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Comments
If the factory spec shows the under the seat storage box, how can I get the dealer to install it.
Is there a document or something I can reference?
The middle seat lack of adjustment was a shock to us as well. Would the mechanism retrofitable to the current seat?
How does your sliding door OPEN lock work?
Thanks for the info.
Best regards,
Dan
e-mail address is:
dan.gregory@hs.utc.com
How did you move the front seats back?
Sammy
When I ordered out mine, the GM specs on the website showed it. I don't know if it does any more. I figure GM saved about $1 on the storage box. I got one from a bone yard for a couple bucks and installed it myself. Interestingly, the carpet is still slit under the passenger seat and the wiring loom is there for connecting to a passenger 6 way power seat that has not been available since 1999. The sliding side door just barely stays there. I suspect they did it for liability reasons (people driving down the road with the door open).
I am looking for a bone yard for the second seat adjuster. same adjuster used since 1996 2nd and 3rd seat. Dealer is saying factory problem and factory is saying they have a right to change the specs. Obviously focus groups are not listened to at GM. Or the designer never tried to use his own vehicle.
Sammy:
Take out the seat with frame intact (4 nuts on the floor studs 15mm I think and measure carefully 2" back from current hole locations and drill two new holes and use 5/16" grade 8 bolts. This is for passenger side and NON electric driver side.
I had to install 3/8" thick x 2" wide x 24" long straps on top of 6 way power seat frame on driver side and reposition the seat 2" back on the new subframe. I also put the power seat controls on the left hand side of the seat frame where GM should have put them in the first place. Just swap the trim from side to side.
I am 6'6" and now lots of leg room both sides, and Wife can put left foot somewhere now that she has more leg room on her side.
Still have a rumble when accellerating at 60-65 and I think it is the rear pumpkin. Watching this and will let dealer know when it is constant.
Drove 8 hours in blizzard the other night, interstate had 4-6 inches of snow. VERY glad I have AWD and limited slip. Jeep Cherokees and Ford Explorers all were putting along at 35 mph and we were sure footed at 50-55 mph. It did not drift nor slip at all.
Dont like the Bridgestone Tires however, just because of the reputation of Firestone.
Cheers.
Dennis O
I am going to check that out about the seat.
Have a 2001 awd with limited slip cargo. You are correct snow is no problem. I had a bronco and the Safari is a lot better in snow.
Sammy
There also appear to be three EGR related TSBs that your dealer may not know about.
Steve, Host
A bad cat will smell like rotten eggs. A bad cat will also fry your 02 sensor or sensors in short order, particularly a "downstream" 02 sensor like many cars have today. They should have checked your cat when they changed your 02 sensor or sensors.
I don't, however, believe that the cat is likely to cause your emissions failure. The pollutants removed by the cat process aren't typically measured at emissions time.
I bought a well-used '94 Safari SLT AWD in May 2002 and had to go through the "Drive Clean" program for vehicle certification in the Toronto area.
For my Safari the inspection included an Emissions Control System test covering EGR, PCV, Catalytic Converter, Fuel Evaporative System and Gas Cap Pressure with a visible smoke inspection - all with a simple "pass" reported. Then there was a two-speed idle/2500 rpm tailpipe emissions inspection to confirm readings under 200 ppm for HC and under 1.00 per cent CO; 135 & 0.13% / 27 & 0.08% were my results.
Just wondering how these tests, limits and results compare to other folks' experience.
Yeah, there are visual and function tests of these components, but the cat itself does not affect the percentages seen by the sniffer. The 02 sensor certainly will. While the original post didn't specify why he didn't pass emissions, I assumed that if they identifiied a specific component, ie cat missing, then he wouldn't need to figure out what to replace. I admittedly ASSumed he meant his percentages were off, but you know what they say about assuming...
Sammy Castagna
I need a good used Cargo van for a new business I'm starting. I'm looking at a 1998 Chevy Astro cargo with AWD and 78000 miles. It was previously a Verizon Fleet Car. Some people have advised me to stay away from the AWD. Any experience/opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Larry
Thanks,
Phil...
See http://www.overlandvans.com
Thanks,
Jock
http://www.lemonaidcars.com/cgi-bin/search/proxy.pl?terms=astro&a- mp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lemonaidcars.com%2Ftruck-van.htm
However, during the last 10" snow dump on our street, my neighbour's fairly new '00 RWD Astro got stuck trying to access the main road nearby, whereas my well-used old '94 AWD Safari had no problem. Maybe my extra clearance made the difference?
I have a new LS 2003 and rather than buy the $4000 LT package just to get a leather wrapped steering wheel, I picked a line new one up from a 2000 at a local bone yard from a 99 which I understand is the same GM part number.
How do I get the SRS pod out of the middle and then the steering wheel off?
I certainly do not want to blow up the air bag!
I bet I have to disconnect the battery and then what?
I could take it to the dealer to have them install it but I would like to save the $100 for them to do it. But not if I have to disconnect and test all sorts of electrical circuits and still end up blowing up the air bag and costing myself $2000 or so.
Please let me know if anyone has had any experience with this.
I also received from Santa a wood trim kit and I need to get inside the glass/plastic cover on the instrument panel. How do I go about that?
Thanks for any help
Dennis O
turnkey@new.rr.com
Thanks.
Sammy Castagna
Sammy Castagna
My Astro has a 3.73 locking dif and I don't complain about the mileage as it gets about the same as my Mom's Suburban. My Astro is a business vehicle and it has the space and guts to get me around the northwest with all my "stuff".
And then the final straw was Chevy making the 7 passenger seating option available on the top LT model only.
So, the bottom line is, if you can afford all of the maintenance and depreciation of this van, it a great vehicle. But if you are an average American with a family that has other obligations, this vehicle is not for you.
Take care.
In 20 years, I have owned 9 vans and love everyone of them except for the previous stated problems.
Good luck with yours!
Sammy
I had a 94 Co. driver that I drove 88,000 miles and then purchased it. I don't know why I bought the problem vehicle as I had had to replace the spark plugs twice.
I traded it for a 97 Astro program vehicle with 27,000 miles on it. I had to have an injector replaced under warranty. Rear pinion seal, serpintine belt, also under warranty. But it only has 45,000 miles at this time as I only use it to tow a 30' RV.. And the fuel mileage is atrocious, only getting 14 to 15 mpg in tow, and 21 solo Hyway. Forgot, I did put a set of brake pads and rear shoes on at around 38,000 miles. Not required but I installed Monroe load levelers on the rear and KYB monomax shocks on the front.
Sammy Castagna
Sammy Castagna
As far as the other threads here, we get about 20 mpg in our 2000 AWD-equipped Astro on the highway, anywhere from 12-16 city. No major issues since purchase in 9/2000. Only warranty repair was the driver's side power window switch (2 times).
I can not help you with the wheel color. But what is the engine cradle/frame? Where the engine sits? What made it go bad and what were the symptoms?
Sammy
My Astro was involved in a collision. We were stopped, and a stolen car careened through an intersection and hit us on the left front corner doing about 30 or so. His car, Ford Focus, wrapped around the left front corner of the van and was completely destroyed. I was able to drive the van to the dealership. Turned out that the frame was bent, in addition to the visible damage (hood and fender). Rather than straighten the frame, they replaced it. Part cost is about $2500, and 17 hours or so of labor (all front suspension needs to come out, engine/tranny/xfer case disconnected, etc). Total bill for all repair work was $7200.
Sammy