Honda Civic (coupe/hatchback)
This is the place to continue our conversation
about the popular Honda Civic. To read previous
post, please click here.
carlady/host
about the popular Honda Civic. To read previous
post, please click here.
carlady/host
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
If your at all mechanically inclined and have a Helm manual, do it yourself. I replaced the head gasket on my 90 crx last spring and it was no big deal. Just follow all the specs in the manual. Save $400+
Thanks.
If this car has a lot of miles like 175K & up, could very well be a head gasket. A guy I work with replaced the head gasket in his '91 Civic at 196K mi. Paid $400. He kept it for another 15K mi. or so and he gave it away to his neighbor's 16yr old kid. He said the kid told him the car has close 230K mi. now. Not bad, another 35K mi. for $400 and the car is still going..
PS. some people blow their head gasket because they don't realize they have a slow radiator or hose leak, nothing to do with engine age..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
MSRP - $12,615
Does anybody think that $11,900 is a ridiculous offer?
Thanks,
Ryan R.
I was the one who had the alternator replaced at 11,000 miles, and then the "chirping" problem on start-up, and other problems. Well all is well now. The mechanic I took it to gave it the once-over, and now the car runs better than when I bought it. I was about ready to trade it in, but now I've changed my mind. What a difference a good mechanic makes! Plus, I would miss all the capabilities that this car has. In the 1 1/2 years I've had it, I've hauled all the parts for a 6ft fence with it, and transported all kinds of furniture with it, among other things.
Too bad that the Honda dealers around here are such jerks. They're not accomodating, they charge too much, they won't explain anything to you, and they just treat you like dirt. If it wasn't for finally getting the car running the way it should, I would have gotten rid of it in a second! I never had this problem with any of the Toyota dealers I dealt with. But I am going to keep this car now that I know how it CAN run. And I'll do my very best to never step foot in a Honda dealer again, if I can help it!
If you went back to them when the car had 37K or 40K miles they 'd jump on it and charge you an a arm and a leg and it's possible they still wouldn't fix anything.
When the car is under warranty they try their best to turn you away and tell you there is nothing wrong and that's it's normal, etc.. You have to yell and scream at them and call Honda on them to get them to fix a problem. Although not every dealer is like that (I have heard some good stories) it seems that it's the majority.
You 're absolutely right. Find yourself a good mechanic after your warranty runs out.
It's such a misconception that the dealer knows the car better.. that's a lot of bull. Many times they have inexperienced young kids working there and the service advisors try and rip you off all the time. I think they work on commission some times. I took my car to the dealer because they were running a special on oil changes so I figure let me get a genuine Honda filter and save some money at the same time. I asked the service advisor how much to install the 4 Honda spark plugs I had bought (from a Honda/Acura specialist shop near my house - cheaper than the dealer).
He says ONE hour labor! I said "forget it, your mechanics really suck if it takes them 1hr to install 4 plugs". Then he said .75hr I said I 'll do it myself. Then he pretends he 's looking at the book and comes back with 1/2 hr labor! I said nope, it takes me 10min. Finally he said "ok, 1/4 hr (15min) but only because he is under the hood already and you 're getting an oil change"
I said fine because I was too lazy to do it. They 're all fricking thieves. It took the kid exactly 8 min. to put them in and he was taking his time. I was outside watching in because they had the garage door open and I timed him :-)
Although I also had a problem or two during the warranty period with my '97 hatchback they couldn't turn me away because the speedometer was not working and the alternator was dead! They fixed them in a timely manner (the next day) and I got the hek out of there. They charged Honda back only 1.25hrs labor for the alternator and speed sensor. Imagine the labor they would 've charged me for an alternator if it wasn't under warranty, considering they wanted 1hr labor for spark plugs!
But there are dealers with good mechanics out there just not around some of us. And the service advisors/managers make it even harder on us even if they have good mechanics because they wiesel their way out of doing warranty work..
Sorry for the long note. Dealers just piss me off.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
At least I did the right thing by not buying their stupid service agreement. This way, I was able to find a great mechanic who could make this car run the way it should. It has never run this good - even when I drove it off the lot!
