Lasrer: I've noticed my seat heaters warming for a while then automatically shutting off. Now the lights don't show this but my husband noticed it and checked into it further. I am guessing that they are temp controlled somehow.
Any suggestions as to the best / easiest way to remove the door panels on the H/L? I want to replace the speakers and eventually the head unit. I don't want to break anything and am looking for details.
Yesterday I've noticed steering wheel vibration when braking, going over 70 mph. I have a little over 13,500 ml. Took my V6 FWD HL to the dealer. After a test drive with the tech, he determined warped brake rotors. They will replace front and rear rotors and brakes. I am very disappointed with the quality. I did not expect this to happen with Toyota's original rotors. I keep distance and do not break hard. I've also noticed that the car feels wobbly at high speed. It's not that it's pulling to the right or left, it just not very stable. I have GoodYear original tires. Would changing to something better make a difference? Any suggestions? Thanks
I am buying a trailer hitch for my 2002 4 WD V6 Limited that has the trailer prep package option, and the tech at the place where I am buying the hitch says he hasn't found a Highlander yet that has any pre-wiring for the hitch. Does anyone reading these messages have a Highlander with the towing prep package option for which the pre-wiring set up has been found? I assumed I would be able to just plug in a wiring harness somewhere under the vehicle and run it out to the hitch and plug in the trailer wiring connector. Not the way it works???
I read it from somewhere that incorrect torquing of the wheel lugnuts would warp the rotors. The pneumatic tools many mechanics use are especially easy to cause this problem. Is this true?
It is the type of driving one is going to do. We chose the 6 because we do mostly city driving we do hit the tollways and we like the accerlation. After we bought a 6 I went back again and tested the 4 cyl to see if I was interested in getting one for myself. (the 6 cyl is for my wife) The 4 is an adequate vehicle and has the push to get you around town and expressway driving. I dont drive on any type of hills (Live in flat Ill.) So when my Camry is ready for a trade in and I feel like going after another Highlander( if I am happy with the present one) the 4 cyl would be ok for me since it would be mostly city driving and not much else.
I have the trailer prep package on my HL and it is there. Slide underneath the back of it and you will see a black plastic box approximately 1 foot by 2 feet in size. This is located just in front of the rear bumper. You will see a wire bundle going into this box from the left side of the SUV. I was able to flex the edge of the box and get the plug receptical out. If you can not do that there are 4 small bolts that hold the box to the frame (10mm) take the cover off and you will see a plug adapter with a cap on it. Pull it out a little and replace the cover. Toyota parts sells a "pigtale" for the HL for about $12. It plugs into that and is about 2 or 3 feet long so you can route it to your hitch. They also give you wire tie wraps and a fuse which needs to be installed under the hood in your fuse panel. Instructions are included with the pigtail, I think it is worth it to buy this from Toyota. I posted an earlier message (#5740) about the hitch I bought on line at etrailer.com It was a class II hitch from Draw-tite. If you want a class III hitch I think Reese makes one.
Dont know what the lug nut torque is on the HL = probably 80-100 ft lbs. The impact wrenches can easily go 2 to 3 times that. And bubba always has them on high. He has never had a problem.
I find it interesting that you say the dealer back there is using Pennzoil?
Out here at the World's largest Toyota dealer, they use Mobil 5W-30.
I've had mine changed twice with Blackstone Analysis each time, and there were no problems.
I became concerned when all the talk of gelling started and was all set to go to Mobil 1. Called the tech at Blackstone, and to my surprise, he advised against it, saying that the regular Dino oil was better at carrying the problems that cause the gelling to the filter where they can be removed. So, I kept the straight Dino oil ( Mobil ) in there just to see what will happen next time.
What was your percentage of insolubles? It should be <0.6%. On my last test, the figure was 0.4% at 4200 miles on the oil.
Don't sweat the high silicon levels. Mine were 255 and 52 repectfully, and I expect them to drop much lower the next test.
Uneven torque can definitely contribute to rotor warping. After my first Toyota service when they rotated the tires, I checked one wheel - the lug torque ranged from 80 to 115 ft lbs - its supposed to be 76, IIRC. 115 is 151% of the recommended setting! What to do? Unless you check the torque yourself, the next best thing would be to request they check each one with a torque wrench, and not rely on the torque rods they use with an air impact wrench. This Toyota service was at Ourisman Fairfax Toyota in Fairfax, VA, where even the most simple items (like lug torque) were done incorrectly.
