Most car service dealers buy their oil in bulk, many from re-refineries. Doesn't that mean that eventually all of the re-refined oil will be highly contaminated with synthetic?
I was just out changing the oil and filter on my HL, and had a few thoughts. March 2001 Ltd V6 AWD, 23450 miles, Mobil 1 5W-30 since ~12000, Toyota filters.
I’ve never torqued a oil pan drain bolt in my life, but when I removed the HL's today, I thought “Boy, that’s loose.” I usually just tighten them with whatever ratchet or box-end wrench I’m using at the time. So I checked the Toyota shop manual, and it says 33 ft lbs! That’s a whole lot more that I usually do. I used my normal method, then got out the torque wrench and started tightening toward 33 ft lbs. I quit before I got there, couldn’t believe I wasn’t going to strip it. Anyone have experience or thoughts on this? I use a new washer each time.
One thing I always thought was cool about the V6 is the little diverter under the oil filter, which allows oil to drop straight down without dribbling down the engine or hitting the frame. That is, unless you unscrew the filter too quickly – then it will hit the frame, and in my case, miss the drain pan!
There’s the paradox of getting the engine and oil a little warm for complete draining, and getting the exhaust manifold flesh-searing hot at the same time. So there I am on a Washington DC day which is heading into the 90s, with a long sleeve shirt and mechanics gloves on, getting the oil filter off. Comfy.
You have to add oil quite slowly to this engine, otherwise oil gets up into the well formed by the plastic engine cover, which is not quite sealed to the top of the engine. Then oil will slowly make its way down to the front of the engine. Unsightly, at best. Fortunately, the engine cover comes off easily. There are three 5mm Allen-head nuts at the front, and the back fastener is tricky – the Toyota symbol unscrews! It just pushes back on, but it unscrews to get it off. The engine cover is purely aesthetic – no function, except maybe to keep what’s under it a little cleaner and dryer. You can leave it off if you want to. Watch those Allen head nuts – I expected them to be bolts, and they practically leapt out of their wells as I was taking the cover off.
Original post - "Hmmmm... by wwest Jul 05, 2003 (9:15 pm) Most car service dealers buy their oil in bulk, many from re-refineries. Doesn't that mean that eventually all of the re-refined oil will be highly contaminated with synthetic?"
I don't believe for one second that dealers sell re-refined oil as new. Care to list sources of this information?
But the dealers do buy it in bulk. And I've seen links that indicate that the bulk stuff doesn't have to meet the same API spec as the oil in the quart/liter containers.
Greetings All, Hoping for some input from HL FWD/4 owners. I don't read much about off-pavement driving 'round here. Wondering if I can 'get away with' a FWD/4 vs an AWD/6 Highlander. I live on the edge of the Mojave Desert and will (sometimes) use the HL to access trailheads (death valley, eastern sierras etc) via (sometimes steep) rough rock road ('dirt roads' is too kind) also may run into the occasional snow storm. The $8K difference between a FWD/4 and an AWD/6 HL has to make one wonder. (fwiw, also considering Subaru Forester and Toyota Tundra).
Between the two is the torque/HP of the V6, not the AWD. I don't own either, but I do own an 01 AWD RX, same engine, same driveline.
The HL/RX300 AWD is all wheel drive from a marketing perspective only. On a 4WD dyno the RX checked out at 90/10 F/R torque distribution ratio, and only got up to 75/25 after many minutes of continuing front wheel slippage.
If the HL is available as FWD with the V6 and VSC/Trac that might be the optimal solution.
I have a FWD 4 cyc. Doesn't feel slow to me, but definitely don't have the pickup of the V6. And I don't off-road. The 4 doesn't feel as smooth as the 6 that I test drove. Best thing would be to take both on a long test drive. If I were doing your kind of driving I'd probable consider the 4Runner too, at close to the same price range as a AWD6 Highlander and much better at off-roading.
Try getting your motor hot; draining the oil from the crankcase; letting the motor cool down; THEN slowly remove the filter without scorching your arm. GregB PS. Great points about the filling too fast and removing the cover. I too learned this the hard way.
"The $8K difference between a FWD/4 and an AWD/6 HL has to make one wonder."
Not that I'm advocating the AWD/6 over the FWD/4 or vice versa but note that the difference in price is about $3K, not $8K (see www.toyota.com/html/shop/vehicles/highlander/price/highlander_pri- - ce.html).
