When you get a chance, go to your dealer and test drive another V70 (or S60 for that matter) and see if you get the same results. At least that way you could then give your service department a demonstration in both cars. If I was close to Phoenix, I'd let you try mine.
Local dealer is asking $25k for a demo with auto trans, premium pkg, climate pkg, and integrated booster seats. TMV for new is $32k. I'm having a hard time determining if the markdown is right considering the 15k miles. Any advice on this price? Also, should I still expect to pay destination charge?
conbug .. The different vehicle test drive is exactly what I am gonna do soon as it cools off ... but I want to limit it to V70 2.4T so I don't get more of "its a different car jazz" ...Today I decided I would be very happy with it if I never had to slow down .. It is really pretty nice until I have to slow ... :<) .. Rgds..
Today I went to put gas in our 2001 V70 2.4T, and the fuel filler door came right off in my hand. Is this a problem others have experienced? Looks like there's some broken plastic on the hinge attached to the car, but also looks like a bad design that must have failed for a lot of people.
I have a 2003 V70 wagon for about 6 months now. The air conditioning got extremely cold this week on my way home, I adjusted the temperature and then the air was blowing out hot air. The service department at Volvo of Athens told me it was a bad sensor and would have to order the part, since this does not usually go out. Anyone else experience this situation? Also, my drivers seat is beginning to make noise when I slow down for stop lights?????? Please assist! This car is much louder than my 2001 and 2002 Honda Accord.
I went the local Vovlo dealership in Athens, GA to price cross profile bars. I have a 2003 V70 wagon. The cross profile bars on Volvo accesories indicate these should cost around $300.00, the parts department at the dealership indicated these would cost $1150.00 since they will have to change out the top side pieces of the car for the bars? Is this true? I think they are trying to make more money. I am going to price these at the dealership in Atlanta, GA where I purchased my car. I am not pleased with Volvo of Athens dealership and service department to begin with, which is one reason I did not purchase my new wagon from this dealership, the next closet dealership is 50-70 miles from Athens, GA.
Been a long time since I have read or posted on the Volvo forums. Good to be back.
My wife and I have an American spec. T5 wagon (tiptronic)in Germany and it is a blast. We bought it in August '02 as the '03s were being introduced here in Europe. This car is made to run, and run hard. I doubt many of you have been to the governor with your turbo Volvos but I have and they love it. The faster you drive the tighter the car gets, just like our 535i.
Our car has just under 12K miles on it and I can definitely say I have experienced some of the driveability issues some of you have commented on. The posts about stumbling by k7hp are also a concern of mine. I have had this problem explained to me as an emissions issue and for gas mileage. Doesn't sound related but it does make sense. It is also related to the early brake pad replacements and brake dust on the wheels.
When you think about someone wanting to get the most horsepower out of a car targeted for 20-26 mpg and try to get this same car to be a 'green' car with the tree huggers, they have to make changes to help them meet their goals.
The transmission does 'disengage' when you don't have your foot on the gas. When I put my foot back on the pedal at slower speeds it does take a second and I can feel it 'come back into gear'. This is why your cars coast for so long when you take your foot off the gas and why your brake pads wear so badly. There is very little engine braking, as you would get in a manual, with this transmission. Is this bad? Only if it shows long term wear problems, or if it wears on you!
As for the fit, finish and interior, I have more issues. This car is not a BMW or a high end Japanese import. The materials for the door pulls are VERY cheap, fit of the glove box is not good by design, and there are visibility issues as mentioned in previous posts (mostly due to the side air bags in the B pillar).
Would I trade it for a V70R or a manual trans? No. The turbo lag with the manual trans is not good (drove an S0 T5 manual 2 weeks ago and didn't like the lag), and there is no way I would really (and legally)use the R's fun in the states. I'll return to the states next summer after a stint in Iraq.
Hope my rambling has cleared up some issues. Hang in there. These cars are very nice but do have idiosyncrasies.
Oh, Volvomax, I know your post telling the details of the V70 model engines was way back, but just to clarify/update: The '03 XC70 has a 208HP engine, as do the '04 S60 2.5T and V70 AWD and XC70.
Don't all automatics disengage when you take your foot off the gas? I know in my Acura CL, if I'm cruising along at, say 30 - 40 mph, and take my foot off the gas, the revs will go right down to about 1K. And then as soon as I just barely touch the throttle, the revs will shoot back up to 2000 - 2500 or so. So is the problem with the Volvo tranny more has to do with the time it takes the tranny to re-engage? And is that a software problem that can be rectified?
The dealer is pricing the Euro Rail roof rack to you. The cross bars go over top of the roof rack. Actually the dealer should be able to cut the moldings on the roof to install the euro rails. You should not have to buy new moldings.
I now own a large Mitsubishi SUV and love it. However, my wife and I are now commuting about 25 miles each way to a new jobs. Considering gas prices, we are looking for a safe but nice commuting car that gets 10-15 more mpg than our Montero. I have looked at several used wagons, including the Audi and Saab. Yesterday I drove an 01 V70 T5 and came away impressed. Nice power, comfortable seats, great audio. The cheap “wood” stuff on the door handles, the blind spots and that disconcerting downshift thump were downers but not deal killers.
