Toyota Sequoia Rear Hatch Door Problems

peterson70peterson70 Member Posts: 5
edited March 2017 in Toyota
I am having a problem with the rear hatch on my Sequoia. Opening it is becoming harder and I must push in on the door as I try to activate the latch. Am I bending the cable holder on the inside of the door??? Anyone else experiencing this or have a remedy?


  • 03sequoia03sequoia Member Posts: 2
    I have a 03 Sequoia having the same problem. I can hear it locking
    & unlocking but most of the time it will not open. Dont know how to fix it either.
  • ichiro51ichiro51 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 limited with a similar problem. It started with the back window not working. The power lock failed to open. Toyota found that problem as an electrical short in the rear area. It cost me $250.00 to fix. The short was also the reason for the window not working. Toyota told me I had a bad motor and wanted to charge me $700.00 to replace.
  • 03sequoia03sequoia Member Posts: 2
    do you think u could have fixed it yourself are not.
  • ichiro51ichiro51 Member Posts: 4
    Not an electrical short! There is much trouble shooting that would be needed.

    You may have no choice but to bring it to a Toyota dealer.

    Be prepared to pay $$$ for them to look at it. Good luck!
  • corahollandcoraholland Member Posts: 1
    My Sequoia hatch handle broke with moderate use. I had it repaired at the dealership for $270.00. I asked to have some compensation and contacted corporate office to ask if there was a recall on this. At this point I have not been compensated, but I am going to pursue it. My complaint is on file. I think it is a manufacturers defect and if a number of other sequoia owners have the same problem, maybe we can be compensated and Toyota will design it better next go around.
    Corporate Toyota phone number is 800-331-4331
  • nick621nick621 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2004 limited with the same problems. The rear window stop working all together about a year ago. On 08/12/2008 I shut the rear door and the latch broke. I called the Toyota dealership and of course this part is not under warranty. I will definitely call Toyota's 1-800 # to make a complaint. I believe the latch is a defect, this vehicle is hardly used.
  • peterson70peterson70 Member Posts: 5
    Since the itital handle I broke on my hatch, I just had the latching mechanism on the bottom of the hatch door seize up and would not latch. I pulled apart the hatch door and removed the latching mechanism, It was all rusted and would not move. I drilled out the rivets and whick hold the latch together and from all the salt used up here in Michingan the internals of the latch rusted not allowing the latch to actuate. I have cleaned up all internal parts to the latch and reinstalled. Problem is when I shut the hatch the first time it will not open back up................ I guess what I'm thinking is that the rust problem in the latch was the itial problem when caused me to use more force on by handle to open the hatch, rusulting in a broken handle. Oh, any ideas on getting my hatch opern???
  • balwinderdbalwinderd Member Posts: 2
    I have 2002 sequoia and my lift door does not open now. I took off all the panels on the inside and I see the cable is fine but somehow the electronic lock is locked. I cannot get the electronic part to unlock so I can open the lift gate.

    How do you UNlock when your cable is fine but door does not UN lock when I press the remote botton? How do you remove the black piece inside the hatch door that locks the door to the main body?
  • balwinderdbalwinderd Member Posts: 2
    Peterson70, how do you remove the Latching Mechanism when the hatch door is closed and I cannot open it? I think my Lock Actuator is broken so I have to open the hatch door first and then replace the part inside the hatch door.

