0-60. on vw GTI (4 banger) '96-98
gduk3
Member Posts: 9
i was wondering whats the 0-60 on a gti 4 banger.
whenever i ask someone, all they would say its
slow... can someone tell me with numbers? also i
read an article that said when the golf GTI 4banger
reaches over 55mph, you have to worry about more
things than just the speed. what did they mean by
that??? i would really appreciate it if some can
help me here. thanks.
whenever i ask someone, all they would say its
slow... can someone tell me with numbers? also i
read an article that said when the golf GTI 4banger
reaches over 55mph, you have to worry about more
things than just the speed. what did they mean by
that??? i would really appreciate it if some can
help me here. thanks.
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Comments
It depends on your age and driving record though.
I'm older and have a clean record - and my VR6
is very economical to insure.... the 4-cyl GTI isn't a "real" GTI, it's a Golf GL with a Fuba antenna, a couple of cosmetic cues, and a GTI badge. They are slow as molasses (9.7 0-60 I believe.. arrgh!).
-Mabe
1995 GTI VR6
i've heard negative stuff about it...is it true?
But the 4 banger is just fine albeit not as powerful! I just sold my '98 after 30k wonderful miles. I don't know if I got lucky with a extra good as-built or the K & N filter helped alot.
True, the VR6's will leave you behind but these 4's are much maligned by boy racers. Set your ego aside and try one. You'll save thousands. If you race all the time on tracks get a real racer. These cars on the road however are quite satisfactory. This from a Saab Aero and SC400 owner. I'll miss it. Especially the 40+MPG road trips with the air on!
The new Golfs averages about 2800lbs!!
There is nothing wrong with the 4 cyl. 115hp engine. It has decent torque and it would work great in a 2400lb Civic but it's just underpowered for the total weight of the car.
If the Golf were to weigh around 2500lbs it would be almost a whole second faster 0-60.. or low 9's. The average I 've seen is 10sec+ now..
Take a 2260lb Civic hatchback with 106hp. 0-60 is 8.7-8.9s. A 2410lb Civic LX sedan w/same HP does it in 9.1-9.5s (I always give the low's & high's that I 've seen).
I 'd say if they 're going to keep the current design and weight they need to up to the motor to put out around 20hp more for it to have decent acceleration.
As far as the turbos go, many manufacturers don't export the turbo versions to the US. US insurance companies charge a heavy premium for turbos and turbos don't usually sell too well in the US. They 've done their market research..
I wish they 'd bring some of those cars over here!
Take the turbo charged Subaru Impreza WRX in Japan, 220hp! The RX7 twin turbo which is still produced over there, etc. etc. Although I think the GTI 150hp version would sell good here. But we get the VR6 (174hp) version so it's not bad.
In Europe they 've had the Civic hatchback with the Integra GSR 170hp and call it VTi. They 've had it for years and comes with a sports suspension.. How come they didn't bring that little 2360lb pocket rocket over here? I can go on & on..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Anyway, I once owned a '66 AMC Rambler that could travel at three and four sevenths the speed of light...well, as long as I didn't roll the windows down that is.
But my current car, an '89 VW Cabriolet, can get up to about 316 mph with the 24 cylinder, 120 valve, 16 liter Behemat engine I stalled under the hood. Well actually it's not exactly under the hood, in fact it's so big compared to the car I had to remove the hood and the fenders and it completely blocks the windshield so I can't even see where I'm going. One time I was doing 210 mph. in a school zone and...well you'll see it in the papers.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
'00 GTI VR6 (tropic orange)
'00 Boxster S (artic silver)
And finally does this chip cause the "check engine light" to come on? and how does it affect reliability (I know your warranty is void)?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The 1.8T usually boosts from 0.5bar to 1 bar turbo pressure (from 7.25 psi to 14.5 psi, I hate this standard system!). It also alters the fuel maps. I don't know about the rev limiter, some chips do, some don't, just depends on what chip you buy. It does not cause the "check engine light" to come on. Reliability is no problem, most chip manufacturers give warranty on the engine for about 3 years or 100.000 km (yes, the metric system rules). You even won't loose factory warranty, because it's the law that the manufacturer has to prove that it is the chip that caused the part (whatever part may break down) to fail.