So here are the general questions.
Reliability. Having had an iron-clad Mitsubishi, Subaru and Mazda, I’m worried about maintenance costs and that $500 bill every time something goes wrong.
Actual costs to own: Does the T5 require premium fuel? That would factor into the gas cost savings equation.
Actual room in the back. The Saab’s back looked cavernous. By contrast, seems as though the back area in the Volvo was much smaller. Fair to say that any long trip requires a rocket box.
Third seat. What’s the real deal regarding the reverse seat? The dealer said the kid has to be 100 pounds. Seems to me that I’ve generally seen kids smaller than that back there. We have an infant so it doesn't matter as much now.
My next move is to drive an 01 2.4 to see if there is much power difference.
First, the dealer is off on the required weights/limits on the rear seat in the wagon. Grab a current year brochure next time you are in. I believe the weight limit is from 50-85 lbs. I don't have the owners manual in front of me but those numbers are very close. No adults in the third row seat.
As for the roominess, I have not driven the Saab wagon but they do look a bit larger. My wife and I have packed a bunch of antiques in the back of our wagon. Not as big as our Yukon, but plenty of room. The only real way to tell if the Saab is actually larger is to look at cargo capacity numbers on this site or MSN Carpoint. Use the current year models for the best results.
The fuel mileage will be quite a bit better than your Montero but not as good as a 2.4T or 2.5T, depending on the year you choose. They are not as fun to drive, though, and ride differently. The type of driving we do achieves less than you will as far as fuel mileage is concerned. We get 21 mpg mixed driving but cruise between 85 and 90 mph on the highway. There is also a lot of merging and stop and go in our commute.
The T5 should be fed premium fuel.
I don't know about reliability. We have had several things done under warranty but no real problems. Just getting the bugs worked out. The most serious was the O2 sensor. It gave us a check engine light. Our car is an '01 and has 12k miles on it. So far the dealer has been good to us and we expect that when we bring the car back to the US, also. Our warranty period did not start until AUG '02 and we have 4 yrs 50k miles (Europe special) to 'work the bugs out. As with any used car, you have to hope the previous owner got some bugs out, too.
Good luck with your decision. Both are nice cars. I like the styling of the Volvo better, but, that is me.
If you want you can install temporary load bars directly to the roof of the car. If you look in the rain channel in your V70 you will see a couple of metal clips. These are to secure the load bars. I have a set for my C70 they work great. Otherwise you can install the traditional Volvo Roof Rack and the cross bars. The load bars are cheaper and can be removed when not in use.
The V70 2.4T (and other Volvos) completely disengages .. just goes into freewheeling .. just like a manual transmission car with the clutch depressed. I have not driven an Accura but my daughter has an Accord and it does somewhat like you describe .. but that is just the torque converter .. torque convertors have a "stall speed" at some rpm at which it essentially becomes a straight thru connection.. You can get an idea of the stall speed if you just lock the brakes and rev the engine up for a second .. it will pretty much reach some speed like 2500 or 3000 rpm and that will be it .. don't do this for more than a second or two .. it heats up the fluid really fast .. all that horsepower gets converted to heat.. The hotrodders with automatics buy special torque converters with higher rpm stall speeds so they can hold the brakes on at the starting line and get the engine rpm up to get a better launch.
I drive a Canadian edition of a 2002 V70 T5. It has automatic daylights: the low beams, front, side, rear and interior controls lights are always on when the motor is running. Even those which light up the license number! I don't like that; it's wasting of gas (to produce electricity) and light bulbs. I asked my dealer to remove that device and connect only the fog lights to have it on once the motor is started. He refused, arguing that will make the computer display an error code. Anybody have a solution? Could I have an US lights control installed? I live in Montreal and I could go to a New England dealer if necessary. Sorry for my English, I live in French.
Its not a device, its software. For the US the only options are off or on. Either you shut the DRL system down, which is against Canadian law I believe, or you leave it alone.
That must be a weird feeling, to be crusing along and then all of a sudden the car goes into complete "freewheel". Almost makes me want to testdrive one just to experience what it's really like!
But I wonder if this is actually deliberately done by Volvo for safety reasons. For FWD car, or a FWD-biased car such as the Volvo AWD models, if you're coasting downhill on a slippery surface, engine-braking may cause the front wheels to lose traction which would be disastrous if you're going around a curve. But this would not happen if the transmission completely disengages.
I think volvomax had earlier kindly explained this to me but your post sort of "revived" the confusion. It appears the Canadian Volvos really has a simplified lighting system. As soon as the motor is started all the lights come on. There is no "reduced intensity" for DRL like on other cars, and you also don't need to switch the lights on at night since they are always on. So I guess the only use for the light stalk is to turn the high beans on the off. This might explain why quite a few people have reported unusual high frequency of burned-out light bulbs.
I have an 01 V70 T5 and I have the same complaint regarding the lights... sorry, sounds like US version is the same as the Canadian! When the car is on, all the lights are on. The only difference between the "off" position and the "on" position is that you can't turn on high beams in the off position. Why does Volvo do this?? Our 98 Cross Country was the same way. I find it very annoying and have had many a bulb burn out in both of my V70s... seems obvious that all the complaints about bulbs burning out in Volvos can be attributed to the fact that they are ALWAYS ON!
