Hi, I just bought a 93 Eurovan but it does not have a roof rack or the base carrier. Can I put your roof rack on the drain? Can you maybe send me some pictures? My email is: Kleinerottibaby@yahoo.de. I live in Virginia Beach, Zip 23455. How much is the shipping? Thanks.
I have been using the Optima D34/78 deep cycle battery in my 1993 Eurovan, that has about the same height restriction under the driver seat. The battery has both top and side posts. For my first Optima battery, I cut off the top posts to make it fit, but then the side posts would not work until I had them soldered. For my second battery, I laid the battery on its side and used the top posts. However, the battery is a little wide on its side and I had to design a bracket to hold it. Also, the plastic panel with the DC outlet behind the battery does not fit tightly and sticks out about 1/4 inch. It is not very noticeable. There is another Optima deep cycle battery that has less power and is 7.6" high instead of 7.8", that may fit upright under the seat without cutting off the top posts.
Any takers on your roof rack? If I can solve my coil/Hall Sender stalling problem on my '93, I'll be interested in your roof rack. Lemme know if it's still available--and send some Karma on this weekend project on my distributor! :-) Peace, Jack
We purchased a 1999 Eurovan GLS July 2006 with 98k miles for just under $10k. We love the simple, efficient design and the interior room. It's worked great for our family of four young kids and provides a lot of multipurpose utility, especially as our only vehicle.
It now has 125k on it and the maintenance/repair costs are getting out of hand. A summary of the last year: - Coolant leak due to thermostat housing - $167 - Major brake work - $354 - Secondary air pump + EGR solonoid - $1,233 - Rebuilt auto transmission - $3,900 (+ towing costs) - Ignition switch - $160 - Fuse block - $700 (pending our go-ahead)
We'd really like to keep it, but are finding it harder to justify and can't help but wonder what's next. In the past we drove Hondas & Volvos to 220k+ miles with very low repair costs.
Are these costs normal for Eurovans in this mileage range? What else can we expect to fail? Any insight, especially from high milege owners would be appreciated.
I'm the owner of a 2002 Weekender with 180'000km on it. I truly understand your worries. It seams you had a lot of repairs.
I had some repairs as well. - Lower Ball Joints left + right -Wheel bearings front left + right -Transmission mount
I advise you to do as much as possible yourself, and find a local Mechanic. I mind the VW Dealerships, they're very expensive (110 CAD/hour) and do a [non-permissible content removed] job. They just try to make you come back and back and back. Not very impressed! I found a very good Mechanic and he is cheap too. I paid 980 CAD for all the above repairs together. You can order parts from the Internet. Much cheaper than at a dealership. Most parts are VW OEM parts they just have the original manufactures logo on the box and not the VW. As an example, I bought an Ignition switch for 8 bucks on the internet and changed it my self. You can find instructions on many websites on the internet.
Just an Example: Secondary Air Pump List Price $836.66 Europarts Price $419.88
Well look at the bright side, you have replaced the Transmission, so that should be good for a while, something I'm worried about on mine.
Yes, VW Eurovans are a wonderful vehicle in many ways but you must have a fat wallet to keep them on the road. How did you find a rebuilt trans for $3,900? My local dealer wants $6,000! I bought a 1999 Eurovan camper last year but only use it as a motor home on the open road. I think they are too expensive to maintain as a daily driver.
Thanks for your reply. I've done many of my own repairs in the past, but available time is harder to come by these days. Plus this is currently our only set of wheels, so it can't be down for extended time while I figure things out.
Our local dealer sounds similar to yours. However, when our transmission went out I had them quote the work along with a local mech. They were ~$2k higher so I had the van towed to the local shop. The dealer later called back with a revised quote much closer to the local shop but we'd already made a decision.
I've gotten a few parts online & definitely see the advantage. It's amazing the help that can be found online too with the right search.
Been told the fuse block needs replaced to get our heating/cooling fans working again. Part cost is most of the $700.