    I already took off all the panels inside the hatch door so I can access the cable and everything.
  • sjp4368sjp4368 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Sequoia with 125000 miles and ran into this problem several times while under warranty. It is definitely a defect. However, the last time I took it in to get fixed, the dealer tried to blame the window tracking system. It was all rusted out and corroded. Told me they could fix it for $700! I am now in the process of having the back latch replaced along with the entire window tracking system by my local mechanic...NOT THE TOYOTA DEALER!
  • lbrennemanlbrenneman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 with the rear hatch not opening. The window works. I don't see where the inside panel comes off. Any help? Thanks!
  • peterson70peterson70 Member Posts: 5
    What you'll need to do is put the rear window all the way down and pry the panel off from the top(bottom of window). Get your fingers underthe trim and pry back gently. If you take care you will only bend metal clips holding the trim in place. After doing this you will be able to remove entire panel, remove inner panel than actuate the latch mechanism by hand.
  • lbrennemanlbrenneman Member Posts: 2
    Thank you! I have a tail light out so I need to change the bulb and can't do that until I open the hatch. Thanks, again.
  • cazelcazel Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2007 sequoia and the rear hatch handle just broke. I will call Toyota to find out the recall status.
  • maspietamaspieta Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Toyota Sequoia, the rear window stopped working about a year ago, the back latch just stopped working this week and the door will not stay closed. I called Toyota requesting help as this seems like a safety issue; no recall. The Oxygen Sensor has also gone bad. I bought the Toyota based on reliability and reputation. Lol! Does anyone know where I can buy the latch and the Oxygen Sensor outside of the dealership? :sick:
  • deniseelderdeniseelder Member Posts: 2
    My rear door hatch just broke for the 3rd time (had it replaced in June 2009--lasted for 4 months). Found out by calling Toyota at 800-331-4331 that the cheap piece of inferior plastic (sold for around $70) was warranted for 12 months. At least I'll get the part for free this time. Please everyone call and file your complaints maybe we can get it recalled.
  • deniseelderdeniseelder Member Posts: 2
    :mad: When I went to pick up the replacement handle under warranty, my husband ran into the driver from Toyota who was delivering the handle to my mechanic. During a short conversation, the driver told my husband that he "delivered that particular part all the time". And this is not a large metro area. Tell me this isn't a recall issue--but why would they recall when they are making megabucks on the part replacement--the only way to open the back door. SPEAK LOUD. Toyota told me they had no intention of doing anything to help but recorded my complaint, assigned a Case No. to the problem and told me if there was a recall they would contact me.
  • mrbee25mrbee25 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 also and have the same problem not once but three times already, I have complanit to toyota and they would do nothing all the while the dealers are laughing al the way to the bank (the first time it was repair under warranty the next time about two years later it cost me 500.00 this time I'm going to try to fix it my self )
    but we need to get together and let toyota know this should be a safety issue and a recall should happen I talk to the FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION and unless they get a flood of complaints to push toyota hand nothing will be done. SO LETS GET TOGETHER AND LET TOYOTA KNOW WE ARE FEED UP
  • mrbee25mrbee25 Member Posts: 3
  • labrenlabren Member Posts: 1
    I too have replaced the door handle on 2001. They are approx. $70.00 at dealer. Remove rear inside panel and take cable off of handle. Then you must remove your license plate and remove rear outside panel to get handle off. The little clip breaks. I don't understand why this isn't made off medal instead of plastic.
  • jab217jab217 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 and I am replacing mine for a 2nd time tomorrow. Problem is my window doesn't work at the time so I have to tear into it with the door down and window up( not much room to move around). It's a pain but doing it yourself is far less painful than a $500 replacement bill. I got a replacement latch for under $25 on line and it appears to be as well made as the one I bought from the dealer last time. Also by tearing into it myself maybe I can figure out the problem with the window and save even more cash.
  • mrbee25mrbee25 Member Posts: 3
  • showemrightshowemright Member Posts: 2
    i ended up pulling out that broken black plastic mechanism that was attached to the lift latch with a pair of pliers , then i unlocked doors to vehicle the i inserted a phillips head srew drinder into hole where i removed the plastic piece o felt around until it seemed like i was on top of something then i pulled crew driver handle upwards towards me doing this made the head of the screw driver to descend dodownward deepressing onto a button or something inside that allw the door to open , i repeated 5- 6 times for practice i even had my 16 yr old son do it repeatedly n now we have access to rear compartment , although u have to have a screw driver readily available it works thats all what matters for now until i gather funds to repair this problem, my rear window and wiper stopped working on my truck 4 yrs ago , the sequoia is a nice driving vehicle but its plagued with lil thing s that can inconvenience the hell out of you also my driver side window wont roll down all the way i believe its off the track again , this is the 2nd time it happened , i secured it the first time with epoxy 2 part adhesive , but someone told me i should use a black epoxy adhesive because its stronger, my door handle on driver side on indside broke off , toyota repaired it free of charge and this was in 2004 , by the way i have an 02 sequoia and now my passenger side inside pull door opener is broken , currently the passenger would have to roll window down to open door from outside handle , also my button to check the temp and gaseline mileage thats located above near eyeglass holder broke so i called toyota service dept they wanted $700 to replave the whole electronic mechanism , i ended up taking it apart i got to the housing where the broke button was , ended up going to lowes and buying an assorted small spring bag, i looked for the right sixe to fit into button housing , i inserted spring into housing in order that the spring will push downwards on the button and i crewed everything back together and it worked fine since i save myself $696.47 .
  • showemrightshowemright Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    im thinking about sketching that broken plastic piece thats attached to the metal pullup handle of back door onto some old scrap metal sheets i have lying around perhaps this old washing machine i have downstairs in basement , i will cut out what i sketched using some cutters they use in auto body repair, repeat the cut 2-3 times to gain thickness as the plastic , ill use epoxy 2 part adhesive to adhere together what i just cut out , making sure to leave about an 3/4 of an inch extra metal at the end where the plastic was attached to the metal pullup handle i will bend the metal into a L shape in order that i can screw the cut out piece onto the pullup handle using self threading screws, this would make this door opener mechanism stronger , because metal is stronger than plastic.
  • blown7blown7 Member Posts: 8
    When I bought this vehicle the rear door would open & close by pressing, either the button on the dash or the button on the key fob.
    Now when I press any rear door button the system beeps twice and then...nothing.

