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A couple of questions:
1. How accurate should an odometer be? The distance for our drive on Mapquest/Mapblast is about 359 miles. The odometer reads 352. Is this within acceptable tolerance? Is there any way to calibrate it further, or is it fixed from the factory?
2. Our MPG on this trip (first tank) was 23.5 mpg. Will this get better after the engine breaks in?
Thanks,
Sri
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I feel the 4-cyl is adequate 95% of the time. The only exceptions may be: heavy towing, or requiring quick acceleration uphill while loaded. Any comments from other 4-cyl owners?
Now the news: the service manager told me that Toyota is sending out a 'service bulletin' to 3.5 million Toyota owners of vehicles with 4's and 6's between 1997 until August of 2001 mfg. Siennas, Camrys, Highlanders, Avalons. The deal is if your Check Engine light, smoking at start-up, or notice oil levels going down unusually, you should set up an appointment with your local Toy service and have them have the Toy Rep. inspect the car. ONLY after the Rep approves that your vehicle has the problems described, will Toy cover the expenses of having the valve seals replaced, and head machined....which is what was required on my vehicle with 76K miles on it. Also, only certain VIN's will be affected.
People will have 1 year to get the vehicle in for inspection and/or servicing. After that time, Toy will no longer cover the issue.
So the issue has hit the fan so to speak. The service manager stated that Toy wanted to save face and own up to it and hopes that this will save customers down the road too.
Good luck to owners within this period. Look for the mailing within the next month or so.
Pass the word out to those who own the vans and upscale Avalons that this is coming down the pike.
And here's another discussion (again here at Edmund's): john339 "Toyota "sludge" problem acknowledged by Toyota." Mar 12, 2002 9:34pm
FWIW, we traded in our '97 Avalon when we got the '01 HL. The Avalon had about 65K on it and the HL (which IS part of the possibly affected group) now has over 13K and neither vehicle had/has any problem. Our dealer provides us with oil changes every 3K for the life of the vehicle. We also purchased a Platinum warranty when we got the HL as an extra hedge, given the HL was in it's first year of production.
Wanted to pay ~$27,700 (driveout + TTL) for a 6CD + cloth + tow prep + floormat. Got $28,000 (driveout + TTL) for all of above + C0 (Extra mile) + DG (door edge grd) + P1 (Vehicle protectant pkg) + R2 (lighted running boards) + DH (hitch w/ harness)!
30K on the road (inc TTL).
Basically, the dealer gave (up) ~$2400 MSRP dealer options for free, that were already on the car that I told him I didn't care about.
(Total MSRP on car was $32781).
The best price for my orig config that I got over the internet was $28078 ($300 over invoice plus all other "ad charges", it seems). Could not resist the "what will it take to make you take the car home today" offer price after the test drive.
The dealer tried every single trick in the book, including "be reasonable- you want me to take $4K off the MSRP)", "I'm not going to make money on this vechile", "I'm only doing this for you", "Everyone pays this dealer association fees" (well NOT me!), "It costs me nothing to have this vehicle sit on the lot for upto 12 months" (I liked this the best!), "It'll cost me (and you) extra to order a new vehicle than what I can sell this to you for" and a few other true and tried ones.
Basically, once I mentioned "internet research", his entire offense crumbled. Now, what's wrong with this price?
He originally started at $30,800. My original offer was 27,800. We settled at 28,000.
Re. The car itself. Drives like a charm. Very quite, very smooth. Though the upgraded 6CD audio system is a bit of a disappointment in terms of sound "richness". My 7 year old camry 4 speaker regular (though 3cd changer) system is noticeably better. Could have something to do with the fact that the acustic envorinment in a SUV is not quite as good as a car, where the trunk is available for use as a boom cavity enclosure (a large speaker box).
TG, Houston, TX.
Happy HL's to all, and let's change the oil routinely.
I was talking to a radiator repair shop about a bad heater core and he told me that it was because the original antifreeze was still in the car and was full of corrosive additives. Should antifreeze be replaced sooner than two years. If so why and how often. I have a new Hylander and I noticed that the antifreeze is red not greenish/yellow. Anyone Please
First, Toyota is still blaming the problem on owner negligence in their letter.
Second, my manual says to change the oil every 5,000 to 7,500 miles depending on driving conditions. Following these oil change intervals is not negligence on the owner's part (nothing in the manual of my formerly sludged '00 Sienna about a 3,000 mile oil change interval), and
Third, I have heard another Toyota employee make a comment about receipts in sequence. My receipts were from different shops and not in any sequence. I also heard that if you go to a Jiffy Lube or similar place for oil changes and do not have your receipts and go to them for documentation that they all get printed out in sequence.
Anyone wanting more info on this subject should visit the "Engine Sludge" Town Hall forum (it is listed under "Maintenance and Repair").