Not knowing how steep the rough roads are nor the amount of snow you'll encounter (I only pass through Mojave in the Summer), my gut feel is that you might be happier with the AWD/6 (which is what I have). You don't see much discussion here on off-roading as the Highlander is a car-based SUV (unlike the 4Runner which is a truck-based SUV), and thus most people buy it for light off-roading at best. Ideal would be to test drive the Highlander (or any other vehicles you're considering) on the very roads you're concerned about (rent the vehicle if test driving one from the dealership isn't feasible). (Back when I used to live in a hilly area I made a point of test driving vehicles being considered up steep hills during my initial evaluation phase in figuring out what brand and model I wanted.)
My one & only dealer oil change (freebie), they spilled 1/2 qt on the top, and overfilled the crancase by another 1/2 qt. This is the first time that I had to remove the plastic engine cover. I haven't gone back...
Also why I avoid all the quickie places - they don't take the time yo fully drain the old oil, or clean up after themselves. How else can they do it for $19?
When I do an oil change, I remove the plastic "skid pan" thats between the roll pan and the crossmember. It's just a few 10mm screws, and only adds an additional 5 or 10 minutes to the job. Makes it real easy to access the filter.
Yeah, that little chute under your oil filter is a nice little touch... just make sure you also put a rag on top of the crossmember - there's a hole right in the middle of it that will get oil in it guided by that little filter chute as you loosten the filter.
This evening I changed my rear differential lube to Redline 75W-90 synthetic. Not that it was time to change the diff lube, just to put the synthetic in. What a pain for a simple operation. The fill and drain plugs are 10mm Allen heads (what's the generic term - recessed hex?) and all I have are sockets of that size. So I had to use various extensions to find room to access the fill plug, then it wouldn't budge with the little 3/8 ratchet I first used. FYI, always loosen/remove the fill plug first, otherwise two things might occur - the fluid will glug, glug, glug out of the drain and splash all over the place, especially nice with hot, smelly gear oil, or you find you can't remove the fill plug after you've already drained the fluid! Not a good thing. Anyway, an 18" breaker bar broke the fill plug loose. Drain plug, too. Wait, wait, where's my pump? Couldn't find it in the garage, tried the basement (why would it be there?). Break for dinner, got dark, drag out the dropcord. Find the pump hiding in the first place I looked for it. Grumble. Removed the drain plug, which has a magnet on it. A whole lot of gunk on the magnet. I didn't analyze it, nor get out another magnet to check the content of the gunk, but I assume it's magnetic particles from the gears. I was surprised, and it makes me think I'll change new car gear lubes earlier in the future. I always change the engine oil within the first 500 miles just for cheap insurance, but I haven't done other lubricants very early. So, I expected to change the transfer case tonight also, but that'll wait. Redline doesn't make a synthetic automatic transmission fluid which meets Toyota specs, otherwise I'd do that, too.
For those considering the 4 cyclinder. One benefit of the Four is how easy it is to change the oil and filter. Both drain plug and filter can be reached from the front, without putting the vehicle on ramps. The first time I changed the oil/filter I did it on ramps to get a better look at things and to install a Fumoto oil drain valve. The oil filter is at the lower front of the engine in an upside down position and drips a little oil during removal. Easiest and cleanest oil change I've ever done. It was easy too pouring in the Mobil One from the 5-quart bottle without using a funnel--and didn't get any on the engine!
It was damaged at some point either during shipping, storage or install, and he didn't want to put a new one one. Complete b.s.
If such a hole needed to be there for some reason, Toyota certainly would have made it look like it was supposed to be there... either a perfectly round molded opening, or with a gasket around the edges or something.
I'd be back there the next day to talk with the general manager, demand a new one, and not go back to that service department again.
Thanks for the responses back everyone. 1) This is a Toyota manufactured rear spoiler and not a aftermarket item. 2) Have contacted Toyota via phone and email, and still no answer from them. Has been 3 days now. 3) I knew the service manager was slinging b.s., but wanted to confirm especially from Toyota's end. 4) This has definitely not been a good experience either from the local dealership or corporate Toyota. When I purchased the vehicle originally, they had to order in the spoiler and some touch up paint because of a couple of chips on the hood. Well when the spoiler came in, of course the touch up paint did not come in for over a week later. Instead of one trip to the dealership, had to make 2. 5) Thought that buying a highly rated vehicle, in this case a Toyota Highlander, would stop some of the b.s. I have experienced from American brand models.
