Dodge Dakota problem

kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota, 4.7 V8 4x4. The other day I purchased 3/4 of a tank of 91 octane gasoline in order to completely fill my tank. After filling the tank I drove home and the truck sat there overnight. Before and after the fill up the truck ran excellent, however, the next moring driving away from my home the engine began spit , sputter and misfire and bog down when I gave it gas. I believe the gasoline I purchased had water in it, so I had a bottle of heay duty HEET hoping it was a water problem but it appeared not to help.
Using my key I was abale to get the code of PO331 on the odometer, however, from the list of codes I have there is no such code number.
Please advise as to what you believe the problem might be and comments on the code munber.
Thanks,
kfritz

Comments

  • dervin1dervin1 Member Posts: 9
    Can you replace this? or can I bypass this and put on a shorter serpentine drivebelt? My air has been out since I hit a deer and the condensor is shot, so can I bypass the AC and put on a shorter serpentine belt and bypass the the clutch bearing pulley on the AC? Is there a part for the 3.9L for a 98 Dakota Sport extended cab w/o air that will fit it? Looking for the best scenario and the least expensive.
    Thanks,
    Dave
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Is this a High Output 4.7 motor?

    P0331 is a "bad knock sensor circuit 2" problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    It states V8/Magnum. And, yes it was knocking and than the engine light came on.
    It was been 2 days since I put the HEET into the tank and I have not been driving the truck, however, today, 12/15, I started the engine and drove a short distance and it continues to run fough. I could not get the code to reappear, so I disconnected the NEG battery terminal to start over.
    Hope this info helps.
    Sincerely,
    Kfritz
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    It states V8/Magnum. And, yes it was knocking and than the engine light came on.
    It was been 2 days since I put the HEET into the tank and I have not been driving the truck, however, today, 12/15, I started the engine and drove a short distance and it continues to run rough. I could not get the code to reappear, so I disconnected the NEG battery terminal to start over.
    Hope this info helps.
    Sincerely,
    Kfritz
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, the trouble code indicates that the Knock Sensor circuit is inoperative.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    Dear Dusty:
    Thanks for your reply of 12/15/08. I hope you received my reply to your question about the engine. Yesterday I took the truck to a Dodge dealer to be fixed. Today, 12/16/08, they said it was fixed and I could pick it up. They told me the problem was a faulty coil on #1 cylinder and the spark plug, both were replaced, total $175.00. As I was leaving the service department the truck knocked and sputtered and the engine light came back on. I returned immediately and they started working on it again. This time the said they were getting several different codes and they determined it was a faulty computer and ALL of my spark plugs were worn and need replaced. However, they said the computer was under a 8 year/80,000 mile warranty, therefore no cost to me.
    I feel very uneasy about what is going on and I would appreciate your thinking on this matter.
    Thanks.
    Sincerely,
    KFritz
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Frankly, I think replacing the coil was the result of them finding an extraneous code or chasing a hunch. I don't see a connection of a weak or failed coil to a knocking problem and a P0331 code.

    Without knowing what the other codes were, and the fact that the code you retrieved was a "Knock Sensor Circuit" code, a failed PCM could easily explain this problem. They should have a DRB3 diagnostic tool and that should be more than adequate in determining a faulty PCM. They're going to be very sure the PCM is bad before charging this out on warranty, because returned PCMs are one of those components tested on being received at Chrysler. If its not bad the dealership will be charged back for it.

    Since the PCM is under warranty, I think you're probably okay letting them proceed and then evaluate whether the problem was resolved.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    Dear Dusty,
    The dealer called and said the truck was done, I ampicking it up tomarrow, 12/18/08. It will be interesting to see if it's fixed. I have a very bad feeling about this dealer, for one, if my spark plugs needed replacing why did they not do that the first time the worked on it? I have a feeling it isa way to correct additional money from me. The very first time I was at this dealer was on Thursday, 12/11/08, I needed addition keys for the truck and I purchased 1 key fob and 1 key that would unlock and start the truck @ a cost of $200. The serviceman said it would take 10 to 15 minutes to program then at additional $45. However, it took them over an hour to get the job done, do you think that they could have done error that caused my original problem and effected the computer?
    Would appreciate any thinking on this matter.
    Thanks.
    Sincerely,
    KFritz
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I do not think the remote lock reprograming and a faulty PCM are connected at all. The controller for the Remote Door Lock feature is located in the Central Timer Module.

