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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    It is fine to put the car into first with the clutch in at any speed, or it should be. With the clutch in it shouldn't matter. Watch your speed for when you let the clutch out however, as you don't want to overrev it, especially if you are giving it gas.
  • pat56pat56 Posts: 11
    Hi, Gang...

    My 2000 LSi hatchback is still humming along.

    I love the looks I get at the gas station,

    when I fill up for $12, and tell everyone,

    "Well, that will do me for another two weeks."


    If you folks want to see a good Metro site,

    check out . It's the

    "Metro Endurance Racing League". I hope the

    site is still up. I haven't been there in a

    while, but it was excellent, the last time I

    was there.

    Keep 'em running!

    The MetroGnome

  • pat56pat56 Posts: 11
    Cancel that MERL site! Mistubishi has
    taken over that domain name.

    Lo siento...

    The MetroGnome
  • Hpulley4,
    I saw on another Metro message board that the type of gear oil might impact how the synchros function. I'm going to put the right oil in this weekend and see if my problem goes away. It is an easier solution than open-heart on the tranny.

    The rest of you,
    For those of you who did not understand the first time, the original text was this:
    My 1997 Metro LSI/5spd/3cyl has an annoying trait of not letting me shift into first gear when I am rolling to a stop. I almost have to come to a complete stop before I can get it into first. Is this a design feature of the post-1995 Metro, or do I have a damaged transaxle?

    In this scenario, the clutch pedal is to the floor prior to braking to a stop. I'm not downshifting into first, nor am I letting off the clutch until I am completely stopped, ready to accelerate.

    Your two cents are worth less if you don't own a post 1995 Metro.

    Has anyone made the conversion (on a post-1995 Metro) from inset sealed beam headlights with cheap plastic bezels to wrap-around glass lens with rear-entry replacement bulbs? Is it painless?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Yes, me not owning a Metro does make my comments a little less worthwhile, but I was just letting you know that this is a common trait on a number of manual transmission cars and I felt there was no reason for you to spend a lot of money to tear into a tranny that is probably just fine, especially since it's an annoyance and not an actual problem. Unless your tranny is making rattling noises when in gear, grinds everytime you try to shift, refuses to engage certain gears in all conditions, or your clutch is gone, there is nothing wrong with your tranny. Unless of course you just like throwing money away. When I was referring to shifting into first gear, I also meant with the clutch to the floor (you do have to push the clutch down to shift into gear, no?), not downshifting (though in actuality, you are literally downshifting from a higher gear to a lower one when slowing down, whether you release the clutch or not). I was just explaining that I felt the reason most trannys don't like to be shifted into first while coasting is a safety measure to keep people from accidentally downshifting into 1st gear and letting off the clutch. So, I was simply trying to help you in letting you know the Metro isn't the only car with this "hard to shift into 1st gear unless almost completely stopped, with clutch to the floor" annoyance. In other words, this problem is not unique to your car. You decide whether this makes you feel any better.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    is just a temporary solution. It sometimes allows stuff to slip which would previously grind but eventually even the lightest synthetic may not work, or so I've heard -- I've never had to use it myself. Still, if it improves things for a while it might be worth it.

    My Metro makes a rattling noise sometimes while in gear but I think it is just my cat'verter (still) falling apart. Heatshield fell off last year. Something else fell off it last week. Don't want to put more money into my darned exhaust right now... ugh.

    Overall the car is pretty noisy these days, getting a bit annoying which is too bad as it still drives really well, no loss of oil, etc. Not worth it to me to put a whole new set of shocks, springs and exhaust into it though.
  • I am being driven crazy, which is a terrible waste because I'm within walking distance. I've tried for almost a year to solve the recurring 'check engine' light mystery. I clear the memory, then drive about 50 miles and get the friendly red light. Stored code says it is the MAT sensor, which I have replaced twice. Can't find the source of the problem. Clues anyone?

    Also, anyone know which 13" rims will fit my 91 Metro? Can't help but think the bigger tires would help my lousy 32 mpg in my daily 100 plus mile commute. Gods, how I miss my 5-speed!
  • I just bought a used 1996 geo metro. I only have two problems: They disabled the cruise control and the driver door lock is very stiff and I can't get in using the key. Anyone else have this problem?
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    I've had sticky locks at various points and some graphite or similar has always worked. In winter, lock deicer is sometimes required.

