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Anybody know where I should look and how easy is it to replace them? Maybe recommend a website with pics that could help me? Thanks in advance!
The '95-98 models have a distributor with wires that go to the plugs. Yours may be distributorless, I don't know.
You might want to vacuum out the spark plug wells with a small tip nozzle before removing the plugs so that no junk falls into the cylinders. Also, make sure to give the plug wires a good push onto the plugs. It should make a popping sound if they are on good and tight. Finally, use a light coat of anti-seize compound on the new plug threads. This will make it easier to remove them next time.
Bosch plug wire are around $50 and come with a lifetime warranty. Make sure the plug wires (when installed) don't touch either the valve cover (hot) or any hard edged component. Use the seperator clips provided and/or electrical tape. Slight wear on a wire's protective insulation over time will cause a plug wire to fail.
Make sure to put the plug wires back in the same location you removed them so as not to mess up the firing order. Have fun!
I installed the relay last night and after a short test drive, declared the problem solved.
This morning, I headed of to work and for the first 20 minutes everything was back to normal. The engine was operating smoothly, temp was at it's normal operating level.
And then, the needle pegged. Not gradually either. I opened the hood and saw that the coolant in the overflow tank is boiling and overflowing.
So now I'm wondering what else it might be? I've ruled out a bad water pump (the engine temp would have continued to climb), I don't think it's a blown head gasket either, so I'm thinking maybe a plugged radiator?
Anyone else have any suggestions?
Thanks.
I had a similar problem, but I never saw that reservoir overflow. If those 2 cheap fixes don't work, I would still check compression. The radiatior should be okay considering that it still is only a 5 year old car.
Have you flushed the coolant on a regular basis?
I figure I've pressed my luck as far as I want to with the water pump and timing belt.
Here is what I have done so far:
New plugs
Wires are fairly new and look good
New distributor cap and rotor.
Cleaned throttle body
New air filter
New fuel filter
Checked for restrictions and or cracks in air hose.
Checked vacuum lines for cracks ect.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
I've tried to research this a lot, and naturally found a helluva lot of things that it could be. I was wondering though if a clogged/dirty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve/system could cause this buzzing, as this has given the car fits before. Something else that's weird, all this time the A/C has been on, but this morning when my wife drove to work, she turned the A/C off and the sound was dramatically quieter. Thoughts???
Im scheduled to take the car in later this week, but I was hoping that someone out there could at least give me a heads up as to what this could be, and if there would be anything I, quite inexperienced with cars, might be able to check out beforehand. Thanks a bunch in advance!!!
My problem(s) approximate messages 2881 & 2642 (ROUGH IDLE ISSUES): Out of nowhere my car started stalling in drive when I pulled up to a stop sign or light (in DC traffic this is a killer). Also, I noticed that the RPM would move from 500-800-1000 and back on down (I assume this is meant when folks say rolling). Then the check engine light went on. I took it into a place that I trust (I am new in Silver Spring, MD but had to do a Maryland State inspection and was charged nothing). They replaced the plugs, cables, and cleaned the fuel injector (plus the hook-up fee) in response to the P0300 multiple misfire issue.
Well, I got it back after $400 (oil included because it was time anyway). The mechanic stated that the O2 sensor (he said there were two and this was the second one) was going and on its way out—but I could change that later. I drove it out of the shop and around a bit. It did not stall. BUT it still had the rolling idle slightly and RPM sank to 500 with a small rattle. I brought it back and stated my car had not been “tuned” to the point I want it to be. They told me to drive it around a bit. Well, the next day the engine light came on and I took it back. The service area was closed but I made the worker call the owner so that I have it documented that the light came back on.
Summary: Fixed plugs, cables and cleaned injectors in response to a P0300 error.
Car does not stall but shimmies at a stop (while in drive) and engine light is now on).
Like I have stated, I have read, with great enthusiasm, the posts on this topic thus far and am looking for advice as to how to best proceed with this repair (meaning what I should insist the mechanic look at –and not-). I don’t think I could find the IAC valve solenoid on my own (one post here sugggested and I clean it) and I am further inclined to believe that this is a good thing. We love the car and want to keep it forever. Any advice would be great.
Thanks. Matt
I recently had my 02 P5 in the shop for similar symptoms. When I described the situation to the service rep (check engine light appears; rough while idling at a stop) he said: "It's probably your EGR valve, we replace lots of them as they get fouled by dirty gasoline." The technician ran a diagnostic and reported a P300 code (random cylinder misfire detected); a new EGR was installed (curiously the EGR malfunction codes are in the P400 range). Since then the P5 has been working properly. I have also heard that it is wise to get a throttle body cleaning every couple of years to clean out the gunk.