5759 of 5763 Re: Rotors and Brakes by wcp May 17, 2002 (04:30 pm) I read it from somewhere that incorrect torquing of the wheel lugnuts would warp the rotors. The pneumatic tools many mechanics use are especially easy to cause this problem. Is this true?
for the info. I wasn't going to switch to synthetic but was going to try another brand of dino oil. Not only is my dealer using Pennzoil but it is in bulk barrels.
Is your dealer Longo? I'm originally from S. Calif but didn't have a Toyota until long after I moved east. Dealer here recommends 10-30 as our summers are hot and extremely humid.
My dealer actually did the first analysis for me after I talked to the service manager about getting it done so I was just assuming the cost would be around $25-30. I'll find out for sure with the next one. I don't see an insolubles as a percentage unless it is the line showing TBN (D2896) which is shown as .5 (but not a %). I also became concered when the postings about sludge and the special policy started and decided to get the test done to know the facts about my HL rather than assuming things were worse or better than they really were. I love the vehicle and would buy another one today...I also have a silver one ;-)
I just received my 2nd set of floor mats that I ordered from partznet.com but they seem to have a defect.
On my ordered gray limited custom highlander mats, the front floor mat seems to have a defect. Around the edge of the mat is a 1 inch trim that borders the mat. On my right front floor mat, the border stops short on the top right corner leaving the corner without the border. This is my second pair like this. Could you please check to see if this is a design flaw or have I just gotten two sets that a both wrong.
Rlambertinga, there's no defect in your mats. I also thought this was the case, so the dealer ordered in a second set for me. Turns out the missing trim is necessary in order for that corner to be creased to follow up the side kick panel. Make a crease where the floor meets the bottom of the kick panel and let the mat follow upward. Were the trim there, it would bunch up at the point where the mat is bent.
I tried to email you a photo to show how to reattach the bottom of the leather, but your email address in the profile here is no long active, or at least that's what the return said. If you would like to see the photo, please email me (gwkiser@yahoo.com) and I'll be happy to send it out.
Thank you for the information. Are current 2002 models coming with the same floor mats. Just thought that maybe since I ordered off the net that maybe I got 2001 model mats and that maybe they were different than the 2002 model mats.
Longo is our dealer, and is only five miles away! Very helpful when it comes to gathering a sample, as I always provide them with a copy for their information.
There is no TBN on my two test results from Blackstone. Maybe that is an extra charge item; I'm not sure. The tech said that what I needed to know about the gelling problem would show up under the insolubles, and that mine was fine, as it was below 0.06%.
Blackstone has a website: www.blackstone-labs.com/
There are many other site available also, but this one has a place that can answer FAQ.
They will send you out a free test kit, which you use and mail back with a check for $18.50. After that, they mail you two kits with your name and address already printed on the labels. Sounds like they like the business. Refreshing, no?
Tip: Tell the nosey type at the P.O. that it is a soil sample or it'll cost you twice as much for postage! I paid over $3.00 the first time because it had to go into some different packaging that the P. O. clerk 'said' was necessary. The next time, I told them when they asked, that it was dirt.
Excellent choice is color BTW. And like you, I'd buy another in a nano-second. Finest running vehicle I've ever had.
Regarding the couple of postings on type of oil used by dealers, the Toyota dealer I bought my V-6 '01 from and have it serviced at here in the central coast area of California uses Valvoline 10W-30. Which I am pleased about (personal preference). Excellent service, too, by the dealer.
I have had my 2001 Highlander for eleven months now, and have over 16,000 miles on it. Like pdalpsher and silverhlltd, I would buy another one...in fact, I would not hesitate to do so. It has been a great vehicle for me. The only problem I had to address through warranty was the Homelink system in the visor appartently shorted out...even the little light went out. So, the service manager checked it, determined it did need replacing, and I had a replacement very quickly....I consider that a very minor issue (by the way, they simply replaced the entire visor...it was a very quick change out).
In mixed driving, both highway/freeway and around town, I average about 20.5 MPG, although on long trips I have gotten well over 25 at times. For my needs, it has plenty of "get up and go" and I have found the V-6 220 horse power to come in handy during freeway merges and related needs for prompt accelaration (my last car was a 4 cyl Honda Accord...which was a little under powered for me, but I do have about a three or four mile 7% grade that I have to travel over to work and back as well as some other hilly roads).
for the info on the firm that did your oil analysis. I've asked them for the sample kit. Hopefully it will arrive before the next change (probably in about 2 weeks). I'll mail it as a soil sample...that shouldn't be too hard as folks are always doing samples from their yards to get their lawn chemistry right. thanks again for the info...happy HLing!