    Any insights?


  • ldbjrldbjr Member Posts: 2
    I went to open my rear hatch and heard a click now the handle just moves back and forth without engaging the mechanism to open the door. I noticed that the driver side of the hatch seemed to be miss aligned before this happened and opened the hatch and closed it after ensuring nothing was impeding the hatch on closure. After I tried to open it again (without much force on the handle at all) it clicked. Does anyone have any idea how to open the hatch? The dealer said to bring it in but being unemployed for 9 months I hesitate to bend over for this BS defect. Any info/advice. appreciated [email protected] is my email. I can not believe there isn't an alternate override latch inside incase you were trapped you know?
  • larryc182larryc182 Member Posts: 1
    how did the repair go?
    i have 2002 SR5 on which the rear latch and window do not work. wondering where you got the part?
    how you got to the rear latch. i don't see any access points??
    i would appreciate any insights, thanks
  • maspietamaspieta Member Posts: 2
    Update on the Sequoia rear latch. After calling Toyota to see if there was a recall on the latch and receiving a negative response; I bought the part thinking I would fix it on my own upon reading how expensive it was to replace. I was wrong. I was able to have the part replaced by the local dealer for $100 plus the part which was around $100. I checked on having the window replaced and it will be $450...this will have to happen at a later date. I cannot help but think that some form of moisture is what is causing the issues with the latch and the window. I need support, but seriously doubt I will get that from the dealer. I believe there is a fault in the design. Can we please speak to the engineer? :-]
  • heytomsequoiaheytomsequoia Member Posts: 1
    Well my 2003 Sequoia's rear latch broke and my power rear window works intermittently. I figured I would warn folks that it was not the easiest repair to replace this latch, but I guess since I purchased the latch on for $23 including shipping I did save myself at least $175 to $375 depending on hearing that the dealer wants between $200 and $500 for the repair. Hope you have skinny arms and don't mind holding your arms over your head for most of the repair. Here is how I did the repair:

    First, you have to climb in the back of your Sequoia since you can't open the hatch. Take a flashlight, a 10 mm socket and some patients back there with you. a box fan sitting in the backseat blowing some air on you helps too if Sequoia is in a hot location. There is a pulldown strap that has to be removed first. Slide the plastic cover "up" to reveal the 10mm/phillips bolt that needs to be removed to get the inside plastic cover off. Then you will have to take ALL the plastic molding off to get this cover off. Start with the top molding in the center ABOVE the window. It pops off and comes off first. Then take the molding on the left and right sides of the window. It pops off too. Now you can remove the large plastic panel covering the lower half of the hatch. Squeeze your fingers into the window area and pull "UP" on the large getting the top section of the cover over the metal frame at the bottom of the window. Once over this pull "OUT" on the cover since the lower sections snap on.

