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Volvo S40
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By the way, I have found that if you lock and unlock the car (from the outside) and/or wait several minutes, then it will start.
On the 2nd visit, I had the dealer look at the other problems -- the 12v power outlets in the car stopped working on the 4th day I had it and the ignition problem described above (start,stall, start, run).
When I picked up the car I asked the mechanic what they had done to fix the ignition problem. He replied -- Nothing. He advised me that I needed to use 87 Octane from a brand-name gas station. I explained that I had filled the tank with 87 Octane from Exxon. He just shrugged. I explained that my internet research led me to believe that there were many people having the exact same problem. He admitted that was so and that Volvo had no fix for it but that they were working on software upgrades that would be out in 2 months. Evidently they are blaming the issue on the summer gas blend now for sale at gas stations in my area because it evaporates in the line/injector.
In my state, 4 visits to fix an unresolved problem triggers action under the lemon law. I'll be stating as much when I contact the dealer this week seeking relief.
Invoice of @$29,700.
You can put anything you want on a leased car, you just can't residualize it so it has a dramatic effect on your payment.
1) The passenger airbag light came on and told me to get serviced immediately - I took it in and they said it was just a software solution. They fixed it and has not been a problem since.
2) The CD player does not work occasionally when I switch from radio to CD - I have to turn it on and off, or take the CD out and reload. Really annoying, but happens only occasionally. I have taken it in for that.
Here are some issues I'm having that I don't think relate to manufacturer problems, any suggestions are appreciated.
a. smell inside the car, at first I thought a smoker had driven it before I bought the car. The dealer replaced the cabin filter and sprayed some stuff into the vents. This helped for a few days, then it came back. It sort of smells like cigarettes, but also like just musty odor. Could it be bacteria in the air compressor, or a blocked A/C drain? Does anyone know where the A/C drain is located so I can see if it is functioning? Any other thoughts. This is really bugging me!!
b. the car seems to want to pull to the left sometimes. The dealer test drove and said it seems fine, but at low speeds it sometimes can pull pretty strong to the left at higher speeds it seems to go away. Could it be a brake pad sticking, alignment, out of balance wheel, or something else? Any thoughts? Thanks.
I also think the short overhangs give the 40 a very dynamic look. I'm into just my first week selling them,but the S40 is by far one of my favorite Volvos.
Can't wait to get the car back and here's to hoping this is the end of the issues.
However, since the difference between reg unleaded and prem is usually 20 cents/gal you will only save $3.00 per tank.
Hardly worth it. There are other ways to save money, like maintaining the proper tire pressure and limiting the time the car sits idling, combining trips etc.
BTW, we got ours back from the shop today after being in for a week and a half to diagnose and replace the fuel pump and fuel pump control module.
can any one surgest what could be wrong as i need my car for work every day oh by the the way i live in the uk
and then stalls after a second or two it fires up ok and might last a day or three
can any one over the pond help me please
I am new to this forum and I was wondering if someone could help me out. About 6 months ago I purchased this car and to this date it only has a little over 4300 miles on it. From the first day I got the vechile I had problems with it, the 1st minor problem was that the 3rd brake light that sits on the window had moisture it so the dealership told me to bring it down so they could take a look at it. So I did drive it about 60 miles to the dealership and all they said they did was open that area and wiped it down and said all is fine. About 2-3 weeks later the stereo system starting to not work, so then again had to take it down and they service said that there was a misfire in the code and all they did was reset it. Keep my eyes on that situation even when I brought it home it did it a couple times again. And now it brings me to the situation I am at now which is I had to take my Volvo in last thursday 10/20/05 because the check engine light had come on that tuesday. So I dropped it off at the dealership and they told me that they will have an answer for me on Monday 10/24/05 when I called them they still did not know what was wrong with my vechile but they did say they had a specialist looking at it. So how long does that take? Don't they have a machine to help they with that? Well any ways following day I called and they said they had to change out my spark plug and some other things in the engine already. I was puzzled for a new car these things shouldn't be changed yet, correct? So finally service manger calls me up and said that the reason the check engine light came on is due to bad fuel and caused the check engine light to come on, but based on talking to him he was not sure if that was the actual cause of it. I am at my wits end and need some advice. Is a week long enough to have the car fixed and if not have a answer to the problem. If not do I have a right to request the dealer to give me a new vechile? I am tired of the games they are playing with me.
Problem: car starts fine in the morning, I go to office, after 4 or so hours I try to start it again and I have to crack it a couple of times to start the engine. This has been happening for the past two weeks. Last week the car would not start at all. took in to the dealer, they replaced the idle control valve, cost me $370. Idle problem fixed but still have the start issue. Any ideas. This never used to happen. I thought the dealer would be able to fix the problem but they don't seem to be the experts they claim to be.
miles , daily i put about 100 miles into it , i really like the engine performance , but what i hate about this car is that its to dam sensitive if you use the wrong type of gas for a while the check engine light comes on , ive owned this car for about 1 1/2 year since then ive replaced the breaks 3 times rotors once , transmission revolution sensor once that ended costing me $600.00 , well the problem that ive started haveing lately is my car takes a long time to start i have to crank it for several seconds before it starts i lived like this for 3 weeks i replace every thing you name it , come to find out it was something very simple "fuel pressure regulator" since they replaced it havent had a problem since car feels that it has more power when it starts , i was told by the repair person that this is a common problem with volvo's ,i hope this helps someone , i just wished that i knew what the problem was before i spent $800.00 in parts ,
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am the owner of 2000 Volvo S40. So far I getting several problems through out the years I own this car. Now, I am facing big issues, similar to transmission problem which is going to cost my arms and legs. This is problem, the car runs very slow at below 30 MPH, I steps on the gas paddle but it just can’t go fast as before. When it hits about 30 MPH it will run fine without problem. Does anyone had similar problem or anyone know how much it cost to fix the problem?
Many thanks,
=D=
thanks
Brake dust is probably getting trapped between the pad and rotor.
Once a week when you are cleaning your wheels you should spray the cailpers.
i have an 05 S40 2.4i w/ sport package and it does this as well. i brought my car in for routine maintenance and told them to check this problem. they replace the rear calipers as well as the pads on the brakes. they should replace these under warranty.