You CAN turn off the drl's on the US cars. On a 98 Cross Country there is a small screw on the light switch panel.Turn it and the drl's turn off. On the current Volvo's a software download has to be performed. In Canada I thought the law mandated drl's to be on always. Mine are off btw on my C70.
As just mentioned, we have an 01 V70 T5 with about 32,000 miles on it. We absolutely love the car... it is really sporty driving and looking.
As far as reliability, no major problems at all. The only exception doesn't really have anything to do with the car itself, but rather the tires. The 17" "upgraded" Pirelli tires are complete junk. I had 3 of them develop sidewall bulges from hitting ordinary potholes, and in one instance the wheel itself cracked... very expensive. I replaced them with BF Goodrich GForce tires... I have not had a single problem since, and the Goodriches are better performing.
Aside from the tires, the only other problem was a broken mechanical cupholder that slides out from the dash (it wouldn't "squeeze" the drink)... fixed under warranty.
As already mentioned, yes you must use Premium fuel in the T5, but I think Premium is also required for the 2.4T.
Interior capacity is almost identical to the Saab 9-5 wagon (37.5 vs. 37 cu.ft. luggage; 72 vs. 73 cu.ft. total cargo (seats down)).
I had the same problem with sidewall bulges and cracked wheels from potholes. Mine were Michelin. I upped the tire inflation to 32/33 and it made a big difference. That extra air acts as an additional shock absorber on those holes.
My V-70 wagon has 42K on it and is almost at the end of the factory warranty. I shopped around for the best price on an extended warranty and the best I can get is almost $2000, plus an additional $100 each visit. Should I take my chances and forget an extension? Like some opinions please.
bodble2 ... It does not dis-engage at constant speed , just when you are off the accelerator .. then as you are slowing down at some speed (have not figured out how they determine this ) I have seen it from around 30- 35 mph down to as low as 20 mph it will completely disengage .. and since you have had some engine braking to that point , it almost feels like its speeded up at first .. but again it feels just like a manual transmission when you push in the clutch as you are slowing down ...Your comments about sliding on snow/ice are valid ... but I would far prefer to do the disengaging on my own .. not at the whim of some automatic decision .. fortunately here in Phoenix that is not an issue !!!!!
You're right about DRL being required by law in Canada. But most manufacturers use reduced-intensity high beam but tail lights and interior lights are not on.
I can't guess what Volvo's rationale to have all the lights on all the time.
A few problems with stickshift for me. 1. Traffic so lousy in Phoenix that you would wear out the throwout bearing unless went to neutral and just completely sat there. 2. Wife does not want a stick shift. 3. Worst problem is bad left hip that cannot handle holding clutch in very long .. oh well ..But I still contend that at least MY 2003 V70 2.4T is a pitiful joke as far as drive train. I see you are looking for a V70 going from a 740 .. I went from two 960's to the V70 and have regretted it ever since... Shame on me.
Thanks volvomax. You said US Volvos may have the DRL (and all others lights) turned off by downloading a software. My dealer says he can't do that because it's against the law. Do you think an US dealer could download this software on my car and connect only the low beams, or the fog lights, to get on once the motor is started?
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As far as I know, the software is on or off only. There isn't any provision for changing the light pattern if you will. Also, being a Canadian spec car, the program might not work. The onboard computer could refuse it.
Sheiatt and others. Thanks for the response. We are going to stick with the Montero for now. The costs of substituting a 0% 60 month loan for any loan on a used volvo appears to outweight our heightened gasoline outlay.
The reason given to me for the transmission disconnect is not for safety reason but for fuel economy. A car that coasts for long periods while your foot is off the gas will get better MPG EPA ratings than one that engine brakes when you take your foot off the gas.
As I mentioned a few days ago, this lack of engine braking contributes to the front brake pad wear and brake dust problems mentioned since the '01 V70's came out. In fact, the dust build-up was mentioned as one of the concerns in a major magazine review of the V70 when it was introduced. This is a huge concern in Europe, the land of the tail-gaters and Germany's unlimited speed limits.
Does anyone have infants riding in their V70s? I have a new (two week old) concern. When reading the rear facing car seat instructions, it said not to install the seat in the middle of the rear seat where there is a fold down arm rest. The reason is obvious in a crash sequence. The volvo manual does not address it at all, but only talks about the built in booster cushions.
My question: Why would the most safety conscious car manufacturer in the world not have a latch or release pull for that arm rest so infants could ride in the safest possible spot in a vehicle? I now have to put the baby in one of the outboard seats where he is more vulnerable in an accident.
I haven't looked really hard at the V70's rear seat, but is it possible to remove the armrest without permanently damaging the seat, and in such a manner as to be able to put it back?