Best of luck and keep us updated.
Got the car back today. Mechanic said he cleaned the AGR valve and it was a little rusty--but OK. He said it was working.
My wife drove it for 15 minutes and it still shimmered. he did not charge us anything for it. He asked for 1 more day.
The first time I took it in he said 1 of my O2 sensors had strange readings. We'll see. I wish I know a trustworthy garage in this new town (Silver Spring, MD) that we just moved to. I am steps away from taking it to the dealor.
Thanks again for your comment.
I think dealerships get unfairly berated sometimes (and no, I don't work for one). Who would know more about a Protege -- some shop that sees one a year, each with a different problem, or a dealer's shop that sees several a day? And if you check labor rates, the dealerships and shops are all about the same these days. Plus a dealer is more likely to know -- or have better access to -- TSBs related to your car, and they'll probably have a better warranty on new parts -- plus you'll get real Mazda parts, not NAPA equivalents.
Nowadays there are other reasons too. My 2005 Mazda3 always goes to the dealership, even for oil changes, because the dealership gave me free oil changes for the first 36,000 miles. Even after that, it's still a good deal to take it to the dealer -- an oil change is only $24.95, and they provide a free loaner car if I don't want to wait around. Also I got free tires for life, as long as I do my maintenance at the dealership. I'm coming up on 25K miles and my first set of tires that I don't have to pay $700 for!
Meade
my cousin who used to be part of a Mazda Miata in a Detroit club who stated just about the same thing. I think you are absolutely right and I am going to take it to the dealer if it is not OK after tonight.
The shop is going to install a new EGR valve at the cost of the part ( I saw the receipt and what they paid for it) w/no labor charge since I had already paid for a tune-up. If it still does not work, after a replacement EGR valve, plugs, cables, fuel injector cleaning, I was also told by a Mazda mechanic to disconnect the battery cables (not a simply reset from the dash) because there may be electronic demons in the computer. I will loose my radio presets but should otherwise be fine (this was the FIRST thing I should have done). Note: I have not done this yet so people reading should NOT take this as a solution.
Thanks again for your advice. This site is great. Thanks to the moderators.
Matt
Did anyone diagnose your problem, or are they just throwing parts and services at it? :confuse:
Thanks
Robo2
Meade
Luckily, I have a good parts car that I can swap alternaters if needed. Parts car has a 1.8, mine a 1.5. Looks like it would swap out ok.
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We acquired a 1997 Protege from my brother-in-law last year, and it has been running well until about 3 weeks ago. This car has a security keypad where we have to enter a 4-digit number before the car will start (I believe it was not original equipment, but was installed at the dealership when the vehicle was originally purchased).
The battery appears to be fine, as headlights, radio and other electrical components will come on. There is not even a click, however, when the key is turned in the ignition. In this condition my only option appears to be having it towed to either a Mazda dealership or the mechanic that usually works on our automobiles. The problem can certainly be with some other component, but it sure seems like the security device.
Any suggestions?
I'd have it uninstalled. Most of those aftermarket systems go squirrelly after a few years.
Meade
primary. The secondary was 13.3 KOhm with the spec about 10-16 KOhm. I am getting positive battery voltage going to the coil.
Any ideas? The Haynes manual kind of stops at the coil. :sick: coldje@msn.com
thanks.
i suppose i'd drive and then come to a stop and see if a wheel is hotter than the rest.
Does the car pull to one side? How do your tire threads look: are they all uniform or are some tires worn more in a certain edge? When did you last balance and align your wheels?
Thanks
maybe a bad engine mount resulting in excessive torquing or movement when getting on /off the gas?
I had my mufler worked on and the same thing happened to me, but my car won't start at all.
lazonav@hotmail.com">link title
Basically, if I drive it and then turn it off, I cannot physically turn it back on for at least an hour. I don't know much about cars so excuse my lack of auto-jargon, but it turns over when i turn the key but nothing happens, the car doesn't actually turn on. i've been told it's a problem with the fuel injection, i've been told it's the radiator, i've been told that it's overheating, i've been told that it's this and that... agh! but anyhow, now it's getting to the point where i can be sitting in traffic and it just shuts down on me and it WILL NOT turn back on, leaving me stuck in a turn lane or something. i've been told that it's overheating, but the coolant gage has never read more than half way in between hot and cold... does anyone have any suggestions???
i desperately need help, i know i paid too much for this car and now it's getting to the point where i'm afraid to drive it... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
It turned out to be the Camshaft Position Sensor.
I got the Haynes from an Autozone store. In front of the book it has a trouble shooting section and I think it mentions the problem that you are having. I don't have the book with me or I would look for you, but it list the parts to check that could be causing the problem.