Just caught the service manager in another lie concerning the rear spoiler. When I was at the dealership, I asked if there were anymore Highlander's on the lot with a rear spoiler. He pointed out that there was only one. A green one that did not have a spoiler. Stupid me did not drive through the new car lot and confirm for myself. Well, I decided to check their website just now. What do you know. They have 10 Highlander's on the lot. 3 of them Limited's with rear spoilers. I will be going to the dealership after work and check out the rear spoilers on them. Thanks for letting me rant.
Good luck in getting your issue resolved. Fortunately this will probably be one of the few problems that you encounter with your HL, but can't say that about your dealer. Unless you saw the shipping carton, I don't know how you would know if the spoiler is aftermarket or not. My co-worker's spoiler is virtually identical to mine in every way except for the "hole". Again, good luck.
Not sure about the engine or third seat. but VSD is standard, and you can get entertainment system and NV for the limited grade. entertainment for the v6, but no NAV. HID is not available
Forgot, 5speed auto is standard. side curtain is available. since it is "driver and passenger" side airbag, that translate into "no third rwo seat" I don't think Toyota want to reduce sales of RX by making the highlander "too perfect"
I think I would like a black limited with all option when it comes out. I once ride in a 4 cly with another guy, we didn't even notice it is a 4 after the day of driving. and my wife own a RX300, honestly we both can't tell the different between the two engines. Great car.
7/12/03 Click and Clack reported that pedal pressure on HL models is extremely hard on people with knee problems, that driving makes existing problems worsen to the point that some people can no longer drive their cars. Has anyone experienced this???
Post 168587 dated 07/11/03 on the Special Needs Zone forum of Click and Clack's www.cartalk.cars.com website, states:
"This week on our lousy show, we got a call from Dave in Bellingham, Washington. (You can hear the call in the Our Lousy Show section of the site.) Dave has knee problems-- and his new Toyota Highlander wasn't exactly helping matters. He's finding it hard to push down on the pedals, which only serves to make his XXXXXX knee worse. We suggested hand controls... but we also thought that some of you guys might have a better idea. What do you think? Post your suggestions for Dave right here. And thanks. Tom and Ray Click and Clack the Tappet Brothers"
I don't recall reading anything relating to that on any of Edmund's Highlander boards -- my guess is Dave would experience the same problems with other SUVs, not just the Highlander!
Just wanted to kind of pole the group on an old problem that a number of us had which was a popping noise eminating from the sunroof after the car sat out on a hot day, then was quickly cooled down with A/C. There was a TSB that Toyota issued to correct this problem, which I had done (supposedly), but I still get the popping noise for a good 15 to 20 minutes after running the A/C on a hot day. For those of you who have had the TSB done, has it completely solved this condition for you? If so, maybe my dealer either didn't really do the TSB, or somehow the fixe didn't "take". Thanks for your inputs,
Does anyone have first hand experience mounting 235/70/16 Michelin Cross terrains without spacers? I want to make sure they fit prior to ordering due to restricted clearance with the rear struts
and they fit fine (slightly oversize) without any strut clearance problems or need for spacers. They are the new Geolander H-s G051 model....they are great compared to the Integrity tire....they especially are good in water...no more hydroplaning and loss of steering. Had them for 5K miles now and very satisfied...$105 or so per tire. Now have 25K on the HL in 8 months...really very satisfied...had it in to the dealer for the only time yesterday to adjust rear door latch (clamshell on latch was hard to sqeeze). Slight coolant leak (little bit of red coolant on plastic cover and from water pump hose), tightened hose clamp, and what sounded like window air leak in back seat and occasional howl was roof rack adjustment...they checked for dry axle seal and suspension for cause but roof rack was the culprit..gone now. Came that way from the factory..never used or changed it.
I have 5,000 miles on my 235/70/16 Cross Terrains - no problems yet. As a side note, I had tried the Kumho STX??? and the increase in handling performance was dramatic, but so was the noise, so discount tire let me return them for full credit on the Michelin's.
hello all.. As this is my first post in the highlander room I'd like to introduce myself/ my situation. I have never owned an SUV before, and currently own a 2003 Saturn L300 (as my screen name implies). I am happy with the Saturn , but desire an SUV and the Saturn VUE simply isn't what Im looking for.