We did a fair amount of research before having the transmission rebuilt. Our local mechanic did the install, but the rebuild was done at German Transaxle in Bend, OR (http://german-transaxle.com/).
Our local dealer was closer to the $6k you mention. Not a chance.
Any idea how fat our wallet is going to need to be to over the next 20-30k miles? We're really trying to decide whether to opt for a less costly ride and our confidence in the Eurovan is shaky.
Just purchased a 2002 EuroVan/Winnebago at mileage just under 30K. At 30065 the MIL - Light came on. No noticable sounds or performance changes in driving. I understand that this light is a general indicator and that further diagnosis will be needed, but does the light automatically come on a set milage intervals indicating routine service?
I am looking at a 97 Euro Winnebego Conversion with 90,000 miles. The van appears to be in excellent shape. What are the issues I should eb concerned with?
90,000 miles is not too bad for a 1997. You should expect no engine problems for quite some time. But it is definitely in the danger zone for transmission replacement which costs $6,000. Unfortunately, I know of no way to check a transmission for wear other than if it is acting funny. Make sure you don't pay much more than $20,000 for the vehicle because it is very likely you will spend some serious money on that transmission in the next 30,000-40,000 miles.
90,000 miles is not too bad for a 1997. You should expect no engine problems for quite some time. But it is definitely in the danger zone for transmission replacement which costs $6,000. Unfortunately, I know of no way to check a transmission for wear other than if it is acting funny. Make sure you don't pay much more than $20,000 for the vehicle because it is very likely you will spend some serious money on that transmission in the next 30,000-40,000 miles.
Who makes a hard top for the EuroVan? I have a fantstic one on my 1986Vanagon. I'm looking into modernizing to a 2000 to a 2003 EuroVan and I don't see any with hard top conversions. We don't need any other conversion, just the top added after a hole is cut in the roof. Do they exist? I'm in Orange County, California south of Los Angeles.
Where can I find dimensions of the EuroVan and Vanagon? I want to compare so I can see if I'm loosing or gaining space.
Sorry I didn't get the message in last time. Does anyone know how to untangle the shower hose that is mounted inside the back left panel of a (for example) 2000 EuroVan? This has been a handy feature for me and it is tangled now internally so I can't pull the hose out more than a few inches. Most panels seem to give me access to electrical system only. thanks
It's a 2003 GLC with less than 41K miles and an extended 100K mile warranty. Excellent condition. I am asking 17K OBO. Absolutely beautiful piece of machinery. Great place to call home if someone wants to save money, be free of landlords and mortgages. Live in it and shower at your local gym.
The hose probably got twisted. Can you gently try twisting it in one direction or another? That might help loosen it up. I call Chris at GoWesty for advice. He manages the service department there and the phone number for the service department is on www.gowesty.com website. Good luck! John
Sorry about using the forum as my personal classifieds. If the person still has interest in my VW van, please contact me directly at raraseal@aol.com. Thanks
I bought mine from Mobility RV which is the authorized distributor of Winnebago Industries parts. Their phone number is 1-800-933-7742. Good luck. John
I just joined this discussion group to ask for some help.
I purchased new, and still own, a 1993 VW EuroVan CL. It has the inline five-cylinder gas engine, with a five-speed manual transmission. The EuroVan now has about 120,000 miles on it. I say, "about," because the odometer went out a while ago, and this is an educated guess at the actual mileage.
I won't bore you with all the details. but the FIFTH clutch is about to go. It has chattered for quite some time, and now the throw-out bearing is making a hideous noise. It is not going to last much longer.
So, I live in San Francisco. I need a good, qualified mechanic who really knows the EuroVan to install a new clutch.
Anybody know someone? San Francisco? Marin County? Sonoma County? Or, maybe, South - San Mateo County? Santa Clara County? East Bay?
