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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
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I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota 2wd V6 with approximately 115,000 miles on it. Just this past winter and spring my truck would make the roaring sound maybe a couple times a week first thing in the morning and last 2-4 minutes. While I had my truck in for a full tune-up I complained about this noise and they replaced the fan which they said had rusted out. Now I hear this noise every single time I start my truck, whether it is the morning, after work, or after being off for only a short errand. It lasts a shorter period of time usually only a couple of blocks or a minute or less.
I have read the posts that state that this is just a normal thing, which I would be fine with if it had always done this or it was only doing it in the temperature ranges people have discussed. However, this has only been happening about 6 months and the every single time I start roaring has only been happening about 3 weeks. I live in Central Ohio where the temp has been anywhere from 70-90 lately.
Any insight or suggestions that anyone could provide would be quite helpful.
Thanks, Kelly
Question is: Do you think the line pressure switch would be at fault or somewhere else in circuit. Intermittent electrical connection? I'm about out of ideas. Havent taken it to dealer yet, would like to have some idea if possible before I start trying to deal with some mechanic that may not be too sharp.
Truck also has set up a lot....I bought it last October and at time of the problem had 3800 miles on it so guess that is a possibilty also.
Thanks for any advice.
Jerry
Hmmm. This condition could be caused by a number of things, including a blown IOD fuse, failed Throttle Position Sensor, electrical wiring problem, failed TCM or a TCM that's lost memory.
The P0700 is a "Transmission Control System Malfunction." I don't list a P0841. Are you sure of the code? Anyway, the P0700 tends to make me believe you've got a TCM problem.
Since this is an '06 and within warranty I would strongly recommend that you take this to a dealer.
Regards,
Dusty
The P1391 is Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP. This is further evidence of a potentially intermittewnt connection between the PCM and the vehicle.
I'd advise going to a Dodge dealer where the familiarity and experience might expedite this repair.
Best regards,
Dusty
Yes, please post the solution.
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks
Deb
Since it just happened the one time and seemingly cleared itself I'm thinking perhaps just a momentary bad connection on the switch. Do you think it's possible that it just stems from the fact that the truck has been run so little lately and maybe a solenoid stuck for a few seconds ?
I know I'm asking the impossible here but I value your opinion and before I go to the dealer I want to be prepared.
This morning I replaced them with Pioneer TS-A1681R speakers. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! This is the best that radio has every sounded!
Dodge wants well over $100 a speaker for the originals, but I got this pair of Pioneers, brand new, from a seller on EBAY for $56 delivered. I also had to buy a set of adapters, also from EBAY, for $10, because the OEM Infinities have 3 mounting ears sticking out of the speaker frame.
The 1681's normally sell for over $120 a pair, and are 4 way, 260 watt, as opposed to the factory 1 ways, 50 watts. I would have to recommend these speakers to anyone who wants to replace their factory speakers.
BTW...'97 Dakota....running great, no problems, and just made its second trip to the dealership...this time for transmission fluid, filters, pan gasket. I was starting to get a few drips on the garage floor. I may keep this thing forever....only got 66K on it after 9.5 years.
Thanks
Deb :confuse:
Good luck
Deb
I've been having a few problems with my 2000 quad-cab 4.7, Dakota in the past week. In the beginning the truck stalled on me and the engine light came on; I was able to stabilize the car by simply shutting off the AC; but I still had an erratic rpm needle. I quickly pulled the diagnostic codes from the odometer which where: 1491 and 1282.
1491: Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit
1282: Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit
I went to AutoZone and found out that the relays in question are identical and swappable; which was kind of cool. The cost me 11 bucks each, I bought three of them just in case. And so I thought I was well on my way to fixing my problems. I removed the old relays and popped in the new ones. I started the truck and the idle was back to normal, I was thrilled! But the engine light was still on; so I pulled the negative cable from the battery to reset the light. When I reconnected the battery the engine light was still on. I ran the on-off routine to check the codes again and this time I only got one diagnostic code 1491. I thought to my self how could this be I've just replaced the relay then it dawned on me that I had not tried the Air conditioner yet. So I turned the truck on (it purred) then I hit the AC and the idle needle went berserk! Then the engine stalled. Ah nuts!
As a side note, when I pulled the Radiator Fan Relay I noticed that it had signs of being hot, I could see on the sides of the relay how it had taken some heat.
So at this point Im not sure what to do, I could use some good advice here.
Any ideas?
If the headlights are on only with engine running... this may not be a big deal... DRL is known to save lives and is not a bad idea to turn on lights anyway.
There is no real consistency to the conditions under which it will do it, and when it won't. In fact, it did it this morning, but not yesterday.
The Dakota uses a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans utilize a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to ait temperature.
The viscous clutch fans used by Chrysler on the Dakota are classified as high efficiency type, as opposed to older designs used by auto makers years ago. A unusual artifact of this type of design is the fact that often...but not always...upon start up the clutch fan will be fully engaged. When working properly the clutch will release within a few seconds of forward operation when the fan begins drawing cooler air through the radiator. As soon as the thermostatic spring senses the cooler air the clutch will release and the fan will spin freely. When this happens you hear the noise stop.
Best regards,
Dusty
eric
The cooling system is more heavilly loaded with stop-n-go, slow traffic due to little airflow thru radiator and low engine speeds (waterpump is slow).
Given the above, you need to ascertain WHY the temp is going up when the cooling system has the LOWEST load on it.
Given the age of your Dak, there are several things that should be checked out.
