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Thanks
A possible work-around is to block off the inlet ports, which should be under the grill between the hood and the windshield.
About a month ago... I stopped at a stop sign, and when I went to take off... it sounded loud.. like muffler loud. It's not loud in nuetral, reverse, or when the clutch is in. You can rev the motor and it's just as quiet as any new car out there. It's only loud when you are in a driving forward gear. The hubby checked the muffler and all that stuff twice.. no holes or anythin.
A week later... The car started spitting and sputtering... idleing hard, hard. Did a tune up on it... it run beautiful (but loud) for a week. then it started spitting again... brought it to Auto Zone.. (those guys are GREAT!) tested the car... got message that the o2 sensor and gas flowage thing... changed one of the o2 sensors.. drove nice (but loud) for another week. Spitting again....?
Other than...bring it to a mazda dealer(lost my job) any suggestions?
I wish I had some information for you. I have the same problem with a 92 protoge. Fuel pump does not run when the key is turned on. If i jump it it runs fine. Now I am also not getting a spark. I replaced the igniter, no luck. Returned the igniter and bought a distributor, fuel pump still would not run , car fired, stalled and again no spark. Returned the distributor. I also can get the pump to run through the diag. port under the hood. Pump also runs after cranking and key is turned off. Read in code book that if one of the sensors is shorted it can shut down the ecm without blowing a fuse or setting a code. I am hoping since your post was in june that you found the problem. This is driving me nuts. Please respond either way. Thank you.
Magic
Magic
All help would be greatly appreciated
thanks
:sick:
Greg
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801452e7.gif
there's probably corrosion in the bores of the calipers pinching the rubber bushings inward on the slide pins. Remove the calipers, work the bushings out, clean out any corrosion in the bores, coat the bores with silicone grease, then reassemble. Should be good to go.
Wait five minutes and it starts and then runs fine. And I can stop and start it without problem. Only when it sits for a day or so will I have the same problem.
Today it died. To experiment a little, I squirted some starter fluid into the air cleaner and it ran for a few seconds and stopped. I did that three times. Then after 5 minutes or so it ran fine. This means it is a fuel problem?
A helpful mechanic said with something like this he did not know how to figure it out. He said perhaps it could be the igniter or main relay. He said just start replacing things.
The distributer costs three or four hundred with maybe another hundred to install. I don't want to incur that expense it unless it is bad.
Can anyone help with this? Thanks in advance,
Rich
Huntington Beach, CA
So darndest thing - the problem can be either a fuel problem or a spark problem I guess.
Again, thanks for any help you can provide.
Rich
Huntington Beach, CA
I would like to say that i have found the problem, but no luck yet. I have tried replacing the igniter and the distributor. neither worked, luckily i was able to return them both. Distributor was $180and igniter was $100 @ autozone. I was able to return them because they were not the right ones Hint. I am not getting a spark or power to the fuel pump either. If you can jump out the diagnostic box under the hood and the fuel pump should run. As soon as find the problem I will post. I know it will be a simple solution, but I will be darned if i can find it. Scan tool says that any one of the sensors if shorted will shut down the ecm without generating a code or a blown fuse. That is my next step. Check each sensor. Good luck
Greg
You seem like you may have some imformation that i could use. I am working on a 92 protoge for a friend that has no spark and no fuel. I replaced the igniter, nothing so returned igniter and got a distributor car started ,stalled, and again no spark, luckily i was able to return the distributor. I changed plugs, they were totaly shot, i figure wires are pretty bad to, but whats with the fuel. the pump runs if i jump it from the diagnostic box. I am sure it will be an easy fix, but have been unable to locate. Have you had this problem? Thanks for reading
Greg
Yep. Change your plug wires.
Meade
Just a suggestion in case you tried to get them to work for only a few seconds. If this isn't the case, I have no idea what's up with your wipers.
Meade
Thanks
Yes. It sounds like a multiple cylinder misfire (P0300). Not being a mechanic I can only surmise the problem is happening in several cylinders and your mechanic is trying to detect which of the four cylinders are affected. What are its symptoms (sluggishness, strange noises, etc.)? Did it start happening recently?
Thank you for your response. After I did some research I contacted my nearest dealer in Burlington VT. I spoke with a service manager and the parts manager. They did confess it was pretty common problem. I ordered A relay and a resistor for 35$ it is located behind the glove box.
I sure hope this works. It was -4 this morning. Having the fan speed on 4 is a bit loud ....but I guess its better than no fan. Anyway I'll try and get some info from the dealer when I pick up the parts.
Have you had any luck with the sensor idea? This would work well with my situation - my Protege stalls after about 10 minutes when started from cold every time - a sensor would pick up block heat in consistent fashion, time after time. Let me know if you've had any luck with sensors. I'm thinking I'll just unplug one sensor at a time when my Protege dies - when I find the bad one, the car should run, right? Thanks again,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
To get to the point ...
About a year after I bought my Protege, Mazda issued a recall for the ignition coil. It covered 1999 and 2000 Proteges. No one ever found out why the coil was replaced -- the new one looked just like the old one too.
