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Mine "just wouldn't start" one day....turned out to be fuel pump. NO prior warning at all.
300 buck later....on the road again
Jamie
:confuse:
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And since yesterday it sometime stall when I stop at a light or at a stop sign.
My dealer does not have a clue on what going on since the computer does not give any code or light and because the problems occurs"> accasionnaly.
Any body can help ? Thank :confuse:
The folks in the discussions below might have the answers to your problems. Just click the links to get there:
"No Start" Problems
Idle or Stalling Problems: All Vehicles
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Small plastic vvacuumtube from the condensior towards the dash. Instead of replacing the tube I found the crack/break and used srink tubing (Radio Shack $.50) to fix the gap. 4th July weekend, took 5 mins to fix, how long will it last? Better then spending the day pulling of the dog house. If it wasn't fixed I'd be kicking my dogs out of their house to sleep.
change the window motor
ClaireS, Host
Coupes & Convertibles | Vans & Minivanns
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thanks
oscar
Hope you can help me with a lemon I have owned for five years, and spent $3800 on in the last 18 months. The mystery problem.....engine has a misfire at low rpm, three dealers have scoped it...nothing but emission codes....have installed a new egr, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injectors, cap, rotor. Have unhooked every part of the emission control system one at a time to fool the computer....nothing.
All that works is to replace the cap and rotor....that buys me around 150 miles of carefree driving. then, time for a new cap and rotor. Inside of cap has no wear marks, but looks like some kind of corrosion, or coating on the contacts. If your step on the gas hard, she runs fine.,...low speed, or even cruise control on the highway, and you have a miss....It is not rain related......please help!
But thanks to this forum - YAY - I just fixed it! yayayayay Someone said to slice open the rubber boot between the door and body and look for a broken blue wire. Sure enough - I found the same thing. Twisted it back and wrapped it with electrical tape and yay - the window finally went down!
Thanks to ? who posted on this forum. I owe ya a beer!
you seem to know your vans can you help me with this wiper problem. In you message you state
Turns out more often than not, the connector (covered in rubber) tends to come loose. We used tie-wraps (no kidding) to hold them snug. It works, don't laugh and it saves about $200 in repairs.
Can you tell me where i find this connector covered in rubber I have a 94 astro and I can leave the wipers on and sometimes they come on by themselves and sometimes they wont. when they do work they will turn off on thier own as well. it is very frustrating. I do not know much about under the hood but if I get an idea of how something works I can usually get my head around it.. any help would be much appreciated.
Julia
There is a re-call on wiper motor. I have 97 Astro luck for me I didn't fix it right away. I was sent a letter tell us about the re-call. you might give your dealer
a call. hope this help.
After all that injectors will not open,I hear the gas going,but they just won't open the injectors
I'm looking for any help or suggestions on this issue,I'm almost at the end of the rope on this issue with the van
The only code (other that 12) left is...
Problem: Code 83 - TCC PWN Solenoid Circuit Fault
Rough idle in neutral, almost dies when put into gear. Excessive vibration
There is no terminal F wire present at the ALDL so I couldn't check for voltage there.
I checked the fuse for "Gages" and I see voltage across both terminals with a DMM.
I checked the tan/black wire at the 20 pin connector at the passenger side of the transmission and there was no voltage with the key in the on position. There is supposed to be lettered markings on the male or female end of the plug but I couldn't see any indication of letters molded into either side of the plug. I also cleaned the plug with contact cleaner.
I went to check for 12 volts across the brake switch which is described in a TCC test procedure. The procedure references one of two possible brake switches, an upper switch with a vacuum hose and two wires, or, according to the document, there is a lower switch with four wires. The document is ambiguous as to whether one or both of these systems are present on the van.
As I am poking around trying to find these components, (which I still have to find) I put my hand on a solenoid that actuates a plunger that has a cable attached to the end and two wires attached to the solenoid, which is attached to the steering column. The solenoid gets so hot when the key is "ON" that I could not leave my finger on the solenoid for a half of one second before it burned my finger! It is located on the steering column and actuates when the brake pedal is depressed a small amount.
I am sure that this is a problem because any solenoid that gets that hot has a problem. I do not know the name of this component to get a replacement, so...
Question #1 - What is the name of this component so I can tell the parts store the correct name for them to look it up on their computer database?
Question #2 - What brake connections do I need to check for voltage beyond the one listed above. I initially could not find a typical brake switch which would be a plunger with two wires connected and attached to the brake pedal directly. I can see where the typical mounts for this type of switch would be located, but nothing is in the mount.
Question #3 – Are there other circuits that need to be tested in the TCC circuits.
I have asked this question on other forums, with no responses. I hope that one of the readers of this post can assist me.
Thanks, James
You might also want to ask your question in the Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy discussion.
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
The only code (other that 12) left is...
Problem: Code 83 - TCC PWN Solenoid Circuit Fault
Rough idle in neutral, almost dies when put into gear. Excessive vibration
There is no terminal F wire present at the ALDL so I couldn't check for voltage there.
I checked the fuse for "Gages" and I see voltage across both terminals with a DMM.
I checked the tan/black wire at the 20 pin connector at the passenger side of the transmission and there was no voltage with the key in the on position. There is supposed to be lettered markings on the male or female end of the plug but I couldn't see any indication of letters molded into either side of the plug. I also cleaned the plug with contact cleaner.
I went to check for 12 volts across the brake switch which is described in a TCC test procedure. The procedure references one of two possible brake switches, an upper switch with a vacuum hose and two wires, or, according to the document, there is a lower switch with four wires. The document is ambiguous as to whether one or both of these systems are present on the van.
As I am poking around trying to find these components, (which I still have to find) I put my hand on a solenoid that actuates a plunger that has a cable attached to the end and two wires attached to the solenoid, which is attached to the steering column. The solenoid gets so hot when the key is "ON" that I could not leave my finger on the solenoid for a half of one second before it burned my finger! It is located on the steering column and actuates when the brake pedal is depressed a small amount.
I am sure that this is a problem because any solenoid that gets that hot has a problem. I do not know the name of this component to get a replacement, so...
Question #1 - What is the name of this component so I can tell the parts store the correct name for them to look it up on their computer database?
Question #2 - What brake connections do I need to check for voltage beyond the one listed above. I initially could not find a typical brake switch which would be a plunger with two wires connected and attached to the brake pedal directly. I can see where the typical mounts for this type of switch would be located, but nothing is in the mount.
Question #3 – Are there other circuits that need to be tested in the TCC circuits.
I have asked this question on other forums, with no responses. I hope that one of the readers of this post can assist me.
Thanks, James
one of the wires going to the drivers side injector inside the throttle body
was rubbing the throttle body itself and had worn away the sheathing on
that wire and was therefore grounding out and blowing the ECM fuse down
on the fuse block by the drivers brake pedal.
Bet you a buck there's a good chance that's your problem
Mark 60 :P
Only Code 12 (of course) and 83 is thrown.
Would the bad TTC PWM Solenoid make the van run rough, or is their no relation between a bad idle and this solenoid??
Thanks, James
I have a 1987 astro van and the four bolts in the steering column that hold the tilt u-joint in place have worked loose. I was able to get to two of them but the other two seem to be impossible to reach. Any help with this?
Nextlevel
I tow a boat frequently, but it's well within my load range. I tow an even lighter utility trailer, but again well within my load range for that vehicle.
Possible differential gearing problems to take place? Or do I need to have it checked out NOW?
Otherwise it's been a very solid vehicle with no major problems. FYI