I can't see any reason to not jump on the deal - except that I am still considering the Pathfinder ($1000 rebate or 4.9%)/QX4(2.9%). The QX4 coumes out cheaper due to the 2.9% financing than a loaded Higlander - but who really uses the sunroof? All I ever hear is complaints about noises from sunroofs on all makes and models of cars.
The only extra option they are "giving you" worth anything are the tow hitch and running boards. Did you have a trade?
Special thanks goes out to gwkiser, who provided more information than all the toyota salesman put together, and spektre, who by recommending AutoFair Toyota in Manchester NH, saved me $1000. (For you locals, contact Joe Webb via the Internet at http://www.autofair.com/)
Looking to buy a 4cyl Highlander. Haven't driven a 4 cyl Highlander but drove the Camery with same engine. It appears to be adequate. Any comments?
I had the spoiler installed by the dealer. I had it "thrown" into my deal when I was wheeling and dealing over the price. I posted the very same question on the old Yahoo Highlander board, and
got feedback that its not all that easy to do yourself. I was concerned about drilling holes etc.
.. that's a little scary. Anyway, took the dealer shop about 45 minutes, and they guaranteed the
installation for life of the warranty.
Just a reminder that the Town Hall chat is on for Wednesday evening (5-7pm Pacific/8-10 pm Eastern). Hope you can join in this week to meet and greet with your fellow Town Hall users and have a little fun with The Return of Car Trivia!
Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/newsviews.html
kirstie_h
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
How much for the spoiler? Thanks.
for spoiler is $390.00.
Nice ride quiet, a little jiggle.
Gas mileage scares me - people reporting 15-17 in town is not good if gas prices go up.
Car also had a huge center front console - a regular camry has more room in the front -amazing
I purchased a pre-painted spoiler with installation instructions and drilling template(dirty word for a new HL)from Steve Lagerquist at Burnsville Toyota -www.toyparts.net. Cost was $230.00 + ups charges. The trickiest and most important part of the install was finding the center line of the rear gate. I used the 3rd brake light lens as a reference point. Once the center line is found, measure over to the left and right according to instructions and tape down the paper template. Lightly center punch the 4 pre-marked X's on the template and your ready to "DRILL."The measurements are metric so it helps to
have a metric tape measure on hand. I used touch up paint on the bare metal and sealed those areas with silicone. The instructions were easy
to follow and it took about 1 hour. It was really rather easy - just take your time and double check the template location. The rear spoiler looks great!!
Also, I added the HL fog lamps to my V6 AWD unlimited - purchased a 4Runner wiring harness and switch (from Burnsville.)The Toyota harness came with a relay and fuse. That install was more detailed and took me about 6-7 hours. Most of the time was spent laying out
the best way to wire up everything. Anyway, good luck on the rear spoiler.
Do not dismiss the HL too quickly on the one comment you cited .... there are many others that are very complementary about the economy.
Happy HL'ing to all
why is mileage lower on the highway - isn't it usually better?
Thanks for the info on the spoiler. We are supposed to pick up the Highlander today. I will order and install the spoiler myself. I assume it's held on with self tapping screws? Let me know please.
Regarding the fog lamps - where did you order them and how much were they? Do you happen to have a part number? I assume the lamps themselves just bolt right in place and come with the correct brackets. Salesman asked the parts man and said that you have to order everything separately - left lamp, right lamp, left bracket, right bracket, etc...Please let me know.
Thanks
The rear spoiler comes with a hardware packet. Mine was taped to the inside of the box and contained two 6mm bolts, one 6mm nut, and a special pop rivet fastener. The spoiler is held in place on the passenger's side with a threaded stud (already installed on the spoiler) and one of the bolts. The left side was held in place with a strip of 2 sided tape, one 6mm bolt, and the special fastener that must be pop riveted to the body of the tail gate. In all, there are 4 holes to be drilled, 4 fasteners to attach ,plus the tape. The tape is really used to hold the spoiler in place while you install all the bolts and nut.
I purchased the FOG LAMPS and spoiler from Steve in parts at Burnsville Toyota - phone,888-435-8022.
For the fog lamps -
Each of the original dummy plugs in the front panel are held in place with one small screw, which can be removed by reaching down from inside the open hood, and 2 white plastic retainers. I found that it is best to not pull the dummy plugs out and leave the retainers in place. Reach behind the dummy plugs and use your thumb nail or pliers to press on the barbs which hold the retainers in the front panel. Pull the assembly out as one piece. When you install the new Fog Lamps, make sure to reuse these white retainers and push them onto the fog lamps - not back into the front panel. You will also need 2 small black bearings - part number 90075-10811. These will push onto the new fog lamp adjusting screws. This black bearing will actual push into the hole where the retaining screw was found on the dummy plug. There was an additional posting on the fog lamp install process about 3 weeks ago, you may want to search back.
