were able to jump it and get it running for about five minutes, but then it died and would not jump again. We are completely baffled as we are not engine repair people, but need to do as much on our own as possible.
Any input would be great...
2) Take battery to auto-parts place to be tested (replace if needed)
3) start engine and check charging voltage with all electrics on
After all above is good, then start checking for what is draining the battery while parked.
We replaced the battery last night and installed it. The voltage meter shows it's charging around 16 volts. The alternator was deemed working off the truck, but we are going to take it in tonight to see if it registers working attatched to the truck. For some reason the people we are working with feel the computer is not telling the alternator to run (in place of a traditional voltage regulator) and so the battery is being used up within a few days.
We were told last night about the computer wires possibly making a problem for this vehicle. Any experience with that?
Thanks again...