I've started noticing that my year-old Highlander is the only car in the parking lot that has fog on the inside of all the windows at the end of the work day. It appears as if there is some wet area inside the car that is forming condensation, but I can't find any dampness anywhere. (For example, my old Explorer had a window leak that caused the same problem during rainy weather.) Anyone else have this problem or any idea what may be causing it?
I thought it was just me? My wife called after work today to ask what the heck was going on with this light.. Apparently the manual says "Go to dealer immediately" "2. The airbag dash light comes on when very cold and will not go off until shutting off engine. "
Saw this last week and decided it was something to worry about later. Lots of nasty things happen when it gets this cold. My daughter's coolant reservoir (97 VW) departed this vale of tears this AM. -24C here now.
Do you have the heating/climate controls set to "recirc"? This could cause any moisture brought into the car to stay in the car, and later condense on your windows.
Another thing - check the coolant level in the reservoir. I small leak in the heater core could also cause this - although I would guess that you would smell the unmistakeable sweetness of coolant.
Toyota and Lexus use an automatic climate control designed by the idiots at NipponDenso, Denso USA. Your best solution is to open the sunroof in your garage at night so teh passenger cabin can dry out.
In the alternative turn the A/C off manually, turn the blower full up, and lower the rear windows slightly about 20 minutes before you finally shut down for the day.
the Camry V-6 has the new 5-speed auto as of the turn of the year...to the Toyota dealers among us, can the Highlander be far behind (he asked hopefully!)???
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Ok, let me correct a post earlier about what to do. First, having the A/C running even when the heat is going is a good thing. This is because, at least on Toyota's, it dehumidifys the air inside the cabin. The two settings that I keep no matter what the temperature and where the fan is blowing are "fresh air" and A/C on. I occasionally recirculate the air if it is exceptionally hot or cold or if I'm going through a very smelly construction zone, but other than that, you can have these settings on all of the time. Also if you just want fresh air without dehumidifying it, you can turn the A/C button off.
But to turn it off when you're already having problems with condensation is just going to compound the problem. It may help when you're parking indoors to crack a window or moonroof, but again, it depends on the circumstances. If the outside humidity is high, it will also compound any problem you have.
I would like to rent a Highlander for a few days. I am currently driving a '95 Mercedes E300D. I broke my back 30 years ago and sometimes have recurring back problems with some seats. Renting on for a coupld of days prior to buying would sure make me feel better.
Any suggestions on where I can rent one for a couple of days? I am in Southern California.
Go to a dealer and tell them exactly what you told us. They will either let you drive one for a couple of days to see if you like it before buying or rent you one for a couple of days. I would start there. That would also give you an idea if you want to do business with that dealership depending on how they treat you. Nothing to lose.
Frank, I had the same concern as you - is the 4 cylinder powerful enough. Considered both the 4 and 6 cyl fwd. I test drove the 4 cyl a number of times, a whole lot of times, and finally bought it. After three months, I'm still very glad about my decision: saved a couple of thousand on the purchase price, great gas mileage for this size car and best of all this little 4 banger is quiet (very little engine noise) and has plenty of get up and go. Last week I took a trip and had no problems passing on the freeway going 75 mph. Just like you I keep my cars a long time: previous Toyota had 150,000 miles, current Honda has 160,000 and I plan on getting the same type of usage out of my Highlander. I would probably had purchased the 6 cyl if I lived in a hilly area like San Francisco or Aspen Colorado or planned on towing something very heavy like a large boat or wanted to get awd on the car. My only suggestion is to test dive the 4 cylinder a number of times without a sales rep and take the machine out on a highway for an hour and put it through its paces. Also, while I was making my decision, my best source of what I felt was reliable information were reviews and comments on message boards by owners. I don't trust any auto sales reps and even professional reviews are biased. If you do this research, you'll find that almost all 4 cyl owners have favorable comments about the engine capacity and it's performance. Also, this site has a message board titled "4 vs 6 cylinders" I would read these messages, they deal with exactly this issue. Good Luck.