Has your dealer checked your VIN to see whether the recall applied to your car, and if so, whether it was performed? I would "assume" -- since you say you've been doing your diagnostic work at a Mazda dealership -- that this has been done, but hey -- you never know, eh?
Just a thought.
Meade
My "99es hasn't hit 60k yet. I will probably wait until ~80k to change the belt unless there is some other need to get into the engine.
More questions for you:
Were your previous tires wearing in a similar way?
Were the tires rotated during the 17K period?
What range of tire pressure (psi) did you use?
Did the dealer or someone else do the alignment?
Did you speak to the people who did the alignment?
Upon replacing them I noticed they still squeeled - a lot. So I rechecked the tension and all the bolts and they were to specs (both belts). I looked up the info on the autozone website, which said for new belts - 8-9mm is what they should deflect for new belts.
So driving home from work tonight, I noticed the lights got dimmer, then the tach/speedo stopped workinig, abs light popped on for no apparent reason while hitting the brakes, and the airbag light flashed on/off every now + then. From experience, the car seemed to be running off the battery and only the battery - which meant the alternator wasn't putting any juice. I'm assuming its the belt again, since the car was also starting to overheat slightly (alternator/waterpump belt).
Now, I'm going to get another set of belts from Mazda (I used belts from advanced auto, which looked kinda shady when I got them, but I had to put them on the car when its 20 or so degrees outside). If anyone could recommend a better way of doing the belts (I don't have a factory svc manual for the car). Like whats the proper tension, as mazda recommends.
The other thing that bugs me about the car, is that it didn't flash a Charging system light on the cluster whereas last time it did??
Also, the car randomly throws a Check Engine Light for something in the TCC Circuit, car drives fine, but that thing keeps flashing every once in a while after I clear it.
Well, anyways - sorry for the long post. I had a long day and this just added to it. Thanks.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Last night the car wouldn't even crank over, this morning she fired right up. Then after shutting it down a few minutes later, wouldn't fire up at all.
Looked at the battery and it was - to put it nicely - pretty old. Swapped the new battery in, car fired up no problem. Belt squeeling stopped, drove it around and the car was perfectly fine.
Untill, on the way to work, noticed it started to overheat - only on the highway (@ constant speed, low rpms). When driving locally (off the exit), car cooled down(??). Going out on lunch, car drove fine - didn't overheat or nothing - odd. Leaving to go home, started the car and let it run for about 20min before leaving - fine, fired right up, didn't overheat, no belt squeels, no odd noises (could hardly tell it was on).
Got on the highway going back home, started to overheat again (this time hitting the 3/4 mark and a lil higher), lights began to dim - but the car didn't do the christmas tree thing it did last night. Got home, car started to cool down off the exit (the heat it put out didn't change at all vs. when it didn't overheat), drove it home - car ran fine. Parked it, shut it off then tried to fire it up - again - battery seemed drained.
Possible alternator AND waterpump faliure??? Seems odd, the belts are still on and are as tight as they should be, alternator pulley and waterpump pulleys were turning when I checked it this morning (after the battery swap). If the alternator seized up wouldn't it burn or rip the belt after running for a few minutes? Atleast I would've smelled something odd. I know when the car is running with almost no charge, dead battery - wierd electrical problems occur (flashing dash lights, tach + speedo die out) - would it be possible that the temp signal gets messed with (or am I being too optomistic?). I dunno, this car has some wierd problems.
CLIFF NOTES:
-Replaced battery this morning, car drove 100% pefect.
-Car operated normal when driving on local roads.
-Upon entering the highway, car oveheats(??) and alternator seems to fail to charge the battery(??).
-Exiting the highway and driving locally (low speed + stop+go traffic) - car cools down(??) and runs normally.
-Getting back home, the car wouldn't fire up (battery drained) - this after putting in a new battery the same day.
I'm going to try and fire the car up tommorow, and disconnect the + terminal on the battery and see if it dies out, if it does - then I'll check the alternator. As far as the overheating issue on the highway, then cooling off when I slow down (which doesn't make sense to me). Thats another issue I would like to look at (since the wp is ran off the same belt).
Jumped to start, checked voltage @ normal idle.
-Battery Connected: low 13v, sometimes 13.5
-Battery + Disconnected (alternator): 13.5v varies up to 13.8v
-Battery Only: 12.5v @ the battery
Running ONLY off the alterenator, car idles + runs. Upon putting any electrical load, the car stalls out. Hitting the brakes was enough to almost stall it. Headlights on, forget it - car stalled instantly. This is all by running off the alternator (battery disconnected). I'm going to look into another alterenator (more $$$ spent on this thing :lemon: ) unless there's an external voltage regulator (which I doubt ).
Check the instructions online at http://protege5.ugly.net/
However, I rotate my tires every time I do an oil change (at 5,000 miles), so it's not been a problem for me. I did notice faster wear when I had the tires at 34psi. Dropping that back to 32psi took care of that.
You can adjust the camber to be more neutral, at the expense of some handling prowess. But if longer tire wear is your goal, then that will help. So will staying close the 32psi inflation pressure.
Thanks!