97 Dakota running problems Please Help !!!!!
I have a 97 Dakota that is having issues. When i drive down the road it acts like it isnt getting enoughgas. When i stop at a traffic light it will go dead and takes about 20 mins b4 it wll crank back up? Where do i start to try and figure this out. I am poor and cant afford to take it to a mechanic. Thanx Tommy
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You need to do some diagnostic work first, there are many things that could cause this symptom.
First, how many miles on this vehicle, what engine and what transmission do you have?
Regards,
Dusty
First, you need to determine if you have spark and fuel.
Remove a spark plug from the cylinder head. Reconnect the plug wire to the spark plug and place the spark plug on the engine at a location that allows you to view the electrode. Have someone crank the engine and observe if a spark jumps across the electrode. If it does, you have secondary ignition power. If not, we know where to start troubleshooting.
If you've verified that you have spark, perform the following:
1. Disconnect the air clearner housing from the top of the Throttle Body Assembly. You must be able to see the throttle plate.
2. With an assistant holding the gas pedal to the floor, pour approximately one tablespoon full of gasoline into the throttle body.
3. Crank the engine for approximately 15 seconds.
If the engine attempted to start (then stalled) you likely have a fuel delivery problem.
Let me know how this worked out. I will monitor for a response until 11:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time.
Regards,
Dusty
Dusty
*PCV valve - A sticking PCV will cause this problem, and will be especially noticeable in colder weather. If the PCV valve plunger sticks in the closed position, the manifold air flow is effectively reduced. This has the same effect as closing the throttle plate, hence, the engine essentially stalls. In colder weather moisture build up in the motor oil will gravitate to the PCV. In freezing temperatures the moisture around the PCV valve plunger solidifies and cuts off air flow. Look for any signs of moisture in the oil and change it out if necessary.
On a vehicle that old and mileage, I would also suggest checking the vacuum hose that goes to the PCV valve. I've seen these get gummed up to the point they no longer flow much vacuum.
*Vacuum hoses - Vehicles of this age typically by now have dry, brittle, and cracked vacuum hoses and causing leaks. This may not show up much at higher RPMS or road speeds...although it usually causes slight hesitation or surging...but will definitely cause idling problems.
*Sticking Idle Speed Motor - On Throttlebody equiped vehicles, the idle speed is regulated by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) based on various inputs (sensors) in the system. The PCM then modulates the Idle Speed Motor to open a plunger-type valve that allows more or less air into the manifold to adjust the idle speed. This area is prone to carbon and gum deposits, especially with cheaper fuels. The Idle Speed Motor should be checked and cleaned, especially if you've never done is on this truck before. The Idle Speed Motor is easily removed on Dodge truck motors.
*Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - This is essentially a non-linear potentiometer and can cause idling problems if the voltage is interupted across the terminals. This is caused by a corroded or dirty contact in the sensor. You can check this with a volt-ohm meter, preferably an analog type, by measuring DC resistance across the tap (slider) contact and rotating the TPS shaft. Erratic meter movement indicates a dirty or scratchy resistor. However, because of the miles, I would just change it.
*General engine tune - Of course, things like worn spark plugs, old spark plug wires, carbon tracked distributor cap and rotor, clogged air filter, will have a deleterious effect on engine performance and idle quality that may not have been noticeable in the warmer weather.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
coolant temperature sensor etc. There is a 1999 van having the same symptoms and the dealership has not figured it out. When it is cold, it runs well for 10-12 minutes and then bucks and misfires so much it feels like it is ruining the truck. When it is warm, it runs like a top. I need help too Dusty! I have about 155,000 miles on my standard transmission Dakota. Chrysler wants to start throwing wiring harnesses at the van and if it was that would not the vehicle have ongoing problems in any weather? I did not mention my mechanic also put a new computer on the truck to test with all the same results!
coolant temperature sensor etc. There is a 1999 van having the same symptoms and the dealership has not figured it out. When it is cold, it runs well for 10-12 minutes and then bucks and misfires so much it feels like it is ruining the truck. When it is warm, it runs like a top. I need help too Dusty! I have about 155,000 miles on my standard transmission Dakota. Chrysler wants to start throwing wiring harnesses at the van and if it was that would not the vehicle have ongoing problems in any weather? I did not mention my mechanic also put a new computer on the truck to test with all the same results! I also have the 3.9 Magnum engine. Any help is greatly appreciated. It is nice to have all the new parts, but if it still runs lousy I'm just going broke and keeping my mechanic busy!
I'd also consider a sticking or weak PCV valve or a vacuum leak. They can cause idle problems, too. Around here '99s of any make or model start to suffer from brittle and split rubber hoses.
Other possibilities include a defective Coolant Temperature Sensor (sending an intermittent signal to the PCM), or bad connections to the PCM or IAC motor, or a bad MAP sensor.
Regards,
Dusty
good luck
watch your wiring harness when in there!
it's sually by the bell-housing or on it. you can try to clean it, because grease build-up can block the magnetic signal. this might save you money and hassle.
the part has a square end on it, wipe that off good and then try it.
On level roads, everything seems to work just fine, however, when I travel up a hill, it slows down and doesnt get over 20 miles an hour. It acts like it has a governor system on it. The transmission seems to be shifting just fine and it doesnt seem to be slipping either.
My sister who is a mechanic says that it could be the passing gear...Would appreciate any ideas.
tfw3
sensors will differ from engine to engine type. If it starts and runs rough when
cold but not after warming up, it could be (possibly) due to one of these:
Idle air motor needs cleaning.
IAT sensor (Intake Air Temp ) sensor
Engine coolant sensor not providing correct information to PCM
injectors need cleaning?
My son has a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport and when we bought it the idol was high. Well we bought a new battery and the idol went to normal. Now it will shut off going down the road or at a stop sing or red light. Sometimes if you wait 5 mins it will crank right back up but most of the time you have to wait a long time until the motor completely cools off then it will crank up and drive fine. My son always has problems in the evening time coming home from work. About 2 or 3 times a week this happens it will not jump off. The engine will turn over but will not crank like the battery is dead but it has a new battery. We have replaced the battery again the crankshaft sensor and another sensor I can't remember that one. The problem was fine for about 2 weeks now the same thing is happening again. Can someone PLEASE HELP ME TO KEEP WASTING SO MUCH MONEY. [Email removed]
What was wrong with someone else's truck, no matter how similar it may sound has little to no bearing with the problem you are having with yours. It has taken a long time to get regular responders who would post guesses to realize that all they were really likely to do is lead someone to do exactly what you have done, toss parts with the very likely outcome of not solving the problem.
To figure out what is going on with your truck the first thing a technician needs is to know is under what operating conditions is the problem likely to occur and what conditions is it not likely to happen. Then while it is happening the technician needs to prove if you are losing spark, fuel (injection and supply) or both. The things you have replaced in the past are meaningless at this time. New (newer) doesn't mean good, and it's a trap to assume either way, good or bad. The only thing that matters is whether it is working correctly or not when the problem happens and that means it needs to be measured. You need a technician who will take a disciplined, repeatable approach towards proving what is working compared to what is not when the problem occurs.
So at this point, how likely is the problem to occur if I would drive your vehicle? Does it matter if it is started from cold, or if it has been run shut down and then restarted? How far, or how long would I need to drive it for it to happen? Does it stall on the highway or only during slower operation? (idling?)How long will it be dead before it restarts? Does it make any difference if it is hot outside? Cold? Raining?