Any TRAC dealer would have highlanders for you to rent...you can find the TRAC dealers nearest you by going to toyota.com and clicking on the TRAC locator.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Appreciate your comments. Just rented a 6 cylinder for about the 5th time this winter for a business trip and put a 1,000 klms on it. Unfortunately the rental agency doesn't have any of the 4's. Only test drove the 4 for about 15 minutes and will go back for a longer drive. I think that its going to be the 4. Still wondering if anyone out there has been able to get some miles on their 4's and see how they are holding out? I know the HL has not been out that long but someone must be running up the clock on their 4 banger out there.
Not sure what the complaints are about the seat. I am a big guy and this is one of the more comfortable seats I have parked myself in. My job gives me the ability to rent a lot of vehicles and I can honestly say this is one of the more comfortable ones. Interesting note, my Chiropractor drives a HL Limited and the first thing he checks out are the seats.
As for other issues, I agree with the high beams, lots of width but no real distance. I don't find the tree accessories that "intuitive". Everything else about this vehicle I do like. Most importantly my wife drove one for the first time and in her words "whats not to like!"
With the advent of the less efficient refrigerant the A/C evaporator had to become much more complex and dense to make up for the loss of efficiency.
Moisture condenses on these chilled evaporator surfaces at the molecular level, and then gradually builds up to droplets large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then those droplets start flowing down the surfaces and thus out the drain tube and onto the ground.
The final point is that when you shut the car down after just having used the A/C the 10,000 square inches of evaporator surface area will still be holding as much as a quart of moisture as a thin molecular film. That thin film will now evaporate into the system plenum and from there into the cabin and in many cases subsequently condense on any nearby cool surfaces, most likely the interior window surfaces.
Personally I have found it more beneficial than not to open the A/C compressor circuit during the winter months, both in my C4 and RX, and then use windshield airflow heating alone to control condensation and humidity levels.
Wwest, I started selling toyota's about 10 years ago and have owned them since I bought by '89 Camry. From both my own experience (which I think is pretty extensive and up-to-date) and from that of multiple customers, I have NEVER known of ANY Toyota that cleared the windows when fogged better without the A/C running with or without the heat on. And similarly, I have NEVER had the windows fog up on a Toyota product other than when we bring it out of a warm detail shop with all of the warm, wet air into a cold environment or when you have alot of people in the vehicle WITHOUT the A/C running with or without heat.
Wwest, I enjoy our discussions as well as our disagreements about what works and what doesn't. I'm also glad to see that you state that "personally" you have these experiences just to clarify that what you experience may not be what every other Toyota and/or Lexus owner experiences.
>Most importantly my wife drove one for the first >time and in her words "whats not to like!"
True, and I am still glad we bought ours, but there are always things that emerge after longer trips that are not apparent during shorter ones. My comments on the seats were based on 35 hours of driving over four days, in the worst weather that the maritimes can provide, solo. Several reviews that I have read have commented on the short seat bottoms (limited thigh support) and that they look nicer than they feel. I have the Limited, with leather, and I wonder if the fabric would not have been a better choice.
I am used to driving BMWs, which generally have nearly perfect control/instrument ergonomics, but not necessarily great seats either. Does not stop me from buying them.
Toyota charges a pretty high price for this car here in Canada, and other manufacturers can include things like wheel-mounted sound system controls on cars that go for far less. I think they are intentionally segregating the market from the Lexus product, which price-wise is not that far up from the Highlander Limited. Honda does the same with the Pilot and MDX. For less money than the Highlander, though, the Pilot offers many more (and better) convenience features. Just doesn't, IMHO, drive as well.