I have to admit though, my Integra's seats are more comfortable than the Civic's although the Civic's don't bother me a bit.
I would do a search on the Web if I were you. Search for "car seats" maybe?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
carlady/host
The front passenger seat goes pretty far down and the seat goes way to the front almost touches the glove compartment. You won't have any problems.
You just have to put the seat in first and then the baby in it. This is because you have to put the seat in a little crooked at first through (put it sideways)
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The car is wonderful, and I currently have 11,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3,000 miles (even though they say you can wait until 3,750 miles - i like to be safer than sorry).
***** The only issue I have, is that the car takes longer to start when the gas tank is down to 1/4 tank or less. It seems to crank longer before it ignites. When the gas tank is filled greater than 1/4 tank, it starts immediately. I NEVER run the car out of gas, and usually fill up when it hits the 1/4 mark.
Any ideas?
who can help us? Bueller? Anyone?
Have you ever asked the dealer about it? I'm thinking of trying that, though I am skeptical that they will provide a knowledgable and truthful answer.
I try to fill-up the tank as it hits the 1/4 mark, all the time.
As long as I do that, there is no start-up issue.
I guess over the long run it puts more wear on your starter, fly wheel, and battery but how significant is it?
I live in Raleigh, NC, and we just got through with the worst snow storm we ever had here (20.3" of snow!). I know that may be more common up north, but down here, this city shuts down for an inch, let alone 20". Anyway, I was able to get around just fine in my car, after the first day or so - and I don't have snow tires or chains or anything like that.
I have a friend with a big F150, and even he spun out and slid off the road, but mine never did slide more than a little wiggle. I don't know how much is the car itself, but after seeing every kind of car, truck and sport utility slide off into ditches, telephone poles and other cars in the last two weeks, I am very impressed at the handling capabilities of a small front-wheel drive hatchback in such foul weather.
It seems during that 2 week transition period of time, the gasoline is oxygenated and will cause a longer than normal cranking time.
I always use name-brand regular gas as per owners manual.
I hope this post helps.
In '96 when our hatchback first came out, Autoweek went and got one to test drive it. It did the same thing! Took a few cranks before it started and other times it started right up. They took it in to the dealer and they said everything was fine and that it's normal.
Now in another article in early '97. I think it was Automobile magazine, they took it to the dealer for the same problem and were told that there was a "technical service bulletin" (not a recall) on the water pump of certain '96 models and they replaced it for free. Supposedly the water pump was what was delaying the startup. If the waterpump doesn't function right the computer will not let you start the car or will delay ignition until the water pump starts pumping the water. That's the explanation the magazine editors were given.
I also went to my dealer in '98 after I had my car for about a year and pointed out the service bulletin but they said that was only for '96 models and that there is nothing wrong with '97 & up water pumps.
Well 90k miles later the water pump and the car are still doing fine. The only problem I 've had was with the speed sensor that went and blew out the alternator at 80K mi. They were both covered under the extended warranty I had gotten for $600 (100k mi. no deduct.) from the dealer when I bought the car.
I think the only real problem all Civics have is their crappy cheap brake rotors that warp easily or after one or two panic stops..
But luckily they 're cheap. I was able to get them on the Net for like $54 ea. Dealer wanted $78.. It's cheaper to replace them than having them resurfaced..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Just a thought, if you don't like Honda's rotors why not replace them with some high quality aftermarket rotors?
I was not referring to people that do the work themselves but to people that go to the dealer or a garage to have their rotors replaced or turned.
My neighbor paid the Honda dealer $140 to have them resurfaced! The problem is, they charge you a minimum of an hour labor no matter what they do at the dealer so he ended up paying for 1.5hrs labor + $50 for turning the rotors! Here in NY dealers don't let you walk out unless you pay them at least $100 for some bull**t work that would take me or you 15min to do.
I paid $115 (including shipping) for 2 brand new rotors and $30 for new brake pads. I had my mechanic put them on for $40 in the garage I 've been going to for 15 yrs. Took him 45min. and we were BSing and he had a smoke in between wheels!
