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Various questions regarding the Mazda CX-9
Hi - I'm in the market for a CUV and seriously considering the CX-9
I have a few questions I'm hoping CX-9 owners can help me with -
1. does Mazda recommend using premium gas for the CX-9?
2. does the glass on the rear gate open independently of the gate itself?
3. Does the car's remote allow you to pop the rear gate open like a remote open trunk feature on some cars?
This is actually an important feature for me as me/wife are often approaching the car with both hands full of groceries, and a remote trunk/gate open is very handy
I know that there is a "powergate" option that allows you to close the gate remotely, but I'm asking about a more simple feature that just allows you to pop open the trunk/gate remotely (not close it remotely, which requires a piston/motor)
4. for the dvd systems, can the dvd player be controlled by the stereo/media controls on the front panel, or can it only be controlled by the dvd remote control?
thxs again!
I have a few questions I'm hoping CX-9 owners can help me with -
1. does Mazda recommend using premium gas for the CX-9?
2. does the glass on the rear gate open independently of the gate itself?
3. Does the car's remote allow you to pop the rear gate open like a remote open trunk feature on some cars?
This is actually an important feature for me as me/wife are often approaching the car with both hands full of groceries, and a remote trunk/gate open is very handy
I know that there is a "powergate" option that allows you to close the gate remotely, but I'm asking about a more simple feature that just allows you to pop open the trunk/gate remotely (not close it remotely, which requires a piston/motor)
4. for the dvd systems, can the dvd player be controlled by the stereo/media controls on the front panel, or can it only be controlled by the dvd remote control?
thxs again!
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2. Glass does not open independently.
3 and 4. Sorry, I don't know. My CX-9 does not have these options.
4. Sorry, don't have the DVD
On #3:
With power-lift gate option (together with SmartKey - can't separate the two),
there is a button on the SmartKey to close and open the lift gate remotely.
However, you need to unlock the doors/hatch first. For the hatch, that means you need to press unlock button on the fob TWICE (first click unlocks the driver's door, the second click unlocks the rest of doors - including the hatch). Then, you click the power lift-gate button to open it.
Once hatch is opened, there is a button on the
lower edge of the lift gate to close to by a single push.
I hope this is clear.
You can only control the audio. the remote is needed to control DVD menus and features. Volume cannot be controlled with the remote.
I have been getting 17mpg in SF Bay Area (morning/evening commute - 15 miles one-way). I get 18mpg in my old '01 Odyssey. Is that terrible?
I also got 22mpg from Fremont to Sacramento (averaging 75mph). That ain't bad.
I have GT AWD.
Compare the CX-9 to other AWD or 4 wheel drive vehicles and I think it is OK. I have a Isuzu Trooper (4 wheel drive - V6) which only manages 11-12 MPG in town driving. This is in the 2 wheel drive mode only, but shows that you are still turning all the gears of the 4 wheel drive, even though it is not actively engaged. Total weight also plays a big part in MPG.
To get your best mileage, look for the lightest weight vehicle, smallest engine, no 4WD. For me, I'll take the CX-9. I love the way it drives, looks, comfort, great satellite radio, etc.!
I have a pop-up tent trailer that is pushing the 3,500 lb limit when loaded, but the fact that the (apparently) exact same car is rated to tow an additional 900 lbs elsewhere in the world gives me a little comfort that I won't be over-working my car.
I pull my boat (~5,000lbs) on 5 mile stints from storage to the water on a regular basis. The CX-9 has no trouble doing so but I do run the risk of the added liability I assume.
I am having a quality problem with the interior door piece on my CX-9 and wanted to find out if anyone else is having the same problem as I am. I have a 2008 CX-9 AWD GT with 8K miles and less than 5 months old.
A few weeks ago, I went out of town, and let my wife borrow the CX-9 yeah, I gave her plenty of warnings about where to park .far from everyone else). When I returned, I found no dings or damage on the outside of the car, but I did find the interior door handle all scratched up. I am referring to the metallic finish, plastic piece that runs the horizontal interior length of the door and is used for opening and closing the door while seated inside.
We have no dogs, cats or even kids so this could not be from them. What I determined was that the scratching was caused by her wedding rings or fingernails as she climbed in and out of the car those few days. I saw similar (but not as much) on the passenger side which she is the ONLY person to ever use that door.