It has been a while since I posted to this board. I was concerned about having to take a cross country if I wanted to get an AWD off of a Dealer's lot. In the mean time, I did take a XC70 out for a test drive. Felt fine I guess, although it really did not make a huge impression on me. I have considered perhaps Audi A6 avant but the price looks to be a good $5000 difference. Seems that XC70's with premium package, 4 CD in dash changer and booster seats can be had for less than $35K, which I believe is just below "invoice". Edmunds indicates a current $2000 back to dealer incentive through October 31. How much lower are these cars actually selling for these days? My car needs are (1) 4wd as we live in New England and our 2 other cars are FWD, (2)cannot be an SUV according to the wife-we also have an Odyssey so there's really no need for something that big and (3) need to be able to carry 7 year old, 4 year old and 1 year old in back seat occasionally. Audi A4 and VW products seem too small in the back seat for the latter. Besides, I am a bit leary of VW/Audi for niggling things that I really do not want to spend the time on (maybe another japanese car is in order?). Comments are appreciated.
Have not even thought about taking the rear arm rest out of the $1300 leather interior. Not sure why I should have to. If I could, and I may try, this would help many with the issue I have. I don't want to, but it might be the best thing for my child's safety. Why should I have to is another story. Again I must ask, why would Volvo design that seat without a latched pull or some devise so the arm rest would not come down on my child in a crash and harm him?
Your second 906 question: I do have the T5 with the Geartronic that 'freewheels'. That is such a bad way of describing what actually happens with the XMSN but if that's what people want to use for a XMSN that lets the car coast forever, that's fine. It saves fuel and that is very important here in Europe when gas is more than $4/gallon.
Most of the Europeans drive stick shifts and diesels to save gas. Their diesels cannot even be had in the states because we use a lesser grade fuel than they do. But, a TDI Audi or a CDI Mercedes will last a whole lot longer than our engines and blow many of our cars away. Their Diesel technology is great compared to ours. When you think back to the diesel craze of the early 80's in the states and the noisy stinky problems they had, our consumers are turned off to them.
Not saying Diesel is the way to go for the US, but it is in Europe.
Our Volvo does what we need it to so far, with very few problems. It is a blast to drive on the Autobahn but a 5 or 6 speed would be even more fun. Driving a wagon at 125 or 130 MPH is amazing, but these do it with grace.
Well, I guess I'm a little confused about your issue with the armrest to begin with. I see where you're coming from, re: the armrest swinging down, but wouldn't a properly secured rear-facing seat block its movement? I know that in our 740, our stationary base even without the seat/carrier mounted was tall enough to block the armrest's movement. It really wasn't an issue. Maybe I'll check it out on a new V70's rear seat when I'm down at the parts counter at my local Volvo joint (which, sadly, is happening with greater frequency these days. It IS a 14 year old car, after all!) I suggested removing the armrest only if there was a means to do it non-destructively and in such a manner that would allow for its reinstallation when appropriate.
Also, when going down a long hill, have you tried putting the Geartronic in manual mode? I don't know if it'd work; I'm just wondering aloud if putting it in, say, 4th manually would hold it in that gear. Worth a shot, anyway.
I know diesels have come a long way; I've been eyeing a Golf TDi as a possible replacement for my wife's car ('94 Accord,) as she's got a longish commute. The thing that gives me pause, though, is the extreme cold temperatures we get in the winter here in Iowa and their gelling effect on diesel fuel. I know that the US is supposed to start refining "European grade" (for lack of a better word) diesel in the next several years. We'll see what technological refinements vis a vis cold weather performance that brings.
I am in the process of finalizing the re-purchase by Audi of my new 2003 A6 Quattro under the "Lemon Law". (If interested in that story, let me know....)
We test drove an '04 XC70 with pretty much the standard options (Premium, Booster Seats (which are really cool - and fit our needs well) and a handful of other items that make this car sticker around $39,400. My wife is really eager to move forward on this car once we get our settlement payment from Audi.
What are others paying for the new 2004 XC70? I heard about the $2K rebate. I realize that this is a dumb question, but I assume that should be incremental to any and all other discounts I can negotiate, right? It seems that there are a lot of deals going on with Volvos right now. What should I expect to pay?
I re registered as my paswword was at work. I would be very interested in hearing your Lemon story. I drove both the XC70 and a '03 A6 Avant quattro this past Friday afternoon. I am definately leaning towards the Volvo but the Audi seems to have the edge for appearances/design/sportiness. The V6 engine is definately smoother at low revs (no smoother than my Odyssey's V6 however)than the XC70 but merging onto freeway and zipping along at 80-90 there's not much of a difference. I was struck by he A6's interior. I can only describe it as the opposite of heavy. There is something about the tops of the door panels which seems so unobtrusive. However, a few things that bothered me: The drivers seat was not particularly comfortable, the throttle was hard to control smoothly at low speeds, the console was way too busy, the price was still around 40 grand before tax etc. The Volvos that are currently available in my area come with premium and touring pkgs, child booster and xenia spoke wheels. Depending on metallic paint (extra $450) or not (white and black), the MSRP is approx $39K and the dealer wants $35K. They have a bunch of them on the lot. The above price includes the $2000 rebate to dealer. As the invoice (according to Edmunds) is about $36, I guess the dealer is making about $1000? Perhaps htere is other cash to dealer stuff going on behind the scenes? One thing I am not not crazy about the XC is the color combo's. The plastic cladding is either brown or blue. The blue looks looks really odd with the silver, which is normally a color I like. The green looks nice with the brown cladding. The rest of the colors don't look like they belong on a $40K car,perhaps this is why they have a bunch of cars on their hands? I'm located in Fairfield County, CT and I'm looking to buy in the next several weeks. Let me know what your Volvo dealer experiences have been and , of course, anything you might have to say that looking at the A^ is a waste of time.