My car had 85K mi. at the time and the pads were more than half worn and the rotors were so warped the whole car was shaking violently when I applied the brakes, that I just wanted all new stuff.
Also be aware than you can ony cut the rotors maybe twice, especially Civic ones because they 're very thin.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I'm about 40 miles NW of Detroit. Most places around here charge $5 - $8 per rotor. I would NEVER go to the dealer for anything I thought I could do myself. My local dealer is excellent but, mechanics are just too expensive.
The first time I went to my local Honda dealer I had them do the timing belt / water pump plus replace the fuel filters and front pads. I brought it in Saturday, they told me the car would be done Monday at 4 and cost $420.00. They called Monday at 10:30 am said it was done and they only charged me $360!
One of the things I personally like about the Civic is how easy it is to work on myself. Rotors and pads are a snap. Of course I have a large well lit garage and all the tools I need.
Have you thought about aftermarket rotors? Maybe good cross drilled racing rotors would disperse the heat better and last longer? I know the rotors on my 00' are vented, yours?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
"Finally, I was able to view the new re-designed 2001 Honda Civic sedan. The two sedans were sent over from Japan recently to the Honda plant in
Alliston, Ontario, Canada. Both cars were proto types and most interior body panels were plain plastic.
The Civic body style is "cab forward" so the engine compartment isn't as roomy as previous Civics. The engine still remains a 1.6 litre
displacement, however there are some interesting changes in the engine design. Gone is the distributor cap and spark plug wires. Each spark
plug will have its own ignition coil placed directly on top of the plug. The intake plenum is plastic. I'm not sure if the plastic intake
will be replaced by aluminum once production begins. Same double wishbone suspension. Tires are now 15 inch as opposed to 13 and 14 inch
on previous Civic models. The exhaust manifold is no longer cast iron and is replaced by a steel header. Heating and cooling has changed.
The ventilation system now has a replaceable micron air filter. Both the A/C condenser and radiator are full size as opposed to the half size
on previous models. The new system is expected to be much more efficient at cooling and heating the interior cab. Interior space is 'slightly' larger (don't have specs). Interior upholstery and
instrument panel has a european design to it (hard to explain). Driver and passenger side air bags are available. The air bags are placed in
the side of the seats around the lumbar region. The over all shape to the car has changed. The back end is shaped like the Honda prelude.
some say the [non-permissible content removed] end looks like a BMW. The front end is slightly sloped forward. The headlights have integral circular fog/day time running
lights. A/C will now be a factory option on any Civic grade. Before the dealers used to install the A/C system.
What I don't have are the specs on the horsepower and torque figures of the engine. I suspect that horsepower will be slightly increased over
previous Civics. For people in Canada the Acura EL engine will be replaced by a 1.7 litre engine with the same design as the above mentioned Civic engine. I don't know what colors will be available but you could probably expect the same generic colors that were seen on previous Civics.
Trial production runs will start in April 2000. Mass production will start in August 2000.
Incidentally, for those who want the Civic hatchback, it will no longer be produced after this year due to lack of sales in North America.
Hmmm, this sounds interesting. The new Civics seem to be shaping up into tantalizing little cars. A 1.8L option wouldn't be a bad idea - more torque means less throttle application, and better "real-world" fuel economy. I doubt it would cost significantly more for Honda to equip them with 1.8s. It's a shame to hear about the demise of the
hatchback too... Jeff"
how can they say lack of sales? i see them in Mass all the time!!!
And I can not find any prices for the following items on Edmunds:
A/C
Tweeter Kit
Floor Mats
Center Console
Can anyone tell me where to find these prices...
And what the dealer really paid for this stuff.
Thanks for any help.
automan5: Sometimes the chattering comes from the valves on cold mornings and goes away when the
oil starts circulating and lubing them. Make sure you warm up the car for a few minutes before you start driving it. It could also be from the belts..
herbster: Floor mats are around $60 for the Civic. Whatever deal you make with the dealer make sure mats are included. A/C could range anywhere from $1K to 1,300 depending on the dealer. I paid $900 for it back in '97 when I bought my DX htbk but it took some negotiating.
