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Ford Ranger Fuel System
my 94 ranger has a fuel smell, no leaks, could it be the fuel pressure regulatorl
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If so, start talking to them about the Lemon Law of your state. After something like 3 or 4 attempts to fix a single problem under warranty, if they cannot fix it, they are required to buy the vehicle back from you.
I would think a little discussion about this - you will get some concentrated action on repairing your truck.
I have a 2005 FOrd Ranger--driving down the highway the engine just quit for no apparent reason--after a few minutes of just hanging out it restarted and on my way I went. On the way back home it quit again--this time no restart. The engine spins but wont start as if no fuel or no spark. GOt the truck home and it started right up. Next day I changed the original equip fuel filter---ran for about 4 miles parked it next morning ran across the parking lot and shut down again. Now it is back in the drive and I can not simulate the problem.
Any ideas?
When this sensor fails, it totally shuts the car down. Very dangerous if you are traveling at high speed. In GM cars (Cadillac) they act exactly as you said, and they also do NOT set a check engine failure code many times. So, 'pulling the codes' will not even show what happened.
I hope you got your Ranger fuel problem fixed by now. I just bought a '94 and the night I picked it up and filled the tank, it leaked. I suspect the filler neck and I'm curious on what is all involved with it's replacement. Can you share your experience please?
Thanks,
Base -----
BTW, it you replace the fuel pump, go ahead and replace the sending unit for gas gauge. Garage did warn me that pulling the old fuel pump out of the tank damages the sending unit for fuel gauge 90% of the time.
It is on the firewall, inside cab, passenger side, just to the right of the tunnel, just under the top end of the carpet.
I think there is a button that should be pushed in. If popped out, it cuts the power to fuel pump.
P.S. If your are push-starting your truck, I don't think the fuel cutoff switch is your problem. If it gets tripped, you have to reset it. Now it does have wiring to it, and I think a relay also drives it. All these could be giving a problem.
I am still trying to figure out why the dealer only wanted about one third the $130 autoparts price for the switch.
Fuseable links, magnetic relays, and mechanical switches are about the only things that could be motion/vibration sensitive, and humidity/corrosion/debris wasn't a consideration in my case. I don't know of any other electrical components that cause intermittent problems, so it has/had to be mechanical(like the inertia switch or something else).
The third socket on the connector kills the pump when connected to the center socket. Pushing the reset button opens this circuit at the same time it closes the other.
Don't understand the 'replaced the float valve' comment. Usually, the fuel pump and 'float' for the gas guage are on the same unit and are replaced together. Especially since it's not easy to drop the tank to get to them. I think the guy that put the new 'float valve' in messed it up, otherwise your gauge should work. But the problem with the rubber hose is still there, if you cannot totally fill the tank.