I recently test drove the 4 cylinder highlander for its smooth ride/ I have heard so much about. I am going back on monday to drive the 6 to see the difference in power. The Highlander 4WD 4 cylinder I drove had the tow pkg, quick order pkg, floor mat pkg, rear spoiler, body color mud guards and a few other things with a MSRP of $ 28,040.00. I got the price down to $ 24,530.00.. The 6 cylinder version would be at least $ 2000.00 more from what I am told.
For the four cylinder 4WD owners out there... do you wish you got the six? Is the price I received good? Any info is appreciated. Thanks
When my wife and I brought our '03 HL home last month I found a little black bottle in the back side compartment. I guess it's some sort of wax or polish for the exterior of the vehicle named "Toyota Sealer." Has anyone ever used this stuff on their HL yet and is it worth even using? I mean, does it work any better than the normal car wax bought from the auto parts store?
I've located a rattle just below the radio and need to get in there to fix. Does anyone have experience removing and replacing the radio? How do I get access? I know I could take it to the dealer but that is an hour away, and I like to do this myself anyway. Thanks
Since it takes 8-12 weeks for custom HL orders and the '04 HL should be on lots in October, shouldn't: 1. production be starting or just about the start, and 2. shouldn't dealers (or at least regional distributors) have order sheets now?
Hi. I test drove both 4 and 6 cyl and bought the 4 cyl. Unless you are towing or for some reason specifically need or just want the extra power the 4 performs great. You get a little better on mileage and of course the total purchase cost of the vehicle is lower. From what I have heard and seen on the lots in CT the 4's are a littel harder to find. I have no regrets.
I have a V6 FWD and do appreciate the extra power, especially in the hills of western Va. and eastern Ky. Even with the air conditioning going on route 23 in KY,I only noticed a couple of downshifts from overdrive. All the way from eastern KY to Pontiac Mi, along rt 23 I noticed no downshifts at all. It is really a great car to drive on a long trip.
To remove the radio, first remove the facia that surrounds it. This is the gray trim, wood grain on the Limted's. It is held in place by small tabs located around its perimeter. It needs to put pulled out as straight as possible, ie. cannot pull off by pulling on only one end.
I used a good stiff putty knife, good butter knife might work, BE SURE TO COVER THE TOOL WITH TAPE to reduce chance of making scratches on the trim. A good place to start is the lower corners. Slide the knife into the gap between the black radio frame and the gray/wood grain facia, and pry slightly. When you can make a gap big enough to hold onto, put knife in another corner and make a small gap there, do this all around until you get it out enough to pull it straight off. After removing this facia, you'll see the frame that holds the radio and heating controls are held to the dash by three large screws on each side. I think you'll need a nut driver or small socket with extension to remove these. After removing these screws you'll be able to pull out this assembly with the radio. From what I recall, there's not much under the radio to rattle except the antenna cable or radio wiring. You might be able to put your hands on these without removing the radio. You might be able to put your hand in from behind the console just to the right of the gas paddle--not sure.
2001 Highlander Limited 4Wd as anyone replaced their original Dueler HT tires?Am looking to replace these tires with a good all season that will handle some snow in the winter months. The original size is 225/70/16. I notice some are replacing with 235/70/16. No problems with this? Thanks much!
I have a 2002 HL Limited and have a question. Surely someone out there has already accomplished this. I would like to modify the fog lights, so that instead of being "triggered" by the low beams, they could be on with the park lights as well. I really don't care about any other mod, such as them remaining on with the High Beams, I would just like the capability to have them on while just the park lights are on.
Anyone done this? Or could tell me how it could be done?
I opened the DRL circuit and inserted the coil of a SPST relay in series. Used the N.O. contacts of the relay to provide power to the fog lamps.
So now I use the fog lamps as DRLs. The DRL circuit "opens" when the headlamps are on high or low.
Obviously I can still turn the parking lamps and fog lamps on and off in the normal (factory) fashion.
In the RX300 the DRL's voltage dropping resistor is mounted under the battery support platform. I opened the DRL circuit at one end of this resister in order to wire in the relay coil.
While you're in there you might want to check the condition of the halogen high beam bulbs. At 12k miles mine had soot covered the entire interior of the glass capsule and the glass itself had begun to melt and bubble as a result of the heat buildup.
Someone said the halogen gas filament regeneration cycle doesn't "fire off" at the low DRL voltages and that results in the premature failure of the HB bulbs. And poor HB lighting as they begin to build up a soot coating prior to actual failure.