Thanks for the good comments, I think in a month or two when we are ready to buy, we will get the 4 cylinder 2 wheel drive. We have a 2001 Civic to get rid of first,,,it has been the worst car I've ever owned, its really surprised me being a honda, I expected quality but it has been in the shop 12 times so far for repairs. Cant wait to get a highlander!!!
I too had doubts about removing the door panels on my HL, but after careful examination I found out the easy way. first get a door panel removing tool at your local auto store (a MUST), then carefully remove the (cup-like door handle on the armrest) after removal you will see a phillips head screw behind, that you could not see before.
open the small square cap behind the door release lever(another screw will be found there, now the hard part; the piece of plastic that surrounds the door release lever has to come out, carefully with a small and thin flat head screwdriver pry up and out above the locking button and below the handle pivot point. it's only going to move slightly out because behind this cup there's a L plastic piece that also holds it in place. so pull outwards and towards the front. then Pry out the snaps around the edges of the panel (10 or so) and the door is ready to come out. lift the panel up and then out, and quick-disconnect harness for the wires for the door switches and the courtesy lights. thats it. hope this helps
As a matter of fact, I had tires balanced and rotated by the same dealer, Russell Toyota in Baltimore, about 2 weeks before I've noticed vibration. I assumed they did it right and did not check myself. Thanks
Has anyone purchased a HL factory service manual for a 2002? If so, could you please provide the factory settings for front end alignment.
I'm looking for caster (which is typically not adjustable on front wheel drive cars), camber and toe in. The setting would be expressed in degrees or inches. There is a preferred setting and an acceptable range, usually with a maximum of left to right amount. My 2002 hl is going back to the dealer on Thursday for a pull to the left, and I'm concerned that the caster is out. Why I don't know, but it has been re-aligned once already.
I also am experiencing vibration at about 70 mph and above, and the tires have been re-balanced, and the car only has 5,500 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
dealers dont care much about pull. they have a real big acceptable range of front settings for warranty work, different from specs for customer paid work and allow a big viariation between front wheels. I had to get an independant mech to fix mine
Wain is correct. Most dealerships just don't have the expertise to handle alignments beyond some pretty vague factory settings. Unfortunately, if you want it done *right* you'll pay a few bucks to a specialist.
Specifically, you need the GSP 9700 system. You can go to their site and use their locater to find where there is a shop that has the equipment that is the best there is for solving your balancing problems.
Do you have steel wheels or the alloys. Reason for asking: There was a chap up North that had steel wheels, and one was out-of-round. The dealer had worked on it more than once, but stated that they were balanced correctly and they probably were, but IF they are not round, they will act like they aren't balanced. Read all about how that machine works, and you'll be able to understand how and what is needed to properly balance a wheel and tire combination. This balancer tells the operator how to mount the wheel and the tire so their sweat spots are together. This guy up North also had a bad factory tire from GY, so putting a bad tire on a out-of-round wheel spelled trouble.
To bad you not located near one of Hunter's training centers. If you were, it is sometimes possible to get the work done gratis if you can leave your car so that they have a vehicle to use for training.
Concerning the alignment specifications, mine is a 2001.
Am I correct in assuming that those specs would be the same for either year? If so, I have 'em.
I too have port installed leather on my 2001 highlander, and I too have been back 3 times for the untucking problem. Finally se toyota rep decided to change the covers on the seat bottoms, which was done today by a seat cover shop. While there I asked the installer if there was any difference between the old design and the new design as far as attachment and the gentleman said there was no difference, and that it was a poor way to attach the covers to the seat. So I wonder what happens if they come unattached again?
I brought all of the postings on this forum and also from the yahoo forum to try and show the toyota rep that this is not an isolated problem and that the port installed leather seems to be a ongoing problem.
I wonder if that gets any further than se toyota, in other words does this info get to main toyota headquarters and what does it take before they make a design change on this seat cover attachment.
Does the factory installed leather have this problem, or is there no factory installed leather?
While driving to change my leather seat covers I decided to break the speed limit and verify a problem that my wife told me about some time back, (with the car I mean).
Upon reaching 78mph, there was a whistling noise emitted from the top of the windshield area not unlike when one would blow air across a soda bottle.
