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Comments
They also last forever. I have 24k miles on them already and they look almost new, I seriously think they'll last long enough that I'll have to replace them due to age, not wear.
-juice
-mike
These are the gloves worn by major league ball players to increase their batting grip. Made of a special light-weight Cabretta leather, they are very stylish and won’t shrink. (The ones I got are a medium grey leather with black fabric inserts and expansion X’s on the knuckles).
When you try on a pair that fit (the large size felt just right on my medium size hands), your first thought is that your hands have died and gone to heaven-- they really feel terrific wrapped around that Momo wheel and shifter— and the improved grip definitely enhances the Rex driving experience another notch or so.
I need gloves for my Miata for top-down driving when it's cold. I'll look for those, thanks.
-juice
I normally keep the volume between 5-7. Some days, this doesn't seem very loud at all, whether I'm listening to radio or CD, and I need to increase it to 8 or 10 to hear things clearly. Other days even going to 6 makes pedestrians stare at me while I'm driving down the road.
Second, from time to time the volume will start changing of its own accord, either up or down. If I touch the knob the volume will either "snap back" to its original setting or else stop changing.
Last, the reception is still terrible. I've mentioned this before but haven't counted it serious enough to warrant a service visit. Together with the first two issues that have come up, it is serious enough.
I have an appt for the dealer to look at it, so I'm checking to see if there's a history of these things.
DjB
-juice
-mike
The car is great! Love the '04 interior and gauges.
My only complaint was with the dealership. I ordered the car with the upgraded security system and they forgot to add this along with my options. The difference with an aftermarket system was 50 dollars that they would not refund. I couldn't walk away from the car so I settled. I didn't feel I should be responsible for the difference.
Jake
Craig
What aftermarket alarm system did they put in? The brand should be on the FOBs.
-Dave
I was interested in picking up a Forrester turbo but will not be returning to this particular dealership.
I have a lot of respect for you guys / ladies who can hack it out the entire 1000 mile break in period. I've gotten on it a few times just to see what she's got but plan on taking it easy the rest of the way out. I was surprised that they said no cruise control for the first 1000 also. Anyone know why?
Jake
I had fun with my WRX during the first 1000 miles, even while sticking to the sub-4000rpm rule most of the time. I would say it's OK (perhaps beneficial) to get on it once and a while, as long as you're not redlining or driving around with the tach bouncing off the rev limiter all the time. In my humble opinion, 4000rpm is somewhat arbitrary (Subaru uses the same number for all their different engines) and going to 4800rpm or 5200rpm is not going to destroy the engine. Just be gentle, don't beat on a cold engine, and don't drive at a constant rpm for too long and you'll be fine. Have fun! I did!
Craig
Breakin is when the engine parts self machine themselves by actually rubbing. This can generate excess heat, which can "burn" small parts of the rubbing or touching areas. Bad news. So, to avoid that, you operate the vehicle at much less than full output. If you operate at a constant load or RPM the engine wears for that load or RPM, and not for others. It's rare that this will cause problems, but it can - e.g. ridges can be worn into cylinder liners. BTW, this necessary friction or rubbing between parts is mostly prevented by synthetic oils, which is why most manufacturers don't recommend putting it in until after the breakin period.
All this is quickly becoming moot, however, as the newer production machinery is "micro-machining" most of the parts, so final "breakin" is no longer needed. It's still a good practise, so it's still recommended.
Kinda coincidental that the OEM remote would just so happen to work with the aftermarket.
I can't help being weary but ask for the receipt from the contractor used by the Dealer and all paper work that comes with the Audiovox system. i.e. warranty, registration, etc...
-Dave
Jake
Craig
Turned on the air... temp control cold, and fan speed low. After about 20 min. The air conditioner "froze" again.
Air would not come out the vents at all, even when the fan speed was turned all the way up.
Remedy.... Turn off the air, turn up the temp control to midway, allow it to thaw out, then run the fan speed on at least med when turning the air back on and turning down the temp control.
If I had not already experienced this, (on at least two other occasions) I would have thought there was a serious problem.
The wife has a tendency to try to control the ambient temp in the car by using the fan speed. (If she gets cold, she turns down the fan speed so it don't blow so much.)
This does not work when the humidity is high and the air conditioner is set on a cold temp setting. The temp should be controled by the temp control, and keep the fan running at higher speeds with the air on.
The air conditioning worked great the rest of the trip.
So, if any of you ever experience a "problem" with your air conditioning, it's probably just operator error.
Have a great day, and hope this will help if you ever have this experience.
Ken
Are you saying that the fan is seizing up? That definitely shouldn't happen.
Craig
-mike
Craig
When it defrosted the water poured all over the floor, since the whole unit actually mounted below the dash.
