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Comments
You will probably need to download an application called WinAmp. Do a Google search for WinAmp. There is a FREE version available for downloading!
The MP3 files you've been downloading from ITunes may have IDv2 header information that interferes with MP3 file attributes that the in-car MP3 player should be able to read.
Hope that helps! Sorry for the long delay in responding! I obviously don't visit as often as I should.
Now problem has been fixed.
The culprit was my Power Steering Pump. I was not able to make my own dealer agree to the existence of the noise (most dealers are just "deaf" and/or "dumb" when it comes to warranty work...), so I found an exceptionally good Hyundai dealership (Liberty Auto City in Libertyville, IL) who was able to identify the noise very quickly, and after some testing found it to be the Power Steering Pump. Once it was replaced -- THE CAR IS NOW FREE OF ANY WHINING, OR WHEEZING...
I'm happy now.
Once again I am in everyone's debt.
Thanks for the responses.
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What year car?? 2000 Sonata.
I'll take a guess and say that the linkage from the lock/latch is loose (or possibly needs to be greased).
Haven't address that yet!
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Did you have this problem with the keyless entry remote also?
Don't have keyless entry remote.
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If you have power doorlocks, could also be related to it's actuator.
Believe I have power door locks. How would I know???
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Assumming u have a NF Sonata, you could always leave half of the split rear seat unlatched (upright position, but not latched into place). That way, if you must, you can crawl in through the trunk and push the seat down to gain entry into the cabin.
What's a NF Sonata???
I have taken that VERY WISE advice and now ride around with one rear seat unlatched. Thanks also for telling me HOW to do that! So, I am ready to crawl if needed. But, so far I have not re-experienced the unlockable doors.
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Again, BIG THANKS for the reply and information.
Yes, I am dealer gun-shy. And, I don't like spending money needlessly.
Yes it is a 2000 sinata v6.
Current mileage is 93500. I am under 1000000 miles but i believe that's just for the power train, right?
Yes, my vehicle has the fold down seats...and, if needed I will crawl but as I said on the previous post, i haven't had any problems since the original post.
As to the wobble...no longer a problem...new tires were NEEDED!
I am truly amazed at the time and energy expended by the groups's members. I can't thank you all enough.
The past few weeks were very hectic and i didn't want to go without responding and thanking every one.
Later...until the next problem...
Joe
I addressed it with the dealer a couple months ago and it was harder for them to tell because it was a very cold day. The air actually was cool and only a bit warmer than the outside air temp, as I feel is acceptable. They only hooked up something to read the air temp (dont know if it was inside the cabin or under the hood) and they said that it read an acceptable temp. They didn't do anything further to investigate.
Has anyone had this problem before? Thanks.
Hey Joe, it sounds like you're as mechanically gifted as I am.
But, when something goes "wrong" you need to ask a car repair guy what needs to be done...don't rely on a forum such as this. You seem to have put yourself through much unneeded agony. i.e. your shimmy problems due to tires. You shouldn't criticize a car until you know what is causing a problem. (I don't like to spend the $ either, but if something is "wrong" it needs to be taken care of.)
Good luck and hope you get many more satisfactory miles from your car.
Do a cool day test (if you can still catch a cool day... Otherwise do it on a cool night) try driving on the highway for 10 minutes, let the outside air circulate thru the system, put your fan at high speed -- and you'll notice cool air coming in, almost, or maybe even as cool as the outside air.
But you'll never get it as cool as opening the window and sticking your hand out, while in motion. It's not a Sonata thing, I had the same in my older Accord too.
I am ready to change the oil at 3000 miles by myself. I bought 5W20 Mobil1 fully synthetic oil and an oil filter (not an Hyndai) from Wal-Mart.
I read that it is better to buy an oil filter from the dealer. I don't think it makes sense to drive over 120 miles round trip to buy one from the dealer. Is the Supertech oil filter from WalMart is not good enough to do the job? I have been using this brand for the cars without any problem.