Many Highlander owners have reported installing Michelin CrossTerrains and seem to have a high satisfaction level. I joined the ranks of Cross Terrain (225) owners about 2 weeks ago and so far am very happy with the improvement over the Goodyear Integrity's that were removed. Most Costcos are stocking the tire now and the others will order for you or you can the check the online tire places, prices are very similar. I did notice the 225's have a 700 treadwear rating and the 235 has a 420 rating, something to consider.
With 35,000 miles on the '02 HL, bought the Cross Terrains two weeks ago replacing the OE Duelers and put about 1,800 miles on them this past week - mostly interstate driving - and didn't notice much difference in noise or ride, which is good. I live in Minnesota so I'm actually looking forward to seeing how they do in the snow. Also, I think Michelin has a $50 rebate on a set of 4 at this time. Comments on this board have been very helpful. Thanks!
Took delivery of a new HL AWD V6 last night and couldn't be happier. We compared the HL to most mid-sized SUV's and felt the Toyota offered the best overall package. After the first 50 miles we are confident we made the right choice. Thanks to everyone for all the comments on this board - it's a great resource for folks like us.
I bought a set of four for my RX300. My expectation is that ML makes the best tires, but also they charge the most! I notice some lower end H/L got the Good Year tire, and higher end ones get the Bridge Stone. BS is the OEM tire for RX300, which should be good enough for a H/L.
Comments
March 2001 Ltd V6 AWD, 23450 miles, Mobil 1 5W-30 since ~12000, Toyota filters.
I’ve never torqued a oil pan drain bolt in my life, but when I removed the HL's today, I thought “Boy, that’s loose.” I usually just tighten them with whatever ratchet or box-end wrench I’m using at the time. So I checked the Toyota shop manual, and it says 33 ft lbs! That’s a whole lot more that I usually do. I used my normal method, then got out the torque wrench and started tightening toward 33 ft lbs. I quit before I got there, couldn’t believe I wasn’t going to strip it. Anyone have experience or thoughts on this? I use a new washer each time.
One thing I always thought was cool about the V6 is the little diverter under the oil filter, which allows oil to drop straight down without dribbling down the engine or hitting the frame. That is, unless you unscrew the filter too quickly – then it will hit the frame, and in my case, miss the drain pan!
There’s the paradox of getting the engine and oil a little warm for complete draining, and getting the exhaust manifold flesh-searing hot at the same time. So there I am on a Washington DC day which is heading into the 90s, with a long sleeve shirt and mechanics gloves on, getting the oil filter off. Comfy.
You have to add oil quite slowly to this engine, otherwise oil gets up into the well formed by the plastic engine cover, which is not quite sealed to the top of the engine. Then oil will slowly make its way down to the front of the engine. Unsightly, at best. Fortunately, the engine cover comes off easily. There are three 5mm Allen-head nuts at the front, and the back fastener is tricky – the Toyota symbol unscrews! It just pushes back on, but it unscrews to get it off. The engine cover is purely aesthetic – no function, except maybe to keep what’s under it a little cleaner and dryer. You can leave it off if you want to. Watch those Allen head nuts – I expected them to be bolts, and they practically leapt out of their wells as I was taking the cover off.
Good for another 3K+.
Jonas
"Hmmmm... by wwest Jul 05, 2003 (9:15 pm)
Most car service dealers buy their oil in bulk, many from re-refineries. Doesn't that mean that eventually all of the re-refined oil will be highly contaminated with synthetic?"
I don't believe for one second that dealers sell re-refined oil as new. Care to list sources of this information?
Time to fishing for links, although a search in Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 may turn up something too.
Steve, Host
Can you honestly say one isn't just as "new" as the other?
Hoping for some input from HL FWD/4 owners.
I don't read much about off-pavement driving 'round here.
Wondering if I can 'get away with' a FWD/4 vs an AWD/6 Highlander.
I live on the edge of the Mojave Desert and will (sometimes) use the HL to access trailheads (death valley, eastern sierras etc) via (sometimes steep) rough rock road ('dirt roads' is too kind) also may run into the occasional snow storm.
The $8K difference between a FWD/4 and an AWD/6 HL has to make one wonder.
