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I was wanting to know if the buick century for a 1994 would work in a 1995 buick century. Same eng size V6.
Thanks for your help...
THis morning went out the radiator was dry as a bone. Put in coolant and it started to leak in two places underneath. Rear side on drives side and about the same side on the left.
Two questions: My friend says I probably blew the intake manifold and after reading the boards I can see that as an issue. From what I am describing above is that the issue? Is there a way to check the intake manifold to see if it is the culprit?
If it is not intake how would I tell if it is the head gasket?
Thanks again and I know have this place bookmarked.
Thank you all.
However, it looks as your car is way beyond pressure test. Car mechanic will see where it leaks from with with naked eye.
which sure appeared to mechanically sound 1994 Buick Century w/high mileage
162,000 miles. I keep thinking that a car with that high of mileage has got to
be facing something in repairs and yet reviews I've read on the car have been
favorable. The owner knows the high mileage is a drawback to selling the car
but insist that the recent inspection and emissions test clearly show the car
to be in good shape. The transmission doesn't skip the engine sounds good.
Should I risk considering the purchase of this car? The owner is asking 1,200.
I would appreciate some feed back from anyone who may know something about
high mileage cars and the risks involved.
Thanks, Gitman
with high mileage. I know that $1,200 doesn't seem like much to spend but if I
was facing something high in the cost of any repairs that goes up quickly. Please
someone out there give me some feed back on what risk is involved with buying
something that's approaching the 200,000 mark in a couple of years.
Thanks,
Gitman
As to your post gitman. I have a 99 buick century with 160k miles. I use it for work and drive 50k a year in it. I love the car the mileage and I would buy another one again.
I would say check kelly blue book and if blue book is around that mark offer 1000 as I think he wants to sell it and you have the upper hand on this one.
Should I replace radiator?
I am offered to buy a Century 1998 - 150K on it. The KBB values it at 3000, i can get it for 2.5k.... Please let me know if I should go in for it ? The car is in good condition.I need something that will last me for 2 years with 700 miles driving per month.
Regards
Saurabh
While you are waiting for a response here, you might also hop over to the Real-World Trade-In Values discussion and ask Terry. Be sure to read the posting guidelines (in red) so you can give him all the info he'll need to tell you what it's worth.
Good luck!
thanks
Just-a-Girl
My guess is there's something else going on here. You wouldn't by any chance have an ex-someone who might be having fun with you by pouring salt or sugar in your gas tank, would you?! I mean, it almost sounds like something is fouling up the fuel filter.
Sometimes the act of replacing a fuel pump can stir up whatever is in the tank to let the car run for a while before it clogs things up again. First, I'd have the fuel filter replaced. It is located under the passenger side ahead of the rear wheel. Second, I'd consider buying a locking gas cap. And third, yes, I would definitely take it somewhere else for a second opinion. Dealers are expensive, but maybe you can find a repair shop that has the tool they can plug into your car to get the diagnostic codes. That should pinpoint the problem.
Anyone else have any other specific ideas that might help her? In the meantime, good luck. Hope things work out okay for you.
Here are programming instructions that worked for us:
1) Sit in the driver's seat
2) Remove the ignition key from the ignition lock cylinder
3) Close all the doors
4) Press and hold unlock on the door lock switch (on the door)
5) While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, insert and remove the ignition key twice. DO NOT ROTATE THE KEY.. JUST SLIDE IT IN AND BACK OUT.
6) Insert the ignition key the third time, leaving the key in the ignition cylinder. DO NO TURN KEY
7) Release the door lock switch. You will hear 3 chimes indicating the transmitter programming is active.
8) Press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the keyless entry remote at the same time (on remote) for 12 seconds. You will hear two chimes. This indicates the transmitter has been programmed.
9) Repeat step 8 for all additional transmitters to be programmed
10) Exit programming by removing the key from the ignition cylinder.
Hope this helps.
The local mechanic is willing to do the work, but warned me that the price for these were rather high and suggested that if I were to either find them some place cheaper than he could get them or even used from a junk yard, he'd swap them out for just an hour's worth of labor. (can you believe that there are still honest mechanics out there?!)
So does anybody have the part number(s) for the ignition coil packs and know of what other cars were sold using this same part(s)? If I'm going to a junk yard, I'd like to know which cars I can pull these things from.
Thanks!
Also, I wonder if I could get some feedback regarding reliability and durability (long-term) of the 3.1 engine. I know that the 3.8 in the Regal is a solid, workhorse Buick engine, but I'm not really familiar with the 3.1. Isn't the 3.1 a Chevy design, the same not-so-great motor they put in cars like the Corsica?
I've heard that these engines had a number of problems...main bearing oil leaks, melting heads etc. but haven't been able to back this up with any solid research. From what I've found on internet-based sources it seems to be regarded as an "OK" engine, but nothing spectacular.
If anyone can offer any long-term, anecdotal experiences & recommendations, I'd appreciate it. I'd get a Regal with a 3.8, but the Century can be had so much cheaper, and would suit my purposes as long as I can be reasonably confident it would give solid long-term service.
Thanks!
The Century is a solid car, no doubt about it. Be advised, however, that Buick has been "de-contenting" their cars over the last few years, so things you thought were standard are now options. The best example of this is anti-lock brakes. They were standard on Century up to 2002, but then optional in 2003 and beyond. My youngest son bought a used 2003, and it took forever to find one with anti-locks. Every time we saw one advertised, it was sold by the time we called.
