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Mazda CX-9 Keyless Entry

prd3prd3 Posts: 6
Recently my 2007 CX-9, luxury package AWD which I bought new, began having problems with the keyless card and is totally unreliable as it does not always (70% of the time) open or close the doors or even start the engine.The dealer ordered two new sets of cards, had them reprogrammed but to no avail. I have tried with new batteries also. The dealer is consulting with Mazda tech but has had no answer from them yet after two weeks waiting. In the meantime I use the metal key to get around. The dealer initially thought there could be interference coming from my cell phone but that has been disproved.


  • I know I am missing the basic steps here, but my window sticker claims I can put down the windows from the Keyless entry remote, but I can not figure out how? A little help please...
  • OK, I found my own answer. 2 clicks on un-lock and hold down the un-lock key and the sunroof and front windows open.
  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    Pretty cool huh?!? You can also program your driver's seat to automaticaly move to a specific possition ... with a specirfic smart key... when it's unlocked with that key :D
  • expat69expat69 Posts: 2
    Do both of these options have to be programmed by a dealer?
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    No. It is in the manual. You just have to read and follow it.
  • wukwuk Posts: 12
    dumb question, since i think i know the answer...but the windows only open with the smart key, correct? Not the regular (Touring) key fob?

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    It works with the switchblade key as well.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    CX-9 has a special feature that allows two-step window opening.
    1st step open by 1 inch for venting. The 2nd step is as usual.
    This is programmable according to the WorkShop manual.
    If you are interested, let me know. I will send you a copy of it.
    Personally, I love the two-step. One can change it back and forth w/o
    having to go to dealers.
  • murrman67murrman67 Posts: 6
    So far I can only get my sunroof to open. If you can send or post the 2 step programming from the WS manual, that would be great. Thanks.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Here is the word by word quote from the workshop manual.
    Proceed at your own risk 8-)
    By following the procedure below, the two-step down function is switched to non-operational when it is operative, and to operative when it is non-operative.

    1. Perform the following within 5 seconds
    - Turn the ignition to ON position
    - Perform auto open two times
    - Perform auto close two times

    2. Turn the ignition to OFF position

    3. Start the following procedure within 43 seconds

    4. Perform the following within 5 seconds
    - Turn the ignition to ON position
    - Perform auto open two times
    - Perform auto close two times

    # switching completed
  • From manual, it says that with Keyless entry system, press unlock button once, then press it again within 1.5 seconds and hold. After the doors and the liftgate are unlocked, the two front windows and the moonroof open while the unlock button is pressed.However, my car just opens the sunroof only. The two front power windows still remain closed. Any idea, how to fix the issue?
  • I found the solution in the manual:

    1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    2. Make sure that the power window lock
    switch located on the driver's door is not
    3. Press the switch and fully open the power
    4. Pull up the switch to fully close the power
    window and continue holding the switch for
    about 2 seconds after the window fully
    5. Repeat Steps 3-4 for each front power
    6. Make sure that the power windows operate
    correctly using the door switches
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    In my view, debugging this is not that difficult.
    First, there is a central unit. Second, there are several sensors in doors, hatch and ceiling. Third, the fob. It seems to me, the fob is not the problem ('cause your dealer has changed that.). To rule out the sensors, try to unlock from both front doors and the hatch. Do they all have the same problem? If yes, then the central unit needs to be replaced. If no, one of the sensors is bad. According to your description, "open or close the doors or even start", it seems that the chance of multiple sensor failure simultaneously is very small. Therefore, I am betting on the central unit. Dealer has the workshop manual to diagnose the issue, step by step. Mazda provides a very thorough procedure for debugging SmartKey. I think your dealer is a bit on the lazy side. If I were you, I would go to another dealer if another one is closeby.