2001 Eurovan (76K miles MOL .) Automatic transmission acts like it is slipping in 1st gear, and sometimes jerks when beginning to move. Also, car will roll back when on slight hill at stoplight. Local dealer says $7600 for a rebuilt transmission. From this forum, it looks like there may be an electrical problem possibility also, so replacing the transmission may not be the right fix. 1. Any suggestions? 2. Any recommendations on how to find a reliable independent mechanic in the Denver, CO area? Thanks.
The automatic transmissions in the Eurovans is the weakest part. They can go out at any time and rarely last more than 120,000 miles. I suggest you call some wrecking yards for used ones.
I have a 1993 Eurovan with a 5-speed manual transmission. When Iput it on reverse it makes a funny noise... other gears are ok..Any ideas what that could be? Thanks Alain
I have a newer Eurovan that runs great as long as the outside temps are above 20F or so. If I take the van out, warm up the inside, park it and then the outside temp drops into the teens or lower the van will not start. Get a click, click noise - some noise from under the passenger seat. All other electronic items seem to work o.k. - lights, radio, dash lights, etc. Have been to the dealer twice. Last winter they said it was some computer thing, not under warranty, that would cost over $900.00. This winter we have a different answer - "You need to drive the van more and the problem will take care of itself." Don't get me started on the dealer, they haven't got a clue as to what the problem is. There has been some discussion about ingnitions, key programming, and other possible problems on the forum. Has anyone else had this problem? HELP needed in Alaska. :sick:
Did you ever get a list of recommended mechanics for your transmission? I am having the same issue with my 1993 and would love to hear about any reccommendations your found.
I never received a response from this forum. However, after a long process, I got into the hands of Tom Cebollero (Owner) of Metric Motors at 1480 Howard Street in San Francisco. Tom has owned Metric Motors for nearly three years, and I cannot imagine a business-owner who is more eager to please the customer. They did great work. I am absolutely confident that if there are any problems with the job they did, they will back it up. I was around there long enough to notice that Tom seems to have many satisfied customers. I certainly am one of them.
I had posted the phone number, but got "busted" for so doing. So, just look 'em up in the phone book.
I have a 2002 Eurovan GL and needed a roof rack a few years back. We've owned it new and it has 140k miles on it. I bought Thule for it. It has plates on the ends of the rack which lay on the body and at the end of those plates is a "hooked" edge that hooks onto an edge above the windows. I use it twice a year and it has never come off. I take them off after each trip covering 1,600 miles roundtrip, not counting miles once were at our destination.
I had that problem only recently. Our '02 that we bought new, now has 140k on it with no breakdowns. The button was frozen. We were in Chicago for a week during Christmas and sat for about 2 days till we loaded it up to drive home(700 miles south). A blowdrier freed it up after several minutes of warming it up and it was above freezing at the time. Since then, it has frozen up twice over night and take 5 minutes or so with a blowdrier inside the van blowing on the shifter and up-and-down the shaft. I did nothing outside. I drove it up on ramps to look underneath to see what there was down there and saw an enclosed box, at about the location where the shifter was mounted to the floor, with what looked like a cable coming out and headed towards the left front. So, it appeared that the mechanism is sealed up down below and explains why the blowdrier worked. My only guess is we spilled liquid down along the shifter along the trip. The problem is disasembling it to see what, if anything, is in there freezing. :confuse:
My reply is 2 years old, but it's about the same problem. I took a blowdrier to get mine going. I looked under the vehicle and found nothing exposed....which explained why the blowdrier worked(two more times). It's only happened beginning this past Christmas(2008) up in Chicago and then twice in Tulsa. I thought maybe we spilled liquid down along the shaft along our trip, but I'm afraid to try disassembling the shifter to see. Have you had any response or answer to your question over these past two years? :confuse:
Where do they drill the small hole? I looked underneath and it looks like a sealed box with a cable coming out of it about where the shifter appears to be mounted to the floor. My guess is that the drivers spill drinks. :confuse:
HI. If your rack is still available, I have a question or 2. (1) Will if fit a 2002 Eurovan, and (2) What would you consider to be a reasonable price? Thanks Larry
A friend recently reported that the engine light on my 2003 VW eurovan stays on when started. It is parked for 6 months while I am in Italy. I had all fluids checked before leaving and there in no oil leak. Does anyone have any suggestions or know why this is happening? Thanks
My engine light came on and went off a week later. It may need a tuneup or maybe you weren't using Premium gasoline. You may have to take it on the road at highway speeds for a short trip to clean up the valves.
