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Chevrolet Suburban 2004 - Time to change to a newer one

marvagmarvag Member Posts: 3
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
I have a 2004 Suburban Z71 with 53,000 Miles. The car is in great shape and I love it. The only problem that the car had was the bearings, this happened close to 40,000 miles (out of waranty). The GM changed the bearings and I asked them to pay part of it as this problem should not happen so soon. GM paid for the labor and I did pay the parts (that was expensive too).

Now the car have now 5 years and 53000 miles. I would like to get some feedback if I should change to a newer car or keep this car.
I worry about the maintenance cost that can start to happen.

I was looking at the Crevrolet Traverse LTZ 2009. This is the only car that can fit 7 confortably that is not a minivan or a big SUV (tahoe, suburban, etc).

The Suburban is out of question because of the price, to high for me at this moment.

I will be paying 29,000 for this Traverse (after tax, etc) giving my car as downpayment. Is this a good deal. The price tag of this Traverse was 41,000 (after cashback and rebates).

Any feedback about the Suburban maintenace after 5 years will be great. I don't know about the issues that can happen with this car and the costs associated with them.

Thank you!!!


  • mo_shade_treemo_shade_tree Member Posts: 7
    Hello Marvaq -

    I too have a 2004 Suburban LT w/Autoride. I currently have 105,000 miles on it. It has been as trouble free as any import that I have owned. If I would have read these message boards when I was looking I would not have purchased one - But I'm glad I did. I've changed the oil every 3K - not whating for the change oil light to appear. I replaced (GM extended warrenty) a switch @ 15K because the service 4wd light appeared. Front axle seals @ 47K (GM extended warrenty), Water pump @58K (GM extended warrenty) and a Battery @ 68K. I've changed the transmission fluid (Not Flush) @50K and changed the engine coolant when the water pump was changed. The brakes are just starting to make noise, so it's time for pads and maybe rotors.

    The only other issue that I've had was gas mileage. I was getting 17-19 mpg until about 17K, then it went to 14-15 mpg. Because no check engine light, dealer was clueless and useless. Around 70K, it when to 12-13 mpg. Dealer still no help. I've been reading on the boards that the intake is probably leaking and perhaps a loose wire on the MAP sensor. So - before the summer is over, I'll tune her up, change the wires, re-torque the intake and check the wires on the MAP sensor.

    The truck is used for soft off-roading (Camping, Fishing), some towing (Flat bed trailer w/car attached), daily commuter / road trip vacations.

    Very pleased with the truck - Just hope when I get ready to trade her in - hopefully @ 200K, that GM will (1) Still be in business and (2) still making BOF trucks. ;)
  • jhislopjhislop Member Posts: 1
    Hi - first post here at Edmunds. We have a 02 Tahoe that I bought in 04, taken it to Israel, back to Texas, to The Netherlands and now back to here in Wash, DC. Mileage is almost at 90k and it runs great.

    Besides normal oil changes, I've replaced the intermediate steering shaft (that was driving me crazy in Israel when turning), replaced the brake pads/all discs and rear calipers (which both locked down on the discs destroying the discs). We have replaced the tires twice (once from the dry walls cracking), replaced the plugs with iridium's at 80k along with new GM spark wires as the others ones were getting brittle. We have no/zero faults on the sensors and love the truck except one thing - the gas mileage has been getting worse and worse.

    When we first bought the Hoe we were able to getting about 18-20 mpg on the freeway and 15 mpg in the city (300-400 per tank). Now it is lucky to get 15 mpg on the freeway and 11 in the city (250-300 per tank).

    I've researched this topic here on Edmunds and on the web, found a few suggestions and recommendation but is there any one specific problem out there which has been identified? Seems I've done everything except changing out the 02 sensors. Any ideas and suggestions out there?

  • 4grlzma4grlzma Member Posts: 2
    I have an 04 Suburban and while driving today, the interior lights came on, the doors were unlocking and locking and "Driver Door Ajar" displayed on the dash. I stopped to check the doors.. all closed.. the lights stay on the whole time while driving and do not go off when ignition is off. Had to disconnect battery for them to go off. Any help greatly appreciated!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check that the drivers door switch is working correctly, would be the obvious first step
  • 4grlzma4grlzma Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, we did that first!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The interior (and exterior) lights are controlled by a computer called the BCM - Body Control Module. The door switches, instead of directly turning a light on in days of old, now just send a signal to the BCM. The BCM just uses that door switch as 'one' of it's inputs, in determining what interior and/or exterior lights to turn on.

    If you have metered out the door switch and find it to be working correctly (that is the recommended first step in shooting this problem), then the problem would lie either within the BCM itself, or in one of it's other inputs. (You checked for corrosion in the switch connector, right?)

    The only way to troubleshoot further, is via a BCM scan tool which the dealership has. The scan tool can check that all of the switches are working correctly, and that the BCM is responding correctly to those inputs.

    Just thought of one other thing.....make sure your battery is fully charged and has no corrosion on it. You should be sitting a little less than 14volts. With an '04 if that is the original battery, you are way overdue to replace it.
  • ramtireramtire Member Posts: 1
    Has anybody else had a problem with their tires cracking, appear to be dry rotting next to rim but tires were manufactured Feb 2008.
This discussion has been closed.