    Cell phone is known to interfere with SmartKey. It is not a myth. Certain places also have strong interence (such as radio stations, airport, etc.) Your SmartKey may behave strangely. However, this does not seem to apply to you.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    The workshop manual contains a simple procedure to diagnose SmartKey problem. Here is the procedure:
    - Turn the ignition to ON position
    - Verify the security light (the red key-shape light between the round meters)
    - If there is any malfunction
    > After any malfunction is detected, the security light will function as follow for approx. 1 minute
    <> DTC 16 and lower (error code): Flashes
    <> DTC 21 and higher: Illuminated
    - If there is no malfunction
    > The security light illuminates for approx 3 seconds and goes out

    So, please follow the procedure to see if there is any malfunction that the system self-detects. If yes, there is another table showing the flash patterns (like Morse codes) and their corresponding problems.
    Here is a list. Legend: P means a flash. S means no flash.

    PSPSSSSSS -> No detected communication with coil antenna
    PSPPSSSSS -> Coil malfunction
    PSPPPSSSS -> key ID data cannot be read/key ID registration error
    PSPPPPSSS -> keyless control module cannot read key ID number data normally
    PSPPPPPSS -> keyless control module has detected unregistered key ID number
    PSPPPPPPS -> communication error between keyless control module and the PCM (mismatched conditions)
    PPSPSSSSS -> only one key ID number is registered
    PPSPPSSSS -> communication error between keyless control module and the PCM (data transfer error)
    PPSPPPSSS -> ID number data in the PCM and the keyless control module do not match
    -> keyless control module malfunction

    Hope this helps you. :)
  • prd3prd3 Posts: 6
    I apologize for not responding sooner but have been busy.Didn't want you to think I have been ignoring you. I will follow your recommended steps and get back to you. In the meantime have a pleasnt weekend.

  • prd3prd3 Posts: 6
    Good morning Ceric. I checked the security light as per your instructions and found no malfunction when turn the ignition to the ON position. The security light illuminated for 3 secs and then went out. I had the keyless entry card with me at all times when checking this out. I also tried opening and closing the hatch and front doors as you suggested and encountered no problems. also tried the sunroof.

    By the way what is the "fob" ?
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    "fob" is another term for remote control unit. In this case, the key card.

    So, if all doors and hatch behave similarly and there is no abnormal flashing of the dash light, it leaves with two possibilities
    - Keyless Control Module & Coil Antenna.
    Anyway, this what the workshop manual suggests. Dealer would probably have to replace either of the two and try. Replacing the KCM is more troublesome since one needs to reprogram all the keycards. If I were the mechanic, I would probably try the Coil Antenna first. :sick:
  • prd3prd3 Posts: 6
    Thanks again. I am still waiting for my dealer to get back to me. He says they are stumped and are awaiting directions from MAZDA main office in Toronto.
  • prd3prd3 Posts: 6
    Well I am back with two new keyless cards (supplied by the dealer) which seem to be working so far. They were never able to clarify the problem for me and they acknowledged they were stumped. However, while I was waiting for the new cards to arrive I experimented with my old ones making sure they were not in close contact with any metal objects and wireless transmissions (coins, keys, pocket knives cell phones etc). Well this seemed to make the trick because the card started working normally again without a hitch. So I am following this practice with the new cards and keeping them separate. I believe that having them on a key chain is asking for trouble in the long run because the problem doesn't manifest itself right away. The troubleshooting section for the keyless card in the manual does mention the possibility of interference from metal objects and the such. One of these days I will pick up enough courage to confirm my observations and put the card back on a key chain.

    Thanks for your help

  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    So, you got two brand new keycards from dealers under warranty, correct?

    I knew that SmartKey interferes with cell phones and have troubles working in high EMF areas (such as near airports or radio stations). I have no trouble with my SmartKey on keychains. Metals may cause EMF bounce and may attenuate the signal a bit. However, I don't think there are enough area of metal to completely block the EMF from reaching your car's sensors. Interferences from cell phones is, however, not a myth. It has been reported frequently.
    I have SmartKey on my 2005 Prius as well. You can say that I have been using this technology since end of 2004 w/o issues.