My engine light in my 2001 comes on once in a while for no apparent reason. After I drive for 200-300 miles it goes off again. Service people cannot give me an explanation. I understand it has something to do with pollution control.
It could be a loose gas cap. But it could be a very expensive problem that I just experienced with my Eurovan. My check engine light came on and stayed on and it was a tiny vapor leak between the filler neck of gas tank and the gas tank. There was no replacement part available except replacing the entire gas tank. VERY SPENDY!
They gave this line to us as well. Here is what we went through. First we had the engine sumped to check for sludge. Second we changed dealerships because the first one said we needed a new engine. What fixed the problem was the timing chains and engine tensioners. But don't get to excited because the repair bill is still pretty huge. We were lucky and had all of our oil change documentation. They tried the sludge thing on us to say that it wouldn't be covered under warrenty.
It is an electro-magnetic switch connected to your break pedal. It's about a 9.00 part and an easy switch to make. Should take you about 10 minutes in an uncomfortable position. Look under the steering column behind the break pedal mechanism. As you push it in it should engage this switch. Twist it to free it from it's mounted position.
ive got a eurovan the same year and it wont pass emisions either. did u ever fix your problem and if so what was the issue? please contact with further info.... @ williamtravisbrown@yahoo.com thank you very much
Does anyone out there know if the propane connector on the late model Eurovan is universal or is it US specific? Could the van be shipped overseas & used ok? I am looking at a European trip, particularly Germany & France
I'm pretty sure that the connector is US/Canada specific. I'm European and I haven't seen this system before I came to North America. Even worst, each country in Europe has it's own system. The European Union is changing a lot in this matter, but it just need a little bit more time. Go here to see a picture of a gas adaptor set for different European countries. I'm pretty sure you will be able to change this very quickly, as I would assume that the gas connector is threded in to an NPT coupling that's welded to the gas tank. You could go to a camping bus store in Germany or France and get the right connector threaded in to the tank. (probably needs an adaptor from one to the other country though)
Have you thought about the electrical connection? European campsites have usually CEE connectors230V, that wont suit the North American system. The Plug system can be solved, but how about the volt rating?
Comments
I just bought a 93 Eurovan but it does not have a roof rack or the base carrier.
Can I put your roof rack on the drain? Can you maybe send me some pictures?
My email is: Kleinerottibaby@yahoo.de.
I live in Virginia Beach, Zip 23455. How much is the shipping?
Thanks.
Dennis
Peace,
Jack
It now has 125k on it and the maintenance/repair costs are getting out of hand. A summary of the last year:
- Coolant leak due to thermostat housing - $167
- Major brake work - $354
- Secondary air pump + EGR solonoid - $1,233
- Rebuilt auto transmission - $3,900 (+ towing costs)
- Ignition switch - $160
- Fuse block - $700 (pending our go-ahead)
We'd really like to keep it, but are finding it harder to justify and can't help but wonder what's next. In the past we drove Hondas & Volvos to 220k+ miles with very low repair costs.
Are these costs normal for Eurovans in this mileage range? What else can we expect to fail? Any insight, especially from high milege owners would be appreciated.
Thanks -
I had some repairs as well.
