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Need advice

elkin1elkin1 Member Posts: 3
In need of a truck that can pull 3 horse trailer(no camper) in Mts. Also will be used as a daily driver to transport my children in booster seats. Looking for something under $10k. V10, V8, di or gs, HD or SD. Whats your opinion?


  • 54225422 Member Posts: 6
    Well, you can get a truck for under 10 grand but it won't meet those needs. You can probably get a Super Duty for less than 20 grand with a diesel V10. 10 grand would get you a really older truck, and it would be more on repairs. You can easily find a Super Duty for about 20 or less at your local Ford dealer.
  • mglgmglg Member Posts: 1
    i am a rookie with truck issues is all that hard to change the rotors and brake pads on a f-150 supercrew 5.4 - money is tight so
  • spodeespodee Member Posts: 1
    My odometer stopped working at 197,000 miles and the trip meter stopped also. how can this be fixed with out having to replace the entire cluster? PLEASE ADVISE!!?!?!
  • kennybrookskennybrooks Member Posts: 3
    I have a 03 f250 xlt sd 2wd 4dr...
    What year tailgates are compatible?
  • mirandajomirandajo Member Posts: 1
    my screen has been busted on my F150 platinum edition what do i do an how much is it gonna cost help please
  • ford_man_69_22ford_man_69_22 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 83 ford f150 that losses oil pressure after the motor is warmed up but when i put a load on the motor i get oil pressure back and then when i take the load off i loss oil pressure again?
  • lecha1lecha1 Member Posts: 4
    ">I have a problem with my passenger power window. It is really weird because I can roll up and down the window if I use the switch in the passenger door, so I swapped the switches to see if the switch in the driver's side was bad, but my driver's side switch worked on the passenger's door; then I knew that the driver's side switch was good. I swapped them again and went back to the same situation. The weird part is that if I roll down the window using the passenger switch I can roll it up using the driver's switch. It is only that I can not roll down the passenger window using the driver's side switch. Is there any relay involved here?
  • tones1tones1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2003 F-150 Crew cab. I have a problem that my 4WD doesn't total disengage when I go out of 4WD and drives rough at 50MPH +. A ford dealer told me I need a new shift motor, cost ~ $300. I tried buying from a auto parts store and they cross referenced the ford number and gave me a 4WD actuator. I am not sure that this is the same part as the shift motor. This appears to run by vacuum. Could someone tell me where the shift motor is and a brief description on what iti looks like
  • dnjsyldnjsyl Member Posts: 3
    Hello, i have a 1998 F150, 4.6, auto,2 wheel drive. The air works fine, and the blend door does not appear to be broken. I have flushed the heater core out and it does not leak on the floor.The hoses get hot, well one gets real hot and the other gets pretty warm. I will get warmer air when i put heat on, but dont get hot air. I replaced the thermostat also. What else can it be? I have heard that the fins on the water pump get to worn to pump coolant properly, can this be it? It doesnt run real hot ....Please give me whatever advice you can...thankyou
  • elkin1elkin1 Member Posts: 3
    Sounds lika a circulation problem. Have you tried flushing the core with a water hose?
  • dnjsyldnjsyl Member Posts: 3
    elkin1.....Yes, as i wrote in my post, i have flushed out the heater core.....Do you think that the water pump might not be performing properly? The truck does not overheat, but maybe the fins in the water pump might be worn to the extent where it needs to be replaced. what do you think? thanks Don
  • elkin1elkin1 Member Posts: 3
    I think that i would put the water pump on the back burner for now. Never
    have heard that being a problem also you say one hose is hot and the other
    is warm. Is the hot hose hard as in under pressure and the warm hose is it
    hard?. Check the hardness of these hoses in clod engine and operating
    conditions for good pressure in hoses. also might have to check duck work
    could be a disconnected close to the core. Many things to check before
    pulling water pump. I would disconnect the hose coming from the water pump
    and see how much pressure it has also.
  • dnjsyldnjsyl Member Posts: 3
    Hey elkin1, guess what.....i tried everything that i could think of and your advise too. I finally went to Napa and got a new, not remanned but new water pump for $51 and put it on yesterday.....now i have heat.....not so much at an idle but when you r driving the heat is good.......i still cant figure it out though....the fins on the old pump looked like new........but something wasnt right...........it had good bearings and all from what i could see........what else is there in the pump to malfunction? thanks for all the advise.........this forum is pretty good thanks again Don
  • gooch11gooch11 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    I have a 2000 F250 superduty 5.4 gasoline chuggs at idle and when trying to maintain speeds it runs good when I excelerate. I checked all the wires to my injectors, when I removed them on at a time the motor started to chug when I removed the right side rear injector there wasnot a differece so I replaced that one still same problem any advice.
  • bassman73bassman73 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 ford f150 with a 302 hsd to change out the alternator after i was done fired up the truck ran great then put it into reverse and it died ,wont start now have no spark out of coil and out of dist have power to each but no spark also noticed that when the key on the on postion i cant hear then fuel pump prime anymore replaced the fp relay and still no sound or start at mywitts end any advice
  • learning6learning6 Member Posts: 1
    1. REVERSE flush the heater core
    2. Check to make sure the thermstat is not a by-pass thermostat
  • chaugheychaughey Member Posts: 4
    by now you have likely repaired this but may I contribute? All modern car use a coolant (radiator) designed system. as the engine heats up the water pump flows warmed coolant through hoses to the inside of the car/truck. inside the vehicle is a device that looks like a small radiator. this is called a heater core. If the system were simply this as the vehicle heated up the driving compartment would be so hot you couldn't breath. A fan is connected with the core to drive the heat generated by this core throughout the car. depending on circulate or fresh mode the fan will either draw exterior air through the core or simply draw air from the cabin through. the heat is controlled by the flow of the coolant past the core via a valve in the coolant hose path. it additionally operates a set of doors inside the cabin around this core. the doors (gates) divert air flow. this is best explained using the example of opening the rear door to the house and then the front . the air will start to flow toward the opposite door . close the hallway door and the flow stops and depending on how much the hall door is wedged open the flow is controlled. open the door to the bath before the hall and open the window you find the flow going to the bath. make sense? OK so in the case of defrost mode the air is diverted to the windshield to clear it. many cars kick on the A/C compressor in this mode to draw moisture from the air creating a faster drying of the glass. Hope this was educational to some
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