I dont see how it could possibly cause any harm anyway. It should be restricted by the infant car seat itself, as another poster pointed out, but even were it not, it doesn't weigh enough to do any damage. Its also pretty tightly wedged into the seat when its up.
I suspect this is simply an example of lawyers covering their clients rear end.
If anything, I would guess the risk of being injured by a falling arm rest is insignificant compared to the risk of being injured by unsecured cargo flying around the cabin after impact.
I will try to paraphrase my Audi Lemon Law experience, but it is pretty hard to do....
I got the 2003 A6 Quattro 3.0 the first of March. There were some great lease deals going on and frankly I couldn't find a $42K car that I liked as much that could also be had for $400/month. I like the color and features and it seemed like an easy decision. I completed the deal in less than 30 minutes.
From the start, the car had a vibration that would appear between 40 and 75 mph. It is slight, but definitely noticeable. I took the car repeatedly to my local dealer, who I will say treated me EXTREMELY well. I have nothing but positive things to say about them. I always had a similar new loaner and they treated me respectfully.
Anyway, they kept trying new/different things including: 2 new sets of tires, 1 new set of rims (upgraded 17" wheel package), new drive shaft, new transmission ($14K itself!!!), new front differential and most recently a new rear differential was ordered. In total, there is well in excess of $20K in repairs done to my car in its 6 months and over 7 weeks in the shop.
Given the amount of time I now qualify for the Lemon Law. So far Audi has been VERY easy to deal with. I do have a problem with their most recent settlement statement in that it clearly leaves out one resolution that I understand I am entitled to under Ohio law (full refund of ALL monies paid from day 1.) They are willing to upgrade me to a 2004 A6 2.7T (twin turbo) at no cost to me (about a $5K upgrade, plus one model year newer.)
So now I am waiting to get my final resolution with them. Seriously, in spite of all this, I am still very keen on Audis and I am convinced my car is just a bad one that got through. I am not at all mad at Audi as they have treated me well thus far and have made every effort to ensure I am happy. I would buy another again tomorrow.
The reason I am looking at the XC70 is that my wife is a "take the money and run" person and she really wants to simply cash out the lease and go buy (versus lease) something else. She drove the XC70 over the weekend and really likes it. So I am weighing out that option.
I have not yet talked any pricing with the Volvo dealer, but based on what I am reading, approx $35K range sounds reasonable with the current $2K rebate. Sounds like you are seeing the same thing.
Personally I like the Audi's looks and handling, but I don't think I can touch it at the price of the Volvo if I am going to get out of the lease and do a purchase. I really do like the Audi and the Quattro system is excellent. The Volvo has price on its side and the wagon configuration, along with the built-in booster seats (which I need) are a real plus in its favor.
At the risk of belabouring the point, '04 XC70 has HID as an option. It's one thing to have regular halogen lights on all the time, but to have HID on day and night....I think Volvo should rethink its lighting system.
I'd assume the XC70's HID setup is the same as the R's. In the R, there are separate halogen bulbs for the DRLs. The HIDs come on automatically via light sensor, which also shuts down the DRLs when the headlights are on.
Things get a little confused with the lighting knob, which has the typical "off", "parking", and "on" positions. If the knob is in "off", then the DRLs and HIDs come on automatically as described above, but you cannot use the high beams. If the knob is on, the HIDs are on whenever the car is and you can use the high beams. To get from "off" to "on" at night to use the high beams, you must go through "parking". This move turns the headlights off for a second and then re-ignites them. This is rather annoying, especially if you're already driving, and given what it takes to ignite a HID bulb I imagine it's unnecessarily hard on the electronics.
You mean there is a separate set of halogen bulbs for DRL, or are those the same ones used for high beam? And when used for DRL, are they at reduced intensity? If not, I would think they would still be quite blinding for oncoming traffic even in daylight.
The Bi-Xenon system works as both high and low beam. In hi beam mode the xenon reflector tilts up to cast the light farther ahead. The small round lights next to the xenon reflector are the DRL lights. With the headlight switch in the OFF position the DRLs are on and the Xenons are turned on in low light situations. With the switch in the ON position the DRLs are off and the Xenons are on always
My wife and I are looking to buy a second car, intended to handle all the family duties that our Toyota Prius cannot. Having scoured the market, I am left with the "larger" Volvo wagons and Subaru Outbacks as my options. At this point, my wife and I are leaning in the direction of Volvo, but aren't sure about whether we should get a basic v70 or an xc70. Safety is primary, which is why we like Volvo, but we are also concerned about things like resale value, reliability, winter driving, etc. We are expected a baby at the end of January and whichever car we buy may need to get us through 20 miles of snow when she goes into labor. Although, truth be told, there may not be much snow driving in general. So, is it FWD or AWD? Is AWD really worth it for people who mostly stick to highways and suburban roads? Is the third seat worth it, especially since this is our first child? How does the Volvo Navigation System perform? We love the NAV system in our Prius and hate the idea of going without it in this new vehicle. Should we get the booster seats? Why does Volvo sell everything in packages instead of allowing you to pick each option you really want? Is overseas delivery worth it or are there really great deals on new Volvo wagons in the US right now?
