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Also, are the multi-rib drive belt and water pump always changed or just removed to get to the timing belt and then put back on?
Thanks. :confuse:
They look to be close to 2mmx11mm. I can't seem to order them anywhere as a fuel injector seal kit online. And I'm having trouble ordering a kit of o-rings (this is all I really need) from an online hardware store that might have the correct size and type.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
Chris B.
Sick and Tire Mazda Owner!
Thanks all :confuse:
What is an interference engine? An interference design is such that the timing is just right to allow the valves to open into the cylinder where they share space with the piston. The valves must be closed in order for the piston to peak; the piston must be below peak in order for the valves to open. Interference engines may offer higher compression for this ability to bring the piston right to the top of the head. Conversely, if the timing belt or timing ever goes on an interference engine while running, the valves will all be shot from being mangled by the pistons still in motion. Non-interference engines are less costly to repair in this event.
When the car is moving, the car seems fine; when I come to a complete stop or a short stop & try to take off again, the idle drops & the engine jumps. I chnaged the coil sensor and it didn't help, so I am thinking the camshaft positioner sensor? Or any other suggestions??
:confuse:
Opinions will be greatly appreciated
enjoy the economy. Simple prevent maintenance and would
buy again.
Proud owner of a 95 manual 626 with 140K miles that gets about 32 miles to the gallon. Great little car but I'm not very handy mechanically.
Thank you.
I was driving my Mazda 99 626 (98,000 miles)on Sun and it started sputtering and then died out.I had the car towed home and it will try and start,but will sputter and die out without turning over.I changed the battery,plugs,wires,coil pack about 6 months ago and the PCV Valve.
neighbor,195K 5-sp 626 LX well cared for mazda but, burns 1QT.- 500 miles or so. 90% Hi way driven.
I was thinking intake valve seals like a
GM car.
Please explain this old school device,and
is it available to fit this mazda?
Do's it, if installed stop the oil burning?
Needing your adivce.....87WING
I have a 2002 626 V6 and when it's cold outside it is very slow to start. When it's warm or warmed up, it starts fine. It also starts fine when wet. I had a remote starter installed but it's useless because the car takes too long to start when it's cold.
What could the problem be?
Thanks a ton,
Casey
thanks to all in advance, Limbo and Lisa
I am forced to keep driving this car because the resale value is terrible, and with the current mileage the car is more-less worth next to nothing, despite its nice appearance and good driveability.
some-day...to becoming a member of that special club also.
p100,you've put all that mileage on yourself have'nt you?
THINK SNOW
or push the gas pedal to the bottom and try to start the engine. I did it and the engine started to run at the second start.
Each fan has its own relay mounted in the engine compartment, just in front of the relay box. You can test each fan motor individually by simply unplugging the fan motor leads and connecting them with alligator clipped leads to a 12 volt battery terminals. If the fan motor starts and runs, the fan is good. If it is good and the fan does not come on with A/C on, it is usually a faulty fan relay.
Note: these electric fan motors are expensive. I had to replace one fan motor on my car and the lowest price I found on the OEM part was $ 140 for the part alone. I tried aftermarket suppliers, but the motors are different sizes and they could not match it. Relays are relatively cheap: about $20 a piece from your Mazda dealer.
As for the rough idle, when were the ignition leads changed last? Injectors cleaned?
Pulling, or more commonly drifting to one side can also be caused by a faulty front tire. I had this happen to my '99 626 shortly after I bought it. Replacing the front right tire cured the problem without doing anything to the caster settings.
has anyone else had this problem???? If so can u please tell me what it might be..because I am so concerned
thanks,
amber
:sick:
So in summary, you did not run over anything to damage the sensor wheel teeth. That would be about impossible! Your "mechanic" is the most likely suspect here for the reasons I just mentioned. I cannot say with absolute certainlty if the pickup wheel is replaceable by itself, but I do not think so. Looks like you will need a new harmonic balancer assembly.
Note: I replaced the timing belt on my Mazda before and the factory shop manual has a specific warning in it about using a proper harmonic balancer puller in order not to damage the crankshaft sensor wheel teeth.
I found my way here looking for any answers to my problem I'll explain.
My car shudders/stutters when a starting out and trying to maintain a constant speed. It "shudders" in all gears while maintaining a constant speed; say 30mph . It is more noticeable in a lower gear and RPM. It completely stops above 3,000 rpm in all gears. I had it checked and it's not the clutch or transmission .I was going to check the fuel filter but am looking for more ideas.