Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
2007 AWD w/35,000mi. One ruined tire. New tire tread depth 10/32. Existing tires have 6/32 tread depth. Can I replace only one tire or will this adversely affect (wreck) the AWD components?
the car ECU (computer) only keep your sensor ID no. and each positions. However, since you rotated the tires, the 4 sensor ID do not changed (so no problem and no light on), but it already confuses the position for your computer now. so, it may show you wrong tire deflation later. (but some of car even no function to show each tire pressure in specific position. in this case, it will be no any influence.), wish it can help.
I have managed to get some information, but would still appreciate additional information on the most recent Hyundai AWD system.
Audi says the tire tread depth must be within 4/32" of each other. I meet this restriction.
Porsche Cayenne requires the tire tread to be within 30% of each other on same axle I would be over that limit at 40%.
Subaru has a system that sends power to all wheels all of the time and requires not more than 1/4" difference in the circumference of any of the 4 tires. This translates to no more than 1.25/32" of an inch difference in tread depth. I don't see how anyone meets this strict a tolerance with 4 matched tires over their lifetime.
If I understand correctly, the Hyundai electronic AWD system runs in FWD until slippage is detected in the front wheels. That would not occur at this time of year. I have placed the new tire on the rear axle which is freewheeling.
The new tire has 4/32" more tread depth than the existing. That results in about 3/4" difference in the tire circumference, so the new tire will rotate about 6 times less than the existing over a mile. I think there must be at least that much variation in rotation of 4 identical tires over a mile of cornering.
to be safe i would say no - you should replace all 4 together but only if the tires are worn to the point where the new tire would be 2/32 or more in difference than the old ones. if it were a true 4wd the jeopardy may be less because tolerances are built in on those systems (and i would still be reluctant to just do one tire). all wheel drive is different and having one tire with a different diameter could not only cause damage but create a safety issue - the wheels will be spinning at slightly different speeds. you should also use the same brand because different brands even though they are being sold as the same size are slightly different in diameter. imagine the computer trying to figure out why one tire is trying to spin slower or faster than the other 3.... then trying to compensate... there will be a problem even if you don't feel it...
I have a 07 Limited fwd....I replaced the stock 18's with Verdi 17's that ride on 235/55 Perilli PZERO M&S...this is as different as night and day...much improved handling and ride...tires are filled with nitrogen...I have pic on the site
Don't worry about it. The only difference you might see is in the braking (the new tire will have more traction) and the traction control system should adjust for that minute difference.
I for one, would just go ahead and replace all 4 tires, as you will otherwise, always have one tire with a different level of wear from the other 3. Or at the very least, get 2 new tires to keep the wear level constant on the same axle.
All this begs the question : how come only one tire has excessive wear? It could be an alignment problem, bad tire, or out of true. Was the wear on one edge or evenly all over the face of the tread? Were they ever rotated?
i was under the impression it was a case of a blown tire - after there was wear on all tires - now you need to replace the one blown tire with a brand new one - everyone wants to know if you need to change all 4 when only one is bad. It's an expensive deal but to preserve the mechanics of the awd system I would say you need to change them all IF the difference beteween the tires would be more than 2/32 - otherwise the other tires are fairly new and you can freely put on the one new tire.... BUT don't mix brands of tires on an awd...
Hi I own a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe, I bought it new with all season tires. I just recently moved to north Brampton and I'm wondering if all seasons are going to cut it this year. Should I spend the money and get winter tires and if so where would I get the best price?
I live in Barrie, and I don't believe all season tires ever cut it in the winter. My wife just purchased a 2008 SF this summer, and I just purchased a winter tire and rim package for it. It's a Limited, so it had 18" rims - these would be very expensive, so I went down to 16" rims and tires. I ended up purchasing Firestone Winterforce UV tires in a 235/70R16 size with steel rims from Active Green + Ross. I shopped around for weeks, but could not beat their price. Selection isn't great in that size, so you will be limited. The Michelin Latitude X-Ice would have been my first choice, but these would be have cost nearly $300 more for the set.