Comments
Good Luck!
This car is much louder than my 2001 and 2002 Honda Accord.
Been a long time since I have read or posted on the Volvo forums. Good to be back.
My wife and I have an American spec. T5 wagon (tiptronic)in Germany and it is a blast. We bought it in August '02 as the '03s were being introduced here in Europe. This car is made to run, and run hard. I doubt many of you have been to the governor with your turbo Volvos but I have and they love it. The faster you drive the tighter the car gets, just like our 535i.
Our car has just under 12K miles on it and I can definitely say I have experienced some of the driveability issues some of you have commented on. The posts about stumbling by k7hp are also a concern of mine. I have had this problem explained to me as an emissions issue and for gas mileage. Doesn't sound related but it does make sense. It is also related to the early brake pad replacements and brake dust on the wheels.
When you think about someone wanting to get the most horsepower out of a car targeted for 20-26 mpg and try to get this same car to be a 'green' car with the tree huggers, they have to make changes to help them meet their goals.
The transmission does 'disengage' when you don't have your foot on the gas. When I put my foot back on the pedal at slower speeds it does take a second and I can feel it 'come back into gear'. This is why your cars coast for so long when you take your foot off the gas and why your brake pads wear so badly. There is very little engine braking, as you would get in a manual, with this transmission. Is this bad? Only if it shows long term wear problems, or if it wears on you!
As for the fit, finish and interior, I have more issues. This car is not a BMW or a high end Japanese import. The materials for the door pulls are VERY cheap, fit of the glove box is not good by design, and there are visibility issues as mentioned in previous posts (mostly due to the side air bags in the B pillar).
Would I trade it for a V70R or a manual trans? No. The turbo lag with the manual trans is not good (drove an S0 T5 manual 2 weeks ago and didn't like the lag), and there is no way I would really (and legally)use the R's fun in the states. I'll return to the states next summer after a stint in Iraq.
Hope my rambling has cleared up some issues. Hang in there. These cars are very nice but do have idiosyncrasies.
Oh, Volvomax, I know your post telling the details of the V70 model engines was way back, but just to clarify/update: The '03 XC70 has a 208HP engine, as do the '04 S60 2.5T and V70 AWD and XC70.
The cross bars go over top of the roof rack.
Actually the dealer should be able to cut the moldings on the roof to install the euro rails.
You should not have to buy new moldings.
So here are the general questions.
Reliability. Having had an iron-clad Mitsubishi, Subaru and Mazda, I’m worried about maintenance costs and that $500 bill every time something goes wrong.
Actual costs to own: Does the T5 require premium fuel? That would factor into the gas cost savings equation.
Actual room in the back. The Saab’s back looked cavernous. By contrast, seems as though the back area in the Volvo was much smaller. Fair to say that any long trip requires a rocket box.
Third seat. What’s the real deal regarding the reverse seat? The dealer said the kid has to be 100 pounds. Seems to me that I’ve generally seen kids smaller than that back there. We have an infant so it doesn't matter as much now.
My next move is to drive an 01 2.4 to see if there is much power difference.
As for the roominess, I have not driven the Saab wagon but they do look a bit larger. My wife and I have packed a bunch of antiques in the back of our wagon. Not as big as our Yukon, but plenty of room. The only real way to tell if the Saab is actually larger is to look at cargo capacity numbers on this site or MSN Carpoint. Use the current year models for the best results.
The fuel mileage will be quite a bit better than your Montero but not as good as a 2.4T or 2.5T, depending on the year you choose. They are not as fun to drive, though, and ride differently. The type of driving we do achieves less than you will as far as fuel mileage is concerned. We get 21 mpg mixed driving but cruise between 85 and 90 mph on the highway. There is also a lot of merging and stop and go in our commute.
The T5 should be fed premium fuel.
I don't know about reliability. We have had several things done under warranty but no real problems. Just getting the bugs worked out. The most serious was the O2 sensor. It gave us a check engine light. Our car is an '01 and has 12k miles on it. So far the dealer has been good to us and we expect that when we bring the car back to the US, also. Our warranty period did not start until AUG '02 and we have 4 yrs 50k miles (Europe special) to 'work the bugs out. As with any used car, you have to hope the previous owner got some bugs out, too.
Good luck with your decision. Both are nice cars. I like the styling of the Volvo better, but, that is me.
Help!!!
If you look in the rain channel in your V70 you will see a couple of metal clips.
These are to secure the load bars. I have a set for my C70 they work great.
Otherwise you can install the traditional Volvo Roof Rack and the cross bars.
The load bars are cheaper and can be removed when not in use.
For the US the only options are off or on.
Either you shut the DRL system down, which is against Canadian law I believe, or you leave it alone.
But I wonder if this is actually deliberately done by Volvo for safety reasons. For FWD car, or a FWD-biased car such as the Volvo AWD models, if you're coasting downhill on a slippery surface, engine-braking may cause the front wheels to lose traction which would be disastrous if you're going around a curve. But this would not happen if the transmission completely disengages.
