2011 Hyundai Sonata

nj2pa2nc

Our 2011 6MT sonata, bought 7/26, is rattle-free with zero-defects. (knock-on-wood) We live in NC and bought the car from the dealer in PA. We previously bought and serviced our cars there and think they are excellent. We drove the car home to NC. It now has almost 4,000 miles. The paint quality is alot better than our tsx.

cmuniz

Just got back from a 3,120 mile trip from Texas to the UP of Michigan and back home through Chicago. No problems, no rattles and plenty of room for all our stuff. We averaged between 34.8 and 38.2 MPG per tankful. The navigation system worked very well with some minor glitches. When paired up with XM traffic it appears to automatically sets routes to avoid traffic/construction delays. The Nav system in our Ford Fusion sets the routing and then warns about delays and give you the option to re-route afterwards. I had to learn to trust the Sonata Nav system, although sometimes I would have chosen another route. We breezed through Indianapolis, St Louis, Toledo and Chicago without any delays.

ryster

Thanks for the info. After checking my car, I do think that the crash pads are a major contributor to the problem. Yes, mine too creak when I press on them -- snap, crackle, pop. I did try some heavy paper shims that I made by cutting up an old greeting card. I experimented with perhaps half a dozen shims on each side in different seams, but unfortunately I didn't quell the noise. I decided against trying to wedge in thicker shims -- I did not want to force the seams to visibly open up. But at least I have a clue now that I can show to the Hyundai service rep. I also have the passenger seat rattle, but so far no other rattles. Then again, my car has less than half the miles that you have on yours.

Both of those pieces supposedly pop out fairly easily based on the removal instructions at hmaservice dot com. However I am not courageous enough to try it. My thinking was if I could get them out, perhaps putting thick felt tape on the surfaces that meet the main dash would be enough to make the pad more stable after reinstalling it. That is probably what the dealer would try first as well.

My concern with the dealer is how careful they would be removing and reinstalling those pieces. I have had bad luck historically with dealers trying to fix odd noises. They don't really like to do it and they seem to take it out on the car and make things worse.

Please keep us updated on how your dealer visit goes.

dgd619

Anyone know how much to replace smart key for 2011 sonata limited

ryster

Hyundai Smart Key replacements are typically $250-$300 from a dealer. You may be able to find them online for significantly less, however the dealer would still need to program it for your Sonata (and would charge you to do so.)

rich27514

I have a 2011 Sonata Limited that I have enjoyed very much. It now has 10,000 miles. In the last month, I have started to experience minor problems but now I have one that I consider major. Today, my car would not start, just out of the blue. When I pushed the start button, I received the message to depress the brake pedal. Well, I was already pressing on it as hard as I could but nothing at all. I tried this several times, using both key FOBs at different times, and also inserting a key FOB into the spot in the center console. Nothing. Also, the brake pedal was not depressing as usual. It was very stiff and would go down only a small amount. I called hyundai roadside service, and it took about 90 minutes for them to come. The technician tried jumping the car. Same problem. Also, the lights and other electrical equipment worked fine.

This technology is beyond my knowledge. The other two problems I am having right now are with the radio randomly cutting off, sometimes for an entire day, and the electrochromatic mirror working only some of the time. I am fearful of an electrical problem as I once owned an Audi.

Hyundai had already decided to replace the radio. They have yet to determine the problem with the mirror, and I'll have to see what they say about this. When I asked whether or not there might be an electrical problem, they dismissed that immediately and said these were all very separate issues.

I was doing okay dealing with the radio and mirror, but the non-starting is testing my opinion of the car.

jsmit86

Rich -

Most likely this is caused by a defective brake pedal sensor. I had the same issue. My dealer quickly diagnosed and fixed it. Have them check for that issue.

LASHAWN

Damn woman, I was just pointing out that I only heard of 2 incident reports being made which to say is hardly worth mentioning on a large scale. I'm sure that when the first 2 Camry's unintensionally accelerated that people didn't think of it as a big deal until they started hearing about more and more. So don't go spreading bad seeds.

mikemartin

I've been seeing quite a few incidents spoken of and raised regarding the steering on many places, including Hyundai Forums.

Who knows what to make of it now.

