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Certified Pre-Owned Vehicles



  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    It isn't an option...the Honda dealers HAVE to replace the things that Honda requires. I suppose they could cheat the system but I don't think they would want to take the risk. I seriously doubt that happens. The shop likes the extra work!
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,715
    Your store sounds like a real stand-up operation, and I don't mean the comedic kind.

    But I'm with Walt on this one... just cuz the rules say the store has to replace them, I don't think the Honda Fariy comes and looks for the old brake pads under the floor mats.

    There are plenty of rancid dealerships out there, and I doubt that Honda is an exception. See Walt's story about the CPO Civic.

    "Turn 'em and burn 'em..."

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    And I'm sure there are dealers somewhere who cut corners. I doubt if this is the norm however.
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    ............. Most of your Honda dealers with do what has to be done .. meaning, it will replace tires if need - not required .. will replace brakes if needed - not required ......

    There is what.? 1,100 Honda dealers out there.? .. and probably 400/500 will meet the requirements ... it depends on the store and what they feel is right or wrong, some dealers feel $250/$300 is enough spent and some feel $250/$300 is too much, so don't take it personal Isell ...

    I just spent $350 on a 00 Altima GLE with 100k .. new air gas and oil filters, new battery, new cap wires and plugs, new front brakes and all new belts .. and I'm going to send it the auction, if I can get my $$ back, fine .. if not, I will bring it back and put it on the lot -- everyone is different ..

  • gutiarmangutiarman Posts: 1
    after buying a car,if you totally do not like it, can you return it? legally do you have a grace period that you can get out of a contract? any info would be gratefull! ron
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Unless that dealership has a return policy you own the car. There is no "grace" or "cooling off" period with cars.

    They might be willing to exchange it for something different.
  • mpassmpass Posts: 17
    A question - I am about to buy a CPO Acura and want to also purchase an AcuraCare extended warranty. Is there such a thing as a wrap around AcuraCare warranty to go with the certified pre-owned coverage or do I have to buy the standard AcuraCare warranty and, in effect, pay to cover the stuff that comes free under the CPO warranty? Thanks!
  • cadillacmikecadillacmike Posts: 543
    I bought my wife's 2005 CTS as a Cadillac Certified Pre-owned vehicle - with a 6 yr, 100,000 mile factory warranty (nice). They have a "125 point checklist" yeah, yeah, yeah. I still hav ethe original checklist, but this is wierd:

    The brakes are supposed to be checked. We've had no problem in about 10,000 miles. But in order to check the brakes you need to pull the wheels.

    Well, I was going to have the wheels balanced and rotated and the dealer calls me up to inform me that the right front wheel is bent. I go over there and sure enough there is a small dent as if from a curb, or maybe a LARGE pothole, but it's in the INSIDE edge of the wheel?!?!?! I don't drive it much, but I don't get any vibration or anything like that at any speed, and my wife never mentioned hitting anything, and if she did, it would have needed to really jolt the car. I'm not having the wheel replaced (at least not right away) because it's like a $600.00 wheel!

    I think it was already dented when we bought it and nobody noticed it you wouldn't have been able to tell unless it was put on a spin balancer in any event. Even on the spin balancer, if you mast your view of the wheel rin, the tire does not appear out of round, so it's not affecting handling. My problem is in convincing them that that my wife didn't hit something. I guess it's either that or the local "recycling" shop (aka junkyard) for a wheel!
  • mangsmangs Posts: 2
    I'm planing to buy certified 2003 BMW 325i/2003 Infiniti G35/Lexus ES300 but not sure which of them are more reliable and fuel efficient. I'm looking for more engine power though.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 128,188
    Power: G35... ES300.... 325i

    Fuel Efficiency: 325i.. ES300.. G35

    Reliability: ES300... G35.. 325i

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • mangsmangs Posts: 2
    Thanks kyfdx, that was helpful. I have one more question : For a 2002 BMW 325 with 37559 miles and premium package, auto tran, xenon lights, dealer is asking for $25,995. Is it a good price for that car?
    Thanks in advance.
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    ......... **2002 BMW 325**

    Which one ..................................?

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 128,188
    Coupe? Sedan? Color? Condition? Location (city/state)?

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • hunt4carhunt4car Posts: 12
    I'm thinking about buying a Certified BMW 325i, 2004 with about 20, 000 miles from a BMW dealer. They are asking $30,000 which I think is too high (given that the residual value for a 2006 325i BMW after a 2 year lease is $27100).

    I wanted to know your thoughts on what a reasonable price is for the 2004 BMW 325i (it has leather and power seats and auto transmission and that's it).

    Also, when looking at the Certified market is it worthwhile to run a VIN number check? I'm also looking at a similarly priced 2005 325i BMW with 13000 miles but not certified (comes with BMW 4yr/50000 miles). Is it worth doing a VIN check for the 2005?

    Any other suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.

  • cmw208cmw208 Posts: 1
    I purchase two cars at one time. One was for me the other for my boyfriend. I felt like I was forced into that purchase but now I can't make the payment on my vehicle. Both cars are in my name but my boyfriend gives me his payments. They are both 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer ES one silver, the other grey. I want to know if I want to trade in each car separately for a pre-owned honda accord and nissan maxima is that possible at all? Or if I trade in both at the same time could I get one pre-owned car and have nearly no car payment at all?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,107
    depends on alot of things.
    1. what the cars are worth now (my guess is "much less than you think")
    2. how much you put down on them (and, as a direct result, how far "upside-down" you are in the loans)

    If the answers to 1 and 2 are not good, then chances are you'd be looking at carrying alot of negative equity into another car(s), thereby making them very costly.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    If they bought those Mitsubishis under that Nothing Down, Zero Interest program theyt had going. Few cars depreciate as fast as a Mitsubishi.