On a 98 Cross Country there is a small screw on the light switch panel.Turn it and the drl's turn off.
On the current Volvo's a software download has to be performed.
In Canada I thought the law mandated drl's to be on always.
Mine are off btw on my C70.
As far as reliability, no major problems at all. The only exception doesn't really have anything to do with the car itself, but rather the tires. The 17" "upgraded" Pirelli tires are complete junk. I had 3 of them develop sidewall bulges from hitting ordinary potholes, and in one instance the wheel itself cracked... very expensive. I replaced them with BF Goodrich GForce tires... I have not had a single problem since, and the Goodriches are better performing.
Aside from the tires, the only other problem was a broken mechanical cupholder that slides out from the dash (it wouldn't "squeeze" the drink)... fixed under warranty.
As already mentioned, yes you must use Premium fuel in the T5, but I think Premium is also required for the 2.4T.
Interior capacity is almost identical to the Saab 9-5 wagon (37.5 vs. 37 cu.ft. luggage; 72 vs. 73 cu.ft. total cargo (seats down)).
Should I take my chances and forget an extension?
Like some opinions please.
Get one with a clutch pedal next time, then. :-)
I can't guess what Volvo's rationale to have all the lights on all the time.
1. Traffic so lousy in Phoenix that you would wear out the throwout bearing unless went to neutral and just completely sat there.
2. Wife does not want a stick shift.
3. Worst problem is bad left hip that cannot handle holding clutch in very long ..
oh well ..But I still contend that at least MY 2003 V70 2.4T is a pitiful joke as far as drive train.
I see you are looking for a V70 going from a 740 .. I went from two 960's to the V70 and have regretted it ever since... Shame on me.
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There isn't any provision for changing the light pattern if you will.
Also, being a Canadian spec car, the program might not work. The onboard computer could refuse it.
As I mentioned a few days ago, this lack of engine braking contributes to the front brake pad wear and brake dust problems mentioned since the '01 V70's came out. In fact, the dust build-up was mentioned as one of the concerns in a major magazine review of the V70 when it was introduced. This is a huge concern in Europe, the land of the tail-gaters and Germany's unlimited speed limits.
Does anyone have infants riding in their V70s? I have a new (two week old) concern. When reading the rear facing car seat instructions, it said not to install the seat in the middle of the rear seat where there is a fold down arm rest. The reason is obvious in a crash sequence. The volvo manual does not address it at all, but only talks about the built in booster cushions.
My question: Why would the most safety conscious car manufacturer in the world not have a latch or release pull for that arm rest so infants could ride in the safest possible spot in a vehicle? I now have to put the baby in one of the outboard seats where he is more vulnerable in an accident.
Anyone have the same concern?
Thanks!
Have not even thought about taking the rear arm rest out of the $1300 leather interior. Not sure why I should have to. If I could, and I may try, this would help many with the issue I have. I don't want to, but it might be the best thing for my child's safety. Why should I have to is another story. Again I must ask, why would Volvo design that seat without a latched pull or some devise so the arm rest would not come down on my child in a crash and harm him?
Your second 906 question: I do have the T5 with the Geartronic that 'freewheels'. That is such a bad way of describing what actually happens with the XMSN but if that's what people want to use for a XMSN that lets the car coast forever, that's fine. It saves fuel and that is very important here in Europe when gas is more than $4/gallon.
Most of the Europeans drive stick shifts and diesels to save gas. Their diesels cannot even be had in the states because we use a lesser grade fuel than they do. But, a TDI Audi or a CDI Mercedes will last a whole lot longer than our engines and blow many of our cars away. Their Diesel technology is great compared to ours. When you think back to the diesel craze of the early 80's in the states and the noisy stinky problems they had, our consumers are turned off to them.
Not saying Diesel is the way to go for the US, but it is in Europe.
Our Volvo does what we need it to so far, with very few problems. It is a blast to drive on the Autobahn but a 5 or 6 speed would be even more fun. Driving a wagon at 125 or 130 MPH is amazing, but these do it with grace.
Also, when going down a long hill, have you tried putting the Geartronic in manual mode? I don't know if it'd work; I'm just wondering aloud if putting it in, say, 4th manually would hold it in that gear. Worth a shot, anyway.
I know diesels have come a long way; I've been eyeing a Golf TDi as a possible replacement for my wife's car ('94 Accord,) as she's got a longish commute. The thing that gives me pause, though, is the extreme cold temperatures we get in the winter here in Iowa and their gelling effect on diesel fuel. I know that the US is supposed to start refining "European grade" (for lack of a better word) diesel in the next several years. We'll see what technological refinements vis a vis cold weather performance that brings.
We test drove an '04 XC70 with pretty much the standard options (Premium, Booster Seats (which are really cool - and fit our needs well) and a handful of other items that make this car sticker around $39,400. My wife is really eager to move forward on this car once we get our settlement payment from Audi.
What are others paying for the new 2004 XC70? I heard about the $2K rebate. I realize that this is a dumb question, but I assume that should be incremental to any and all other discounts I can negotiate, right? It seems that there are a lot of deals going on with Volvos right now. What should I expect to pay?