I recently re-test drove a Limited, and I think the ride is too firm and there's too much ROAD noise in the Sonata compared to Subaru Legacy, Toyota Camry, Chevy Malibu, Ford Fusion and Mazda 6 I recently drove.

I do like the front seats, the fuel economy and the switchgear and instrument panels in the new Sonata. I also like the good number of standard features, though the new Sonata is not being discounted as heavily as the 2010 version -

- Sonata levels are starting to build at a pretty rapid pace again, and with a still deteriorating economy, I full expect prices to come down.

The Sonata is nice, but the road noise and stiff suspension make it a no go for us.

clasiccarguy

Sonata levels are starting to build at a pretty rapid pace again, and with
a still deteriorating economy, I full expect prices to come down.

I would say so. In my area you can lease the 2011 Sonata GLS for $149.00 a month for 36 months with $2500 down. That's less than $8K total investment for three years. That sure wont keep the value of the vehicle up,

The Hyundai Dealer by me had a lot full of them to chose from .

haggard

Wow.

OK, you have our attention. So Where is that?

backy

Hyundai has to keep up with its competition on the lease deals. I see comparable lease deals on other mid-sizers, e.g. $149/month for Milan with only $1100 down, $219 a month sign-and-drive on Camry, $247 sign-and-drive on Mazda6. The best deal I see advertised in my area on Sonata is $199/month with $2400 down, or $269 sign and drive. Also, on leases you have to look at the residuals. One reason for the super-low payment in your area might be the residual is very high. I got a good deal on a Sentra this spring, $179/month sign-and-drive, but the residual is so high I'll likely turn it in at the end of the lease.

haggard

I just spoke to my rep at Stateline in NJ. We were supposed to try and nail a deal down today but my kid got hurt and we had to postpone. Then I saw what classiccarguy posted, and emailed my rep to ask. That deal would be $239 sign and drive with 9% PA sales tax.

Anyway, my rep said no such deal exists. I hope we can do something, they are very low pressure, love to give them my business. We'll see.

backy

Well, maybe no such deal exists now. What are other deals like in your area? There's some really good deals where I live on Camrys and Milans, for example. Find a great deal (preferably advertised) on a competitor to the Sonata, bring that into the Hyundai dealer, and tell the salesperson you are choosing between the Sonata and Car X, but Car X has a much better lease deal--can you match it? If s/he says "no", walk out. If they don't follow you or call you later, they can't/won't match it.

clasiccarguy

One reason for the super-low payment in your area might be the residual is very high.

You are probably right. I saw this advertised on TV and in our local paper today. I was mistaken on the $2500 down. It is $149 a month for 36 months with $2995 down so it would be about $8300 total invested for the three years. There was no mention of the residual value in either ad.

rexg

My concern with the dealer is how careful they would be removing and reinstalling those pieces. I have had bad luck historically with dealers trying to fix odd noises. They don't really like to do it and they seem to take it out on the car and make things worse.

Yes I have the same concern too. I think that service departments are generally better now than in the bad old days (70's and 80's), but still I don't like the idea of having them disassemble my dash in order to chase down a rattle.

backy

Is that $2995 PLUS tax/title/license? Depending on location, those can add up. In my area (Twin Cities), we have to pay all sales tax (6.5% or more) up front for the entire lease, plus license and fees--those can easily add up to $1000. One reason I prefer the "sign and drive" leases, if the payment is low enough.

haggard

Not really dealing a lot locally, Lehigh Valley, PA. All want to only give down payment/monthly payment and won't give out numbers.

I used info from these forums and leaseguide.com's calculator to prepare the following offer for GLS AT 36 month/15K miles, no takers yet:

Base Cap Cost: 19,335
Costs added to lease: 795 (acq fee, reg, title and dealer processing)
Cap Cap Cost Reductions 795 (paid at signing)
Adjusted Cap Cost: 19,335
Residual Value: 11,922
Money Factor: 0.0001
Term: 36
Sales Tax % (PA) 9

Monthly Payment: 209.04 + 18.81 tax = 227.85

Do you think this is a fair offer, or am I missing something? Thanks for your advice.

backy

I don't know what the going rate is in PA. In my area, it would be roughly equivalent to the $269/month sign-and-drive offers I've seen advertised recently. So from that standpoint it seems reasonable. You might even start with the acquisition fee being waived, and see what they say--gives you more negotiating room.

clasiccarguy

Is that $2995 PLUS tax/title/license?

