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Chevrolet Blazer has no power and engine bogs down

dprovindprovin Posts: 2
edited June 2015 in Chevrolet
In the morning I'll drive the car and it will be fine but wheni park it and come back to it later for lunch i have no power at all. The engine bogs down when first driving. I'll have it floored for a little bit then out of nowhere i get power. i have changed all the plugs, wires, distributor, cap, fuel filter and pump.. I'm out of idea's. It also has a rough idle if that has anything to do with it. People have said it may be a clogged cat converter? any ideas? Thankss

See Also: Chevy Trailblazer Loss of Power


  • captferdcaptferd Posts: 14
    2 things to check. First see what code it has stored. It will be either PO100 thru PO104 (Mass Air Flow) code. Or PO300 (Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire) code.
    Both of these problems have symptoms you've described. The first (Mass Air Flow) is located on the air breather intake (looks like a honey Comb). If not that code then your problem is most likely the cheap plastic distributor that GM installed for that year. Take off that expensive cap and see if the shaft jiggles. It is better to remove the distributor to inspect it. AutoZone sells a lifetime warranted Distributor for about $90.
  • dprovindprovin Posts: 2
    It has a lean code that comes up with the random misfire.. i have already replaced the distributor and there has been no change.. they attached a fuel pressure gauge on it thinking it might be the fuel pump that they put in. not sure what else it could be unless its the injector which if i remember right it very pricey for the vortec engine. not sure what else to do...
  • captferdcaptferd Posts: 14
    The description you give is an identical problem that I had at one time. I did all the things your describing everything from the tune up to the injector s. I had this problem for almost a year before it set off the mass air flow code. Once I replaced that all was fine. The distributor happened after and had almost the same symptoms. Im not sure that you can check it but the MAF sensor is were my finger would be pointing towards next. The injectors would cause more of a constant problem than an intermitant one. Hope I've helped.
  • Could possibly be a converter problem. The problem that most Blazers have is a malfunction ignition switch. Take it to a good local mechanic (not a dealer) and see if this is one problem.
  • My Blazer bogs down when you hit the gas and has trouble starting. We have replaced the MAF sensor, plugs, rotor, cap, plug wires, and fuel filter. The fuel pressure is at 50psi when idling and 64 wot when driving. Can we have pressure without flow? Initially the code was p0171. Now that we cleared it it hasn't come back on. Pulled O2 sensor to relieve back pressure and there was no change. Cleaned connections on battery. On scanner TPS checks good( 0-100%). ABS coming on at brake, could that have anything to do with it( no light)?
  • silbssilbs Posts: 1
    The car was backfiring and the mechanic said the distr. needed adjusting but that it was not adjustable. He made things work by "grinding" something. The car now runs fine, but am I in for trouble in the future because of this?
  • jadotyjadoty Posts: 1
    ok so the other day i had to make a two hour drive in relitivily cold weather. so i started my blazer 15 min before i left, and i noticed that the service engine soon light was flashing. so i popped the hood to check all my fluids and what not, everything was ok. the light shut off and then i left. i was driving down the road and my brack light turned on. then shut off.....about 30 min later i went to pass someone and it hesitated to accelerate, then about another half hour later it stalled on me while i was driving. i pulled into the gas station, and re started it, and it started fine. so then i continued. everything was fine until later on in the day. i the blazer sat for about 5 hours after the first set of stuff.....i was going to park in the parking spot, and it just died. i lost all my power, and i noticed that i had smoke coming from the right side of the hood. so i popped the hood and look for the source and i couldn't see anything. then i had someone come to help me get it in the parking spot and he wanted to try to jump me, and well when we tried that i almost killed his car. i drew so much power that i almost stopped his engine....originonally i was thinking O2 sensor due to the light the slow acceleration, but i still had good gas millage. so i am just a little confuse....and i do know how to jump a car....
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Have your battery checked. If it shorted out, it will pull enough current to overload (and possibly damage) the alternator and cause enough drag to kill the engine. It won't jump start either. The engine of the other car will slow down, and the jumper cables will heat up. Even running, the load of the shorted battery will cause a low voltage condition causing all sorts of issues for the computer.

    I have seen two different cars just recently where batteries less than 90 days old have shorted out. Somebody (there are only a couple of companies that make batteries, they just change the labels for the different brands) is making junk batteries. I use Delco and have had no problems, Interstate seems to be okay. The bad ones were both from AutoZone.
  • Check for vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF. I had an issue with deteriorated vacuum lines allowing excess air into the intake manifold causing an intermittent misfire due to an excessively lean mixture. Was driving me NUTS.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Good Morning,

    We are going to ask you a stupid question, if you don't mind? What would MAF mean? We're not sure of what that could mean. Let me know. Thank you.
  • MAF is the mass air flow sensor and is located between the air filter box and the carb. You'd probably have one or both of these codes po101, po102 and possibly duplicate codes.