Just found out our special order HL is in! It just needs to have the leather seats added and then we will pick it up at the end of the month. Now about the Break-in period ... I have a question. My wife and I are going to be going to Atlanta on Feb 28th to see Springsteen in concert. Is it a big No-No to take a brand new HL on the interstate for such a trip, since it would be at a pretty steady speed. It will be about 700 to 800 miles round trip. If it may be a problem I'll take my Ranger instead. Thanks for any info or suggestions you can give me. dpw
Having been a toyota owner for the better part of 20 years I must agree with Toytaken. I have always found the best and most effective way of getting rid of condensation or vapor on windows to be with the use of the defrost mode which includes the AC mode. I haven't the foggiest idea what the heck Wwest is talking about?
the break in period is the most important 500 miles you will drive....it is very strongly recommended that you follow the break in procedure closely (in owners manual). That means NO long periods of same speed (regardless of speed). It is important to vary the speed and to put moderate loads on the engine (mild acceleration) frequently. This helps prevent a ring pattern from developing in the cylinders that will later lead to high oil consumption. With varying speeds you bed in all of the parts, bearings, journal, rings, valve train, etc., such that they don't have a specific pattern that is set by running a constant (even if moderate) speed. Take the Ranger, and break the car in running errands. My experience with condensation, after 12,000 miles and most of a winter in Tennessee with some snowfall and lots of rain and cold, is that running the AC and defroster is the best way to clear the windshield...as it has been my experience in every other car I have driven.
Just installed a Hidden Hitch #70777 class III hitch. Easy to install and looks great.
Question: my 2003 Highlander has the towing package with "pre-wiring". Where is this wiring located on the vehicle? Do I need to buy a wiring adaptor kit? If so, where can the kit be purchased and is it easy to install on my own?
this is located in a black plastic box behind left rear wheel...there is a molded wire connector on the wires in there that needs to be pulled out...don't take off the cover, just fish around and pull it out...you will need to buy a connector (Toyota doesn't stock them here!) to run it to the hitch...try etrailer.com and get part number 18245 for about $14 plus shipping...this has a flat four connector on one end and one that matches your plug in the towing package...just plug it in and use wire ties to fasten to the hitch....good luck.
Has anyone else noticed that the standard steel rim holds water on the inside? I have winter tires mounted on these steel rims and just finished washing and noticed about a half cup of standing water in the inside of the wheel.Could see where this may be a balance problem if it was to freeze.The aluminum mag wheel doesn't have a lip on the inside to hold water.
"Moisture condenses on these chilled evaporator surfaces at the molecular level, and then gradually builds up to droplets large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then those droplets start flowing down the surfaces and thus out the drain tube and onto the ground.
The final point is that when you shut the car down after just having used the A/C the 10,000 square inches of evaporator surface area will still be holding as much as a quart of moisture as a thin molecular film. That thin film will now evaporate into the system plenum and from there into the cabin and in many cases subsequently condense on any nearby cool surfaces, most likely the interior window surfaces."
What this ignores is where that moisture came FROM in the first place - the inside of your car. If you never turn ON the AC, the air inside your car isn't run through the compressor, thus the moisture doesn't collect there - it STAYS on your windshield, floormats, etc. At least by running the AC, you draw the moisture out of the passenger compartment and into the condensor where it will eventually run out of the system. Who cares if the car fogs up after you get out? You're not driving it then. And if that's a really big concern, shut the AC off the last 5 minutes of your trip and let it blow hot to dry out the plenum - if it's THAT big a deal.
Was stopped at a traffic light this saturday last, and a Dodge came out of nowhere and hit me from behind at 10-15 mph. Have to say I'm pretty impressed the highlander escaped almost unscathed. Some paint got scraped on the rear bumper but no dents, and the dodge was badly damaged !! Am wondering if I have to check something else for damage when I take the car to the mechanic for repaint ?
Wouldn't hurt to put it on a lift and have the bodyshop check it out before painting stuff. Could be something wrinkled under there or the stryofoam in the bumper could be crushed.
Can anyone help me. I recently purchased a 2003 Highlander with headrests that push my head forward to the point of being very uncomfortable and painful after driving move that 20-25 miles. Has anyone else experienced the same problem and have you been able to resolve the issue? Toyota and the dealership are not interested in helping me.
Not sure if it's specific to the Limited, or to leather seats, but mine can be rotated a bit. If I put one hand on the top of the headrest, one on the bottom, I can move it "roll" it forward and backward enough to make a significant change in how it's positioned.