    Take a deep breath because there is more covers to take off. Now you will need to take the 10mm socket and remove 8 bolts holding a metal cover over the power window mechanism. This cover has to have to cables unplugged if you want to get it out of your way. I recommend this after I did not do this at first and having this cover hanging by the cables and getting in your way just adds to the frustration if you take a few minutes and unplug it.

    now with this metal cover removed get your flashlight and look in from the drivers side of the power window mechanism. You should see a cable going from the latch (bottom center of hatch) to behind the license plate (where your broken latch is that you have to manually open). There is a clear plastic cover over the latch and cable. Pull this off. Then feel where the cable ends. Assuming the cable is still in the metal latch mechanism, push UP and to the PASSENGER Side of the car with this end of the latch extending the cable and hopefully popping open the hatch.

    If you have made it this far, go in and take a break, relax and regain your calmness. Now, to remove the broken latch you have to first remove your license plate and the screws holding the plate. Then, from the inside of the hatch there is one 10mm bolt holding the key lock mechanism on. Take this bolt off and let the lock down into the hatch. Now for the toughest two nuts to take off. Inside the hatch there are two bolts that are part of the latch that you must remove 10mm nuts from. You can almost see the Driver Side bolt and I took these out with a smaller 1/4" 10mm socket wrench. The nut on the passenger side it really hard to reach. Your forearms get torn up the the large gears for the power rear window, but once you get these two 10mm nuts off the latch from the inside you are almost there. Now with the key lock removed and these two nuts, on the inside of the hatch at the 4 corners of your outer license plate "trim" you will see snap in mounts. I squeezed these from the backside so that the license plate trim comes out. Unless you want to disconnect the power to the license plate lamps, just flip the frame over to remove the broken latch from this frame. There are two phillips head screws holding the latch to the frame. Once you get the old latch off, screw the new latch on. NOTE: Take care to screw the latch on evenly and all the way in or you may have to take it apart again to get the license plate frame to sit flush and snap back in.

    With the new latch installed, replace the license plate frame snapping it in from the outside and then put the 2 10mm bolts on either side of the latch from the inside as well as reinstall the key lock. Don't forget to connect the cable to the new latch. I removed the cable from a tydown block to give me more slack in the cable. Using the flashlight, take the end of the cable and thread the "ball" on the end through the slot on the new latch and press the outer shielding of the cable back as it was original. Replace the clear cover over the latch mechanism. At this point, test your new latch and make sure your license plate frame is snapped back in flush.

    If so, then reinstall the metal cover with the 8 10mm screws. Plug back in the wire harness (though I am still having trouble with my rear power window). Then put the plastic cover and trim back on in reverse order... large plastic cover, left and right window trim and top trim. Then put the pull down strap back on and replace the plastic cover on the strap by sliding it down.