Kubbo
Reliability shouldn't be a problem, as Audi does something very similar in the 180 HP and 225 Hp versions of the TT, but your warranty is going out the window, unless the service manager is your brother or something.
Also, I'm pretty sure your boost specs are a little off. I don't think the KO3 turbo can handle 14-15 lbs of boost, and I know it's not efficient at that level. The chip bumps boost up to around .75-.8 BAR around 11-12 psi. If you want to replace the KO3 with a KO4 you can run 1 bar or a little over, 14-15 psi. Last time I checked the cost of a KO4 kit was around 1900 bucks.
I also don't know of any chip manufacturer that would warranty the engine like that when the chip is increasing boost. On a non turbo maybe, because the chances that the chip would cause major problems are pretty much 0.
Thanks for your response but if you visit www.chip-tuning.com you will find that they boost pressure on a Passat B5 1.8T and golf IV 1.8T from 0.48bar to 1 bar. And that's only for the 190HP chip. They also sell the 235HP package, unfortunately they don't spec the boost pressure with that one. It is also this site where they're talking about the 100.000km warranty without specifying the model or chip. The only thing I forgot is that in most cases you have to buy this warranty (when your car has more than 5.000 km, cars with less than 5.000 km have full factory warranty).
And yes, your right about the fact that almost everything that breaks down can be blamed to the boost, but blaming is not the same as proving. The manufacturer has to PROVE it was the chip. I really don't know how a manufacturer can prove this, but than again I'm not an expert (and also not a lawyer).
Kubbo
Finally we're getting somewhere. I'm learning every day. You're right about their English portion of the site, although they do list the Passat 1.8T with 1 bar, but maybe that engine has a bigger turbo that the Beetle, I don't know. On their German portion (which is mostly in English) they list the Golf IV 1.8T with 190 HP. They don't specify the pressure, but I assume it is the same as the Passat because it has the same (end) power. And yes, you're right about me having no experience, but it has never been my intention to tell the truth (or lies), I just tell what I read and hear and try to share it with other people and try to get responses so I can start building my experience. The reason for this is that I want to built a turbo or supercharger on my car. But before I do that I first need to know what it's all about, and that's what I'm doing right now. So, if I insulted you with my previous posting, I apologize for that.
Ok, now we cleared that one, back to the warranty. With warranty it is always the same with whatever company you deal with. It's always somebody else to blame and to claim. But why do they write on their (German) site that you can buy warranty for 1 year or 100.000 km, and why do they write that in case of a factory warranty you should turn to them? What to do, believe them or not? And yes, before you buy a product they always tell you that they have great warranty, but as soon as you start having problems they don't answer your calls and all that kind of crap. But I think, and that's my personal opinion, that somebody who sells a product with warranty has confidence in his/her product.
Ok, that's it for now, have to go,
Kubbo
also do these engine have timing belt or chain?
I say this for several reasons:
1 - '00 GTI warrantied with blown gasket, it was my best friends car. He blew it from too much boost (we think). The dealer did not (could not?) notice the remapped software.
2 - My solution to insure that I have coverage was buying an extra ECU with the chip. It cost me an extra $400 but I keep the original in my trunk and can switch them in about 15-20 minutes. The extra $400 is a very small price to pay next to voiding the warranty.
3 - I did a massive ammount of research before getting a chip. It is very difficult for a dealer to prove that a chip (or MOD in general) cause the problem. Dealers most often can not prove it. They do resort to stone wall tactics and I have talked to several people who have had to involve lawyers to take care of it. This why I did what I did (see # 2).
Also I would like to note that these problems are few and far between. Chipping WILL increase the chance of problems but it is still most likely you will go 100,000 miles w/o a chip induced problem.
On HP gains....
The APR chip takes the 1.8T to 196HP and 240lb-ft. This thing will scoot compared to the 174HP, 180lb-ft VR6. As a side note, you WILL need stickier tires to keep the beast in check.
The VR6 has the most potential (500+ on an EIP golf ~$6000 best I can figure on EIP's site) but you have to pay for every little bit of it. The 1.8T is the way to go if you have a budget(~$1000 with ECU) but from there the price goes up and you will not be able to achieve as much as with a VR6.
I love the dumbfounded look on the 20 year old in the mustang GT