Is anyone else experiencing this problem, and if so what was done to correct it. The service mgr told me this was a design flaw and there was nothing he could do??? Is this correct??Help!!!
I am thinking of installing a hood protector on my 2002 Highlander. Has anyone done this? Degree of difficulty? Best place to buy one, at the dealer or online?
1. I did it, I'm a computer jockey, not a mechanic...don't even change my own oil 2. easy, only remember using a screwdriver. 3. I got mine at the dealer with a 20% off coupon they provided in my thank you / welcome package.
I'd recommend a toyota one over a third-party. None that I've seen looks as good on the car as Toyota's does. After you install the protector, reinstall the rubber from the underside of the hood as it will continue to protect and do its job. You use 1 or 2 of the connection points to install the hood protector, and the rubber will reinstall just fine.
How did you re-attach the rubber gasket after you installed the hood protector? The little plastic buttons that hold the gasket on have to be removed (to put on the protector) and I think they are one time only use.
I assume that is the same sound that many of the earlier HL's experienced. There is a TSB out. I went to the service manager, he looked up the serial number, said yes, I was within the TSB, we scheduled an appointment, and it was corrected in less than a hour. The problems seems to be the door gaskets on the "A" column.
I cannot believe that dealers are so quick to say "a design problem." I bet Toyota frowns on that excuse.
I'll repost from my marked message... Have your dealer look up TSB NVO12-01 Title is "Wind noise at 'A' pillar" Dated November 30, 2001 Front door weather strips, left and right, were changed in accordance with this bulletin and the noises went away on my vehicle. Old part number 67861-48020 rh 67862-48020 lh New part ends in 21 instead of 20 Warranty covered this change at no cost.
This noise was most noticeable when gusty wind conditions were present and speeds were 50 mph or above.
It has been 3 months since I had them changed, peace and quiet now...
I am looking at the Highlander but am concerned about off-road ability. I am looking for moderate off-road ability, ability to drive dirt roads with washboards, ruts and small rocks. Any input or experience? Also what about climbing ability up dirt or mountain roads?
My wife and I just picked up our black limited v6 awd, and so far, are very happy! This vehicle is extremely quiet and has plenty of power and room for our family. I've got a few questions for you guys. 1. I always change my oil every 3000 miles and do it myself. Should a first oil change be done before 3000 miles.
2. Waxing- do i need to wait a few weeks before waxing the vehicle?
I'm in the Gulf States area. My service rep. has offered to change the seat cover, but it sounds like that won't solve the problem.
He then told me they've never heard of a seat cover coming untucked and made me feel like it was my problem! I'm very disappointed with Toyota's service.
If you still have those posting about the leather coming untucked, would you mind e-mailing them to me or posting the message numbers? I've tried using the search feature to find them but haven't had any luck. I'd like to show them it's not my problem!
I have a 2002 Highlander Limited V6 4x4, and it appears to have some kind of alarm system on it. I have keyless entry and if I lock the doors and then force one of the door locks open (with the window down, reaching in and opening it manually), then the horn goes off and makes lots of noise and the lights flash.
But I've looked at many sites on the internet and it seems like the programming for the RS3000 and RS3200 don't work, and those say they are for cars without the keyless entry. So I guess that the RS3000/3200 is not installed in my vehicle.
So what the heck do I have and what options are there? I want to have the ignition controlled locks (lock the doors when start, unlock when turn off ignition), and passive arming (30 seconds after everything closed it will lock up). Can I do this with whatever is already in there?
Also what exactly is the "prewire for alarm" option -- I have it on the MSRP sticker and it is all over Toyota's brochures, but of course you don't get any info with the vehicle about what the pins are and/or where they are located. I am really temped to put in an after market alarm system (since it would be better for the money), but I don't want someone who doesn't know about my car and that barely knows how to use a multimeter messing up my electrical system. Since I have the engine disable system (fat keys) I'm not sure how that works either.
All Limited models come standard with the factory alarm system (RS 3200 Plus..whatever that is). For those who do not have a Limited model, the HL is already prewired to add an alarm system. However, I'm not sure if the prewire will work with aftermarket systems. Perhaps someone else here can shed better light on that subject.
If you would like to enhance the alarm you already have, you can add the "glass breakage sensor", an item which, as the name implies, "listens" for the frequencies associated with the sound of breaking glass.