    Hope this helps. I still wish there was a way to get all the power window gear out of the way and give you more access to do this job.
  • sportsjunkiesportsjunkie Member Posts: 4
    Thank you so so much for the information...the rear hatch lever on my 2003 sequoia just broke this evening :(
  • sportsjunkiesportsjunkie Member Posts: 4
    I forgot to ask you if you ended up going with a metal latch or the plastic latch. Will either one work?
  • 4runnergirl4runnergirl Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with the rear hatch door not opening, I can hear it locking
    & unlocking but has only opened a few times and that is only when I have the right back door opened, it's a hit & miss situation. The window operates fine though. Before I take it to the dealer for the cost of an arm & leg I would like to repair it myself. Any Help or direction would be greatly appreciated.
  • jafwojafwo Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Not wanting to pay over $500.00 for Toyota to fix my hatch, I put off fixing this DEFECT for about a year, until my mechanic told me that he has fixed quite a bit of these, $190.00 parts and labor, and 3 hours, and it's done.... I also was looking to beef-up the part by replacing the handle or maybe substituting anything that would break easily, but when my mechanic showed me the DEFECTIVE existing part...the handle and the hook are one molded piece... plastic!!!! so it would take some engineering. So if your in Southern California, San Bernadino area, I know where you can get this done cheap.
  • rockbrainrockbrain Member Posts: 1
    Over the last two weeks I've spent another $2k on my recurring tailgate problem with my 2003 Sequoia. This will be the fifth time it got stuck and wouldn't open. My favorite episode was when it got stuck out in Nevada on an off-road camping trip (getting the gear in and out of the passenger doors was a real treat). Then we got a flat, but couldn't access the spare because the rear gate was stuck. So we eventually had to bend the bottom of the door up a bit to get the wrench in to lower the spare. We took it back to Toyota (this was the 4th time the door broke) and they told us we would need to replace the door at our expense to get it to work because we bent it.

    We took the car to a local body shop to have the door replaced. But apparently they didn't do it quite right. Over the last year, water got into the door panel and messed up the circuit board, so the door wouldn't open anymore. So I took it to Toyota who said they wouldn't fix the electronics until the leak was fixed and that a body shop should fix the leak. I took it to a body shop who told me they couldn't find the leak until they could open the door and that it was stuck because of an electrical issue. Back at the Toyota dealership they told me this time that they could only open the door by destroying the door in order to access the locking mechanism. Then I went back to the body shop who said that the dealership was nuts and to take it to another dealership. I took it to another dealership who got the door open and the latch fixed. But I got it home and the whole thing froze up again because the electrical system was still broken. That's where we are tonight. Despite many complaints at no time has any Toyota representative handed me any consideration other than another bill.
  • thexmanthexman Member Posts: 1
    The cheap plastic piece broke on my 2003 Sequoia about 14 months ago (of course it wasn't covered under the warranty anymore). The dealer said it would cost almost $300 to fix, so I bought the replacement part online for $65 and found an out-of-work mechanic who replaced it for $80. Unfortunately, the handle broke again today, same exact way as the first, the cheap plastic part that takes the most stress in the entire handle and which is placed on one side of the handle, so that you create extra torque every time use it. This piece really does seem designed to fail! And would it kill them to put a hatch release button somewhere else in the car? Either on the inside of the lift gate or somewhere in the front of the car would work. The '82 Buick Century wagon my parents had when I was growing up had a liftgate release button inside the glove compartment and it was a very useful feature, one that should really be standard on a vehicle that costs as much as the Sequoia! Does anyone know if I can get such a button installed in my Sequoia, or if anyone makes a liftgate handle that is made out of metal and can actually perform it's desired function for more than just a couple months longer than its pathetic warranty!
  • edoc2000edoc2000 Member Posts: 1
    I started having the same problem with my 2010 Limited. Out of nowhere the power back door stoppe working. I haven't brought it back to the dealer yet, but will give an update when I find out what the problem is. Feel free to email me at [email protected] if you have not heard from me.
  • lockman14lockman14 Member Posts: 3
    edited July 2010
    There is actually an easier way to open the tailgate. Roll the rear window down and use a wedge, you can make one out of wood real easy or buy one made out of hard rubber for a couple of dollars. Carefully put the wedge between the inside weatherstripping and the glass. It doesn't take a lot to to make a small 1/4 inch gap that will allow you to look at the inside. Using a good bright flashlight look down inside the door right above the handle and you will see the cable assembly. There is a wire that may block your view a little but take your time. Once you spot the cable assembly use a long thin screwdriver or pretty much anything that is strong and will fit inside the opening you have created, push down on the opposite side of the part where the cable hooks into and the tailgate will pop open. You may have to pull the tailgate while doing this but it's a lot easier then being cramped in the back sweating your you know what off. Once you look inside the door panel it will all make sense, it's very easy to do. It took me less than 2 minutes to open the tailgate. Then follow the instructions given by " heytomsequoia" for disassembly. If you take your time and relax and think about all the money you are saving by doing it yourself that should help.
  • blwhflblwhfl Member Posts: 3
    just broke-will not open and was getting ready to pack for trip to take my son to college--go Toyota!!!