That motion requires just a little more force than I thought would be necessary, but it could be what you're finding to be a pain in the neck (groan).
are anti-whiplash design, to minimize the rearward motion of your head in a rear ender...make sure you have the height adjusted correctly and the back of the seat at the right tilt for comfort....as a victim of a rear ender in an Acura Legend I suffered a herniated C3-C4 disc in my neck. That was 6 years ago and I am on painkillers 24/7 to this day....I later learned that the Acura's headrest design was POOR rated for whiplash...you can get the ratings from the NHTA website, but Toyota gets a mixed rating..better than some but not outstanding as others have done..some even have motorized now....look on whiplash.com for more info....good luck.
Thanks for all the replies to my condensation conundrum which, naturally, has not recurred since I posted my message.
One question, though... Some of you suggested that I turn on the AC along with the defroster, and others indicated that the AC is automatically activated in Toyotas when the defroster is on. Which?
Read somewhere, possibly Consumer Reports or some other crash test report, that the Highlander did very well in rear crash tests, (but not very well in front crash tests), in terms of the cost to repair the damage.
From the 2001 Highlander brochure: "And the front bumper has all-aluminum reinforcement, designed to transmit force to the side members and dissipate it, while the rear bumper is reinforced by a solid steel bar."
To cmcardle and bigdad. Thanks for your comments. I have also been the victim of whiplash and that is one of the reasons having my head pushed forward so much that my chin almost hits my chest is extremely painful. I have driven my car exactly 3 times and am now having therapy to try to get my neck and shoulders to stop being so painful. As to the rotation feature - neither my neighbor, nor myself can rotate our headrests and we have tried. Also, the dealer tried to move the headrest without success. Any more suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks.
I was rear ended at low speed by a person on a cell phone about 6 months ago. What was a little scrape on my HL's rear bumper cost his insurance company $408 (new bumper cover: $204, paint and clear coat: $144, Labor: $60).
Unfortunately for him, we were both braking at the time and his Volvo actually rode under my HL, and the HL's towing eyelet that's located close to the muffler sliced through his front bumper, headlight, and hood.
Just wondering if something might be wrong with my 2002 V-6 non-Limited. I'm on the verge of turning 3,000 miles, all very short trips. 3,000 miles in 10 months. I'm only getting about 12mpg!! I know it has been very cold but I only warm up for a couple of minutes.
Could it be that the engine is still breaking in & will improve with mileage?
I forgot to mention my Highlander is a AWD but still,12mpg! One of these days I will get a chance to check the highway mileage. Any others using all this petro? Thanks.
MPG usually improves over the first ten thousand miles so it's still early days for you. The winter is hard on mpg anyway, and you may be using oxygenated fuels that aren't great for mileage either.
Also, are you calculating the mpg the "correct" (i.e., old fashioned) way or using a mileage computer in the Highlander?
Maybe it's possible that the engine/tranny computer is set for short hops learned from your driving style and could benefit from a reset? Anyone?
A number of people have had your experience. The following applies to the non-Ltd...not sure about the Ltd. You can remove the headrest and reverse it, giving your head a flatter surface to lean against. Many of us find this much more satisfactory. Downside is that the graduated steps won't hold the headrest at various heights since they are not present on both posts, but I think it is a small price to pay for comfort.
I have a 2001 HL Limited(with factory leather) and both front headrests arch at their top to reduce/increase the tilt. I have used it many times when traveling on long trips, and it is great for changing seating position to reduce road fatigue!
I wonder if this is a Limited model feature, only on factory leather seats(I doubt it but??) or if only the 2001s had this adjustability?!?!
Since you have driven the HL so little I am assuming you have a 2003; perhaps there may have been a model year headrest change in 2002 or 2003. I see two ways to determine what has changed: 1) Stop at your dealer(or somehow find a 2001 Ltd w/ factory leather) and see how they operate. 2)If you can not find a used 2001 LTD to inspect, go to the Parts department and have them compare the part# of a 2001 HL Ltd with leather to the headrest's part # installed in your HL.
Perhaps you can purchase other(i.e. 2001 or LTD, or w/leather) factory headrests to install in your HL. Sorry I can not direct you to the exact part #, but be assured there are HLs that have this adjustability!