Thanks for the info. How much should I expect to pay for a set like you bought? I have my santa fe scheduled for the winter maintenance pkg with the dealer for the 6th of Nov. I was thinking they may have winter tires there and could install them at the shop, but I guess I would be paying an arm and a leg from them.
I paid just over $ 800 CDN for the 4 tires and 16" steel rims including taxes. The Firestone is quite a bit less expensive than the "premium" brands such as Michelin X-Ice and Bridgestone Blizzaks. Those premium tires have very advanced rubber compounds that work very well on ice, while the Firestone is a more traditional winter tire that has an aggressive block design for good performance in snow, slush, rain. I have Blizzaks on my 05 Odyssey, and can attest to their performance - if there are drawbacks, they are price and fast tread wear. I think the Firestones will prove a good tradeoff, though I will have to update you later this winter to know for sure.
There was quite a bit of discussion on this a while back, and the general conclusion was that, if you really need a good winter tire, the best choice - although on the expensive side - is the Nokian WR. Haven't thought about doing that for my SF (despite living in Colorado), but we'll see...
I called Hyundai and asked what it would cost me to put winter tires on the Santa Fe, and here's what they had to say:
Another option is to put the base model tire size on which is a P235/70R16. Our winter tire package special price is $1300.00 plus tax and installation. Total price with everything is $1520.98. For this price you will get 4 alloy mags with 4 Bridgestone blizzak dmz-3 tires. We only have one set of tires left and my supplier of this tire tells me they are sold out from Bridgestone. The other option is off brand tire (Cooper) which I have found a small number left in stock. This package would cost $1238.48 total price installed.
I told him to forget about it. As you might have guessed, I'm female and I have no intention of spending anymore than 500.00 for the set and installation. Tires are over priced...don't they all come off a cookie cutter assembly line? Seeing as I work from my home most of the time, I'll pick non-blizzard and non-ice days to go anywhere and stick with my all seasons. Thanks All for your comments.
Have you checked out any of the online distributors,like www.tirerack.com or www.discounttire.com? I just did a quick check at tire rack and came up with a tire and wheel combo for a little over $800. It's worth a look see.
I have a 07 Santa Fe Limited, This will be its 3rd winter, (i bought it in dec of 06). It has the stock duelers on it. I live in Minnesota, and have never been stuck with these tires. I don't like the duelers, and will not buy another set of them. They get around good in the snow , but make too much noise on dry pavement. When its time, they will be replaced with goodrich tires.
He may be referring to the speed sensors that calculate speed from how fast the wheel circumference spins. I think the stability and traction controls are separate.
FYI 18" wheels have at least a 12% difference in circumference thab 16" rims and therefore a 12% difference in speed rotation, as 18" wheels have to travel further to rotate once.
Pi x 16 dia = 50.272"
Pi x 18 dia = 56.556"
The actual tire outer edge circumference is bigger, so the speed difference is greater, but to illustrate a point, it is sufficient. I can't be bothered to go out and measure tires.
16" rims work fine on the 08 SF.(OEM was 235-60/R-18) I bought a set of the Ugly black rims and mounted 235-70/R-16 Nokian Hakkitupn'puke SUV tires, which is as close of a match as can be had. In the beggining they squeaked on dry pavement due to the soft rubber compound, quiet now though. The rims are a very tight fit, they do not leave much clearance between the brake caliper and the rim. But....it should work well to keep a build up of debris clear as well as protect the ever popular siezeing rear brake calipers on the rear of our Santas. Your service rep or dealer to whom you have spoken doesnt seem to have a clue about his product....these MSG boards are perfect for us DIY type people. Happy trails everyone.