I am sure the tax/title/license fee is extra due when you pick up the car and your right that can and will add up very quickly.. :P The $149.00 monthly payment is really $149.00 + 7.5% tax each month... :sick:

norm8_lakes

Does anyone know why the cruise control and EOS don't work. 9000 miles.

denp3

Would be best to have your dealer look at it.
Should be under warranty.

norm8_lakes

Yes, I'm going there today. I thought maybe anyone on this forum might have an idea. There are many Hyundai mechanics on this forum.

mommyt

Okay LASHAWN. I took it the wrong way. It seemed that you were minimizing what happened to us. There are more reports. One lady was pulling away from a stop sign when her car did the same thing. The difference was that she was only going around 5 mph. It frightened her, but she was able to stop quickly without a struggle. Another had an infant in the car and went through what I did, only for a longer distance because they were on a highway and could not pull over right away. They were terrified. There are more reports similar to these. I am happy that they are investigating. Once they get all of the cars from the bad batch repaired, we can start to feel safe again.

nj2pa2nc

I own a 2011 Sonata and must say I feel very safe driving it. Just hope these problems are not driver error like a lot of the toyotas were. I remember watching a car crash thru a store after the driver thought they had the car in reverse and it was in drive.

schdy

Once they get all of the cars from the bad batch repaired, we can start to feel safe again.

I don't understand this statement. I thought you returned your car to the Dealer. So if you no longer have a 2011 Sonata why say we.

m6user

If someone can't control their own car doesn't it make sense that others on the road could be at risk as well? That would be the "we" she is probably talking about. Some people care about others even if the others don't happen to own a 2011 Sonata.

Karen_S

A reporter seeks to interview people who recently purchased (or are considering purchasing) a new Hyundai Sonata. Please reply to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, September 7, 2010 noting your previous vehicle and sharing a few words describing your thoughts on the car.

ryster

Not really dealing a lot locally, Lehigh Valley, PA. All want to only give down payment/monthly payment and won't give out numbers.

I used info from these forums and leaseguide.com's calculator to prepare the following offer for GLS AT 36 month/15K miles, no takers yet:

Base Cap Cost: 19,335
Costs added to lease: 795 (acq fee, reg, title and dealer processing)
Cap Cap Cost Reductions 795 (paid at signing)
Adjusted Cap Cost: 19,335
Residual Value: 11,922
Money Factor: 0.0001
Term: 36
Sales Tax % (PA) 9

Monthly Payment: 209.04 + 18.81 tax = 227.85

Do you think this is a fair offer, or am I missing something? Thanks for your advice.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------
The numbers here seem a little off.

A money factor of 0.0001 translates into an interest rate of approximately 0.24%. No bank would agree to a 3-year lease on a vehicle at such a low interest rate. A more reasonable money factor would be .0025

PA sales tax is 6%.

Assuming this is for an automatic GLS, with a base sticker price of $20,915, the cap cost you are requesting is about $929 below the $20,264 factory invoice price. Right off the top you are asking the dealer to subsidize the cap cost.

Your residual value is about $600 too high based on ALG numbers for the 2011 Sonata GLS.

Additionally, you are looking for 15,000 miles per year. Most low payment leases are based on 10-12K miles per year. 15K miles will raise the payment.

You would probably get more responses if you had a cap cost of $20,500, 36 month residual of $11,325, money factor of .0025, 6% sales tax, and down payment of $1,000. Of course, that will put your monthly payment more in the $325/month range. However, this would give a dealer a more reasonable starting point to work with you and fine tune the deal.

To get a lease payment around $225, you would need to put closer to $4000 down. You have probably not had any takers on your initial offer because dealers are afraid they will not be able to reach the numbers and payment you are looking for.

Incidentally, I live about 18 miles from the Lehigh Valley area. Not certain which dealers you are shopping (Emmaus, Reading, or Quakertown), but any dealer that only gives a payment and does not provide a breakdown of the numbers should be avoided.

ral2167

i leased a camry with a money factor of .00001 last week. so it's possible that the .00001 is correct.

not sure why you'd lease a gls for over $300 a month when a loaded camry 6 cylinder XLE loaded can be leased at $309 a month -- 15000 miles per year. i did it last week. no money down but first month payment. you should be able to do a lot better on a gls sonata, or even a limited sonata. good luck.

haggard

Thanks for your reply. I meant to edit the post, no takers really means I haven't sent it out yet pending input from posters here.