**)Are the radiator fins intact and not corroded?
**)Is coolant up to proper level?
**)Is there buildup of crud plugging the system?
**)Is waterpump moving the coolant? (check belt tension)
**)Does thermostat function? (soak in hot water with thermomator and observe operation)
Since the system was opened you need to make sure that the radiator has sufficient coolant.
Regards,
Dusty
However, when they tried the "jumper" trick described in #4227, the engine turned over fine and started and the problem hasn't repeated (as of today, Monday). While in Minneapolis, I spoke with my nephew who had the pickup for 3 years and also with the neighbor down the street who showed the nephew how to start the car. The technique is to take a piece of what looks like 14 gauge insulated copper wire like the kind used to wire outlets in the house, strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from either end and use that as the jumper. Then, near the battery, there is a push-in connector that, as I remember, has a red wire on the male half of the plug leading toward the firewall and maybe the ignition switch, and on the female side another red wire leading toward the battery. The technique is to pull the connection plug apart, stick one of the bare copper ends of the jumper into one of the two connector sockets on the female half and then turn the ignition switch to "on" and then touch the positive pole of the battery with the other bare copper end of the jumper. That engages the starter and starts the engine. My nephew says it was foolproof.
This pickup has been to two or three garages and one of them replaced the ignition switch and some wiring that runs along the steering column. The other two garages charged big bucks for changing every electrical part possible connected with the ignition system except for the solenoid and the starter. The most recent garage is convinced the headlights were left on and the battery was run-down, and that was why the engine wouldn't start.
The neighbor thinks it is a starter problem and thinks the garages were wrong for dismissing that possibility. He said when he checked for voltage at a time when the engine wouldn't start from the ignition switch (after the switch and wiring had been replaced, and after the pickup had been starting well for several months) he found voltage up to the plug I mentioned above, but nothing at all beyond it, even the dashboard lights not working. On this episode of Saturday, my son and daughter said the lights on the dashboard worked fine.
We would all be very grateful for any ideas that anyone might have of what is happening.
anway.. bla bla bla isall i hear from my self so i'll shut up...lol
anyway here is my problem.. i just had the tensioner replaced. .. was charged 181 bucks for the part i realize this is too much.. anyway.. so not after paying the stupid bill...i'm stuck with a fan the is roaring like a woken bear. what is going on.. i checked the fan.. and it is actually loose to the touch.. it.. moves front to back.actually feels loose..was it the mechanic's fault for not tight'n properlly .. or is this a comcon problem the just has to be fixed every once in a blue moon????
HERE'S THE QUESTION: Will the bad gas cap effect the way the truck runs? I am perplexed because this rough running and backfiring thing had been going on ever since I bought this thing and neither I nor the mechanic can figure it out. I am getting really frustrated with it and any other help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
Another test is to spin the fan with a brisk motion. When fully warmed the fan should not rotate one revolution, and they typically move no more than one or two blades distance.
The noise is normal as previously described. I cannot offer a logical explanation at this time, except that maybe the belt was so loose that the fan was not receiving enough drive until the tensioner was replaced.
Best regards,
Dusty
The Dakota uses a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans contain a silicone filled coupling that connects the fan blades to the water pump shaft. This design utilize a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge air.
If the air temperature rises above a certain point, the bimetalic exerts pressure against a slip clutch and allows power of the water pump shaft to be transmitted through coupling to the fan assembly. This raises the speed of the fan blades and increases air flow through the radiator to provide increased cooling.
Sometimes after the vehicle has been driven to operating temperature the bimetalic spring may expand to the maximum coupling position due to localized heat from the engine or radiator after shutdown. After a cooling period the spring may not contract or contract fully. Upon restart the expanded spring causes the fan to spin at engine RPM until enough cool air has been drawn through the radiator, Then the spring contracts. This is what causes that momentary period when the fan is heard.
Testing the Fan Clutch Assembly
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag for more than five revolutions when spun by hand, the fan clutch assembly is defective. This test must be conducted when the engine is completely cool.
Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F.
There should be no perceptible lateral movement of the fan blades. If so, the fan assembly is defective.
Regards,
Dusty
I know that in over 6 years, my fanclutch has NEVER enguaged due to heat from the radiator. HOWEVER: my fanclutch enguages for about1 mile of driving when ambient temps are about 40 degrees. (this is also normal behaviour)The silicone fluid inside the fanclutch gets "thick" and takes some time for the centripital forces to move it around.
Mine engages at very low temperatures (winter) but releases by the time the transmission is in second gear, and it's always done that even on the one that Dodge replaced a couple of years ago.
Best regards,
Dusty
Now I am beginning to suspect it has something to do with the Neutral Safety Switch. The pickup has an automatic transmission, and the gear shift lever is a little reluctant to move easily at times. My daughter has found that jiggling the lever back and forth around neutral seems to take care of the starting problem.
If this is the problem, I am surprised that three garages didn't find it.
"Some vehicles combine the column shift mechanism and the mechanical neutral safety switch into one mechanical part. According to available information, vehicles known to be manufactured this way are most General Motors trucks, sport utility vehicles and column shifting passenger vehicles. Available information also indicates that pre-1996 Dodge Dakota pickups with 2.5 liter motors are also manufactured this way."
http://www.abtelectronics.com/images/products/BDP%20Images/N562P_6-03.pdf
At this point I’m stuck. I need some help on the next steps to take to go to from here.
It cranks but wont start or run it has no spark it has no antitheift device, the Neutral Safety Switch is will keep it from cranking. but not keep the spark from happening from what I believe.