I am also coming up on my 3rd winter, though here in atlanta, we really don't have to worry much about snow and ice (though a 1/4 inch will shut the city down). But as the tires are about due to be replaced, I am going with the Kumho's from tirerack.com, which are rated very high. FYI
I too bought four new Kumho Road Ventures from tirerack.com. These tires are much better than the original Duelers. However, I've noticed they are very sensitive to the crowns in the roads. There's a tendency to pull to the right following the slope of the road's crown. It also seems to pull left on the few left sloping crowns. Let me know how your experience was with the Kumhos.
Has anybody had any problems with these stock tires? We have a hyundai 2007 and it has 25000miles and we have to replace all four tires do to wear on the inside and outside of the tire. A wheel alighment has been done by the dealer back in July of 2007.
not really impressed with the dueler - vibration/road noise makes you feel like the tire is under or over inflated when it's not - mine have almost 40k on them and all the tires are excessively worn on the inside - i rotate every 6-8k miles - closer to 8k on the last 2 rotations - i will most likely have to replace them all on the next scheduled rotation if they even make it that far - i also need new brakes already! how often do you rotate? sounds like the angle of the tire caster/camber was changed on the alignment and they just wear fast OR you may have had them underinflated....
I rotate the tires about the same and all work is done by the dealer. It really bothers me, because I always take care of the cars. I had a 1996 Ford explorer and Goodyear tires-Wrangler and they lasted 55000 miles and replaced them with same until 146000 miles. The brakes I make sure the dealer cleans them because of the long winters and salt. The other thing that bothers us, is we live in the mountains and it does not have the Umph! on the hills.
Well ... it could be worse. We got even less use out of our set of stock tires.
We primarily use our Santa Fe for city/local driving, with occasional long-distance highway trips thrown in. We only got about 24K out of the Bridgestones before they showed significant tread wear. We probably should have rotated the tires more frequently, but I am not sure it would have made much of a difference.
We had a consistent wear pattern all around. The tires simply wore out. Unimpressive tread life.
The snow has already started falling here in Denver, and I'll be darned if I am going to drive up I-70 into the Rocky Mountains for a ski trip on a set of all-season tires that are on their last legs.
So I ordered replacements this past weekend. Based on this thread, and based on the feedback I have seen on TireRack.com, I purchased the Kumhos. I've owned Kumho tires before, and have been reasonably happy with them. We'll see how they perform.
tirerack.com is great - i've searched for better deals and cannot find them - and the site is one of the most comprehensive with ratings and reviews and comparisons. also the variety of known name brands is extensive - i just got some tires from them 255/55 18 - THEY FIT! and they cost less than the odball 235/60 18 - i got some sport truck tires so they're a little loud - just put them on so i have to break them in and see how they do over time - the oem tires only lasted 40k miles so we'll see how these hold up...
Update: I did replace just the one tire, which had a puncture in the sidewall (steel rod) and therefore could not be plugged. The ruined tire was replaced with a new Bridgestone Dueller 235-60-18 to match the originals. That was at 35,000 miles.
Now, at 55,000 miles, the balance of the original tires are ready to be replaced. I think 55,000 miles is reasonable for new car stock tire life.
No adverse affect to the AWD drive train has been experienced.
I have been happy with the performance and service life of the original tires, so I will now install 4 new Bridgestone Dueller tires.
I am very happy to have deferred the 4 tire replacement for 20,000 miles for the cost of 1 new tire.
Don't think you would notice anything right away unless the difference between tires was very drastic. However just like you wouldn't consistently run your engine 1qt short of oil even though you probably wouldn't notice anything adverse- I wouldn't make it a practice to have tires of different diameters on the awd vehicle. Undue wear and tear would precede a catastrophic breakdown. Some cars can take a lot of abuse before they let you know something that should not have been done was done. Hopefully it none the worse for wear.
From the research I did, if this was a Subaru I would have replaced all 4 tires because they specify no greater than 2/32" difference in tread depth.
However, Hyundai and other manufacturers have different AWD systems and less stringent, or no, information.