PA sales tax on an auto lease is 9%.

I did leave out the destination in the cap cost (Fitzmall's selling price is 19435 including destination) and the residual I used was for 12K miles, should have been 11,712 for 15K. I based that on car_man's latest numbers in this thread.

The money factor is also what car_man has posted earlier in this thread, it is an HMFC rate, I believe.

So, I will adjust and see where that goes.

kingkwab

I also have about 10,000 miles on mine and having same starting problem. It has happened twice and am starting to think otherwise. I will take it to the workshop this weekend for them to take a look. It took me about 30minutes before it started and last time about 10 minutes.

mazda6dude

Update:

I took my 2011 Sonata GLS in for alignment today. The service advisor told me that there is no problem and the alignment is fine. He said its normal for the Sonata to drive like that. I said "what!"! Are you kidding me! The car wanders all over the. It goes to the right and when I correct it, it goes to the left. I told him this and he said it's the way the Sonata's are built and I will have to get used to it!

I am not happy at all! Never had a car wander all over the road. It cannot go straight at all. I contstantly have to hold the steering so the car will not go to the right or left. I am no mechanic, but this is not normal at all!

What do you all think? Any feedback/opinions would be highly appreciated! I am very frustrated.

caseybru

I bought a Pacific green, 2011 hyundai Sonata GLS in March of this year. I took it in yesterday for it's 6 month checkup and oil change. I had them check the coupling between the steering gear and the rack and pinion and all was secure. I printed out the Reuter's write up and they had not heard of it yet and so they copied my paper for their files. My brakes work perfect. The steering is excellent. I can turn loose the steering wheel and it tracks true. There are no squeeks or rattles in the car. I drove a 100 mile round trip recently over a 5200 foot mountain. Speed average was 65 mph. My mileage was 35.6 mpg. Had a problem with the b-horn on the burglar alarm and they fixed it. Hyundai dealers have been very courteous and quick acting so far. live in northeastern California.

sonatascott

Here's my best advise, assuming the alignment is "good".
1) Make sure there is 33 psi in all 4 tires. More is bad, increasing input sensitivity.
2) Buy a leather steering wheel cover, it offers much better feel, and allows better grip without squeezing the wheel tightly.
These two things really helped me with my GLS. This car really does have tight steering, I know now that I have 7,000 miles on it I'm very used to it and can relax and enjoy it.
My cover is a Wheelskins. It was about $40. shipped with tax. I also often wear leather driving gloves. I've done that with most of my cars and motorcycles.
Lastly, I didn't read all the previous posts. Was your cars alignment per Hyundai's Technical Service Bulletin 10-SS-008? It deals with your exact complaint.

sonatascott

They do fold in. You have to do it manually, pulling slightly upward while rotating rearward. It's in the owners manual. The top trim level Korean market model has electrically folding mirrors.

jlflemmons

You need to find another dealer, and file a complaint with Hyundai, because your dealer and/or advisor is full of cr@p. Ask to drive another Sonata for comparison. While the steering on these (and most Hyundai) is very tight, they do not wander. I would bet money there is an alignment problem that is going to show up in the tires by 10K miles, if not already. Look for uneven wear, or feathering on the edge of the tread. If nothing else, ask around and find a highly reputable alignment shop and pay them to check the alignment. If they find a problem, get a printout and call Hyundai.

There are many very good Hyundai dealers out there. It sounds like yours is not one of them.

m6user

It has to alignment or a more serious steering rack problem of some kind. If you are not exaggerating this is absolutely not normal for any car. A tire that is low or high would always pull to the same side until adjusted. Out of balance tires usually more of a wobbly feel. I've heard people complain about the Toyota Corolla when it went to EPS but not nearly as big a problem as you describe....just a vague wander of center line from what I've read and fairly easy to get used to. Your problem sounds like none of these so I would press the dealer for action.