While getting my thoughts together to bring the car in this Friday for a few TSB fixes, I lightly ran my bitten fingernail (i.e. no real nail) across the plastic piece and WHAM! Instant scratch! I was thinking WTF!
If this is truly a door handle, as designed by Mazda, I would expect that this piece would hold up to many years of opening and closing without much impact. If this was truly a quality piece, I would expect Mazda to design this piece to withstand REAL fingernails on many different types of people. But what I found was that this piece is defective.
It is my belief now that this piece is defective from Mazda and clearly not designed well, or the production process on the date my handles were manufactured had a defect in the production line. Surely I should not be able to easily scratch this metal, with the slightest rubbing of my fingernail. Right?
It diesn't look like I can attach the photos here, but you should get the picture.
Thanks
H
Pic posting instructions are in the help link below. If you need a place to host the photos, your CarSpace Albums page is a good choice.
I wish someone make real aluminum pieces to replace them.
I would be first in line to buy them.
They are replacing all the metal trim door handle pieces. Not a single question asked.
They said they had not heard of this before. however, I think if we all go back to our dealers and demand replacement, they'll get the idea that there is a quality problem. I just wrote a letter to the Director of Customer Satisfaction with photos and a short video of how EASY it is to scratch the piece with a finger that has no real fingernail.
Now, I need to find a clear film to put over the new pieces so the same problem does not happen again.
I'll keep you posted.
FYI, Etrailer aftermarket hitch is designed for non factory tow packages as it fits in under existing rear valence and not flush with factory valence cutout, approx 4 inches lower. I have addressed this with etrailer as non factory tow package vehicles will have limited use for a 4000lbs capacity hitch and this puts hitch a little to low for comfort!!!!
Thanks
My popup has a GVW of 2780lbs with a GVWR of 3750, which should be no problem falling within with the 4000lb hitch rating & the Aussie tow specs. My primary concern is the 389lb trailer tongue weight, which is really pushing the 400lb rating of the hitch. to solve that I'm just going to make sure I pack more weight in the back of the trailer. I do not feel the need to install sway bars or load distributors through my towing experiences so far, which include highway driving at 75mph and curvy backroads in 90+ degree Nevada heat. The CX-9 appears to be up to the task. :shades:
Out of curiosity, have you weighed combined vehicle-trailer with people, supplies etc at truck stop or similiar?
I will have to take into account the larger "sail" area of a hybrid, but 60-65mph should be good while maximizing fuel mileage.
If no feedback from E-trailer on hitch design, I may have a body shop come up with some valence mod (faux skid plate etc) to cover hole and please the wife, though still would prefer hitch to sit higher for clearence reasons.
I'll provide CX9 performance feedback once camper in hand, and first trip completed. Thanks again
I guess my wife doesn't care about the hitch being lower than the notch...she's too happy about not having to sleep on the ground in a tent anymore! My Here's a picture of my set-up. I'm sure it's more aerodynamic than a hard-sided trailer. Sorry about the black & white, my wife changed the setting on the camera behind my back.
From junk
Just had a local wedlding shop modify aftermarket Draw-Tite 4000lb/400lb class thre hitch. They plasma cut the ears on the hitch, shorten them, welded back together with dioubler plat. 2" hiotch now sits higher and flush with original mazda cut out. I can forward photos if interested. really happy with end result
A basic question - if I make that switch, is there anything else that I would have to ask the dealer to change in the car?
As you can see, I am not as well versed as many others on this forum. Appreciate your help.
The 18" certainly make it feel softer due to higher side wall of the tires.
As for the on-snow performance, the 18" and 20" has similar Bridgestone Duel H/L tires. They are bad on snow (tho, all-season). I would suggest real snow tires or better all-seasons (such as Yoko Parada Spec-X - check tirerack.com for review) tires.
Power liftgate operation - is there a way to do this from the exterior lock/unlock button to the right of the lift gate handle? Yes, I'm that lazy.
Auto-lock feature - planning to have this turned on by the dealer today (auto locks all doors when you walk away using Advanced Key). Anyone have this done, and any regrets? Why is this not better than the default?
Thanks!
