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Honda CR-V Brakes
Andrea1215
Member Posts: 1
Hi, I have just 27.7K miles on my 2004 CRV, drive a mix of about 50/50 highway and city driving (and do not "ride" my brakes) but had to replace both the front and back brakes today. I inquired about the low milage and the dealer told me many CRVs are coming in with brake replacements at about 30K miles. I did it as they were over 90% worn but it seems wrong to me. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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Also, my tires got changed about 22K.
Going to have a Honda dealer look at it next week. Sounds like maybe the rotors need to be turned? In any case, are brakes covered under warranty or are there some instances where they would not be?
Thanks.
Going to have a Honda dealer look at it next week. Sounds like maybe the rotors need to be turned? In any case, are brakes covered under warranty or are there some instances where they would not be?
Does the Warranty statement in the Owner's Manual say they are covered?
Sounds like I'm subject to the dealer's mood for the day. No new car I've ever owned has needed brake work after 24,000 miles. When I called the service dept. of this dealer and set up appt. I mentioned the problem and asked if covered and they indicated it depended and they would have to look at the issue. They indicated brakes were often an area of gray when talking about brake issues.
Thanks.
Yes, you are correct that haivng the rotors turned under warranty is up to the dealer and the corporate to figure out. They may or they may not cover it.
I would suggest looking into the cause of rotors warpage: un-even torque applied to lug nuts. Most mechanics can't be bothered with using a torque wrench to set the lug nuts to 80 ft. lbs of torque in a criss cross pattern. This prevents the uneven pressure on the rotors, and protects against rotors warping on brake application, when they heat up. But, mechanics are often paid bonuses if they beat the "book rate" when performing a repair. So, they use impact guns to set 20 lug nuts in place in 20 seconds, rather than using proper tool and spend 2 minutes on them.
Turning rotors will only solve the problem temporariliy. Once warped, even properly torqued rotors will evnetually warp again. But, if one is dillingent in making sure the mechanics are using torque wrenches, not torque sticks when installing wheels, one can have warp free brakes for years.
I don't trust anyone, so, if I have any work done on the vehicle by anyone other than my self. I re-torque the lig nunts when I get home. 95% of the time they are on too tight and uneven.
If you can prove that it was the dealership that torqued the lug nuts improperly, you can get them to pay for the new rotors.
Good luck.
As I'm getting familar with this "new" vehicle I'm noticing another brake problem. I believe it is coming from the rear as I get a low rumbling kind of noise when I apply the brakes......more noticeable when slowing at higher speeds vs. stop and go at slower speeds. The dealer said they did their 30 point inspection of the vehicle while I had it in for the front brake work and everything checked out. I didn't bring the rear brake noise issue up because I hadn't noticed it initially and was more focused on the more apparent problem coming from the front rotors.
I had initially brought up the rear brake noise on the phone with a service technician but he made it sound like a non issue. Again I've never owned a car that inherently makes any noise when the brakes are applied unless something needs attention.
Any ideas? Thanks again.
I don't know if Gen 3 uses the same rear brake design. If it does, than the brakes should be services after each winter. The calipers have to slide off, and the pins lubricated with Molykote-77. Takes about 10 minutes in the driveway per wheel.
I am planning to have the front rotors re-surfaced because when braking the steering vibrates.
My needed advise.
Is it better to just replace the front rotors or have it re-surfaced?
I will replace also the front and rear brake pads in this process.
I would appreciate your suggestions.
Thanks.
Percy
If you get the same noise by test-driving another 07 CRV then it is 'normal'. I would be 'abnormal' if I trust his words.
Vehicle test drive, especially a used vehicle, should include the walk around with thorough inspection/observation of all visible components prior to getting into the vehicle.
If before driving the rear rotors had rust, and after test dirve they did not, then the noise you heard was the brake pads scraping the rust off the rotors, which is common in humid climates.
The sound started at about 19,000 miles. The dealer checked them at the 20K service interval, and didn't find anything wrong. The tires give no indication of abnormal wear. After the 20K service, on the drive home through the countryside, the noise was still there, but a little less noticeable.
The car gets about 50/50 highway/local use. I'd say it's driven gently and is maintained per schedule. However, it does spend CT winters in the driveway, and I've occasionally spotted rust on the rotors.
I'm keeping an eye on it.
Goodyear found a rust spot on one rotor that was about the size of a brake pad and was deep enough to be possibly unfixable. Goodyear said it may cause the pads to wear more quickly but probably wouldn't affect performance. I had the rotors replaced anyway, because Saabgirl has a little of the princess-and-the-pea in her makeup, and I didn't want to be back again next week, not did I I want to hear squeals from the passenger seat every time I step on the brake.
But here's the info I want to share with yinz: the Goodyear manager said Honda didn't "see" the problem, because they don't consider it a prroblem. Many manufacturers, he said, use "crappy" rotors to save weight. Yes, they'll cosmetically deteriorate, espec in New England winters, but since it doesn't affect braking performance they only regard it as a cosmetic problem. Since my CR-V sleeps outside in the winter, the condition might have been more evident than it would be in a garaged car.
By the way I only got 20K out of the OE Goodrich traction A tires. Although they weren't down to the wear bars, they were getting close and small cracks were showing up in the sidewalls. And they were so noisy on all but the smoothest road surface that they had become really annoying.
Saabgirl is happy now, so all is well.
Our 2003 LX Manual had pads and rotors replaced at 20K(Aug 05) miles under warranty and at 30K ( Sep 06) the rear pads/rotors were replaced also under warranty.
Now at about 60K we're doing the service and may have to do the brakes again.
Can I just do the pads are rotors necessary at the same time?
PS; someone here mentioned the rumbling/scraping noise form the rear wheels. I looked at this with the mechanic at the 55k oil change and its the result of a shroud rubbing on the disc. The noise on ours has gone away and it doesn't effedt brake performance.">
Brian
Keeping repair records and threatening lemon law can sometimes work wonders, but brakes are wear items and are usually excluded in basic warranties.