Hope this helps as I have had back problems in the past (i.e. I was standing in my dry cleaners and a car drove through the picture window striking me). Good luck, Dan
- I have an '02 Limited with leather, so if it changed, it was just this year. However, I seem to recall seeing that no changes were made.
- Buying a replacement headrest might be an option, as might the "reverse" maneuver described by jwfjwf. As for the notches to hold it in place, those could be done by a machining shop or anyone comfortable working with metal.
The moisture condensed on the evaporator had better NOT have come from within the car! If it does then you have been violating the first rule of defogging, NEVER use the system in recirculate.
The evaporator surfaces can NEVER be chilled below 32F absent clogging with frozen moisture.
Early Lexus/Toyota automatic climate control systems would disable the A/C compressor COMPLETELY and TOTALLY if the OAT declined below about 35F. Newer models use the evaporator's downstream air temperature sensor to disable the A/C compressor WHENEVER that airflow is below 32F.
So it should be clear to all that the A/C cannot be used to facilitate defogging/demist functionality below those temperatures.
The ability of the A/C system to dehumidify the incoming airflow and thus be an aid in demisting/defogging the windshield/windows can also be severely limited by the unforgiving and unbendable laws of physics.
As you can already see, the A/C system cannot, is never used, to chill the incoming airflow below 32F. In order for the dehumidification process to occur the air mass must be chilled to its dewpoint, the point at which the air mass can no longer hold the level of moisture it contains and that moisture begins to precipitate out of the air mass as fog, rain, etc, but in our case condenses onto the evaporator vanes.
So the ability of the A/C to aid in defog/demist functionality declines precipitously with OAT temperatures and humidity.
But, try this yourself, after your vehicle interior acclimates to the system setpoint, say 72F, switch the system to defog/demist and verify that the airflow temperature to the windshield actually DECLINES as much as 20F below the footwell airflow outlet temperature.
No heated airflow, no dehumidification functionality and the windshield is fogged over, good luck.
Finally, if you have an early, say 90 to 95, set of shop manuals you will find a caution note to the mechanic/technician warning of sudden windshield/window fogging if the A/C system is inadvertantly or automatically shut down during test driving in cooler and humid climates.
I am traveling at the moment, our teamseattle #5 car won the SRPII class at Daytona, but as soon as I return I will publish the warning note.
If anyone has replaced their air filter by themselves, kindly post a short procedure. I just want to verify what has to be disconnected to get the air box fully open. Thanks.
Its nothing complicated. Just undo all the latches holding the top of the case down and take the filter out. There are hoses in the way - just move them aside.
Also meant to say there was something in the paper work about inspecting/aligning a energy absorber, impact bar, and side supports (parts of the bumper that LandDriver and Steve mentioned, I assume).
Comments
"2. The airbag dash light comes on when very cold and will not go off until shutting off engine. "
Saw this last week and decided it was something to worry about later. Lots of nasty things happen when it gets this cold. My daughter's coolant reservoir (97 VW) departed this vale of tears this AM.
-24C here now.
Do you have the heating/climate controls set to "recirc"? This could cause any moisture brought into the car to stay in the car, and later condense on your windows.
Another thing - check the coolant level in the reservoir. I small leak in the heater core could also cause this - although I would guess that you would smell the unmistakeable sweetness of coolant.
In the alternative turn the A/C off manually, turn the blower full up, and lower the rear windows slightly about 20 minutes before you finally shut down for the day.
Good luck.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
But to turn it off when you're already having problems with condensation is just going to compound the problem. It may help when you're parking indoors to crack a window or moonroof, but again, it depends on the circumstances. If the outside humidity is high, it will also compound any problem you have.
Hope this helps.
Ken
Any suggestions on where I can rent one for a couple of days? I am in Southern California.
Thanks,
Mirko
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Not sure what the complaints are about the seat. I am a big guy and this is one of the more comfortable seats I have parked myself in. My job gives me the ability to rent a lot of vehicles and I can honestly say this is one of the more comfortable ones. Interesting note, my Chiropractor drives a HL Limited and the first thing he checks out are the seats.
As for other issues, I agree with the high beams, lots of width but no real distance. I don't find the tree accessories that "intuitive". Everything else about this vehicle I do like. Most importantly my wife drove one for the first time and in her words "whats not to like!"