Also, is it too early to start using fully synthetic oil?
I read that Hyndai engines rings are too tight and it takes over 15,000 miles to fully break the engine.
http://jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/aftermarket%20oil%20filters.pdf
Currently its at 2100 miles. Bought this baby back in January and hadnt been using it except for >20 mi trips. However recently I have been driving it more often to work (<10 mi each way).
Have a Sonata Limited (V6) here - would it be OK to just send this car to, say, Wal-Mart for an oil change? The dealership is far away from me. I suppose oil change is standard (new or old, 4-cyl or V6).
If only I m more handy, I'd do it myself.
My experience? I have used the same quickie oil change shop for 20 years, and nothing was ever botched. Not only that, but there is not a single story around town about an oil change being botched by that shop.
My Hyundai dealer? I got 3 oil changes from them. Oil change #1, they used 20W50 instead of the recommended 5W20 or 10W30. Change #2, they left the oil 4.75 quarts low. Change #3, they left the oil 1.5 quarts low, after promising me they had corrected the previous problem.
So,,, from now on, I'll be taking my 06 Sonata to my old reliable quickie oil change shop, which I should never have left in the first place.
Early Fram filters had a problem. Later versions appear to be very close copies of the OEM filter. Pure also makes a high quality filter cartridge for the Lambda engine.
FYI, since Hyundai does not make oil filters, their supplier and thus their "factory" filter may change from time to time.
Hi, this is brain-sucking Joe, again, visting the people who selflessly answer my questions.
Hope someone can tell me if this is something the dealer should do or a Tires Plus shop can handle properly.
I have been quite satisfied with some work that they have done for me over the past 3 months.
I have placed a call to Tires Plus and they said stop in and they will provide me with an cost estimate.
Should I do just the door that's hanging off?
Any idea what the dealer would charge?
I don't have to do this today.
TIA,
Joe
ever hear of all thumbs? and being mechanically incompetent?
scored a wopping 43 on enlistment test into the navy for the mechanical part...non-recognition of tools and usage!
i called tires plus and they said to bring it in and they would get the parts and give me an estimate.
leaning in this direction.
the rubber molding goes from the top front of door to back and then down the door panel...where it meets post separating front and rear doors.
trust me i wouldn't have a clue...and i was wondering if this might have contributed to my previous post about door lock problem.
anyway, i was just wondering if anyone else had experienced this problem...or had an idea of what dealer costs might be.
again, many thanks for responses.
Joe
yes...weather stripping. why didn't i think of that and not rubber molding. oh, well, i get to learn everyday.
however...it looks like it FITS over a narrow edge of DOOR. it is just hanging on in a small area. double-sided tape sounds unworkable. you almost look at it like it has to be FITTED around (?) over (?) this narrow edge. but, you just can't fit it over the narrow rim and make it stay!
i will look into what you suggest...an automotive parts store.
much thanks.
Joe
Stuff the weather stripping back into the channel. If it keeps popping out, you may need to get some weather stripping glue or contact cement.
joe
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/StoreCatalogDisplay/c-10101/s-10101/TID-80731- 19
You probably should just take to someone and have them look at it. Estimates are free and it may only take them 10 minutes where you might need 5 days to do it. :P
Wow JC whitney. I remember as a kid I would look thru their catalog and dream of stuff I could buy for my car. As a matter of fact I did buy a windshield wiper delay control from them once. I was impressed that I installed it AND IT WORKED!
TIA,
Joe
It's not going to cost much so have someone else do it. Let us know how you come out.
Craig
later,
joe
When I pour water on the passenger side A pillar or wash the car, the creak disappears.
Any Ideas Why???
The dealer had a glass company changed the front windshield as it broke while they were trying to reseal the glass, but the creak was still there.
They then tried to reseal the moulding running along the roof down the passenger side a pillar as there was a gap.
Next week, the dealer will have the glass company take off the moulding & let me drive to see if the noise is gone. They have also ordered a new moulding for the passenger side.