Since Hyundai provides no guidance (or warnings), I decided to replace only 1 tire to take advantage of the remaining life of the other three tires to save $$.
However, here are the cost calculations for the two different scenarios:
1. What I did: Replace 1 tire at 35,000 miles @ $200, then replace all tires at 55,000 mi @ $800, which I now know will have to be replaced again at 110,000 miles. Total cost of $1,000 for 110,000 miles.
2. Replace all 4 tires at 35,000 miles @ $800. Based on the now known 55,000 miles lifespan, these would be replaced again at 90,000 miles. To get to 110,000 miles so we can compare apples with apples, the cost of the additional 20,000 miles would be $800/55,000 x20,000 = $290. So the total cost to 110,000 miles in this case is $1090.
I think you are right.
If I had known then that my insurance premium to insure that I would not have a problem with the AWD system was the $90 difference, I think I would have paid it happily and replaced all 4 tires.
Hopefully, I have saved $90 with no ill effects, but who knows?
If I had known then what I know now, I probably would not be the person I am now.
GOSH! $200 per tire?! do some research there to find a better tire than OEM and save some money! tirerack.com is the best - over the years i try to look elsewhere but they always have the best deals and you can compare them to the OEM to see what is better/worse...
If you are concerned about the difference in tread depth, you can get the new tire shaved to more closely match the other three tires. Since I have a Subaru, that's probably what I would do if I ruined a tire and still had plenty of life left in the other tires.
Tire Rack shaves tires if your local shop can't do it.
I live in Brockville, Ontario, Canada and we do not have access to Tire Rack in Canada. We also have fewer manufacturer and model choices in the 235-60-18 size.
Driving to Watertown New York to buy a set of 4 tires seems attractive at first. However, when you calculate the 22% difference between the Canadian and US dollar, I would have to find a tire at $164 installed, balanced and including taxes to equal the $200 Canadian price here.
Once you add the cost (time and money) of the trip to Watertown crossing the boarder twice, and lying at the boarder on the return trip when asked "did you purchase or receive anything in the United States" (I don't know what the duty is on tires purchased in the States but I believe there is one), and the loss of any warranty, it just seems simpler to buy locally.
The article on the Tire Rack site about replacing tires on 4WD/AWD was very useful.
oops! didn't know you were in Canada... well - at least go with a tire that has a better rating than the OEM bridgestones - and changing the size may offer a less expensive tire... tirerack is good for research - then you can find what you need up north...
Some places will "trim" your tires. Basically cut off the tread. Or, find out what rear wheel spins easiest.. install tire and smoke them a few times ! These newer AWD aren't like the old Jeep 4WD systems. There is lots of give. I would put any single newer tire up front. More give up there as there is a 40/60 transfer. Or is it the other way around ? ?
Nokian WR G2 I think are the new ones I had Nokian on my pilot and drove it in blizzard conditions even high int mountains of Colorado. replaced them with Bridgestone HL and it has been wight knuckle drive in storms.very un happy with Bridgestone tires we have just purchased a new Santa Fe GlS and the Bridgestone on the are not so hot the next will be Nokian :shades:
Hello, jcwsbltd, I am looking at these posts because I have a GLS I want to put aftermarket wheels on. your calculations are interesting on downsizing to 16" wheels, which I have. You have not considered the tires on these rims. The 16" have 70 aspect ratio tires and the 18" have 60 aspect ratio. The outside diameter between these two tire sizes is virtually identical. Tire rotation speed will be the same.
sohocanada, I shopped for the Santa Fe for awhile and checked out wheel sizes, ride comfort, road noise, handling etc with several dealers. They were all consistent on saying the higher the sidewall the more comfort and quiet, while the lower the sidewall, the more handling but more harshness too. There is simply more rubber on the sidewall to cushion and insulate the road from the wheel rim. The 16" wheel with 70 aspect ratio is the same size outside diameter as the 18" with 60 aspect ratio but has a lot more rubber between the wheel and the road. you have to make the choice, max comfort, or max style.
