Nissan 300ZX Electrical Problems

pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
edited December 2013 in Nissan
My 300ZX blows the 10A fuse intermittently (once every 2 weeks or so). Any suggestions as to what the reason could be.


  • damonj65damonj65 Member Posts: 1
    hello i just bought a 1986 nissian 300zx & they told me the lights wont go down & that was it so i bought it come find out i have no lights or tail lights but i have brake lights & turn signals i changed the relay & the fuse is good. the dealer ships around here cant help me. so should i change the headlamb sensor or what, is there anything else like maybe a broke wire? :cry:
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    Hello Demon,
    I have a similar problem, no running lights and tailights, stripped the interior found red wire with green strip. No visable sign of short! Checked light curcuit by taking each bulb out at a time and checked if fuse would blow, no isolation. Could you please send me info on location of rely and headlight sensor I know is located in panel left, eng compartment, fender wall. Did that no results! Changed out main brain, no difference. Will check each wire to light bytaking light out and checking continuity on wire run to light. will let you know! Now have intermitant dead spot on acceleration and Z won't start, I believe that the fuel when low level in tank allows air to gas feed line and engine fowels until fuel is return to line? Have you had any prob with fuel, or pump? Now fuel pump runs constant, rather than build pressure and cut off, have you had any trouble with fuel? :confuse: :sick:
  • ranchevranchev Member Posts: 1
    hi,my turn lights are not working-the fuse blows every time i swich them on,and my tail lights are not working too.what coud be the problem
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    When did you purchase your car, cause if someone replace the ECM with another date maunufactured, then it might be the start of a lengthy lemon. I would find the month date manufactured by the drivers door and get the number off the ECM (right passenger side kick panel). Call a wrecking yard and ask them if it is correct ECM or ECU Called: Engine control module or Engine control unit.
  • majixmajix Member Posts: 3
    I just bought an 85 nissan 300zx,love the car. It runs like a scalded dog. Today I was driving in the rain and I hit a big puddle. It caused the car to stall and not restart until it dried out,while it was sitting I opened the door and just at that second a truck went by causing a wave of water to come into the car and wash across the instrument cluster. Now it has no display,any suggestions as to how I might get it working again would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    I have heard of mechanics puting electronic boards in ovens on low heat to dry them and it works. In your case, you would have to take all the light plastic off because it will melt under low heat. There is also a married couple that cleans and rebuilds digital clusters and they advertise on e-bay. maybe they could do the same as I suggested. But, to remove the cluster is up to you I have been forunate to that being the only thing I haven't done to my 86.
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    Tell you what to do, on is downloadable manuals that will assist. You need to remove the ECU in the right kicker panel passanger seat. Leave the electrical wires hooked up, and there is a plain screw access on the top of the ECU, also. With the ignition off, turn the screw counter clockwise, turn the ignition on, but don't start the car. Turn the screw full clockwise until stop position. Look at the red and green lights flashing and count the number of times the green flashes that is the ten digit number, then count the number number of times the red light flashes. That is the one digit number. Could have the bulb colors wrong first light that flashes is ten digit # the second light that flashes is the one digit number so pay close attention or start over. Now if your unit has the explanation to the code for the toubleshooting printed on the face of the box use it, if not you can use the manual off of for diognosis. Replace part! With my (ECU) electronic control unit, the screw or correctly called a reostat was faulty, went to junk yard and replace just the reostat with soldier and electrical tape. Open your ECU and check both sides of the boards for burns, too. Hope this helps?
  • cordlizcordliz Member Posts: 2
    I do not have a owners manual,just a service manual. Their is a orange light next to the heater controls on the dash. Under the light is the word....GAS....Can anyone tell me its function?
  • rocs1rocs1 Member Posts: 1
    they way you discribed checking the trouble codes manually, would that work on a 1990 300zx also??????
  • majixmajix Member Posts: 3
    This light is the refrigerant warning light according to my owners manual.This light indicates when the refrigerant is low.It should glow when you the ignition is on ,but go out when the car is started.Hope this helps.
  • cordlizcordliz Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for looking that up for me.I suspected that might be what it is.The strange thing is when the weather is hot,the light stays on after the car is running.Cool weather it doesn't come on.Going to have to put a retro air condition kit on it,so I will have air.At least I know that sensor is working,as old as the car is.
  • cannondalegecannondalege Member Posts: 2
    My car had a weak battery for several months and once every few weeks I had an instant of difficulty to get it to crank. It seemed related to the clutch switch and/or the weak battery and I let it go...:) Now my car is stuck and it won't turn over. I replaced the clutch switch and the battery but no improvement. I have a shop manual and can do simple electrical repairs but the wiring diagrams are not that intuitive. Can someone inform me if there are any fuses to look at. Also, what indicator lights inform me that the alarm is deactivated? It will sound if a door is opened when engaged and the remote will turn it off. I will give the old starter tap a try later today. Maybe it's that simple! Any other ideas? The dash lights are lit but the clock goes out when I turn the key. Could there be a short somewhere or is that normal? I never noticed.