    add mine to the long list of Sequoia owners with hatch problems
  • kb32kb32 Member Posts: 1
  • blwhflblwhfl Member Posts: 3
    that did not open to anything that was related to my issue/thanks anyway
  • lockman14lockman14 Member Posts: 3
    thexmen: This is in response to your broken handle. I own a Locksmith business in Jacksonville, Fl. I have dealt with so many of the broken handle issues I finally came up with my own fix for that cheap plastic molded piece. I use a heavy duty steel sex bolt that once in place not only can take the pressures of opening the hatch but the way I have it designed the bolt is capable of moving back and forth riding along the release part of the handle. This allows for the part to always have the least amount of pressure on it while opening, which of course means it will probably outlast the vehicle.
    The first time I saw how cheaply designed this handle was there was absolutely no way I was going to use the same type of handle again, just so a year or less down the road I could come back to the same job and repeat. I fix and replace the handle for $150 and I have done so many it only takes me a little over an hour. If anyone would like to email me I can be reached at [email protected]
  • lockman14lockman14 Member Posts: 3
    I'm a Locksmith in Jacksonville Florida and I have fixed so many of these handles on the rear hatch that I can do it in my sleep. I have found a simple solution to fixing the broken handles. I brought one in to all the Toyota dealerships and they all agree it's the best and easiest fix they have seen. The best thing is it could be easily added when they do the original mold of the handle. I've taken pictures of a repaired and I even have previous customers that are willing to say how well the fix works. I have sent this idea to Toyota in person and online and not one person has responded. It's total cost for my fix on the handle itself is less than a dollar and it's metal. I tried but they don't want to listen to someone not associated with toyota research and development or with the company in any position.
  • paulperkinspaulperkins Member Posts: 5
    Lockman, your mistake is believing that Toyota is altruistic and wants to improve its vehicle reliability, which they don't, because they want to keep you handing over your dollars over to their dealers on a statistically predictable periodic basis for parts and labor. This rear latch mechanism has been used for at least a decade (the identical part was used on both my 1999 Toyota Sienna and my 2007 Toyota Sequoia - where both have broken) and it is a well-known 'defect' within Toyota but they know it keeps the soccer moms coming back with their credit card as reliably as the 'Check Engine' light that illuminates every 5,000 miles.

    When my Sequoia's rear latch broke, I checked eBay and found a plastic replacement part for $17.00 and a cast METAL version of this part on eBay for $33.90 (including shipping). My wife, being the wonderful woman as she is, thought she would do me a favor and take it into Phillips Toyota in Leesburg, FL dealership. She was told that the part was not even available in metal and that the plastic replacement part alone was $76.81, with an installed price of $280.34. Needless to say, I bought the METAL part on eBay for $33.90 and installed it myself. Total cost $33.90 for a metal part that will last forever vs. $280.34 for a plastic part that would be broken and back to the dealer again next year.

    I will not even consider buying another Toyota vehicle. Their build quality is like the old gray mare: she ain't what she used t' be.
  • paulperkinspaulperkins Member Posts: 5
    Kudos, Heytomsequoia, for doing a great job documenting the process of replacing the broken Sequoia rear door latch. Having just done this job myself today, my only comments to add to Tom's are that:

    First: In the 2nd paragraph of his instructions, Tom states that you need to take ALL of the trim off including the top trim. Though he is correct that you need to pop out the interior rear window pillar trim off on both the left and right sides, you do NOT need to remove the trim from the top of the window. Just pry the left and right side pillar trim pieces out firmly. Again, be prepared to pull out firmly since there are 3 of the white plastic Toyota trim snaps holding each pillar side trim piece on (I found it helps to use a screwdriver to pry/pop each snap out from the underside of the trim piece).