    No cruise here, sorry.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    In accordance with our Town Hall member agreement, let's please stick to discussing vehicles rather than making hostile comments towards other participants here. It's okay to take issue with someone's comment..., we just ask that you use civil/friendly debate when doing so. Thanks for your participation! ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
  • emckelvyemckelvy Posts: 5
    My previous Metro ('91 3-cyl cpe) had a tranny that worked like a hot knife thru butter. With 143K on the clock it shifted way better than my '95, which 'only' had 108K on it when I bought it last year. The 2nd gear synchros on the '95 are going; it doesn't like to downshift and if I hesitate upshifting it wants to act up. I usually just double-clutch when downshifting and it goes in OK. I have read in other Metro/Swift forums that the tranny synchros can be weak. However, first gear on both the old and new Metro's slipped in without problems. But remember that even with the clutch in, if you downshift to first at high speeds you're putting an awful strain on the synchros. But going into first as you are slowing to a stop shouldn't be a big deal. I have done this on every manual trans vehicle I have ever owned, foreign or domestic, and never had trouble. Am going to try the synthetic motor oil trick to see if my '95 likes it.

    Regarding wheels, '95's and up all have 13" wheels, and didn't the convertibles come with them also? All Metro's and Swifts have the 4-1/2" bolt circle. Any other FWD offset wheel, 5" to 6" width with the 4-1/2" bolt circle will probably fit.

    I bought some 13" mags off ebay and put Sears Michelin 165-70/13 tires on. They are of a 5-1/2" width and that in addition to the wider, lower profile tires improves the handling, gives it a bit of a gearing edge with the smaller tire, and wet grip is phenominal. It goes around corners at 50 MPH that would have had the '91 heeling over like a sailboat at 40.

    This makes (2) different vehicles I have owned with Michelins with good results. And the wider tires and wheels make it look less like a Rollerskate and more like a 'real' car!

    Anyway, nice to see some activity at this site; it was a little dead for a while. There are some other Metro sites at the Yahoo! clubs/groups area, you might want to do a search and check them out. A few are quite active with a lot of good technical advice.
  • Does anyone know if the G10-Late version of the 3 cylinder engine is compatible with the post 1995 Metro? I can get a used japanese G10-L along with the same vintage 5spd tranny from several suppliers in Los Angeles. The cost is roughly $250 for the long block and $200 for the tranny.

    I'm just not sure that the cosmetic design changes in the post-1995-Metro also included power train changes as well. The engine suppliers claim that they are compatible.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    How long did everyone's clutches last? I've only got 90000km on mine but it is starting to grab kind of low -- I don't know how much time I've got left. I love to downshift so it is probably my fault but I'm wondering how long others' have lasted.
  • benebbeneb Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1993 Geo-metro Convertible with a 127000 miles on it for my's very clean. the only problem seems to be at low end....when I start off it coughs and seems powerless...but at higher rpm it's fine...anyone got any ideas...thanks..
  • koh1koh1 Posts: 2
    Check the EGR valve for operation. I bet it is stuck open and you are recirculating too much exhaust during idle.
  • wgrwgr Posts: 127
    I own a Geo Metro Lsi. Does anyone know what it should cost to install a new automatic transmission ? I have been told it is very expensive - like over $3,500. Is this possible ?
  • jubileerunjubileerun Posts: 18
    My Metro won't start! I can push it down the road and pop the clutch, but the starter motor is on strike! It's not the starter, nor does it seem to be the switch under the clutch pedal. Any ideas Metro fans?? I measured the voltage going to the positive terminal of the starter, it seems to track with the battery voltage whether the key was turned or not.
  • duffymoonduffymoon Posts: 2
    I'm new to this board, and was hoping to wax nostalgic about my (many) Sprint/Metro vehicles. My first was a 1988 Turbo Sprint which I absolutely loved. 5-speed, two-door, red. Had that cool "Intercooler" intake port on the little hood. Nice looking interior. Anyone out there own one of these? My current vehicle is a 1994 4-door (not my choice) 5-speed with 120k on the odometer. Now that I'm about to trade it in on a mini-van (believe it or not...i'm a family guy now), I'm starting to miss the sucker already.
  • hpulley4hpulley4 Posts: 591
    I traded it in for a MINI Cooper! I just love small cars with good handling and good gas mileage. One friend remarked that I traded in my old car for an even smaller one! In fact, the Cooper is 4" wider than the Metro, but it is 6-7" shorter (4" longer wheelbase on the Cooper though).