Moisture condenses on these chilled evaporator surfaces at the molecular level, and then gradually builds up to droplets large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then those droplets start flowing down the surfaces and thus out the drain tube and onto the ground.
The final point is that when you shut the car down after just having used the A/C the 10,000 square inches of evaporator surface area will still be holding as much as a quart of moisture as a thin molecular film. That thin film will now evaporate into the system plenum and from there into the cabin and in many cases subsequently condense on any nearby cool surfaces, most likely the interior window surfaces.
Personally I have found it more beneficial than not to open the A/C compressor circuit during the winter months, both in my C4 and RX, and then use windshield airflow heating alone to control condensation and humidity levels.
Wwest, I enjoy our discussions as well as our disagreements about what works and what doesn't. I'm also glad to see that you state that "personally" you have these experiences just to clarify that what you experience may not be what every other Toyota and/or Lexus owner experiences.
Ken
>time and in her words "whats not to like!"
True, and I am still glad we bought ours, but there are always things that emerge after longer trips that are not apparent during shorter ones. My comments on the seats were based on 35 hours of driving over four days, in the worst weather that the maritimes can provide, solo. Several reviews that I have read have commented on the short seat bottoms (limited thigh support) and that they look nicer than they feel. I have the Limited, with leather, and I wonder if the fabric would not have been a better choice.
I am used to driving BMWs, which generally have nearly perfect control/instrument ergonomics, but not necessarily great seats either. Does not stop me from buying them.
Toyota charges a pretty high price for this car here in Canada, and other manufacturers can include things like wheel-mounted sound system controls on cars that go for far less. I think they are intentionally segregating the market from the Lexus product, which price-wise is not that far up from the Highlander Limited. Honda does the same with the Pilot and MDX. For less money than the Highlander, though, the Pilot offers many more (and better) convenience features. Just doesn't, IMHO, drive as well.
My experience with condensation, after 12,000 miles and most of a winter in Tennessee with some snowfall and lots of rain and cold, is that running the AC and defroster is the best way to clear the windshield...as it has been my experience in every other car I have driven.
Question: my 2003 Highlander has the towing package with "pre-wiring". Where is this wiring located on the vehicle? Do I need to buy a wiring adaptor kit? If so, where can the kit be purchased and is it easy to install on my own?
Thank you.
I'll bet they tend to rust after a while because of it. Guess we'll just have to bring an old sponge with us next carwash trip.
Guess there's more beauty to the alloys than meets the eye.
"Moisture condenses on these chilled evaporator surfaces at the molecular level, and then gradually builds up to droplets large enough that gravity overcomes viscosity and then those droplets start flowing down the surfaces and thus out the drain tube and onto the ground.
The final point is that when you shut the car down after just having used the A/C the 10,000 square inches of evaporator surface area will still be holding as much as a quart of moisture as a thin molecular film. That thin film will now evaporate into the system plenum and from there into the cabin and in many cases subsequently condense on any nearby cool surfaces, most likely the interior window surfaces."
What this ignores is where that moisture came FROM in the first place - the inside of your car. If you never turn ON the AC, the air inside your car isn't run through the compressor, thus the moisture doesn't collect there - it STAYS on your windshield, floormats, etc. At least by running the AC, you draw the moisture out of the passenger compartment and into the condensor where it will eventually run out of the system. Who cares if the car fogs up after you get out? You're not driving it then. And if that's a really big concern, shut the AC off the last 5 minutes of your trip and let it blow hot to dry out the plenum - if it's THAT big a deal.
Steve, Host
That motion requires just a little more force than I thought would be necessary, but it could be what you're finding to be a pain in the neck (groan).
One question, though... Some of you suggested that I turn on the AC along with the defroster, and others indicated that the AC is automatically activated in Toyotas when the defroster is on. Which?
Thanks again!
From the 2001 Highlander brochure: "And the front bumper has all-aluminum reinforcement, designed to transmit force to the side members and dissipate it, while the rear bumper is reinforced by a solid steel bar."