    Good Luck. Let us know how everything worked out.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    Dear Dusty:
    Guess what? Pick up the truck this morning, 12/18/08, and as I was driving away the engine came on and it knocked, spitted and sputtered. Return to the dealer, this rassing hell. I called the Dodge factory Customer Service (Bombay Pizza) and are to contact the dealer. Called the owner of the dealer, he did return my phone (surprise). Filled compalaint with BBB ( waste of time). The Service department called this afternoon, they said it was a new problem and he gave me a bunch of double talk, I told him they can the F"" truck. Stoped payment on my Visa and I believe Monday I will give this matter over to my attorney. Thank god I have another care ( or maybe I should not be thank and get a horse and buggy.
    Thanks for your comments on the key programing.
    Sincerely,
    KFritz
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm really sorry to hear this. It's begining to sound like they cannot duplicate the problem and/or they are shotgunning. It is also begining to sound like they don't have a good electrical diagnostic person there.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    Dear Dusty:
    Here, in Fort Wayne, IN, we were hit with a bad ice storm and my home was without electricity, heat, water and phone on Friday morning. Needed the vehicle charger the my cell phone which was in my truck and, of course, my truck was at the Dodge Service Department. As we were approaching the Dodge Service Department, to get my charge, we saw an service employee in my truck spinning around in the iced lot and race down the street. Of course, no management was and had no idea what was going on. Once again called the owner of the dealership, which I don't believe I will hear from to report this unjustifiable action. However, I did speak with the "Service Manager" that afternoon and his cavalier attitude, was as
    before. And of course my truck engine light remains on.
    Is there any other place I can file a complaint about this business, so far it appears no one much gives a [non-permissible content removed] about this matter.
    Sincerely,
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'd wait to hear from the owner of the dealership first, but then I would place a formal written complaint to Chrysler and the Fort Wayne, Indiana Better Business Bureau. If that doesn't get a more sympathetic response, try a local television station.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • kfritzkfritz Member Posts: 8
    Dear Dusty:
    Thanks for the advise. Have files a complaint with Dodge/Chrysler and BBB. The owner appears to be avoiding me. He is must always unavailable or out of town. He is aware of the past problems and the most recent and he called me from"out of town" today left a message" Your truck is done and can be picked up", he never said anything about his manager or the incident with my truck. I am not pick the truck until he is there and then I will test drive it with him or his "Service Manager".
    If the engine light comes on again on this test drive I will take it to a auto electrical speaclist and sue him for the charges.
    Thanks.
    P.S. Do all 2005 Dodge dakotas have these problems? It would so, from all I read at this web site. This is my first and last Dodge product.
    Sincerely,
    KFritz
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No, not all Dakotas have these problems. Remember you are reading a web site that exists specifically to address problems. My Dakota has run perfectly for seven years and 114,000 miles, and I cannot think of anyone I know personally that has owned or does currently own a Dakota with any serious problems. In fact, I go so far as to say that the Dakota is on par with any pick-up out there with respect to serious problems. See if your local Better Business lists the past lemon law transactions. You might be surprised!

    Dusty
  • wolfer1wolfer1 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry if this has already been discussed. I searched and found nothing. I am new here, this is my 3rd dakota and probably my last. What idiot engineer would design a 2 wd vehicle using sealed front wheel bearings? Sealed bearings have a very very limited life and a very very limited application and that is not a motor vehicle.