The A/C parts cost the dealer around $700.
weasle: unfortunately yes, the Si was the only hatchback that came with a tach. I almost didn't buy the DX htbk for that reason. It really bothered me at the time that I was shopping for a 5-sp. with no tach. But I too got it for $12.5K (with A/C, sticker was $13,300) so I couldn't be too picky.. I think all new Civics will have a tach in '01.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I honestly don't think we can change anything because they look at the number of sales and the hatchback is the one sold the least out of all the Civics. Besides, they made the decision to cut the hatchback 2-3 yrs ago.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Accelaration was nothing to talk about and those little tires made handling average at best. I know Civics move better with just the driver and noone else in the car because of their low torque. My '97 Civic DX (106hp) doesn't accelerate as well when I have a 150lb+ adult in the car.. Good luck
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
was it some special edition or something?
You 're right, they 're not too common. I 've seen maybe 4 or 5 myself but I think that's due to the lack of options in the car and I believe it only came in a 5-sp. It was also priced about the same as the 1.6L DX which was more peppy and came with more options. Honda thought that because they car got good mileage they should charge more for it. GEO/Chevy was doing the same with the Metro because it had gained popularity for its amazing gas mileage and were charging in excess of $10K when I saw them in the Chevy dealer's lot. Back then (I think '93) you could get a Civic CX or DX easily with $10K. So this was a big mistake that Honda made. They overpriced the VX thinking they could get away with it but it turned out people didn't care about the 4-5 extra mpg and opted for the DX hatchbacks with the bigger engine and extra 10hp.
So what happened was, you could get a really good price on a VX because they were sitting at the lot for a long time. The Si hatchback sold a lot better too. I wish they still made it but Honda keeps screwing things up..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
funny - when i bought the "base-model" civic hatchback in 1990, it didn't have a title other than "civic". there were no extra letters tagged on. it had a 1.5 litre engine, a 4-speed manual, no a/c - no nothing.
i thought it was the best car. i loved it. i put my own radio in it. i loved the simplicity of the vehicle, and i thought it was rather peppy too - AND made well to boot!!! sounds to me like they made that vehicle the future "VX", and upgraded the CX a notch.
In august I bought a silver CX, but paid a little more for A/C and Automatic. If it didn't have those options, I can't imagine a more simple version. That's what I love about it.
hey - how 'bout the new Honda Odyessy?
But seriously, I know what you mean. Many people keep an old car around that reminds them of how poor they used to be and to appreciate what they now have. It's really symbolic to a lot of people and for various reasons.
I kept my '71 Nova SS350 around for a 2-3 years after it got rear-ended by a semi (hit & run) which put the bumper almost in the trunk. I didn't have the heart to sell it and wanted to fix it up even though I was driving new cars. It sat in the driveway for almost 3 years until '89 when a guy driving by my house offered me $150 for it to take it away and use it in a demolition derby! I sold it to him but I felt really bad about it because the car reminded me of my teenage care-free days..
Anyway, why buy a Chrysler? If you want a good performing sedan get the Audi A4 Quattro (AWD) for the same price ($30K) or the all mighty Audi S4 (turbocharged 0-60 in under 6sec) for $38K or the reliable Acura TL 3.2 for $30K.
BTW, in a month or two the Acura CL 3.2 Type-S (coupe only) will be out with 260hp!! Smaller than a 300M but the same size as an Audi A4/S4.
TL 3.2 is also supposed to get 250hp, up from 225.
But if you have your heart set on the 300M go for it and good luck.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks
jerryg
go to www.crutchfield.com
there should be an 800 number there to call, and speak with a tech. they can walk you through it.
IF SO, SHARE WITH US [IF YOU WILL] A TRICK OR 2 THAT HAS HELPED. (EXAMPLE - MAYBE YOU CHANGE THE OIL WITH MANIC FREQUENCY...?)
THANKS
I have friends who race their CRX's with 80,000 mi and the cars run great. I'm talkin road racing 80+ down the long straight, not autocross.