  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    What Year is your Z? I found that hot from battery is red, white smaller wire, Ibelieve leading to the alternator, is white (about 10 gauge). In my Z it loops about the battery and down to the alternater. When I examined this single wire (harness) and the insulation was cracked and I solve my battery drain problem. Maybe your probem is just that?
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    Hope Majix solved the problem for you? In the first few and maybe years after of manufactured Z's there is a tip sensor in gas tank. This sensor will cut all power to the Z and there is a sensor that will cut all power if the car occurs in a crashwhen fuel could leak to avoid fire. This light seems that it isn't related, but if after you turn your Z off the injector cooling fan runs, the gas light stay on it might not be the fault. Just FYI I'd thought I could help! Finally could you mail me back on the conditioner problem, Did it just take a recharge or What to fix?
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    I believe that the vehicle has a diagnostic cord and if this is the case some part supply chain in my area rent the meter for troubleshooting. $150.00 Returnable deposit and $6.00 a day rental. Follow the sales peron's advice, and I have read that the conector is below or around the hood release area by the steering wheel. Check that the device will couple, and the trouble code will be in the book along with renting the device? If not check out the right kicker panel (much more work) passenger seat and if you have a ECU similar to the pictures that are for prior years? Turn the screw at the top of the ECU engine off counter, clockwise, turn ingition on (without starting), with ig on turn the screw all the way clockwise and read the lights (number of blinks) It should give you a number but, if it just gives you 23 and 31 over and over check the ECU. The screw should have complete stops CC and CW, if not find another ECU and scab the reostat (replace).
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    Are you sure the letter aren't CAS (Crash assisted safety) device? Do you have air bags? I'm Serious, There isn't anything that would tell us how to verify charge on a coolant system, "That I know of!" :surprise:
  • cannondalegecannondalege Member Posts: 2
    Oh well, the dealer took me to the showers again. 4 hours of labor to diagnose a faulty starter relay. It's amazing that they can get away with things like that! The ignition system wiring diagram doesn't look like it would take more than a couple of hours to check everything. Had I known it would be 4 hours, I would have tried myself. But I thought I'd get some value from their "expertise". Wrong again!
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    What was the problem? Did you figure anything out on the problem? Charging System, Battery Terminals, Fail Safe Mode, or? When I had Emission part problems the running lights didn't work, clicking in the engine compartment after the key was off, and brake lights stay on after turning the key off! Now I think I have a problem the sensor light on the dash lit, so I am back to the diognostic sheet for troubleshooting. :confuse: I am changing out the leads to the battery.
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    1990 300z - my dash lights are not working. I checked all the fuses they are all good. my tail lights, brake lights & indicator lights are working fine. Just one day my dash lights went off. what coud be the problem? Any suggestions as to what the reason could be.
  • pauld5pauld5 Member Posts: 19
    to the left of the steering column is a dash brightness adjustment switch. See if that works, if not, then the harness might be loose.
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    harness might be loose....... where would that be....... behind the steering column?? Maybe I just might look around to see if anything is loose.
    ;) thanks pauld5 for the reply
  • ost86300zxost86300zx Member Posts: 1
    My reverse lights stay on all of the time. Could it be a switch on the tranny or a switch on the foot pedals, eletrical. Any suggestions would be helpful. The car is a 5 speed manual.
  • abronk775abronk775 Member Posts: 1
    My first problems i started having was i was driving and when i hit my brakes the digital dash went out. It turned back on really quick. and then nothing worked at all. it would run and but nothing electrical worked. i pulled over and the car wouldn't start. now i charge the battery and about 20 secs later it dies. the digital dash comes on every now and then after i rev the engine. i really dont know where to start looking. Thank you
  • olemisszolemissz Member Posts: 1
    My Z31 headlight motors run continuously after an electrical meltdown. I am sure I blew a relay somewhere but don't know where else to look. I have check the ones on the motors themselves and everywhere else I can think to check. Can anyone give me some advice.