I was rear ended at low speed by a person on a cell phone about 6 months ago. What was a little scrape on my HL's rear bumper cost his insurance company $408 (new bumper cover: $204, paint and clear coat: $144, Labor: $60).
Unfortunately for him, we were both braking at the time and his Volvo actually rode under my HL, and the HL's towing eyelet that's located close to the muffler sliced through his front bumper, headlight, and hood.
Could it be that the engine is still breaking in & will improve with mileage?
I forgot to mention my Highlander is a AWD but still,12mpg! One of these days I will get a chance to check the highway mileage. Any others using all this petro? Thanks.
Also, are you calculating the mpg the "correct" (i.e., old fashioned) way or using a mileage computer in the Highlander?
Maybe it's possible that the engine/tranny computer is set for short hops learned from your driving style and could benefit from a reset? Anyone?
Steve, Host
I wonder if this is a Limited model feature, only on factory leather seats(I doubt it but??) or if only the 2001s had this adjustability?!?!
Since you have driven the HL so little I am assuming you have a 2003; perhaps there may have been a model year headrest change in 2002 or 2003. I see two ways to determine what has changed:
1) Stop at your dealer(or somehow find a 2001 Ltd w/ factory leather) and see how they operate.
2)If you can not find a used 2001 LTD to inspect, go to the Parts department and have them compare the part# of a 2001 HL Ltd with leather to the headrest's part # installed in your HL.
Perhaps you can purchase other(i.e. 2001 or LTD, or w/leather) factory headrests to install in your HL. Sorry I can not direct you to the exact part #, but be assured there are HLs that have this adjustability!
Hope this helps as I have had back problems in the past (i.e. I was standing in my dry cleaners and a car drove through the picture window striking me). Good luck, Dan
- Buying a replacement headrest might be an option, as might the "reverse" maneuver described by jwfjwf. As for the notches to hold it in place, those could be done by a machining shop or anyone comfortable working with metal.
The moisture condensed on the evaporator had better NOT have come from within the car! If it does then you have been violating the first rule of defogging, NEVER use the system in recirculate.
The evaporator surfaces can NEVER be chilled below 32F absent clogging with frozen moisture.
Early Lexus/Toyota automatic climate control systems would disable the A/C compressor COMPLETELY and TOTALLY if the OAT declined below about 35F. Newer models use the evaporator's downstream air temperature sensor to disable the A/C compressor WHENEVER that airflow is below 32F.
So it should be clear to all that the A/C cannot be used to facilitate defogging/demist functionality below those temperatures.
The ability of the A/C system to dehumidify the incoming airflow and thus be an aid in demisting/defogging the windshield/windows can also be severely limited by the unforgiving and unbendable laws of physics.
As you can already see, the A/C system cannot, is never used, to chill the incoming airflow below 32F. In order for the dehumidification process to occur the air mass must be chilled to its dewpoint, the point at which the air mass can no longer hold the level of moisture it contains and that moisture begins to precipitate out of the air mass as fog, rain, etc, but in our case condenses onto the evaporator vanes.
So the ability of the A/C to aid in defog/demist functionality declines precipitously with OAT temperatures and humidity.
But, try this yourself, after your vehicle interior acclimates to the system setpoint, say 72F, switch the system to defog/demist and verify that the airflow temperature to the windshield actually DECLINES as much as 20F below the footwell airflow outlet temperature.
No heated airflow, no dehumidification functionality and the windshield is fogged over, good luck.
Finally, if you have an early, say 90 to 95, set of shop manuals you will find a caution note to the mechanic/technician warning of sudden windshield/window fogging if the A/C system is inadvertantly or automatically shut down during test driving in cooler and humid climates.
I am traveling at the moment, our teamseattle #5 car won the SRPII class at Daytona, but as soon as I return I will publish the warning note.
He goes into a detailed explanation of the ionization, etc. of the process, then the kid says "I thought it came from the sky". "Um, yeah."
For some reason, that pops into my head when I read certain posts.
Also meant to say there was something in the paper work about inspecting/aligning a energy absorber, impact bar, and side supports (parts of the bumper that LandDriver and Steve mentioned, I assume).