My '08 LTD has about 35k and it is time to replace the OEM Duellers (unfortunately I have the 18" rims) . I am looking at either the TOYO Open Country H/T or the Kumho Road Venture APT KL51. They seem to be the best deal based on ratings, tread wear and price. Wondering if anyone has replaced their tires and has any recommendations, or any words of caution.
Tire pressure drops about 1 lb for every 10 degrees F the temperature drops.
As far as the correct pressure to run, the sticker on the door pillar is king. I'm sure you all remember the Ford Explorer- Firestone(Bridgestone) lawsuit.
If your low tire pressure light comes on (looks like an explanation point), it means one or more of your tires is more than 3lbs off. If it's low, driving the car, which causes the air in the tire to warm and expand, may cause the light to go off.
If the light that says "TPMS" comes on, that means the control module has lost communication with one or more of the pressure-sensors which live inside the tires.
I got 4 Alloy Hyundai Santa Fe rims (from a Limited model and the owner got some after market new Alloy rims and sold the Hyundai 18" Alloy rims to me). I am having 235/70/R16 tires right now with the steel rims, should I just get 235/60/R18 tires for the 18" Alloy one and have them installed? Any thing I need pay attention to?
The 235/70/R16 Tires are excessively loud and the wear on the inside is a problem. The alignment has been checked and the inflation is verified by my mechanic ever few weeks as we put 3,000 miles for oil changes. This is nuts!
Comments
We are located in Ontario - it's just like BC but without the ocean, mountains, fresh air, great skiing...
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks for the suggestion.
I checked archives in that discussion and did not find anything, but I will post there and try my luck.
Audi says the tire tread depth must be within 4/32" of each other. I meet this restriction.
Porsche Cayenne requires the tire tread to be within 30% of each other on same axle I would be over that limit at 40%.
Subaru has a system that sends power to all wheels all of the time and requires not more than 1/4" difference in the circumference of any of the 4 tires. This translates to no more than 1.25/32" of an inch difference in tread depth. I don't see how anyone meets this strict a tolerance with 4 matched tires over their lifetime.
If I understand correctly, the Hyundai electronic AWD system runs in FWD until slippage is detected in the front wheels. That would not occur at this time of year. I have placed the new tire on the rear axle which is freewheeling.
The new tire has 4/32" more tread depth than the existing. That results in about 3/4" difference in the tire circumference, so the new tire will rotate about 6 times less than the existing over a mile. I think there must be at least that much variation in rotation of 4 identical tires over a mile of cornering.
Given all of this, I am hoping for the best.
I for one, would just go ahead and replace all 4 tires, as you will otherwise, always have one tire with a different level of wear from the other 3. Or at the very least, get 2 new tires to keep the wear level constant on the same axle.
I own a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe, I bought it new with all season tires. I just recently moved to north Brampton and I'm wondering if all seasons are going to cut it this year. Should I spend the money and get winter tires and if so where would I get the best price?
Thanks
Artisan1
I live in Barrie, and I don't believe all season tires ever cut it in the winter. My wife just purchased a 2008 SF this summer, and I just purchased a winter tire and rim package for it. It's a Limited, so it had 18" rims - these would be very expensive, so I went down to 16" rims and tires. I ended up purchasing Firestone Winterforce UV tires in a 235/70R16 size with steel rims from Active Green + Ross. I shopped around for weeks, but could not beat their price. Selection isn't great in that size, so you will be limited. The Michelin Latitude X-Ice would have been my first choice, but these would be have cost nearly $300 more for the set.
Good luck!
I have my santa fe scheduled for the winter maintenance pkg with the dealer for the 6th of Nov. I was thinking they may have winter tires there and could install them at the shop, but I guess I would be paying an arm and a leg from them.