    Anyone need an official '95 Metro service manual? Anyone need grape touch-up paint? If so, let me know at
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    and thanks for sharing your Sprint/Metro experience with us. Good luck with your next purchase. See you around Town Hall. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
  • duffymoonduffymoon Posts: 2
    I've got the same "check engine" light problem. I too had the MAT sensor replaced and within a week that darn light was back on. It goes on for a few hundered miles, then off for a few hundred. It used to concern me, but now, after almost two years of this, I just don't worry about it. Drive hasn't been affected. The down side to owning a metro in my opinion is that all kinds of goofy stuff goes wrong with them but the drivetrain is apparently invincible. So, even though the black rubber stripping came out of my driver's side door, wrapping around the window and causing the crank to strip completely, and so now I have to roll up and down the window using vise-grips; even though the air/heat blower has always only worked on low, and even then only sometimes; even though the catalytic converter and/or heat shield is rattling like a demon; I just can't justify a different vehicle (i'm fluctuating on trading it in) when this thing is so darn EASY to own and operate.
  • stunessstuness Posts: 3
    My 2000 Metro is getting ready to go over 100K, and I've had no problems so far. I had been getting a little grinding while downshifting into third, but I replaced the Manual Transmission fluid and tightened up the clutch to the loose end of the specs and it seems to do fine now. I just travelled 521 miles on my last tank of gas (I was babying it to see how far I could get).

    With a car payment less than half of my friend's payment, and fuel economy double theirs, I love my little Metro.
  • kmo2kmo2 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone! I just wanted to say that I recently purchased a 1991 Geo Metro Lsi, 2-door, automatic in April 2002 and so far I really like this peppy little car. It gets me from point A to B in no time flat and the gas mileage is incredible! I can fill up with only $10 and it lasts for two weeks! The car had 98k miles on it when I purchased it and everything works except the A/C. I hope to have it for a long time. Its the perfect car for my 6-year-old daughter and I to get around in. At first, I really didn't want a Metro because I heard some negative things about Metros but I am glad that I purchased it. So far the only things that I've had to replace are the tires (which are hard to find). I think that my next car will be a Metro also. Too bad GM doesn't make them anymore. The only thing that I don't like is that on windy days here in Michigan it seems as though my car will fly away!
  • hbranchhbranch Posts: 1
    Hi, I recently purchased a 98 4 cyl automatic Firefly from an elderly lady. It had 10000 km when I purchased it two months ago and it now has 12000 km I really like it - it has lots of pep, very easy on gas, and great for parking in the city. My only problem is that it often stalls when stopped at a light or when switching from park to reverse or drive. I ready in the Lemon Aid guide that these cars are known for chronic stalling.

    Has anyone had/have a similar problem? Were you able to repair it? Your comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    and sorry to hear about your vehicle stalling problem. In addition to the feedback here, you may also want to try asking (copy/paste) your question on our Maintenance & Repair message board.

    Btw, some people here may not be aware that the Pontiac Firefly is the Canadian version of the Chevy/Geo Metro, so I've gone ahead and added that name to the title here. Hope this is helpful.

    Good luck, and please return here to keep us posted on your situation.

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • Hello all, I currently drive a 2001 Saturn SL1 sedan which I lease... my lease does not expire anytime soon but I am looking for a "more affordable" car. Preferablly a used metro.

    I was searching and found a 1997 Geo Metro with 45,000 orig miles, air/ pwr steering/ for $ 2995.00 at a name brand dealer. Is this a good price? It seemed great to me...

    I know they have a lack of power, but are they really reliable? I am looking to save money towards a house/ hence the Metro route over buying my lease (which would cost me $7500.00. How do they compare to the Lano's, Accent? Are those bad cars in terms of relibility? Also, in terms of crash protection, is there any with the metro? Any info is appreciated...
  • inuvikinuvik OregonPosts: 134
    Having owned 3 Metro's I would never own one with a automatic. The automatic is only a 3 speed with no overdrive and performance and mileage really suffer. If the car is a manual tranmission then I think your target price is more in the $2000-$2300 range. Just my 2 cents.
  • It was a manual, thankx for the info
  • I have a friend who is looking at 2 cars....a 1991 Geo Metro, 42K mis, one owner and all service records available...and a 1992 VW Jetta, 103K mis, current owner has only had it 2 months, no service history. Personally, I think it is a no-brainer in favor of the Metro...but she is not so sure. Any opinions?
  • inuvikinuvik OregonPosts: 134
    I would take the Metro any day over the Jetta with that many miles. Just make sure it is only 42K and not 142K. The Metro's did not have 6 digit odometers that year and it could be on it's second time around.
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