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http://152.122.48.13/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/TSBs/2003/SB-100- 01590-2488.pdf
This cured the problem but afterward, I had excessive pedal travel with weaker braking. I took it back again. They said air was in the lines so they bled the brakes.
Braking and pedal travel are normal now, but I still think braking was a little better the first couple of weeks. Maybe pads are a little dirty.
One thing that still annoys me a bit is a faint "popping" feel in the pedal that occurs intermittently during braking (usually at slow speeds). Someone in another forum also has this gremlin and described it as a "snapping" feel. Don't know what it is and whether it's inherent in the design or not. I'll have dealer check it out next time.
I'm like you, I don't want my vehicle torn apart by some mechanic, but at the same time I don't want that rattle, because it bugs me. I plan on contacting the Toyota rep before I take mine to a dealer, because I want it done right.
Meanwhile I've actually started driving my old reliable 92 Honda more so that I don't have to listen to the rattle, sad isn't it
400 miles to go and I'll treat it like a used car and drive it like I mean it.
I now have a creaking sound coming from the right side rear passenger area. Can't figure that one out.
If it helps, no one has even ridden in the back seat yet (i.e. no kid toys, etc...). Thanks in advance.
It is loose on one side and an easy fix for the dealer. A couple people mentioned this and fix.
Or if you want to avoid the dealer, they have wrapped a strip of electrical tape around the metal U-hook and the noise disappeared.
1) Change the oil
2) Fix rattle in sunroof
3) Fix brake pedal vibration (ref: Oscar)
Pop quiz: Which one was completed in 5 hours? Just (1)
I offer to provide the TSB# for the sunroof, but the assistant service manager vehemently refuses. Well, 1:00 PM rolls around and they can't find the correct TSB on their own. After I provide them with the correct #, they tell it will be an all-day job and I have to come back.
As for the brake pedal vibration; the mechanic personally explains to me that the brake system on this particular vehicle has a hydraulic system that automatically re-pressurizes the brake lines every few pumps. That vibration I feel is the system pressurizing itself. Sounds plausible to me so I leave it at that.
Oscar, you wrote about a similar problem that required the master cylinder to be changed. Let me confirm the condition: The vibration is a soft buzz that lasts for a few seconds, regardless if you're braking hard or soft, and even occurs when you are stopped. It occurs almost every other braking and is completely independent of road conditions. Is this correct? I refuse to believe this is normal.
At any rate, they replaced the master cylinder assembly and there is no more buzz at all, not even during startup.
However, there is a faint (intermittent) "pop" or "snap" that I can feel in the brake pedal every few times I brake. Don't know if this is what your mechanic was referring to but it annoys me. I'm taking the car in tomorrow for this and vibration in the steering wheel at freeway speeds.
It used to have a shimmy but they rebalanced wheels and that took care of the shimmy but there's still a vibration.
I feel your pain.
(Sorry pat84 - didn't see your post.)
called the service dealer who said its the first he has heard of this and since their were no alarms or lights it was probably a gear slipping. He also said that to fix it he would have to replicate the problem. I have had difficulty in replicating the problem myself....ideas?
Dean
I've accidentally done this a time or two myself, and it's an odd feeling if you're not expecting it. Frankly, I don't remember the details of the feature, but it's covered in the manual. I'm sure it's useful in some situations, but I havent' actually needed it yet.
just received a stone chip on the windshield and the auto glass company will replace it tomorrow, just in case they are not familiar in removing the trim and the wiring connection from the electrochromic/compass rear view mirror. The rear view mirror looks like it is part of the windshield, just need info on the trim around the rear view mirror and the wiring connections.
Thanks!
There is plenty of clearance in the wheel wells, so that should not be the problem if there is one. I have seen lots of third gens with oversize tires on them without lift.
Don't forget, if you put on the 17s, you will be reducing the torque you can put to the ground. You might be a candidate for consideration of installing the S/C.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I'm taking the corners at resonable speed, but it just seems to lean a lot. Maybe I was expecting too much after reading about the X-Reas System in the 2003 Toyota brochure.
Guess there's another trip to the dealer in store.
Replacing glass is often done improperly which can lead to leaks, windnoise, less impact protection (windshield is a part of the structure). It is also often not glued in properly. If the edges of the glass are touched, it's not going to be glued properly.
You need Toyota glass, not aftermarket glass. Cheap glass can have distortion, inferior quality, fit and longevity. Also, regluing the mirror almost always leads to it falling off in the future.
Toyota 4 runner glass also is water repellent and UV protected. Aftermarket glass is not.
Dean
I am aware the 4 speed is with V6 and 5 speed is with V8.
I called the service dealer who said its the first he has heard of this and since there were no alarms or lights it was probably a gear slipping. He also said that to fix it he would have to replicate the problem. I have had difficulty in replicating the problem myself....ideas?
Dean
I mention A/C bcuz this a.m. the auto-program decided (for the 1st time) that the floor was where the A/C was going, then it blew hot air. After pushing the mid-level button more than a few times I finally got my Auto-A/C back where it belonged. I hate electrical issues.
Thanks for any input.
i hope my chip wont spread....but Did you use original Toyota Windshield and how much it cost you?. Do you feel any difference b/w factory fitted and what you have now.?. i hope they did'nt mess with your dash board from inside..
asif
As for the windshield issue mentioned by other posters, mine got chipped the 2nd day I owned it when something flew out of an uncovered garbage truck container. Its maybe an 1/8 of an inch diameter circle, & I'm contemplating as to whether or not I should have it repaired since its so small & not star shaped.
I've had 3 done in the last 2 or 3 years with good results, and all free (no premium increases either).
Steve, Host
If you live in an area that gets cold during the winter, the transition of tempatures between below freezing level and above freezing level will cause a chiped window to crack... very quickly. (especially if there is any moisture on the window).
I tried this once and after 5 seconds the 4Runner rolled backward and then it sounded like the transmission gears were getting stripped out. Is that was Hill Assist is supposed to do? All my previous vehicles when in Drive without foot on the brake would stay in place on gentle slope while my 2003 4Runner rolls backwards after 5 seconds and sounds like it's stripping the gears in the transmission.
I still have a vibration though and it's present at just about any speed. Of course last visit to dealer was a "could not duplicate" scenario so now I'm stuck with an annoyance with no apparent fix.
The dealer does have the GSP9700 Force Balancer but that's about all I know. I'm gonna see if I can get them to move the wheels around and balance again but I have to see the Toyota Rep first. It might be another cause altogether but if I can't get them to acknowledge an abnormality, I'm stuck.
Wheels are the 17" alloys with Michelin Cross Terrains. Had 35psi in them and tried 32 with no difference. Also, I've slipped the gear into neutral when driving and the vibration doesn't change.
I just can't figure it out but I'm thinking either they didn't do it perfectly the 1st time (based on what I've read, perfection is a requirement in this area for 4runners), or I've got a tire defect somewhere.
Anyone have a suggestion? Thanks