Regarding the keys, only the factory keys will work. Each key has a chip embedded in it which corresponds to that vehicle only. While you may be able to go to the neighborhood hardware store and have a new key cut (that WILL open the doors and turn the ignition), it WILL NOT start the vehicle. Trust me, you do not want to lose a key. I just did and the replacement costs around $200, including a new fob.
As far a delayed/passive arming, I believe this is available to you and the dealer should be able to set this up for you. Regarding the ignition controlling the locks, I'm not sure that's an available feature. Again, I would let the dealer look into this for you.
I'll vouch for the Highlander offroad. I've taken it over all kinds of mud, washed out dirt roads, gravel, snow, ruts, and even a shallow pond or two. And that was before I replaced the stock tires with larger All-terrains.
As long as you drive it smart, you shouldn't have any problems with moderate offroading.
We would like to hear from the 4 cylinder owners to see if they are happy with that engine. Will it be adequate with 2 wheel drive? what kind of mileage are you getting with it? Thanks
Thanks for the info on keys/alarm system. Here is one other question for you. I have a non-limited with hardly any options. Can I add a remote door lock/unlock with key fob or does it need to be from the factory that way?
Limiteds have factory alarms and engine immobilizer as standard features. They are not programmable in terms of auto arm, auto door lock after start etc.
RS3200 is for vehicles without factory keyless entry, RS3200 plus is for a vehicle with factory keyless entry, they both have a myriad of programming options. Again, neither of these apply to the Limited's factory installed alarm.
i had the dealer install the toyo hood protector at no cost, to make up for some other screw-up, but i don't think they put the gasket back on. i'll check again this weekend, but am wondering if i should be concerned enough to go back and argue about it.
They did't put the gasket back on mine either.....no ill effects so far, after a few months and some pretty nasty weather and road coditions. I just checked under the hood today and there appears to be another gasket in front of the engine that affords some protection.
Comments
Thanks in advance!
The impact wrenches can easily go 2 to 3 times that.
And bubba always has them on high. He has never had a problem.
Out here at the World's largest Toyota dealer, they use Mobil 5W-30.
I've had mine changed twice with Blackstone Analysis each time, and there were no problems.
I became concerned when all the talk of gelling started and was all set to go to Mobil 1. Called the tech at Blackstone, and to my surprise, he advised against it, saying that the regular Dino oil was better at carrying the problems that cause the gelling to the filter where they can be removed. So, I kept the straight Dino oil ( Mobil ) in there just to see what will happen next time.
What was your percentage of insolubles? It should be <0.6%. On my last test, the figure was 0.4% at 4200 miles on the oil.
Don't sweat the high silicon levels. Mine were 255 and 52 repectfully, and I expect them to drop much lower the next test.
Try Blackstone next time. Only costs 20 dollars.
What to do? Unless you check the torque yourself, the next best thing would be to request they check each one with a torque wrench, and not rely on the torque rods they use with an air impact wrench.
This Toyota service was at Ourisman Fairfax Toyota in Fairfax, VA, where even the most simple items (like lug torque) were done incorrectly.
5759 of 5763 Re: Rotors and Brakes by wcp May 17, 2002 (04:30 pm)
I read it from somewhere that incorrect torquing of the wheel lugnuts would warp the rotors. The pneumatic tools many mechanics use are especially easy to cause this problem. Is this true?
Is your dealer Longo? I'm originally from S. Calif but didn't have a Toyota until long after I moved east. Dealer here recommends 10-30 as our summers are hot and extremely humid.
My dealer actually did the first analysis for me after I talked to the service manager about getting it done so I was just assuming the cost would be around $25-30. I'll find out for sure with the next one. I don't see an insolubles as a percentage unless it is the line showing TBN (D2896) which is shown as .5 (but not a %). I also became concered when the postings about sludge and the special policy started and decided to get the test done to know the facts about my HL rather than assuming things were worse or better than they really were. I love the vehicle and would buy another one today...I also have a silver one ;-)
On my ordered gray limited custom highlander mats, the front floor mat seems to have a defect. Around the edge of the mat is a 1 inch trim that borders the mat. On my right front floor mat, the border stops short on the top right corner leaving the corner without the border. This is my second pair like this. Could you please check to see if this is a design flaw or have I just gotten two sets that a both wrong.
I tried to email you a photo to show how to reattach the bottom of the leather, but your email address in the profile here is no long active, or at least that's what the return said. If you would like to see the photo, please email me (gwkiser@yahoo.com) and I'll be happy to send it out.