    For me, I keep on cell on my belt, and keychain in the pocket. No problem of interference.
  • prd3prd3 Posts: 6
    Thanks for your prompt reply. You are correct I got them under warranty. Yes you are right about the area of keys etc on a chain being too small to block emf from the card. However the card EMF could be generating spurious fields on the keys over time that would eventually partially interfere with the card field????????????
  • deenamsdeenams Posts: 1
    Each of the keys have fallen out (and are gone) of the card (2007 CX-9). My dealer tested another key in each card and said that they were "not loose". I am furious--this should not happen! Despite the fact that the keys are no longer under warranty I think Mazda should cover the replacement cost, but the dealer (Wellesley Mazda, Wellesley, MA) refuses to do so.
  • gungagunga Posts: 16
    2011 CX-9 GT

    Live in a god area. Very seldom lock my car doors.
    I keep the key Fob in a zipped up jacket pocket.

    Yesterday, I tried locking the car by pushing the door lock button on the
    Door panel. It keep pooping back to unlock.

    Any way to lock the doors with-out using the fob. ?
  • I have a 2010 Mazda CX-9 (I forget which package -- it's the middle of the three choices). Our key is the "switch-blade" key that goes into the FOB. We have (had!) two of these.

    Well, one of ours got lost, so we now have one working one. I need to replace the lost one. Is there a way to do this w/o spending $300+ from the dealer? I think I've read that I could get one that is unprogrammed and uncut -- how would i get it cut and programmed? Would the one I already have still work, or do they both need to be programmed?

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  • I thought when you walk up to the car with FOB/SMART KEY in HAND and hold the black button down it would unlock the doors....well it works on the driver side BUT not on the pass. side; it flashes, beeps etc BUTdoes nothing???? I ALSO read that I thought you could program the car to LOCK after 30seconds when you walk away from the vehicle?help plz, dog doc, atlanta YES I read the manual PS what models had the AUTO REMOTE start, was that a factory or AFTERMARKET option.? :confuse:
  • Hope to find a solution from you guys!!

    Since last week I can't lock the doors of my 2008 CX9 neither with the FOB or with the black botton on the door. At first I thought it could do something with the battery in my smart key, so I changed it. No luck, the problem persists. What is funny is that I can open the trunk and start the car as normal (with FOB).

    Whenever I try to lock or unlock the doors with the FOB it just doesn't work and when I push the botton on the door to lock it I just get 6 beeps. The only way to lock the doors is by the using the auxiliary key

    Have you heard anything like this? Any Idea how to solve the problem?
  • I have aquired a new keyfob/smartkey for a 2010/2011 GT with power liftgate. My 08' w/power liftgate is the credit card size smart card. Can the new style be programmed by the dealer to work with the old system? I have called about 8 dealers. Some say no, all say they have never tried, and half say it might be possible. Anybody have any clues?
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Likely the sensor inside the driver's door is broken.
    Have you tried the passenger's side? Does it work on that side?
    You mentioned that it works at the hatch, which means the ECU still knows your fob (which is good...)
  • Have an 08 with advanced keyless credit card (with all symbols worn off!) and factory remote start.
    Recently was locked out by the remote start and could only get in by calling AAA and 'jimmying' the lock. (Long story about the 'key' falling out of the fob)
    This is how you do it if you want to :
    1 stop on level ground.
    2 leave in Drive and turn key off as far as it will go. (Rookie driver did this!)
    3 get out.
    4 come back later and start with remote start.
    5 BAM! locked out and will not respond to any command. Totally ignores you. When you press the button on the car, it senses on the fob by the redlight, but doesn't do anything.

    Anybody else either duplicate this or know a work around.


  • cloon52cloon52 Posts: 1
    The little rubber button has come off of my drivers door. I've tried to search for any replacement instructions but have come up with nothing. Can't even find a part number. I've yet to contact the dealer, as this seems like it shouldn't be a complicated fix.
    Anyone ever repaired/replaced that little rubber button?
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