I plan to write up procedure for wiring the fog lights . I used the 4Runner fog-lamp switch and wiring harness, which were ordered from Steve at Burnsville Toyota. Once I,m finished I will post up the procedure. I had to add about 2 feet of wire to the harness in order for it to reach the passenger side fog lamp. The wires from the harness to the switch went through the firewall just above the wiring bulkhead connector on the driver's side. There is a small rubber nipple, above the bulkhead connector, that is about the size of pencil eraser. This was a perfect inconspicuous place to push the wires through.
Any way good luck.
I personally, am very satisfied with the mileage I am achieving ... Sure, I wish it was higher, but it is almost identical to what Toyota claimed it would be. Some time ago this or the Yahoo Board conducted a survey re mileage, and it was very interesting how most people that responded were grouped closely to the advertised figure. I assume that speaks well for Toyota's quality control. Similar surveys on other boards, the responses were not as consistent, and that seemed to reflect a poorer quality control .... but that is just conjecture on my part.
The bottom line is: I am very happy with the HL. It is far from a perfect vehicle, but for the money, it is closer to my "mark" than anything else that I investigated.
Happy HL'ing to all.
Good suggestion. I'm sure there are a variety of ways to get usable fog lamps on the unlimited. The 4Runner wiring harness did come with the 12 volt relay and I was able to tap in to the empty fog lamp relay slot on the back of the fuse panel. The fogs will come on with the parking lamps or head lamps and automatically turn off when the engine is turned off. The extra dash switch will allow the fogs to be independently turned off.
With the great number off question I've seen on the add-on fog lamps, it is unfortunate that Toyota has not offered this as an add on accessory kit.
Thanks again for the idea!
Has anyone had experience with this product and if so, does it protect the front from chips, etc...how does it hold up. Option priced at $100. I've had bug shields on my minivans for years and while they may not stop all chipping on the hood and bugs on the windshield, I think they help somewhat. All opionions are welcome.
Thanks.
I checked at the local parts supplier and the price for a roll of this product 40 feet long by 12 inches wide is over $700.00. If you got a price of $100.00 its a great price.
Baseball5,
Ordered the spoiler also. I wonder why the spoiler is held on by two bolts, one stud, and one rivet. Two bolts/two studs would seem logical.
Will order the fog lamps today. So I do need the small black bearings you mentioned? P/N 90075-10811. I may not wire them up right away but I want to get them into the bumper as soon as I can.
Thanks
With my old Rav-4, it was easy--just peel them off and remove the remaining adhesive with WD-40.
If you know of a way to can remove them, I promise not to put small children in harm's way of the airbags or anything else Toyota warns against.
Thanks.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Congrats on your new HL. What color did you select? Hey - that spoiler does use a special plastic fastener that is pop riveted onto the driver's side of the rear gate. If you lift up the rear gate and look on the back side, near the top, you will notice 3 black rubber plugs, 1 on the left and 2 on right. This is where the bolts and stud are fastened. The pop rivet does not go completely through the rear gate. What an odd way to do things.
Yes, you will need those 2 black bearings. These not only serve as a bearing for the fog light adjusters, but act as a retainer for the bottom of the lamp assembly. They will replace the screws that are removed after you take out the dummy plugs.
My wife and I have not noticed any wind noise from the rear of our HL.
Those who have them, do you use them that much or are they something that is used those couple times a year with freezing rain, etc.. I have a garage, so overnighting is not an issue. They sound like a cool option...but are they practical?
Thanks!!
The extra booklet for the alarm states that the headlights come on for 20 seconds after you disarm the alarm. Mine does this and also come on for 20 seconds after you arm the alarm. The book does not mention this (the arming part). Is everyone's like this? What's the purpose of having the headlights come on for arming or disarming? I wish I could turn that feature off.
Also - on the keyless entry. One push unlocks the drivers door, two for all doors. The owners manual states that it can be changed so that the first push unlocks all the doors - like our old Sienna, which I prefer. It says that the dealer can do this. Has anyone had this done or knows how to do this?
When we picked up the HL, both crossbars on the roof rack were together in the back. Since I heard a little extra wind noise in the rear roof area, I moved one crossbar all the way to the front. The noise is not the same as before. Now I hear a little extra wind noise from the front roof area. Must be something from the roof rack. Maybe having the crossbars in a certain arrangement will lessen the noise. I'll experiment. The noise is not bad, just noticeable for us coming from a Sienna. But this is a different vehicle and it will have a different sound when driving.
I am thinking of installing a dimming mirror. It was easy on my sebring, but I dont know where to fun the wires, as there is no gap between the liner and windshield. Anybody out there do this or should I have toyota do it.
thanks
ed
Just how many cats do you own?
I can understand the name "silky"...the Highlander does ride smooth and well! I hope you enjoy yours for a long time to come.