  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Mr. Rick,

    We don't have a MAF problem. Lets do this, go back and read all of my post that we've put up and please, let me know if I may have not went into depth about. We really need some help with fixing the issue that is at hand. Please, help, if possible. Thank you....
  • Are you smelling raw gas at all?
  • bchro2bchro2 Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    Got a question. I have a 2001 Blazer, last week as I was climbing a hill I attempted to accelerate and heard a "pop" and my engine started to bog down. Over this last week the bogging down has got progressively worse but only happens when you attempt to accelerate. I took my vehicle into the chevy dealership and now they have replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, PCM (Powertrain Control Module), and still can't figure out what it causing the problem. In the past year the fuel pump and filter has been replaced twice, the intake manifold gasket, water pump, radiator, and I am sure some other things that I can't think of. Any ideas what could be the problem???

    In addition, anytime you hit the gas to accelerate the RPM gauge suddenly shoots up to 3.5 and shoots back down to 2, and keeps going up and down until you let off of the gas.
  • My first test would be with a vacume gauge. If the vacume is good it should hold between 25 and 29 at idle. May be a little low cause of the rough idle, but what your looking for Is for it to drop slowly to well below specs. This checks the catalyst converter it could be clogged.
  • I'm new to forums, but I need help. Every step u said about maf and raw gas smell is true about my blazer. I was just wondering how much it would cost to fix this problem. And how I would go about resolving the situation. What do I buy. And what do I tell my mechanic to replace. And how much would he charge for the labor. Thank you.
  • If the mass air flow sensor is the problem they are not hard to change. They cost a little over 100 dollars. Its located just past the air filter in the tube going to the engine . I believe its connected with two big hose clamps on the two ends and can be removed and replaced in a few minutes. You can go to autozones website and should find the info ther on its price and removal.
  • Thanks for the info. I plan on doing the work this weekend. Much appreciated!!!
  • Where are you smelling raw gas? as there may be a seperate problem to address as well. Behind the drivers rear wheel under a leather type cover the gas lines come up and over the rear axle. At this place the fuel lines are notorious for rusting and leaking. Check there and see use a flash light If so get back with me on a easy fix.
  • Okay. So I bought Crc maf cleaner. Took it apart sprayed it as well as the compartment it attaches to. Charged battery. And engine still will not accelerate when on the freeway.
  • Will mass air sensor make it have a loss of power. Won't go over 20 mph.
    Starts right up. New plugs and wires. Never really cuts off. Runs hot but not extremely.
  • captferdcaptferd Posts: 14
    Mass air flow is usually an intermitant problem. This sounds more like a stopped up catylist converter.
  • mtlwizmtlwiz Posts: 6
    take the cat off and run it, see if it gets hot, most likely that will be the problem, gm cats fall apart inside over time and can clog themselves up with the broken pcs.
  • Will the cat go out just like that. Run fine one day and then loss of power the next.
  • mtlwizmtlwiz Posts: 6
    it's just a ceramic honeycomb, it can break up anytime with age and vibration,hot and cold, etc, and they can cause all kinds of issues that are hard to pin down. they choke the motor and it can't breath when they fall apart.
  • captferdcaptferd Posts: 14
    A simple vaccume test can be done to check for a bad coverter. No need to remove it. the proceedure was earliar in this thread I believe. If not you can search it for the specs and what to do.
  • There is no codes stored in the computer. Can the cat be blocked and not give any codes.

    Thanks for the help.
  • captferdcaptferd Posts: 14
    Yes that is possible. The vaccume test is simple to do. Most autoparts stores will loan you the guage. Do this to test the converter. The vaccume should recover ammidiatly, If it is very slow to return to its normal specs it will be a stopped up converter.
  • krob0920krob0920 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and alson waisted a ton of money. I finally took it upon myself and fixed it. I cut the catalytic converter out and replaced with a straight pipe and the car runs incredible. The only problem is you gotta know someone to get it passed for emissions
  • I have a 95 Blazer that I love and runs pretty good. Except I have no power when I take off from being in a stopped position or I can hardly make it up a hill. I have no cat just straight pipe, new plugs and wires and no mechanic can seem to figure it out. It also runs a little on the hot side. Help please.
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