  • james20880james20880 Member Posts: 1
    okay so I have an interesting electrical, I have power to all the exterior lights, and no power to anything in side the car. It ran fine up till two days ago. Any suggestions? I have checked all of the fuses but none of the relays and no way to know what is what. please let me know.
  • joani1joani1 Member Posts: 9
    Have you checked the alternator?
  • nike21nike21 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    ok i went to turn on my light, while i was driving last night and only my bright lights would come on. my dash lights my tail lights even my break lights are out. i checked all my fuses and they are all good. can anybody tell me what the problem may be
  • 300zx4300zx4 Member Posts: 1
    My brake lights are staying on all the time even when the car is off I have to pull the fuse to get th em out as soon as iput the fuse in the brake lightd come on
  • dymondmind4udymondmind4u Member Posts: 2
    your brake pedal has a plastic piece the connects with you switch...that plastic piece has broke! I just put in its place a nut and bolt. if you look under the dash following the brake pedal up you will see the switch and where the hole where the plastic piece probably found plastic pieces on the floor and didn't know where they came from.
  • dymondmind4udymondmind4u Member Posts: 2
    it is the pplastic piece connected to the brake pedal that has broken...i replaced that piece with a nut and bolt. problem solved
  • jcornejojcornejo Member Posts: 1
    Can someone please help me? I have been having an electrical problem while driving. The car will just shut-off while driving, my rpm's just drop and car shuts off. I put new battery and problem continues. After around five minutes car will start and continue to shut down periodically. When car shuts down all other electrical components work fine, even starter motor is strong at these moments. Does anyone have a clue what I can look into? coil? regulator?
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1990 z32 This is a little crazy but I have no clue why my horn will go off for no reason. I've notice that it only happens when it's hot out side. I live in Las Vegas the DESERT!
    I went ahead and just pulled the darn relay out. Please help me..... :)
  • 300zman300zman Member Posts: 1
    it called a brake light switch and you can get one at any auto zone iam a manager at one and i have 3 zcars
  • frogglegsfrogglegs Member Posts: 1
    i have had this car for several years and love it. ever since i received it the door locks would go nuts like they were possessed. i have no idea what was causing this. finally a mechanic was able to somehow disable the locks, so i no longer get locked in. get locked in a car you ask. good question, the locks would in a possessed manner flip back and forth in a violent way and would not stop until the door was opened if you were lucky enough to get the door opened because no matter ignition on or off the locks would have a mind of their own. when the locks would go nuts the power windows would not work. for the last several months i have not had any window issues, until about two months ago. the windows are back to their old tricks. one minute they will work just fine other times not at all. examples: i can get in the car close the door and put the window down, but then i cannot put the window back up until i open the door. it almost seems like i have to break some kind of connection. sometimes i can get in the car and close the door and cannot put the window up or down at all until i again open the door. it does not seem to matter if i have the car on or off, each time if the window is not working i must open the door and then it will work just fine. i cannot just open the door a little bit i have to open it completly which is why i think when the door opens it breaks some type of connection/seal, but i do not know what to even begin looking for in this matter. is there anyone who has any idea? also i would like to get my locks back to normal if anyone knows how to do that. any information would be apprectiated. thank you.
  • edgerb72edgerb72 Member Posts: 1
    whats up, simple question to many of you guys, my brake light wont turn on, but jsut the bottom one, the middle brake light works fine. i changed all the light bulbs, i change the fuse but nothing happend, i get a red light on my dash any idea what the problem may be? :confuse:
  • rstcratrstcrat Member Posts: 1

    The analog dash gauges (speedo, tach, oil, temp, fuel, etc) in my 1988 300zx have stopped working. All needles do not register/are frozen.
    What should I look for?
    If fuse(s) which fuse(s) power the gauges?
    Does the 'meter' fuse handle all gauges?
    I'm a senior and novice so non-techy and step by step would be much appreciated.

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