Also, drive a couple of other Sonatas and see how they feel compared to yours. It's worth the time.

nj2pa2nc

does not sound right-our '11 sonata does not do that-it now has just over 4,000 miles-

denp3

Just got back from a 500 mile trip with highway and city driving. The steering seemed fine on the highway. When I first got it back in April, it took me a little time to get use to the EPS. I went from a 2006 Sonata to the 2011 Sonata Limited.
I averaged 38 mpg on the way up to Maine from CT, 160 miles, approx. 160 up there and the 160 coming home. When I got home it had averaged out to 33.8mpg.
not bad. The car performed flawlessly. I also haven't noticed any rattles.
I would find another dealer, they don't seem to be very professonal.
Where are you located?

bcme136

I don't see anyone discussing fit/finish. We purchased an 2011 Elantra touring and the hood at the headlight on drivers side is an inch higher than on the passenger side. Have tried to adjust the "stops" but no cure yet. Haven't taken it to the dealer yet. My point here is the hoods on 8 out of 9 Sonota's I looked at had a half inch gap between the hood and fender on the drivers side also between the grill and fender yet were ok on the passenger side. I remember the big fit/finish issue in the past.

jsmit86

Accepting that your complaint is not just a nitpick, you need to take action now.

I would strongly suggest checking with another dealer, and contacting HMA consumer affairs if necessary. What you are describing is NOT normal.

You may have an alignment problem, or you may still have tire issues. It happens.
It may be a PITA to have to press on this, but trust me... NOW is the time. Do not accept anything less than a fix for this.

When I first got my car, I had a slight drift or wander off center at highway speeds. It was totally gone without any action on my part well before I turned 1K miles.

I suspect that my VERY MINOR issue was attributed to breaking in the tires. One thing I did do early on was adjust the tires to 33PSI. IIRC mine were up around 38-39 from the dealer. This made a major improvement in ride.

With about 4K on the car now, the steering feels relatively firm, and holds well on center. My previous car was an Infiniti G35. The Sonata does not compare to that car, but IMHO does compare well to my previous I35, 300M and Chrysler Concorde. I recently had a chance to do an extensive test comparison for market research company comparing the Fusion, Malibu and Sonata. Honestly, I'd give a slight edge to the Fusion for steering feel, but even the GLS I drove were a close second. The Malibu was not even in the same league. Ditto for test drives I have done comparing to Camry.

Stay on it, and post the results. Best of Luck!

caseybru

Our 2011 Sonata GLS was slightly higher on passenger side. Hyundai adjusted it on Thursday 9/9/10

mazda6dude

Update:

I am located in Northern CA. I took it to another Hyundai Dealership for a second opinion. The service advisor told me to bring the car in on Monday and have the shop foreman do a test drive. The shop foreman wasn't in or I would have done it at the same time. So on Monday I will take the car in and have the shop foreman drive it. I will keep you all posted on what happens.

denp3

I have no complaints on my 2011 Sonata Limited,
which was built in Alabama. The Elantra is built in Korea.
My wife has a 2010 Elantra SE, no problems so far.

caseybru

Take to either Chris Shaffer at Roseville Nissan/Hyundai or to Rich at Chico Nissan/Hyundai... Both businesses are trustworthy, fair, and take good care of their customers. I jus took mine to Chico Thursday even though I bought it in Roseville. Chico is about 100 miles closer to me than Roseville..

bcme136

I also have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited I'm happy with. Guess I was surprised that this was allowed to pass inspection. I remember when the Alabama plant opened there was a big problem with fit/finish coming out of there.

shot_mos

same starting issue with ours today - brake pedal extremely stiff, would not start for the missus - I went out to the car and it started right away.

Will have service dept check the brake pedal sensor. :mad:

denp3

I had a 2006 Sonata, first model year out of the Alabama plant. The fit and exterior finish was fine, some interior trim pieces had to be replaced due to finish, but otherwise quite satisfied.

jlflemmons

If any vehicle has a very stiff pedal after sitting for less than a couple of days, chances are there is a vacuum leak allowing the reserve vacuum cansister to bleed down. When the engine is running, it produces vacuum for the brake booster. There is a reserve canister that "stores" vacuum for the assist incase the engine shuts down while moving. If you let a car idle and then shut it off, you should still get 2-3 power assists when pressing the brake pedal. If you shut off the engine, wait a bit, and the pedal is already stiff, you are losing the vacuum and should have it checked out. Could be (and likely is) as simple as a vacuum line come off, or had a hole rubbed in it.