    Probably no good news here.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    You can't trade the Lancer even-up for a used car. You will owe the difference between what the Lancer is worth and how much you owe (I'm guessing several thousands) PLUS the cost of the used car. Trade in both cars and you'll have double the debt.
    You can't get out of a hole if you keep digging.

    You probably could trade both and get used cars, but you'll still end up paying for this deal. The only way to have a little car payment is to not borrow much. If you want to have no car payment, pay CASH, or ride a bike.
  • I don't have much experience buying cars. Until his death, we always bought from my Father-in-Law. Good dealership and great people. He always gave us the best deal that he could.

    Yesterday, I found an '05 Accord EX, Leather, Nav, 4 cyl with 26K that I was interested in. Since the car was about 180 miles away in another state, I was dealing via email. Based on my research of 3 internet sites, I determined that dealership had around $18,500 in the car (average trade in value of the 3 sites). I know I was 3K upside down in my car. I added that so now I'm at $21,500. Since it's a CPO, I added $1000 ($22,500) for the warranty.

    Since I live in another State, I think I would pay the sales tax in the State where I live and where the car would be titled. I didn't think these fees would be involved in the sale.

    I know the dealer has to make a profit so I made an offer of $24,500 out the door.

    I guess I insulted them because they called ( all previous correspondence had been email) and said they couldn't accept my offer and they didn't even make a counter offer. I got the feeling that I was so far off that they didn't want to waste their time on me.

    So, where did I go wrong?
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    I can't answer as to what the car you are interested in is worth but what does the 3k you are upside in your present car have to do with what you are offering on the Honda?

    If you were 10k upside down would you have offered 30.5? Sorry but you are not making much sense here.

    Assuming that 18.5 is valid for trade-ins you're offer was too high!
  • Thanks jproc,

    What I was trying to do is add the difference between the trade in value of my car and the payoff (3K) into the financing of the new car. I figured that if the trade in was 5k and the payoff was 8k, I could either finance the 3k difference or pay it myself. I was going to roll it into the new car payment.

    Does that make sense or am I still not explaining it right?

    Thanks again.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    Okay I understand your post now.I suspect you simply didn't offer enough than for the car.Go the the Trade in Values discussion here A guy named Terry knows what these cars are worth and He will help you out.
    Good luck
  • OK, thanks for your help and pointing me in the right direction.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,107
    i'm guessing that since you mentioned getting trade-in values from internet sites (let's say KBB, edmunds, and NADA - am i close?) ... then I can tell you all of your numbers are most likely wrong. Its rare that any online pricing sites are accurate as to the true auction value (trade-in value) of vehicles. As someone else said, asking Terry is your best bet. Otherwise, if you really want the closest numbers possible from an internet site, you'll need to go to and pay a fee to view their numbers. But those can also be wrong depending on where you reside. They are most accurate for the northeast U.S.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • croscros Posts: 1
    Where can I find the 50% requirement for California in writing? Thank you
  • For the longest time I have been looking for a decent 330xi with nav, finally found one and it was sold. The other one I am looking at right now under carfax it states it used to be a lease than commerical? anyone have any feedback on commecial and its worth my time to travel 2 states away to look at it? help me out here.
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    ...... It's no big thing if the history is super clean, the service is 110%, it's knee deep in rubber and it's seen no Maaco time .. oh yeah, and the price is right .......... ;)

  • funtaifuntai Posts: 6
    How can I make sure a car is CPO? After reading this thread I've talked (emailed) with a salesman who set me on edge.

    I responded to an ad which mentioned that the car in the ad was "certifiable". That doesn't mean much though - the car just needs to be less than 6 years old with less than 80,000 mi, right? After I emailed, asking for a lower price, the salesman told me the car was honda certified. However, I've looked for CPO cars in the area and this isn't listed as one on the search engine from Honda's site, and this dealer isn't listed as a CPO (or regular) Honda dealer either. Is wasn't sure whether or this was suspicious, so I looked up the dealer's BBB listing, and even though the dealer claims to have been in business for two decades, the "open file" date is file years ago.

    I don't know if all certified used cars are listed on the website, if any dealer can certify a used car, or what the "open file" date is, so I don't know if I should actually be wary of this dealership. Am I just being paranoid?
  • rroyce10rroyce10 Posts: 9,359
    .... **Am I just being paranoid? ... **

    I don't think you're being paranoid .. your just making sure that you get what you pay for ....

    "Certified" vehicles are not going to show up all, or even part of the time ....... remember what a CPO is - it's nothing more and nothing less than a "extended warranty" .. and there is a charge for that warranty, and depending on the vehicle, anywhere from $800 to $2,800 ......

    "certifiable" means it meets the basic standards so the warranty can be put into play -- it doesn't mean it's "certified" with a standing warranty ......... if the mileage is right and the history is better and you're not going to drive 45/50k a year, then your probably better off not taking the warranty ... a CPO is more for "peace of mind" only .. if you can't live without it and you find the vehicle of your dreams, then there is a complete set of paperwork and coverage that goes with the vehicle .. just make sure you see it and have all of the copies *before* delivery ....

    "certifiable" .... just like me.

    Terry ;)
  • ynotpsynotps Posts: 3
    I just purchased an 05 Buick LeSabre Custom from a local dealer. The car has 20,000 miles (which is high), asking price was $19,340 CPO - I paid $14,800 plus TTL. I'm happy with the deal, other than the mileage. However, I only drive abou 4,000 miles per year, so it will even out in a year or so. I did a Carfax report, it was perfect. What a great time to buy a used car as far as prices go!!!
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