    With that said - Has anyone taken a front hub apart, got the Timkin bearing, race and seal numbers and rebuilt a front hub?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I have to disagree with you on this one. Wheel bearings are prone to failures caused by heat, loss of lubricant, and/or contamination from dirt and moisture. A sealed bearing is generally better and retaining its lubricant and keeping moisture and dirt out of the bearing assembly. Their heat capacity is determined by design.

    In my experience Dakotas are rarely in need of front wheel bearings, even at high mileage. Mine at 114,000 miles are fine, and two other 120,00 plus mile Dakotas I'm familiar with are still sporting the originals as well. My son's old Dakota got to 371,000 on the originals.

    I use to repack the fronts on my Chevies every 25,000 miles and I still would lose one before 100,000 miles anyway.

    If you've had a lot of brake/rotor overheating then I could understand front wheel bearing failures.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Have to agree with Dusty on this. I have over 80K miles on my 2000 Dak and have spent plenty of time on the beach as well as going through a lot of standing water without any bearing problems. Additionally, I have had several other vehicles with well over 100K miles, all with sealed bearings and never had a problem.

    Ron
  • turboamxturboamx Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 97 four wheel drive dakota that has started stumbling and backfiring through the throttle body on the road, idles five and starts ok. Check engine light is on now have not checked the code. temp and pressure ok Thanks for your thoughs My 95 dakota has almost 238.000 miles I rebuilt the tranny at 231,000
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Possibilities:

    *Bad ignition components (distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs)

    *Bad ignition coil

    *Bad reluctor in the distributor

    *Defective crankshaft position sensor

    *Vacuum leak; defective intake manifold gasket

    *Defective catalytic converter

    *Low fuel pressure

    *Bad PCM

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • gbettsgbetts Member Posts: 4
    I agree. I recently had problems with extreme overheating of front brake and now bearing is growling. Can it be pressed out of hub and replaced or do I have to shell out for the hub assembly? 99 4x4 V6 XCab 100K miles
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I honestly don't know. I know that the bearing and hub are serviced as an assembly by Chrysler, AutoZone and Advance Auto. I suspect that someone makes a replacement bearing for it, but you'll need a press.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • gbettsgbetts Member Posts: 4
    I now know it's a sealed unit. Advanced Auto will, howevever, sell you a gear puller (for the hub) and you simply return it for credit when your done (Nice). The most difficult part of the replacement is cracking the 1.5" retaining nut. Thanks again for you response.
  • gbettsgbetts Member Posts: 4
    By the way, you can opt for the "Economy" Hub $75.00 or premium for around $150.00. (Sanel Auto Parts). Most places I contacted marked up the "Economy" to around $125.00. Premium up to $190.00. Good going Sanel!
  • bdoucetbdoucet Member Posts: 5
    I am having the same problem. Using SKF brg/hub assemblies, I have replaced both sides twice in the last year. Had a 4 wheel alignment done...tech said nothing unordinary. No brake drag. I would think that SKF would be OE supplier or at least a top line replacement...am I missing something?
    2003 QC 4X4 3.9L
    Thanks
    Brian
  • dodgedriver02dodgedriver02 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 dodge dakota quad cab. My question is how do i take my tail light lenses off and clean them. For some reason when i bought it there was dirt caked inside the lenses and the tail lights are hard to see. :(
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Lower the tailgate and look for two Torx-head screws on the side of the tailgate janb on the box. Remove these screws. Standing at the rear of the vehicle, pull the tail lamp assembly outwards from the body.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ra3154ra3154 Member Posts: 2
    help pleaseee.dodge dakato 3.9L automatic truck . the battery keeps dying. not sure if its the pcm because one day the battery volts are normal..the next its back down to 10 and the car just runs off the batery..i have replaced the alternator and battery..the alternator connections seem to be good. the alternator guy told me my truck year and model are known for there voltage regulators going out. i guess im not sure if thats it because the cars battery power is working fine one day and not the next..this last time though might be it..not sure where to go from here..buy a pcm or ?? thanks
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm not aware of PCMs being a general problem on any year Dakota.