Thanks
Thanks for the information.
My wife has a 2007 GLS AWD (Brockville Onatario) and we are just about to get winter tires as well.
Are you saying that the Firestone tires are traditional snow tires, eg. standard rubber compound with aggressive tread pattern?
Another option is to put the base model tire size on which is a P235/70R16. Our winter tire package special price is $1300.00 plus tax and installation. Total price with everything is $1520.98. For this price you will get 4 alloy mags with 4 Bridgestone blizzak dmz-3 tires. We only have one set of tires left and my supplier of this tire tells me they are sold out from Bridgestone. The other option is off brand tire (Cooper) which I have found a small number left in stock. This package would cost $1238.48 total price installed.
I told him to forget about it.
As you might have guessed, I'm female and I have no intention of spending anymore than 500.00 for the set and installation. Tires are over priced...don't they all come off a cookie cutter assembly line?
Seeing as I work from my home most of the time, I'll pick non-blizzard and non-ice days to go anywhere and stick with my all seasons.
Thanks All for your comments.
It has the stock duelers on it. I live in Minnesota, and have never been stuck with
these tires. I don't like the duelers, and will not buy another set of them. They get around good in the snow , but make too much noise on dry pavement. When its time, they will be replaced with goodrich tires.
Pi x 16 dia = 50.272"
Pi x 18 dia = 56.556"
The actual tire outer edge circumference is bigger, so the speed difference is greater, but to illustrate a point, it is sufficient. I can't be bothered to go out and measure tires.
The rims are a very tight fit, they do not leave much clearance between the brake caliper and the rim. But....it should work well to keep a build up of debris clear as well as protect the ever popular siezeing rear brake calipers on the rear of our Santas.
Your service rep or dealer to whom you have spoken doesnt seem to have a clue about his product....these MSG boards are perfect for us DIY type people.
Happy trails everyone.
Let me know how your experience was with the Kumhos.
We have a hyundai 2007 and it has 25000miles and we have to replace all four tires
do to wear on the inside and outside of the tire.
A wheel alighment has been done by the dealer back in July of 2007.
Garvey Hyundai-Plattsburgh,ny
how often do you rotate? sounds like the angle of the tire caster/camber was changed on the alignment and they just wear fast OR you may have had them underinflated....
It really bothers me, because I always take care of the cars.
I had a 1996 Ford explorer and Goodyear tires-Wrangler and they lasted 55000
miles and replaced them with same until 146000 miles.
The brakes I make sure the dealer cleans them because of the long winters and salt.
The other thing that bothers us, is we live in the mountains and it does not have the Umph! on the hills.
We primarily use our Santa Fe for city/local driving, with occasional long-distance highway trips thrown in. We only got about 24K out of the Bridgestones before they showed significant tread wear. We probably should have rotated the tires more frequently, but I am not sure it would have made much of a difference.
We had a consistent wear pattern all around. The tires simply wore out. Unimpressive tread life.
The snow has already started falling here in Denver, and I'll be darned if I am going to drive up I-70 into the Rocky Mountains for a ski trip on a set of all-season tires that are on their last legs.
So I ordered replacements this past weekend. Based on this thread, and based on the feedback I have seen on TireRack.com, I purchased the Kumhos. I've owned Kumho tires before, and have been reasonably happy with them. We'll see how they perform.
Now, at 55,000 miles, the balance of the original tires are ready to be replaced. I think 55,000 miles is reasonable for new car stock tire life.
No adverse affect to the AWD drive train has been experienced.
I have been happy with the performance and service life of the original tires, so I will now install 4 new Bridgestone Dueller tires.
I am very happy to have deferred the 4 tire replacement for 20,000 miles for the cost of 1 new tire.
Thanks for your interest and advise.
Regards,
Jonathan
Thanks for the additional information.
From the research I did, if this was a Subaru I would have replaced all 4 tires because they specify no greater than 2/32" difference in tread depth.