1) Car pulls to the right- fairly drastically. I put new tires on a few months ago, but I rarely drive this vehicle so I'm not sure if that problem existed before or after the new tires. A local shop (chain) did a front end allignment, but absolutely nothing has changed.
2) Put all new brakes in- front and rear and now they squeek. That was 5,00 miles ago and they still squeek.
3) Rear tail light/brake light works off and on. When it is on, it's real bright-as if the brake light is on all the time. Replaced the bulb, same thing. Doesn't seem like the fuse would be the problem, is it wiring?
4) When you start the car cold, there is a loud screech that lasts for a few seconds every time. Mechanic said the serpentine belt has proper tension ,so nothingelse they can do. Seems to me there must be SOMETHING that can be done. I'm ignorant enough that I'm not even sure if there's more than one belt to take a look at.
Any help on any of the above would be greatly appreciated!
1-A wheel alignment should have corrected this problem for most scenarios and if it didn't the shop should have check it out the front end and notify you if there is a forseen problem. I would bring it back to them and complain that the car is pulling still. At least this way they'll check out the car and hopefully find what's wrong if it's not the alignment.
2-How are you rotors/discs?? Are they smooth or do they need to be cut? If there are any gourges in it, it should be addressed (front, back & inside) Also did you use OEM brake pads, or a no frills pad (semi metallic or other based material? Semi-metallic are longer lasting, but I think have a tendenous to squeal)
3- Is the brake light on all the time??? If it is, probably break light switch is stuck and might need to be replaced. If that's not the case, there's apparently a short in the wiring somewhere, possibly even the bulb. Try swapping bulbs with other side.
4- Screeching sound is from the belts. Check the condition of them. Do they show signs of cracking?? Check your owners manual as the the recommended interval for replacement. There's a spray called belt dressing that they use to make in the pass for this condition. I don't know if it'll work for you or if it's still advisable for modern cars.
PS, if your car has a serpentine belt, that usually means you have 1 belt.
Hope I was able to help a little, good luck!!
If the car is pulling real hard, you can usually see the misalignment with the naked eye. (can we say "naked" here?) Park on a smooth level surface with your wheels turned straight ahead. Both tires should sit equally straight up or angled slightly inward, closer together at the ground. Both tires should be toed in equally, slightly closer together at the front of the tires.
For N0. 2, I will add to pekelopd's excellent advice that mildly scored rotors are harmless. If the rotors are dark and shiny, they may be glazed, and that could possibly contribute to the squealing.
It's usually the anti-chatter springs or the composition of the brake pads that cause squealing brakes.
If the delta is low, charge it. Charging is a no-brainer. Charge the cap marked "L", or Low pressure side. IIRC, the L cap is green, the H cap is red. Charge it while the engine is idling. If it now cools like new, you found the problem. I fnot, it could be more serious.
If it leaks down quickly, ask your dealer to repair the leak. I think the leak repair is covered under the bumper-to-bumper, but not the Freon.
Mark
Mike
I don't want to do this by brute force. That just isn't a good idea. Anyone have an idea of how to remove the lid properly?
Thanks.
It occurs only when driving over bumpy roads and/or uneven pavement. Fortunately or unfortunately, the 2 mile stretch to my apartment is one such road and driving in that 2 mile stretch, I can hear the noise almost regularly. There is no such noise when driving on smooth roads and sometimes even when the car hits an odd bump on an otherwise smooth pavement the noise doesn't come through . It is clearly audible only when the right side of the car encounters two or more continous bumps. I lowered the right side front passenger window while driving today and I could clearly hear rattling noises when driving over bumps, again coming through the right side front door.
I also hear random noises from the dashboard. It's almost like a cracking noise.
And one additional issue: The front passenger seat vibrates very visibly!!
Has anyone had these problems with their 2007 Sonatas?
Same here.07 limited.
Lemon law should definitely be able to help you, even though it can be a process.