Did you ever get those leather door panels fixed?
Looking forward to your reply,
seemomgo in OK
There is no TBN on my two test results from Blackstone. Maybe that is an extra charge item; I'm not sure. The tech said that what I needed to know about the gelling problem would show up under the insolubles, and that mine was fine, as it was below 0.06%.
Blackstone has a website: www.blackstone-labs.com/
There are many other site available also, but this one has a place that can answer FAQ.
They will send you out a free test kit, which you use and mail back with a check for $18.50. After that, they mail you two kits with your name and address already printed on the labels. Sounds like they like the business. Refreshing, no?
Tip: Tell the nosey type at the P.O. that it is a soil sample or it'll cost you twice as much for postage! I paid over $3.00 the first time because it had to go into some different packaging that the P. O. clerk 'said' was necessary. The next time, I told them when they asked, that it was dirt.
Excellent choice is color BTW. And like you, I'd buy another in a nano-second. Finest running vehicle I've ever had.
I have had my 2001 Highlander for eleven months now, and have over 16,000 miles on it. Like pdalpsher and silverhlltd, I would buy another one...in fact, I would not hesitate to do so. It has been a great vehicle for me. The only problem I had to address through warranty was the Homelink system in the visor appartently shorted out...even the little light went out. So, the service manager checked it, determined it did need replacing, and I had a replacement very quickly....I consider that a very minor issue (by the way, they simply replaced the entire visor...it was a very quick change out).
In mixed driving, both highway/freeway and around town, I average about 20.5 MPG, although on long trips I have gotten well over 25 at times. For my needs, it has plenty of "get up and go" and I have found the V-6 220 horse power to come in handy during freeway merges and related needs for prompt accelaration (my last car was a 4 cyl Honda Accord...which was a little under powered for me, but I do have about a three or four mile 7% grade that I have to travel over to work and back as well as some other hilly roads).
I continue to be very happy with my Highlander.
Ron
open the small square cap behind the door release lever(another screw will be found there, now the hard part; the piece of plastic that surrounds the door release lever has to come out, carefully with a small and thin flat head screwdriver pry up and out above the locking button and below the handle pivot point. it's only going to move slightly out because behind this cup there's a L plastic piece that also holds it in place. so pull outwards and towards the front.
then Pry out the snaps around the edges of the panel (10 or so) and the door is ready to come out.
lift the panel up and then out, and quick-disconnect harness for the wires for the door switches and the courtesy lights.
thats it.
hope this helps
I'm looking for caster (which is typically not adjustable on front wheel drive cars), camber and toe in. The setting would be expressed in degrees or inches. There is a preferred setting and an acceptable range, usually with a maximum of left to right amount. My 2002 hl is going back to the dealer on Thursday for a pull to the left, and I'm concerned that the caster is out. Why I don't know, but it has been re-aligned once already.
I also am experiencing vibration at about 70 mph and above, and the tires have been re-balanced, and the car only has 5,500 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
they have a real big acceptable range of front settings for warranty work, different from specs for customer paid work and allow a big viariation between front wheels. I had to get an independant mech to fix mine
i had the same thing in 1993 with my dodge, but i didn't expect it in 2002 and with a $30,000 hl or a toyota dealer. please advise. thanks.
Find a shop that has Hunter equipment, and the personel who knows how to use it properly.
See:http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/product.htm
Specifically, you need the GSP 9700 system. You can go to their site and use their locater to find where there is a shop that has the equipment that is the best there is for solving your balancing problems.
Do you have steel wheels or the alloys. Reason for asking: There was a chap up North that had steel wheels, and one was out-of-round. The dealer had worked on it more than once, but stated that they were balanced correctly and they probably were, but IF they are not round, they will act like they aren't balanced. Read all about how that machine works, and you'll be able to understand how and what is needed to properly balance a wheel and tire combination. This balancer tells the operator how to mount the wheel and the tire so their sweat spots are together. This guy up North also had a bad factory tire from GY, so putting a bad tire on a out-of-round wheel spelled trouble.
To bad you not located near one of Hunter's training centers. If you were, it is sometimes possible to get the work done gratis if you can leave your car so that they have a vehicle to use for training.
Concerning the alignment specifications, mine is a 2001.
Am I correct in assuming that those specs would be the same for either year? If so, I have 'em.
Good luck!