However, Hyundai and other manufacturers have different AWD systems and less stringent, or no, information.
Since Hyundai provides no guidance (or warnings), I decided to replace only 1 tire to take advantage of the remaining life of the other three tires to save $$.
However, here are the cost calculations for the two different scenarios:
1. What I did: Replace 1 tire at 35,000 miles @ $200, then replace all tires at 55,000 mi @ $800, which I now know will have to be replaced again at 110,000 miles. Total cost of $1,000 for 110,000 miles.
2. Replace all 4 tires at 35,000 miles @ $800. Based on the now known 55,000 miles lifespan, these would be replaced again at 90,000 miles. To get to 110,000 miles so we can compare apples with apples, the cost of the additional 20,000 miles would be $800/55,000 x20,000 = $290. So the total cost to 110,000 miles in this case is $1090.
I think you are right.
If I had known then that my insurance premium to insure that I would not have a problem with the AWD system was the $90 difference, I think I would have paid it happily and replaced all 4 tires.
Hopefully, I have saved $90 with no ill effects, but who knows?
If I had known then what I know now, I probably would not be the person I am now.
Thanks again.
Regards,
Jonathan
Tire Rack shaves tires if your local shop can't do it.
There's a good FAQ at that link about matching tires on 4WD/AWD vehicles.
Driving to Watertown New York to buy a set of 4 tires seems attractive at first. However, when you calculate the 22% difference between the Canadian and US dollar, I would have to find a tire at $164 installed, balanced and including taxes to equal the $200 Canadian price here.
Once you add the cost (time and money) of the trip to Watertown crossing the boarder twice, and lying at the boarder on the return trip when asked "did you purchase or receive anything in the United States" (I don't know what the duty is on tires purchased in the States but I believe there is one), and the loss of any warranty, it just seems simpler to buy locally.
The article on the Tire Rack site about replacing tires on 4WD/AWD was very useful.
Thanks everyone.
Or, find out what rear wheel spins easiest.. install tire and smoke them a few times !
These newer AWD aren't like the old Jeep 4WD systems. There is lots of give.
I would put any single newer tire up front. More give up there as there is a 40/60 transfer. Or is it the other way around ? ?
I had Nokian on my pilot and drove it in blizzard conditions even high int mountains of Colorado. replaced them with Bridgestone HL and it has been wight knuckle drive in storms.very un happy with Bridgestone tires
we have just purchased a new Santa Fe GlS and the Bridgestone on the are not so hot
the next will be Nokian :shades:
I am looking at these posts because I have a GLS I want to put aftermarket wheels on. your calculations are interesting on downsizing to 16" wheels, which I have. You have not considered the tires on these rims. The 16" have 70 aspect ratio tires and the 18" have 60 aspect ratio. The outside diameter between these two tire sizes is virtually identical. Tire rotation speed will be the same.
I shopped for the Santa Fe for awhile and checked out wheel sizes, ride comfort, road noise, handling etc with several dealers. They were all consistent on saying the higher the sidewall the more comfort and quiet, while the lower the sidewall, the more handling but more harshness too. There is simply more rubber on the sidewall to cushion and insulate the road from the wheel rim. The 16" wheel with 70 aspect ratio is the same size outside diameter as the 18" with 60 aspect ratio but has a lot more rubber between the wheel and the road. you have to make the choice, max comfort, or max style.
Thanks.
As far as the correct pressure to run, the sticker on the door pillar is king. I'm sure you all remember the Ford Explorer- Firestone(Bridgestone) lawsuit.
If your low tire pressure light comes on (looks like an explanation point), it means one or more of your tires is more than 3lbs off. If it's low, driving the car, which causes the air in the tire to warm and expand, may cause the light to go off.
If the light that says "TPMS" comes on, that means the control module has lost communication with one or more of the pressure-sensors which live inside the tires.
Thanks!
Thanks,
ZL