(fwiw, also considering Subaru Forester and Toyota Tundra).
tia/
-srp
The HL/RX300 AWD is all wheel drive from a marketing perspective only. On a 4WD dyno the RX checked out at 90/10 F/R torque distribution ratio, and only got up to 75/25 after many minutes of continuing front wheel slippage.
If the HL is available as FWD with the V6 and VSC/Trac that might be the optimal solution.
GregB
PS. Great points about the filling too fast and removing the cover. I too learned this the hard way.
Not that I'm advocating the AWD/6 over the FWD/4 or vice versa but note that the difference in price is about $3K, not $8K (see www.toyota.com/html/shop/vehicles/highlander/price/highlander_pri- - ce.html).
Not knowing how steep the rough roads are nor the amount of snow you'll encounter (I only pass through Mojave in the Summer), my gut feel is that you might be happier with the AWD/6 (which is what I have). You don't see much discussion here on off-roading as the Highlander is a car-based SUV (unlike the 4Runner which is a truck-based SUV), and thus most people buy it for light off-roading at best. Ideal would be to test drive the Highlander (or any other vehicles you're considering) on the very roads you're concerned about (rent the vehicle if test driving one from the dealership isn't feasible). (Back when I used to live in a hilly area I made a point of test driving vehicles being considered up steep hills during my initial evaluation phase in figuring out what brand and model I wanted.)
Also why I avoid all the quickie places - they don't take the time yo fully drain the old oil, or clean up after themselves. How else can they do it for $19?
When I do an oil change, I remove the plastic "skid pan" thats between the roll pan and the crossmember. It's just a few 10mm screws, and only adds an additional 5 or 10 minutes to the job. Makes it real easy to access the filter.
Yeah, that little chute under your oil filter is a nice little touch... just make sure you also put a rag on top of the crossmember - there's a hole right in the middle of it that will get oil in it guided by that little filter chute as you loosten the filter.
What a pain for a simple operation.
The fill and drain plugs are 10mm Allen heads (what's the generic term - recessed hex?) and all I have are sockets of that size. So I had to use various extensions to find room to access the fill plug, then it wouldn't budge with the little 3/8 ratchet I first used. FYI, always loosen/remove the fill plug first, otherwise two things might occur - the fluid will glug, glug, glug out of the drain and splash all over the place, especially nice with hot, smelly gear oil, or you find you can't remove the fill plug after you've already drained the fluid! Not a good thing. Anyway, an 18" breaker bar broke the fill plug loose. Drain plug, too.
Wait, wait, where's my pump? Couldn't find it in the garage, tried the basement (why would it be there?). Break for dinner, got dark, drag out the dropcord. Find the pump hiding in the first place I looked for it. Grumble.
Removed the drain plug, which has a magnet on it. A whole lot of gunk on the magnet. I didn't analyze it, nor get out another magnet to check the content of the gunk, but I assume it's magnetic particles from the gears. I was surprised, and it makes me think I'll change new car gear lubes earlier in the future. I always change the engine oil within the first 500 miles just for cheap insurance, but I haven't done other lubricants very early.
So, I expected to change the transfer case tonight also, but that'll wait. Redline doesn't make a synthetic automatic transmission fluid which meets Toyota specs, otherwise I'd do that, too.
On the underside of the spoiler, exactly in the center of the spoiler there is a hole. The hole does not look perfectly round.
When I asked the service manager about the hole, he told me it was for the harmonic effect. If there was no hole than you would hear a hum.
1) Is there supposed to be a hole located on the rear spoiler at that location?
2) Is the harmonic effect a bunch of b.s.?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
If such a hole needed to be there for some reason, Toyota certainly would have made it look like it was supposed to be there... either a perfectly round molded opening, or with a gasket around the edges or something.
I'd be back there the next day to talk with the general manager, demand a new one, and not go back to that service department again.
1) This is a Toyota manufactured rear spoiler and not a aftermarket item.
2) Have contacted Toyota via phone and email, and still no answer from them. Has been 3 days now.
3) I knew the service manager was slinging b.s., but wanted to confirm especially from Toyota's end.
4) This has definitely not been a good experience either from the local dealership or corporate Toyota. When I purchased the vehicle originally, they had to order in the spoiler and some touch up paint because of a couple of chips on the hood. Well when the spoiler came in, of course the touch up paint did not come in for over a week later. Instead of one trip to the dealership, had to make 2.
5) Thought that buying a highly rated vehicle, in this case a Toyota Highlander, would stop some of the b.s. I have experienced from American brand models.