    What year is the truck?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ra3154ra3154 Member Posts: 2
    oh sorry..didnt notice..its a 1998 dakota..the alternator guy might of just been saying that but yeah he said 94-99s there voltage regulators go out alot..
  • kburks60kburks60 Member Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    Dodge dakota 2002 v8, Was running fine, took my son to the hospital where the truck set for 3 hours....5 miles from the hospital the truck shut off while stopped at a red light, 105 degrees out, while attempting to restatrt the RPM maxxed out, the fuel injectors kicked on dumping gas yet the truck didn't start...after sitting for 6 hours truck started ran 60 miles home but when entered drive shut down and began acting up again, it sat overnight and started just fine in the morning. When the truck warms up, the fuel pump kicks in the injectors start dumping but the truck does not start. and Rpm max out without the truck started.Noone in panama City, Florida that I've talked to has had this problem. Where should I start?
  • kburks60kburks60 Member Posts: 3
    I replaced the crankshaft senor and the truck started, then the check engine light came on it shut off, I restarted the truck engine light still on let it idle for a while light went out, truck started several times with no problem and no codes, test drove the truck about 40 miles with no problem, left for work got less than 2 miles truck shut off while going 40mph, check engine light on but no codes show...I guess my next step is to check wiring?I don't really want to put 600.00 minto a computer if I don't need it, I'm a single parent and need my truck to get to work.
  • sfrensfren Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Dakota with 125,000 miles. After installing new tires I noticed a noise coming from the front of the vehicle only when bearing to the right when traveling down the road. As long as you are going straight or to the left no noise. When going toward the right as in a curve you hear a whine that sounds like it is coming from the tires. Had front end alignment but still the same whine or howl.I removed the Right front tire because it sounds as though it is coming from that area and the bearing hub seems to have a little play ( back and forth) in it. Is this normal or could this be the problem. If not does anyone have any idea what it might be. Thanks for any help in advance.
  • papadsgirlspapadsgirls Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    our 2002 dakota has a panic alarm constantly going off! We have disconnected the horn so we can drive it, but we can't get it to stop! It does this just when we crank the truck! Didn't know the truck had the panic alarm since we didn't get any remotes when we bought it! Any ideas to get this to shut off! I have already tried the key in the door, tried to disconnect the battery, pulled fuses, and nothing has stopped it!
  • skrapper69skrapper69 Member Posts: 9
    Ok I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota heres the problem I am having it will crank but will not start but a very few times it will start but not start again but when it dont wanna start none of the gauges will work and the millage will flash and say NO BUS? Here are some of the things I have tried so far bought new battery terminals And rented a code reader from auto zone and no codes where shown Then I Turned the ignition off. Pressed and held the odometer/trip button while turning igntion to "on" without turning it to the "start" position. And Continued to held the button for 10 seconds...until I seen the odometer window display "CHEC". If there was a problem, a three digit code will appear. And these 3 different codes came up 920, 921 What else can I do HELP!!!!!!
  • darkfyre07darkfyre07 Member Posts: 12
    I totally agree with you there... I had to replace both of my front wheel bearings only because other parts put strain on them. The driver's side went because of a bad brake rotor and caliper that more or less tore it apart, and the passenger went because of a bad lower ball joint that angled the tire adversely and caused a lot of heat, and my truck has over 180000 miles on it
  • darkfyre07darkfyre07 Member Posts: 12
    I'm not a car expert, but I am a computer expert, and when the most basic operation that runs through the on board computer won't work, I'd have to say that might or might not be the problem. try going to a scrapyard, taking a computer out of a matching dakota, and seeing if that fixes anything. I had a 1990 Toyota Camry that got hit by lightning a few times and the thing acted like it had multiple personality disorder sometimes, running too rich or too lean, telling me I had multiple different lights and trouble codes and then just shutting off, and that is what my problem was.
  • ericcc1ericcc1 Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday I did some maintenance on my 2005 Dakota including pulling the battery cables off and cleaning them up. When I put the battery cables back on and started the truck it started perfect. But I noticed the headlights were on even though the switch was off. Then I noticed the digital odometer was out, the oil pressure and temp gauges were out, the radio was out, no dash lights. The turn signals don't work, the hazards don't work and worst of all I can not put the truck in gear because the brake switch isn't working. There was absolutely no symptoms of trouble prior to the battery cables being cleaned and being put back on. I figured I would have to re tune the radio stations. This is a 2 WD 4 door quad cab Dakota with about 95K mileage. Any ideas? I checked all the fuses but they are all good.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    "NO BUS" means a loss of communication with the computer. The other problems you mention are also symptoms of a failing computer.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • bobbyg22bobbyg22 Member Posts: 3
    have u tried a regular code reader auto zone does it for nothing u might a mfg code
  • kencabrerakencabrera Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone.