    Second: When the rear door latch is broken and the rear door is closed tight, it's cramped and miserable to squeeze your whole body behind the 3rd row seat and is not easy to get your fingers to pry up the tightly-secured interior trim panel and pop it off from the inside. My first instinct was wrong: I tried to pull the interior panel upwards. No, the panel is snapped in place by 8-10 of those white Toyota interior trim snaps and only THEN it will lift up. My bassackwards approach (which actually worked very well) was to roll the rear window down, stand on the outside at the back of the vehicle, and then use a stubby flat screwdriver to gently and slowly pry the interior panel weatherstrip up and over the metal lip backing it and THEN pop off the interior trim panel by pushing the trim forward while standing on the outside.

    In Tom's 5th paragraph, he says that your arms get torn up by the large gears of the power window mechanism when trying to remove the two nuts from the back of the broken handle. I started down this same path too, but fortunately noticed two half-dollar sized rubber grommets at about where the nuts are located. If you pop those rubber grommets out, you can get a 10mm socket wrench with a 6" extension to access those nuts without ripping up your arms.

    Finally, I suggest that everyone here buy their replacement part on eBay or Amazon where you can get your replacement Toyota Sequoia rear door latch in METAL instead of plastic for under $35. Don't buy the $70+ replacement part from Toyota (why would you reward a company that makes this known defective part for more than a decade?) and, besides, Toyota only sells cheap plastic replacements when metal OEM versions are half the price and will last for the life of the vehicle.

    Any questions, you can email me at [email protected] and I'll be happy to try to answer.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,457
    Even better, just post in here. We all benefit when a problem is discussed on the open forum. Thanks.
  • scosentinoscosentino Member Posts: 1
    Thanks to the online advise I was able to fix my rear latch handle for $33.90. However, when I have it all back together I can't get the rear door latch to lock. The rear door key system works fine - operating all the car door locks. The rear latch just won't lock. Do I have a connection problem with the new metal handle? What could the problem be now?
  • jameslgjameslg Member Posts: 5
    My 2008 has started with the same problem. I was hoping you had found a fix.
  • sunshinekmouasunshinekmoua Member Posts: 1
    I had my rear latch fixed from a local repair shop for over $300 (cost is much higher at local Toyota Dealer) and not even a year later, it broked again! I went on with no opening of my rear door for a year and a half now. My concern is that this problem may occured if I fixed it again. In my opinion, it has to be a defective, or lack of something. Everything of this car is falling apart! I'm putting more money into this car when I could just save it up to buy a new car! I had other Toyota cars, but the Sequoia is by far worst, and I do not recommend it to any family and friends.
  • paulperkinspaulperkins Member Posts: 5
    Do yourself a favor and go onto eBay and buy the METAL rear latch for less than $35. If you're mechanically inclined, you can fix it yourself; if you're not, you can take the part to your mechanic who will install it.

    It won't break again. The job should take a competent mechanic about 90 minutes. If you pay more than $120 for the installation by a non-dealer, you're paying too much!
  • eileenbeckeileenbeck Member Posts: 2
    We are the original owners of a 2001 Sequoia with over 200,000 miles. We have the "rare" (according to TSB EL007-01) high beam indicator inoperative, the drive indicator inoperative, excessive brake wear, many plastic pieces falling off, and the continuing rear window and door handle problems. We replaced the handle with the metal version last time, but when we put everything back together we developed an electrical problem somewhere in the system. The following items quit working: running lights, door open indicator, passenger windows from the driver's door panel, rear window and door lock from the remote control or from the driver's controls. If you use the key to unlock the driver's door, the horn alarm will sound until you put the key in the ignition. Intermittently, the alarm will sometimes go off unlocking with the remote control. Individual windows all work fine at their individual door controls. The rear lock and window work with fine with the key in the back. My local mechanic found the following diagnostic codes: B1211, B1212, B1214, B1242, B1271, and B1287.

    When we disconnect the rear MPX ECU, the electrical problems go away from the rest of the car, but the rear door is completely dead, even with the key. We did a visual inspection of the wires and don't see any frays. I hate to replace the costly rear ECU or body ECU unless I can prove they are the cause. Any ideas out there?
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