Rob
Just caught the service manager in another lie concerning the rear spoiler. When I was at the dealership, I asked if there were anymore Highlander's on the lot with a rear spoiler. He pointed out that there was only one. A green one that did not have a spoiler. Stupid me did not drive through the new car lot and confirm for myself. Well, I decided to check their website just now. What do you know. They have 10 Highlander's on the lot. 3 of them Limited's with rear spoilers. I will be going to the dealership after work and check out the rear spoilers on them. Thanks for letting me rant.
Rob
I think I would like a black limited with all option when it comes out. I once ride in a 4 cly with another guy, we didn't even notice it is a 4 after the day of driving. and my wife own a RX300, honestly we both can't tell the different between the two engines. Great car.
Has anyone experienced this???
"This week on our lousy show, we got a call from Dave in Bellingham, Washington. (You can hear the call in the Our Lousy Show section of the site.) Dave has knee problems-- and his new Toyota Highlander wasn't exactly helping matters. He's finding it hard to push down on the pedals, which only serves to make his XXXXXX knee worse. We suggested hand controls... but we also thought that some of you guys might have a better idea. What do you think? Post your suggestions for Dave right here.
And thanks.
Tom and Ray
Click and Clack the Tappet Brothers"
I don't recall reading anything relating to that on any of Edmund's Highlander boards -- my guess is Dave would experience the same problems with other SUVs, not just the Highlander!
I have a dealer who's trying to tell me they have some/one but I don't believe him.
GregB
Mike
Now have 25K on the HL in 8 months...really very satisfied...had it in to the dealer for the only time yesterday to adjust rear door latch (clamshell on latch was hard to sqeeze). Slight coolant leak (little bit of red coolant on plastic cover and from water pump hose), tightened hose clamp, and what sounded like window air leak in back seat and occasional howl was roof rack adjustment...they checked for dry axle seal and suspension for cause but roof rack was the culprit..gone now. Came that way from the factory..never used or changed it.
I recently test drove the 4 cylinder highlander for its smooth ride/ I have heard so much about. I am going back on monday to drive the 6 to see the difference in power. The Highlander 4WD 4 cylinder I drove had the tow pkg, quick order pkg, floor mat pkg, rear spoiler, body color mud guards and a few other things with a MSRP of $ 28,040.00. I got the price down to $ 24,530.00.. The 6 cylinder version would be at least $ 2000.00 more from what I am told.
For the four cylinder 4WD owners out there... do you wish you got the six? Is the price I received good? Any info is appreciated. Thanks
Steve
Thanks
1. production be starting or just about the start, and
2. shouldn't dealers (or at least regional distributors) have order sheets now?
I used a good stiff putty knife, good butter knife might work, BE SURE TO COVER THE TOOL WITH TAPE to reduce chance of making scratches on the trim. A good place to start is the lower corners. Slide the knife into the gap between the black radio frame and the gray/wood grain facia, and pry slightly. When you can make a gap big enough to hold onto, put knife in another corner and make a small gap there, do this all around until you get it out enough to pull it straight off.
After removing this facia, you'll see the frame that holds the radio and heating controls are held to the dash by three large screws on each side. I think you'll need a nut driver or small socket with extension to remove these. After removing these screws you'll be able to pull out this assembly with the radio.
From what I recall, there's not much under the radio to rattle except the antenna cable or radio wiring. You might be able to put your hands on these without removing the radio. You might be able to put your hand in from behind the console just to the right of the gas paddle--not sure.
Anyone done this? Or could tell me how it could be done?
Thanks in advance!!
So now I use the fog lamps as DRLs. The DRL circuit "opens" when the headlamps are on high or low.
Obviously I can still turn the parking lamps and fog lamps on and off in the normal (factory) fashion.
In the RX300 the DRL's voltage dropping resistor is mounted under the battery support platform. I opened the DRL circuit at one end of this resister in order to wire in the relay coil.
While you're in there you might want to check the condition of the halogen high beam bulbs. At 12k miles mine had soot covered the entire interior of the glass capsule and the glass itself had begun to melt and bubble as a result of the heat buildup.
Someone said the halogen gas filament regeneration cycle doesn't "fire off" at the low DRL voltages and that results in the premature failure of the HB bulbs. And poor HB lighting as they begin to build up a soot coating prior to actual failure.
Thanks to everyone for all the comments on this board - it's a great resource for folks like us.