- Lower Ball Joints left + right
-Wheel bearings front left + right
-Transmission mount
I advise you to do as much as possible yourself, and find a local Mechanic. I mind the VW Dealerships, they're very expensive (110 CAD/hour) and do a [non-permissible content removed] job. They just try to make you come back and back and back. Not very impressed! I found a very good Mechanic and he is cheap too. I paid 980 CAD for all the above repairs together. You can order parts from the Internet. Much cheaper than at a dealership. Most parts are VW OEM parts they just have the original manufactures logo on the box and not the VW. As an example, I bought an Ignition switch for 8 bucks on the internet and changed it my self. You can find instructions on many websites on the internet.
Just an Example:
Secondary Air Pump
List Price $836.66
Europarts Price $419.88
Well look at the bright side, you have replaced the Transmission, so that should be good for a while, something I'm worried about on mine.
Anyway, isn't there always something with cars?
PS What happened to your fuse box?
Our local dealer sounds similar to yours. However, when our transmission went out I had them quote the work along with a local mech. They were ~$2k higher so I had the van towed to the local shop. The dealer later called back with a revised quote much closer to the local shop but we'd already made a decision.
I've gotten a few parts online & definitely see the advantage. It's amazing the help that can be found online too with the right search.
Been told the fuse block needs replaced to get our heating/cooling fans working again. Part cost is most of the $700.
Our local dealer was closer to the $6k you mention. Not a chance.
Any idea how fat our wallet is going to need to be to over the next 20-30k miles? We're really trying to decide whether to opt for a less costly ride and our confidence in the Eurovan is shaky.
I got a 3rd seat for my Eurovan there. :shades: :shades: :shades:
Where can I find dimensions of the EuroVan and Vanagon? I want to compare so I can see if I'm loosing or gaining space.
What is the ground clearance under the EuroVan?
Thanks for your cooperation.
I just joined this discussion group to ask for some help.
I purchased new, and still own, a 1993 VW EuroVan CL. It has the inline five-cylinder gas engine, with a five-speed manual transmission. The EuroVan now has about 120,000 miles on it. I say, "about," because the odometer went out a while ago, and this is an educated guess at the actual mileage.
I won't bore you with all the details. but the FIFTH clutch is about to go. It has chattered for quite some time, and now the throw-out bearing is making a hideous noise. It is not going to last much longer.
So, I live in San Francisco. I need a good, qualified mechanic who really knows the EuroVan to install a new clutch.
Anybody know someone? San Francisco? Marin County? Sonoma County? Or, maybe, South - San Mateo County? Santa Clara County? East Bay?
Pease advise, and thanks ...
inlinefive
1. Any suggestions? 2. Any recommendations on how to find a reliable independent mechanic in the Denver, CO area? Thanks.
Thanks Alain
Did you ever get a list of recommended mechanics for your transmission? I am having the same issue with my 1993 and would love to hear about any reccommendations your found.
I never received a response from this forum. However, after a long process, I got into the hands of Tom Cebollero (Owner) of Metric Motors at 1480 Howard Street in San Francisco. Tom has owned Metric Motors for nearly three years, and I cannot imagine a business-owner who is more eager to please the customer. They did great work. I am absolutely confident that if there are any problems with the job they did, they will back it up. I was around there long enough to notice that Tom seems to have many satisfied customers. I certainly am one of them.
I had posted the phone number, but got "busted" for so doing. So, just look 'em up in the phone book.
Inlinefive
Chris
(1) Will if fit a 2002 Eurovan, and
(2) What would you consider to be a reasonable price?
Thanks
Larry
@ williamtravisbrown@yahoo.com thank you very much
Thanks
I'm pretty sure you will be able to change this very quickly, as I would assume that the gas connector is threded in to an NPT coupling that's welded to the gas tank. You could go to a camping bus store in Germany or France and get the right connector threaded in to the tank. (probably needs an adaptor from one to the other country though)
Have you thought about the electrical connection? European campsites have usually CEE connectors 230V, that wont suit the North American system. The Plug system can be solved, but how about the volt rating?
It could get pricey to ship your car to Europe...
Good luck...
To get a better idea go here