But with the circ switch set to outside air, I figure the high humidity (80+ %) had a lot to do with it. If I have my system set at the coolest setting, it really gets cold. It just stopped blowing any air at all. No setting would work, not even the defrost settings.
I know it sounds weird, but that's exactly what happened. Once it had defrosted, and the fan on high, I figure the air moved across the coil fast enough that the frost could no longer build up.
I don't believe this is normal, but rather a situation where all the conditions were right for it to happen. I'll have to see if I can make it do it the next time we're out for an extended drive. I said in the previous post that it was about 20 min, that was just a quick estimate, it could have been a little longer than that, I don't remember at which point we turned on the air.
Ken
There's a TSB on this. Apparently it has to do with the type and the position of the thermosensor. Check out the PDF:
http://152.122.48.12/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/TSBs/2003/SB-100- 01350-2224.pdf
-jim
(Side note, when I traded it in to a Ford dealer for our first minivan - he saw the little post it note I had put on the dash to remind the wife to do this , so he said the a/c wasn't functioning and took several hundred bucks off the trade in value and was being a general jerk about it. He checked the engine out by just looking quickly under the hood and missed the cafe au lait in the radiator cap since he never took it off. Since he was being a total jerk, I didn't give any details, just answered his questions straight! That will have cost him a whole lot more to fix than the a/c!)
Anyway, thanks a lot for the information, at least now I know I was correct in my thinking.
It's amazing what a person can find out, if they just ask the right people.
Have a great one!
Ken
-Dennis
Also heard that too much refrigirant can cause ice-up.
-mike
The information is greatly appreciated though, and I would like to thank Jim for sharing it with me.
Thanks again,
Ken
Better to keep everything intact than to invite the gremlins in for a romp.
-jim
Anyone else see prices like this? TC
Sounds like that's what the Post ad is offering. It was a pretty easy deal to get -- I think the sluggish economy is working in our favor. At any rate, you should be able to get a similar deal just about anywhere (as long as the dealer isn't too slimey!)
It's a good idea to spec out the car with the options you want here on Edmunds and then expect to pay the invoice price they list (not TMV) for the car. I even created a printout for the dealer that listed the car and options and the price I wanted to pay for each item (the Edmunds listed invoice price). They said okay. It was easy.
Good luck!
-jim
Take care.TC
Finally, are 225x40X18s that much poorer riding than 225x45x17s? Just curious. I do a great deal of highway driving.
Also, since the offset is how far the holes in the rim are from the center of the rim, if a lesser offset fits, wouldn't this be fine? I guess what I am asking, besides rubbing, what do I risk with a lesser offset?
Thank you for the advice though. Your replies are appreciated. :-)
Cobb update...I have either gotten used to the harsher noises or they have quieted down. The car is smoother and my last tank of gas was 24.77 mpg which is right in line with what I have been getting prior to the reflash. Considering that I have been driving the car harder leads me to believe some reports of 1 mpg improvement with the reflash.
What caught my eye was a couple of Forresters. On closer inspection, I saw 4 factory new STi's! I dove into the parking lot and sat there drooling. These were the first I've seen in Indy. There were two blue, one each silver and black.
There was no one around the truck. It would have been soooooo easy...TC
-jim
Also reading where unless you get very light 17" rims (ex. some SSRs) you loose performance (maybe gain a little in handling though) with the wheels.
This would be substantiated from magazines getting a 0-60 around 5.8 with 16" wheels, while getting 0-60 of 6.3 with the BBS 17" wheels that weigh the same.
In other words, the only reason to go to a 17" or 18" is for looks.
Again, thank you for the link. Was very helpful.
As for an actual .5 second difference due to wheels...I don't think that much of a difference can be attributed to the change in wheels alone whether going to the 215's or 225's. Just my opinion.
Before I got my 17" Rota's on ebay, I researched the wheels and came to the conclusion that a light 16 x 7.5 wheel with 225/50 tires might be a good tradeoff of performance and ride. The cost of ssr's and good tires was too high for me but if I had the money that is what I would try.
I have seen Rota 17's (16 to 17 lbs) with a 48mm offset being sold for around 550 a set (subarustore.com)...will improve more than looks.
Just make sure to get wheels that have 48mm or more offset.
Looks are important to me but I am primarily seeking performance gains and I didn't want you to end your upgrades with the conclusion that 17 and 18 inch wheels are for looks only.
Don
"Looks are important to me but I am primarily seeking performance gains and I didn't want you to end your upgrades with the conclusion that 17 and 18 inch wheels are for looks only."
- exactly what I am looking for, though looks might be close to the same level as performance.
BTW, what rims did you end up getting?