Thanks a lot for your feedback! Keith
I re registered as my paswword was at work. I would be very interested in hearing your Lemon story. I drove both the XC70 and a '03 A6 Avant quattro this past Friday afternoon. I am definately leaning towards the Volvo but the Audi seems to have the edge for appearances/design/sportiness. The V6 engine is definately smoother at low revs (no smoother than my Odyssey's V6 however)than the XC70 but merging onto freeway and zipping along at 80-90 there's not much of a difference. I was struck by he A6's interior. I can only describe it as the opposite of heavy. There is something about the tops of the door panels which seems so unobtrusive. However, a few things that bothered me: The drivers seat was not particularly comfortable, the throttle was hard to control smoothly at low speeds, the console was way too busy, the price was still around 40 grand before tax etc. The Volvos that are currently available in my area come with premium and touring pkgs, child booster and xenia spoke wheels. Depending on metallic paint (extra $450) or not (white and black), the MSRP is approx $39K and the dealer wants $35K. They have a bunch of them on the lot. The above price includes the $2000 rebate to dealer. As the invoice (according to Edmunds) is about $36, I guess the dealer is making about $1000? Perhaps htere is other cash to dealer stuff going on behind the scenes? One thing I am not not crazy about the XC is the color combo's. The plastic cladding is either brown or blue. The blue looks looks really odd with the silver, which is normally a color I like. The green looks nice with the brown cladding. The rest of the colors don't look like they belong on a $40K car,perhaps this is why they have a bunch of cars on their hands? I'm located in Fairfield County, CT and I'm looking to buy in the next several weeks. Let me know what your Volvo dealer experiences have been and , of course, anything you might have to say that looking at the A^ is a waste of time.
I suspect this is simply an example of lawyers covering their clients rear end.
If anything, I would guess the risk of being injured by a falling arm rest is insignificant compared to the risk of being injured by unsecured cargo flying around the cabin after impact.
Anyone seen any, or know of a dealer who has any?
the deals should be outstanding on these right now. Go check out Edmunds TMV on them...well below MSRP.
I got the 2003 A6 Quattro 3.0 the first of March. There were some great lease deals going on and frankly I couldn't find a $42K car that I liked as much that could also be had for $400/month. I like the color and features and it seemed like an easy decision. I completed the deal in less than 30 minutes.
From the start, the car had a vibration that would appear between 40 and 75 mph. It is slight, but definitely noticeable. I took the car repeatedly to my local dealer, who I will say treated me EXTREMELY well. I have nothing but positive things to say about them. I always had a similar new loaner and they treated me respectfully.
Anyway, they kept trying new/different things including: 2 new sets of tires, 1 new set of rims (upgraded 17" wheel package), new drive shaft, new transmission ($14K itself!!!), new front differential and most recently a new rear differential was ordered. In total, there is well in excess of $20K in repairs done to my car in its 6 months and over 7 weeks in the shop.
Given the amount of time I now qualify for the Lemon Law. So far Audi has been VERY easy to deal with. I do have a problem with their most recent settlement statement in that it clearly leaves out one resolution that I understand I am entitled to under Ohio law (full refund of ALL monies paid from day 1.) They are willing to upgrade me to a 2004 A6 2.7T (twin turbo) at no cost to me (about a $5K upgrade, plus one model year newer.)
So now I am waiting to get my final resolution with them. Seriously, in spite of all this, I am still very keen on Audis and I am convinced my car is just a bad one that got through. I am not at all mad at Audi as they have treated me well thus far and have made every effort to ensure I am happy. I would buy another again tomorrow.
The reason I am looking at the XC70 is that my wife is a "take the money and run" person and she really wants to simply cash out the lease and go buy (versus lease) something else. She drove the XC70 over the weekend and really likes it. So I am weighing out that option.
I have not yet talked any pricing with the Volvo dealer, but based on what I am reading, approx $35K range sounds reasonable with the current $2K rebate. Sounds like you are seeing the same thing.
Personally I like the Audi's looks and handling, but I don't think I can touch it at the price of the Volvo if I am going to get out of the lease and do a purchase. I really do like the Audi and the Quattro system is excellent. The Volvo has price on its side and the wagon configuration, along with the built-in booster seats (which I need) are a real plus in its favor.
Decisions, decisions....
Things get a little confused with the lighting knob, which has the typical "off", "parking", and "on" positions. If the knob is in "off", then the DRLs and HIDs come on automatically as described above, but you cannot use the high beams. If the knob is on, the HIDs are on whenever the car is and you can use the high beams. To get from "off" to "on" at night to use the high beams, you must go through "parking". This move turns the headlights off for a second and then re-ignites them. This is rather annoying, especially if you're already driving, and given what it takes to ignite a HID bulb I imagine it's unnecessarily hard on the electronics.
In hi beam mode the xenon reflector tilts up to cast the light farther ahead.
The small round lights next to the xenon reflector are the DRL lights.
With the headlight switch in the OFF position the DRLs are on and the Xenons are turned on in low light situations.
With the switch in the ON position the DRLs are off and the Xenons are on always
Thanks for the help...