I brought all of the postings on this forum and also from the yahoo forum to try and show the toyota rep that this is not an isolated problem and that the port installed leather seems to be a ongoing problem.
I wonder if that gets any further than se toyota, in other words does this info get to main toyota headquarters and what does it take before they make a design change on this seat cover attachment.
Does the factory installed leather have this problem, or is there no factory installed leather?
Earl
Upon reaching 78mph, there was a whistling noise emitted from the top of the windshield area not unlike when one would blow air across a soda bottle.
Is anyone else experiencing this problem, and if so what was done to correct it. The service mgr told me this was a design flaw and there was nothing he could do??? Is this correct??Help!!!
Thanks,
Earl
if any participant has had asignment problems, could you plesae post the type of problem, and the solution. thanks.
2. easy, only remember using a screwdriver.
3. I got mine at the dealer with a 20% off coupon they provided in my thank you / welcome package.
I'd recommend a toyota one over a third-party. None that I've seen looks as good on the car as Toyota's does. After you install the protector, reinstall the rubber from the underside of the hood as it will continue to protect and do its job. You use 1 or 2 of the connection points to install the hood protector, and the rubber will reinstall just fine.
I cannot believe that dealers are so quick to say "a design problem." I bet Toyota frowns on that excuse.
I hope this helps.
Happy HL'ing to all.
Have your dealer look up TSB NVO12-01
Title is "Wind noise at 'A' pillar"
Dated November 30, 2001
Front door weather strips, left and right, were changed in accordance with this bulletin and the noises went away on my vehicle.
Old part number 67861-48020 rh
67862-48020 lh
New part ends in 21 instead of 20
Warranty covered this change at no cost.
This noise was most noticeable when gusty wind conditions were present and speeds were 50 mph or above.
It has been 3 months since I had them changed, peace and quiet now...
1. I always change my oil every 3000 miles and do it myself. Should a first oil change be done before 3000 miles.
2. Waxing- do i need to wait a few weeks before waxing the vehicle?
Thanks very much.
I'm in the Gulf States area. My service rep. has offered to change the seat cover, but it sounds like that won't solve the problem.
He then told me they've never heard of a seat cover coming untucked and made me feel like it was my problem! I'm very disappointed with Toyota's service.
If you still have those posting about the leather coming untucked, would you mind e-mailing them to me or posting the message numbers? I've tried using the search feature to find them but haven't had any luck. I'd like to show them it's not my problem!
Thanks, seemomgo
But I've looked at many sites on the internet and it seems like the programming for the RS3000 and RS3200 don't work, and those say they are for cars without the keyless entry. So I guess that the RS3000/3200 is not installed in my vehicle.
So what the heck do I have and what options are there? I want to have the ignition controlled locks (lock the doors when start, unlock when turn off ignition), and passive arming (30 seconds after everything closed it will lock up). Can I do this with whatever is already in there?
Also what exactly is the "prewire for alarm" option -- I have it on the MSRP sticker and it is all over Toyota's brochures, but of course you don't get any info with the vehicle about what the pins are and/or where they are located. I am really temped to put in an after market alarm system (since it would be better for the money), but I don't want someone who doesn't know about my car and that barely knows how to use a multimeter messing up my electrical system. Since I have the engine disable system (fat keys) I'm not sure how that works either.
Thanks in advance for any/all alarm experiences.
If you would like to enhance the alarm you already have, you can add the "glass breakage sensor", an item which, as the name implies, "listens" for the frequencies associated with the sound of breaking glass.
Regarding the keys, only the factory keys will work. Each key has a chip embedded in it which corresponds to that vehicle only. While you may be able to go to the neighborhood hardware store and have a new key cut (that WILL open the doors and turn the ignition), it WILL NOT start the vehicle. Trust me, you do not want to lose a key. I just did and the replacement costs around $200, including a new fob.
As far a delayed/passive arming, I believe this is available to you and the dealer should be able to set this up for you. Regarding the ignition controlling the locks, I'm not sure that's an available feature. Again, I would let the dealer look into this for you.
Good luck.
As long as you drive it smart, you shouldn't have any problems with moderate offroading.
Thanks a lot.
RS3200 is for vehicles without factory keyless entry, RS3200 plus is for a vehicle with factory keyless entry, they both have a myriad of programming options. Again, neither of these apply to the Limited's factory installed alarm.
i'll check again this weekend, but am wondering if i should be concerned enough to go back and argue about it.
rap