    I hope I've posted this in the correct forum section. If not, please forgive me. I couldn't find the troubleshooting/problems section.

    Anyways, I own a 2005 Dodge Dakota (salvage title, I bought it from a car mechanic off of craigslist), of which the headlight (driver side) has gotten foggy. It's certainly not as transparent as the passenger side light. At first I wasn't sure why one was foggy and the other wasn't, but then I took a closer look at the foggy light and noticed a small crack on the outside casing. I believe this crack has allowed moisture to enter the light. I've heard of people restoring their headlights with special DIY kits, but I've decided to take the route of simply replacing the light with an aftermarket light from an online store. I found two sites that I particularly liked, but I'm unsure of whether or not they are legitimate businesses. Furthermore, I don't want to fall prey to a scam. Has anyone purchased from either of these sites and can verify that they are a legitimate business? The following parts match the oem number of the one I need. Thanks in advance.

    http://www.topgearautoparts.com/product/16461/Buy-discount-2005-DODGE-DAKOTA-HEA- D-LIGHT-LH-DRIVER-W/O-BLACK-BEZEL-%28OEM-55077607AB%29-for-your-autos-.html
    or
    http://www.autolightcenter.com/dodge/dakota/headlights.html#MTI2MzY
  • timmy_flytimmy_fly Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 Dakota(4.7L V8, auto, 4x4, crewcab, flueflex, 51500km) that I am taking to the dealership on monday to have the drivers door looked at as whenever I hit a hard bump driving in town I started to hear that the door wasn't closing all the way however when I lock my doors it stays locked just really notice it when I hit a hard bump in the road. Still have bumper to bumper on her for another 8000+km but was just wondering if it is going to be an on going issue or just wear and tear. I had also gone and read up on other trucks with the issue and tried the methods that were mentioned such as have the outside handle as it was open then turn the latch and still is doing it, truck also is in a parkaid as it has been close to -50 here in north western Canada for about a week or 2 as well while i was trying that method out I noticed that the 3 L key bolts were loose so i just tightened them by hand just incase the dealership wouldn't cover it if it had been tampered with.

    Also unrelated I have been hearing a bit of a knocking sound from the front wheels while driving and checked for ice but it still happens in the warmer weather. I had heard the same type of noise before on my 91 Ford Explorer and my 92 Explorer which were both 4x4 as well any ideas what that might be whether its the breaks or something like that or something more such as issues from the 4x4 or anything.

    I know I had just said and was asking for quite a bit but if anyone as an answer or any idea to what may have caused these issues please let me know!!!!

    Lets hope its not to much lol, but from what I was reading on here haven't read anything or anyone having much 2010 Dakota issues so I'm hoping thats a good sign as its a nice little truck.
  • ssmmmeptssmmmept Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2010 dodge Dakota we just got it about four months ago and right away we had trouble with the steering when we turn to the right it catches and have to pull hard to get it to release have had it in shop three times the answer from them is to drive it anyway but I'm afraid something is going to break does anyone maybe have an idea what it could be

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