As far as the 3100 engine is concerned, the trick is to keep it well maintained. Sure, one can say that for all cars, but the 3100 does have a track record of failing head gaskets. One theory I've read a lot about concerns Dex-Cool. The owner's manual says you can go 5 years or 150,000 miles before doing routine cooling system maintenance, but many people think that means you can just ignore it entirely for 5 years. Not so. Dex-Cool still evaporates over time, and when air gets into the cooling system, the Dex-Cool turns into a foul brownish gel. So, always check the coolant level, and don't wait 5 years to have it changed out.
Otherwise, these cars are great, and a terrific bang for the buck.
The bad gasket costs only $40 to $50, but replacing it requires a lot of labor and costs $550 to $800. $550 or so at independent mechanics, $800 at dealers. On the other hand, some dealers replace it for free if the gasket leaks again.
The manifold is made of aluminum, engine is steel. Different coefficient of thermal expansion. A couple of years ago GM changed the part number for the gasket; I had read that the new gasket is made from a better material and does not leak as often.
I changed the DexCool before 5 years, and added it religiously. Still had the leak at 37k miles with my 98 Malibu with 3.1l engine, and again at 68k or 69k miles. After the second leak I trade the car in for a second Buick Regal GS.
By the way, some naturally aspirated 3.8l GM engines also had problems with a similar leaks. Their intake manifolds are made from plastic. However, supercharged 3.8l engines have steel manifolds and are free of the problem.
There was once a website that showed what Dex-Cool had done to intake manifold gaskets on engines that had been disassembled. Unfortunately, I can't find it, but the point of the article was that the author believed it was the chemical reaction of Dex-Cool and air that was allowed into the system that was causing the fluid to change to a brownish gel, and the pictures clearly showed the erosion of the gaskets. You could actually see how gasket material was being chemically etched away. Yes, I understand GM has beefed up their gaskets, but they have also made changes to their radiator caps, and in some cars have eliminated the radiator cap entirely, presumably to prevent the possibility of air leaking into the cooling system inadvertently.
But your last posting was most interesting in that it sounds as if you did a more than honorable job in maintaining your car's cooling system.
So the discussion, and perhaps the confusion, continues...
Too bad because the Century seems like otherwise a pretty good car. Sealed for life automatic (Dextron III fill), stainless steel exhaust, double galvanized steel body etc. And they can be had at a very reasonable price on the used market (maybe this is why?).
Thanks again.
Barnee
The gasket was just the last straw. When our service adviser told that that the car needs a new rack and pinion AND the intake manifold gasket (the second time), my wife decided that enough is enough. Did not like to spend $2000-$2,500 per year on the car.
We would no trade it because of the gasket only, though.
Early Malibu had a lot of problems. Century are much more reliable.
What really bothers me is how The General responds (or does not respond) to these type of issues. How long have they been making these engines? How long have they been aware of the problem and allowed it to continue (the "improved gasket" semi-fix notwithstanding...it's a design problem that should be properly corrected).
I'm not a GM basher (I'll always have a soft spot for my 76 Camaro LT Sport Coupe...I loved my 99 S-10 pickup...and my 2002 Blazer is a pretty good truck, although not especially sophisticated...the 4.3 "Vortec" is basically the ancient small block Chevy 350 with a couple cylinders lopped off). BUT...a responsible manufacturer who actually cares about quality deals with this type of thing quickly, and definitively. They don't allow it to be a nagging concern for years and place the engine in a multitude of vehicles.
GM (and Ford and Chrysler) still have a lot of lessons to learn from companies that I'll refrain from naming here (however they rhyme with "Royota" & "Konda").
Barn :P
The East Asians seem to have a better response in fixing problems, but this is said in a general way. Some of the Korean makes still aren't up there with the Japanese yet.
Nevertheless, I still believe American build quality is improving, enough at least that nowadays I am comfortable at buying used ones. Buicks are my current favorite, but who knows down the road? I tend to keep cars for many years, and saving all that front end depreciation feels wonderful!
My problem was with multitude of problems, not with a single one. As well as I understand, Century is much more reliable than 98 Malibu.
I too have a feeling that it's the bean counters at work, not the engineers. DeLorean outlined this quite well in his book (On a Clear Day you can see General Motors). This is a problem inherent for decades...and they must fix it if they are to survive.
I am still considering a Century. Both you and Yurkam make good points....get a used one at a fantastic price (because of the depreciation) and build in the $800 1 in 5 chance repair. One question though...is the repair really guaranteed for life? Is this through a goodwill bulletin or secret warranty of some sort? Reason I ask, is that most GM repairs are guaranteed for only 90 days after the fix....can you guys point me to info re this?
Thanks to both, you've been really helpful and forthcoming with information and your experiences!
Barn :shades:
I think for the sake of our discussion I would find the part number and insist that the repair be made with the newest upgraded metal version of the intake manifold gasket. That alone would make me feel a lot better.
Moreover, if I could remember to ask for it, I'd like to get the old gasket back. IIRC, there's a class action lawsuit brewing about this issue. And, as always, save the paperwork.
You might also check here for some suggestions:
Used Vehicles: Best Values
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For comparison, a year ago my son bought a 2003 with ABS and factory CD player for $9995 from a dealer. It had 24k miles on it.
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Vic
We had the faulty injector replaced, and the engine smoothed right out. The SES light is no longer illuminated.
1. My daughter used the passenger control for her a/c needs this weekend and after sometime we noticed her side of the floor was wet. It didn't smell and it looked like condensation maybe. I lifted the mat and it looked like sweat and the floor under the mat and on top of the mat was damp. Also, every time I made a left turn, the a/c made a noise like a screeching sound. Any suggestions? :confuse:
Thanks
John