2) At first I wanted it, then I found out that car will auto lock anytime you walk away. Well I walk away half the time in my garage. Often times find myelf running down to the car to get something and the car is locked. Very annoying since I park it indoors in the garage where it's secured. If you don't have a garage, then it's probably not so bad.
For Autolock, I had it done and have "lived with it" for more than 1 year.
As Howard said, it is a bit annoying when you want to park the CX9 unlocked (such as in your own garage or gas station). My way to deal with it is simple.
At gas station, I leave the driver's door ajar.
In my garage, I close the door and walk away simultaneously very quickly. This gives no time for Autolock to confirm your location. Therefore, no locking.
If you can live with what I pointed out, you will love the rest of autolock.
Dealer should do this for you for free. However, they may charge you if you change your mind later and want it off again.
I had the autolock turned on earlier this week and for the most part I like it. Seems a bit unpredictable, depending on quickly/slowly I get away from the car - evne the direction I go. Figure I'll live with for awhile and work it out.
CX9's record is pretty good, though not top notch like Highlander/Pilot.
However, it shows that CX9's repair records are mostly red circles (you know what I mean if you read ConsumersReport) other than body hardware, which is an empty circle (i.e. so-so).
In short, CX9 does not have major issues with powertrain. Early models have some issues but mostly corrected by TSBs and probably not present on 2009/2010 models anymore.
So, if you plan to get a 2009/2010, I bet that the reliability should be pretty good.
I have a 2008 for 2 years (23K miles).
The only issue I had is that rear windows couldn't roll down completely due to loose styrofoams inside the doors (assembly issue - fixed easily).
Personally, to me, the number of issues is not as important as how significant the issues are. A powertrain issue certainly impacts you more than 5 minor problems such as rattling, loose pieces, etc.
In summary, CX9 and Mazda 3 are the top reliability performers among all Mazdas. Check ConsumersReport for reference.
A few points to add (for reliability):
- Engine: from Ford's Duratec 3.5L enlarged to 3.7L and revised the intake manifold.
- Transmission: from Aisin, same supplier than supplies transmission to Lexus and Toyota (so you that they are pretty smooth and reliable).
- Chasis: shared with Ford Edge
- Electronics: share many parts with Toyota/Lexus' suppliers as well.
Thanks for the reply, very good information. I did rent a Ford Edge for a week and really wanted to love the car but only liked it. I was never really comfortable in it. I need to try it again. I am considering CX9, Murano and Highlander. Do you have any thoughts on those cars?
For Highlanders, it's pros and cons (IMO, again) are
Pros: good engine power, MPG, statistically more reliable
Cons: Soft-ride (some may love it), non-split-able 3rd row (deal killer for many), smaller interior room
Toyota just had the massive recall on the gas pedal due to recent cases of unattended acceleration. Make sure the gas pedal is corrected on the one you buy.
I have a 07' Touring and I do not have the Bose system. What I do have is what looks to be speaker grilles built in to the "D-Pillar" moldings on each side. I know there is no speakers there because I have turned my volume up and put my ear next to it and there is no sound coming out of it.
My question is if anyone that has a CX-9 without the Bose system has removed the pillar moldings and can confirm that our non-Bose CX-9's are pre-wired for a speakers. I would love to install a set of speakers back there but before I do and start ripping things appart back there, I would like to know ahead of time.
Apparently, a tab/clip to hold the plate was broken. You should take it to the dealer if it is still under warranty.
Some SUVs don'thave anything there, and I like that openness (wife also likes it for her purse!).
Can anyone comment on that center console and how it affects your comfort? Thanks.
I have the same concerns about the center console. I like the car, but I find I couldn't get comfortable with the center console. My elbow kept hitting it!
It's not only wide, it's incredibly tall! Makes the car feel like so less roomy than it should be.
Quite frankly, because of that "feature" I'm looking at the pilot and the Highlander.
I also found that it really doesn't give much in the way of storage space, not when you consider the real estate it consumes.
I drive a Passat 1.8T which requires 91 octane - in that case, I use premium.
87 octane actually has higher energy content per volume than 91!!!
You will get better MPG from 87 if the engine is designed for it.
Don't buy in the "detergent" additive, either. Pop in a bottle ($1.5 or less) gas treatment on every oil change with a full tank of gas. It works just as good as any additive the some gas company claims to clean the engine. The so-called "detergent" is nothing more than just jet fuel.